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What im saying is its simple enough you really should check it out yourself, its super easy This should have some answers for you, 3rd post down i think looked pretty knowledgable violentlycitrus fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 19:27
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Knifegrab posted:My 2014 Honda fit has poo poo A/C. It just doesn't work or barely works, I can't even tell, but on a hot day its useless. I am not handy, I don't think I could fix it. I just want to know, if I roll this into a shop, how much should I expect to pay to fix my A/C? Hello friend. Please try posting here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3822245
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Aug 30, 2017 19:30
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Has anyone heard from kev (barlas) in the last six months? I'm getting worried...
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Aug 30, 2017 19:40
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violentlycitrus posted:You can get a guage and a can of freon for 30 bucks and if that fixes it, awesome, good to go. If it's not that, its going to be really expensive no matter what I imagine. violentlycitrus posted:What im saying is its simple enough you really should check it out yourself, its super easy I am really not handy, like at all, and after reading htat I would still have no loving clue what I am doing.
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Aug 30, 2017 19:47
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Dane posted:Has anyone heard from kev (barlas) in the last six months? I'm getting worried... https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3832120
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Aug 30, 2017 19:48
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Knifegrab posted:I am really not handy, like at all, and after reading htat I would still have no loving clue what I am doing. Then it's either $100 or less for a freon recharge, or like $600 for a new compressor.
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Aug 30, 2017 19:51
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Thanks! Awesome.
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Aug 30, 2017 20:30
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Kinda sounds like you answered your own question. R2 the secondary cat and go from there. Getting into the lambda values and fuel trim, to me, is way too down in the weeds at this point if there's a clear physical blockage. Yeah, I don't have the ability to reflash/reburn/program the ECM. I was only meaning to monitor it, not tune it. Secondary cat by design is quite a ways downstream. Poorly designed system that doesn't quite allow the secondary cat to "light off" or "fire off" properly. It basically just got plugged up during 105000 miles of cold starts and not enough cycling to high temp to burn off the remaining hydrocarbons. Solution? Blockage removed. There is now an offload intermediate pipe/secondary cat pipe on there which means the car can never legally be used upon the highway ever ever again nope. Now it will have to be retired to my grandmothers farm and haul chicken feed to the turkeys. The power is 105% back. Even sounds better. It is my understanding that these car with the secondary cat removed but with a good functioning primary cat will still pass the various emissions tests found in other states. Wyoming has no such tests.
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Aug 30, 2017 20:54
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Thought you'd all get a kick out of this, not sure if the chat thread is still around. Sometimes I read a transportation blog for my city that is very bike-focused. Today they ran an article that advocated banning fast vehicles. http://usa.streetsblog.org/2017/08/30/why-are-carmakers-allowed-to-sell-products-that-go-faster-than-100-mph/
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Aug 30, 2017 22:19
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Michael Scott posted:Thought you'd all get a kick out of this, not sure if the chat thread is still around. 2) What a pathetic bunch of bastards.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:30
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Literally Esoteric posted:Can I get decent money out of it, do I sell to a scrapyard? If I'm asking in the wrong place let me know. Hey, a little late but here's another option. Find out what it's kelly blue book value is, and you can deduct that amount from your taxes by donating the car to a charity. This is only a cash value to you if you are already itemizing your deductions. To figure the cash value, multiply the itemized deduction by your top marginal rate (since it reduces your taxable income by the amount of the deduction). Do the same for your state taxes, if you pay state taxes and if your state allows 100% deduction of charitable donations. This number may work out to being more than the car is worth in scrap, and has the added benefit of helping a charity. Keep in mind many charities won't accept non-running cars, but it sounds like your Prius (sort of) runs.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:32
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I've got vinyl flooring to install in my 1972 International Pickup. The old flooring just died into the corner, but I would really like to have some kind of trim piece to finish this out, and keep dirt from getting under the floor. I'm having trouble finding a generic inside corner pvc or shiny metal that can do this. Ideally the part is an inside corner that I can put screws in the side panel metal to secure it. Something like 1/2" x 1, or even 1" x 1" would be fine too. Any ideas how to find this? I've been through auto trim catalogs and hardware store catalogs so far. I may end up just buying some stainless steel in a light gage and brake it myself.
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Aug 31, 2017 03:40
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Literally Esoteric posted:Stupid Question: What's the best way to sell a junk car that's still got lots of good parts? Little late as well but depending on where you are I have an 05 Prius with a completely trashed interior/exterior as the last owner used it to haul farm supplies. It otherwise works so if you're close I may be interested in making one OK Prius out of the two. I live in GA.
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Aug 31, 2017 12:43
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So I came home after being on a business trip for 3 weeks and suddenly my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (with an inline 6!) won't start. It turns over fine, but struggles to start, or starts and is clearly missing/idling really rough. I can smell gas, and the Check Gauges light is on, with the Battery Gauge at 9, and the odometer/electrical items are flickering like hell. I've tested the battery and the alternator which are running at 12v and 13.8v respectively. Is this a "tow er' to the garage" scenario or are there any quick fixes I can dig into? I'm thinking of checking the spark plugs and also scrubbing the battery terminals as some places suggested that.
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Aug 31, 2017 15:08
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Grounds
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Aug 31, 2017 15:51
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violentlycitrus posted:Grounds Winner! e: Not winner. Though the ground was hosed, I swapped it out and still have the same problem. Checked further grounds and found nothing. CADPAT fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Aug 31, 2017 |
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Aug 31, 2017 17:37
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Anybody know of any decent aftermarket lug nuts that won't break the bank? I had on some decent wheel locks, but a few brutally salty Buffalo winters hosed those (and my wheel studs T_T) up pretty good, but my wheels definitely aren't pretty any more anyway, so I'm thinking about switching back to regular nuts. I'm looking for a 2005 Civic to be exact, but even just some nods to reputable brands./resources would be great. The official stock ones are going for around $7-9+ apiece online (official MSRP $9.57 apiece), but $100+ to redo the whole car seems a little steep. On the other hand, I want these to last a few more years until I'm ready to upgrade to a new vehicle. Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Aug 31, 2017 |
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Aug 31, 2017 18:51
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Teketeketeketeke posted:Anybody know of any decent aftermarket lug nuts that won't break the bank? From like 2 minutes of looking around (not sure exactly what configuration you want them to be in), I'd go with the Dorman 611-182 Looks like rockauto.com has them for $1.09/ea http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2005,civic,1.7l+l4,1430771,wheel,lug+nut,7676 Amazon has them for $21.58/10 https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-611-182-Wheel-Lug-Pack/dp/B0031GOYVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504225248&sr=8-1&keywords=DORMAN+611182
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Sep 1, 2017 01:23
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So i currently have a very cool obd bluetooth thing and the torque app. Is there any advantage to going with a more spendy code reader? I'm not interested in abs or airbag diag stuff, just reading codes and checking out sensor and fuel economy info.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:24
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The sensor data is invaluable. You'll go a year without touching it and then diagnose and fix your car using it exclusively, saving tons of time and money.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:27
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violentlycitrus posted:So i currently have a very cool obd bluetooth thing and the torque app. Is there any advantage to going with a more spendy code reader? I'm not interested in abs or airbag diag stuff, just reading codes and checking out sensor and fuel economy info. I haven't found any reason to go beyond your setup unless the car uses some proprietary canbus measuring block bullshit, in which case you'd need VAGCOM (vw/audi/lambo/bently/skoda maybe?), VIDA/DICE (volvo), Carly or similar (BMW), etc..
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Sep 1, 2017 02:28
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Knifegrab posted:My 2014 Honda fit has poo poo A/C. It just doesn't work or barely works, I can't even tell, but on a hot day its useless. I am not handy, I don't think I could fix it. I just want to know, if I roll this into a shop, how much should I expect to pay to fix my A/C? Did my sister's '06 CR-V. Compressor was hosed. Got away with replacing the compressor & receiver/drier myself, & evac/recharging it with 'loan' gauges & vacuum from AutoZone. $450.00. My own labor, took 7-hours. Probably would run $1200-$1500 at a shop. If the compressor had grenaded the system with aluminum shards (as they are wont to do) it would've been ~$2500 for a shop to do, because I am a 54-YO fatbody with questionable back issues & am not going through the space-shuttle instruction list to replace the in-cabin evaporator unit behind the dash, and you would have needed that, along with a new condensor, & probably hard & soft lines as well as the other stuff above.
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Sep 1, 2017 03:00
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The only real difference is a dedicated reader or laptop will take more samples and there is a little more lag on a phone. If you arent tuning it though that doesn't matter at all.
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Sep 1, 2017 03:07
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poo poo that reminds me im doing all the engine bay portion on my ac upgrading to a sanden. It comes pre lubed, so do i take it to get flushed just firewall back or do i hook up the whole system and then flush? The old is probably seized engaging the clutch would instantly smoke it and kill the car. Its one of those huge 55lb monstrosities so im not really sure if it puked into the lines or not or how long ago that happened because i dont trust the seller. If i do have them flush the whole thing do i need them to lube the compressor again? He had disconnected the clutch wire from the pressure switch and gave me the needs charge bullshit. I specifically asked him if the compressor was good and he said it was they just didnt do fluids because classics leak ac its indoors blah blah. I saw the wire hanging so i tapped the wire on there and it let out this knarly shriek and i grinned at him and he turned beet red lol. We made a very good deal so i bought it anyways. The place was pretty packed and they had 2 cars i was ready to buy so he was getting bent over one way or the other after pulling that poo poo lol. I didn't even have to say anything though and he loaded me up with all kinds of shwag too lol.
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Sep 1, 2017 03:58
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Flush everything except your new compressor and receiver/dryer.
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Sep 1, 2017 04:08
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Yeah, flush the rest of the system before you even connect the lines to the new compressor.
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Sep 1, 2017 04:20
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Thanks. Is there any thing i should do to check the evaporator? It was holding pressure before i ripped the rest out but its 45 years old at this point so is there like a flow test? The there was fluid or oil in the firewall connectors that looked dirty. Not much but unless it came from the o rings it was, uh not what i was expecting. There wasnt any metal. They were the original lines. Also its and oem underdash so would the evaporator even bea pain to just swap? I might just do that if its not to bad its a 72 dart.
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Sep 1, 2017 04:40
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Leperflesh posted:Hey, a little late but here's another option. Find out what it's kelly blue book value is, and you can deduct that amount from your taxes by donating the car to a charity. Autoexec.bat posted:Little late as well but depending on where you are I have an 05 Prius with a completely trashed interior/exterior as the last owner used it to haul farm supplies. It otherwise works so if you're close I may be interested in making one OK Prius out of the two. I live in GA. Right now looking like it just goes to carmax.
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Sep 1, 2017 07:49
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DogonCrook posted:Thanks. Is there any thing i should do to check the evaporator? It was holding pressure before i ripped the rest out but its 45 years old at this point so is there like a flow test? The there was fluid or oil in the firewall connectors that looked dirty. Not much but unless it came from the o rings it was, uh not what i was expecting. There wasnt any metal. They were the original lines. Also its and oem underdash so would the evaporator even bea pain to just swap? I might just do that if its not to bad its a 72 dart. When I was young & dumb, and R-13 was cheap & over-the-counter, I just swapped out the V-2 compressor, threw in a a few cans, & was on my way. Did it three times between 1979 & 1984 & none of them blew up. This one has a Sanden rotary? I'm not sure if the original V2/Techumsehs were less inclined to vomit shavings since they're piston-driven, or if I was just lucky. You could try pulling the heads off the compressor & see what's going on in there first. If you want to gamble the cost of a compressor, go ahead & replace it, it might be fine...just don't be surprised if it seizes up. At which point, you do the whole enchilada. otherwise, replace it if there's a chance (or sign) of metal shavings, because if you don't everything else might get blown away along with your new compressor & then you wind up paying for the parts/doing the job twice. If you are small & flexible enough, it's a lot of disconnecting poo poo under & behind the dash; you'll need to remove the ashtray, radio, & possibly some climate control actuators rods & at least get them out of the way. There should be plenty of maneuvering room. Since I didn't work on a factory A/C model, I'm not sure if you have to remove the A/C ducting, which is slung under the dash. I was going to remove the bench seat & get comfy. There are videos for it. Just take your time. edit2: OK you're replacing the V2 with a Sanden? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Sep 1, 2017 |
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Sep 1, 2017 13:39
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A friend of mine just bought a car for their teenage daughter - 2003 Mazda 323 Astina. Yes, I'm old. It has this:  And it is now my responsibility as good Uncle Memento to make it have an aux in. Anyone have any experience with making those double-DIN Mazda head units play nicely with a 3.5mm cable? I've seen adapter kits around but I have no idea what sort of quality they are. I've got a decent head unit in the garage with an aux in that I could easily throw in there if it comes to that, but it's single-DIN and I'd need a blanking plate of some sort. I'd like to get this sorted out this weekend without having to resort to ebay, but I will if needed and in the meantime introduce the driver to these things called "CDs". Memento fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Sep 1, 2017 |
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Sep 1, 2017 14:10
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Memento posted:A friend of mine just bought a car for their teenage daughter - 2003 Mazda 323 Astina. I've used these kind of units in the past with great success: (not on a Mazda though...) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-MP3-USB-Interface-Adapter-AUX-In-Input-For-Mazda-5-323-Miata-MX5-MPV-RX8-/261864214225 I like to retain factory look as much as possible in my cars, and for the inexpensive route, the "fake the headunit into thinking a CD changer is connected" aux cord things are great. For like 3x as much you can throw the bluetooth unit in there. http://www.gtacarkits.com/product/mazda-tribute-2002-2006-iphone-aux-kit/ edit: prob not faking a cd changer, as much as a MD/Tape after looking at your headunit again.
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Sep 1, 2017 14:20
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Memento posted:A friend of mine just bought a car for their teenage daughter - 2003 Mazda 323 Astina. They vary in quality, as you suspect. I've had the Honda kits go right in; I changed out a double-DIN on '01 Chrysler & the fit was horrendous; I was able to make it work with a lot of modification on the bench. You could pull the factory radio & probably cut up the chassis enough to mount your other unit but that does leave you without a blanking plate. You'll also have the issue of wiring it up. I know you hate to make her wait, but it would be better & easier all around to get a mounting kit including a wiring harness adapter that'll go from that Mazda to your head unit. https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-7505-Installation-Multi-Kit-1995-2006/dp/B000COT2CQ
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Sep 1, 2017 14:21
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You should be able to use the MD/Tape source pretty easily to use as an aux hookup.
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Sep 1, 2017 14:42
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure there's a well documented DIY aux in for those Mazda head units. It repurposes one of the other inputs and should sound as good as anything else. Of course I'd be thoroughly tempted to just swap the head unit and be done with it. Edit: http://nikosapi.org/w/index.php/MazdaSpoof_-_A_Tape_Deck_Emulator
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Sep 1, 2017 14:55
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:You should be able to use the MD/Tape source pretty easily to use as an aux hookup. http://www.sylfex.com/products/AuxMod/
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Sep 1, 2017 16:06
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http://www.whatsmyip.org/lib/rx8-aux-ipod-input/ Heres another way to do it. Solder an audio cable to the audio pickups of the cd player. The downside is you have to burn a special blank cd with tracks that output no audio. It works really well and the sound is good but once an hour or so the track cganges and audio cuts for a second and cd skips cut the audio but its also a 5 min job once the radio is out so it is kinda the quick and dirty way. I wouldnt do this for her car cause its kinda ghetto but i think it works on any car so i figured id share for anybody that wants audio in a beater or doesnt mind the drawbacks because effort lol.
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Sep 1, 2017 18:20
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PainterofCrap posted:When I was young & dumb, and R-13 was cheap & over-the-counter, I just swapped out the V-2 compressor, threw in a a few cans, & was on my way. Did it three times between 1979 & 1984 & none of them blew up. This one has a Sanden rotary? I'm not sure if the original V2/Techumsehs were less inclined to vomit shavings since they're piston-driven, or if I was just lucky. Yeah its a v2. I got a classic air engine bay kit for it. That sounds right about the underdash ill poke around this weekend and see how bad the evap job would be and check the heads of that compressor. Good idea about removing the bench. I was mostly worried the dash has to come out becuase I'd have to remove the window and all that business. And yeah lol i hadnt detected any metal so i was just gonna kinda gamble. It looked like a piston engine i didnt consider it could puke its guts and i think it probably cant but im curious and i probably should to be sure i guess.
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Sep 1, 2017 18:44
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I have a 2016 Miata and my mechanic discovered that one of my wheels is slightly bent at the inner lip. I had no clue since there was no unusual vibration (or maybe I can't tell since NVH is already not good with this car) even with it fitted on the steering axle, and it still holds air fine. I know that it is definitely bent since he spun it on the balancing machine for me to see. The wheel has since been relocated to the drive axle. My question: what's the risk of damage to the car if I just ignore it? I've read a little about possible damage to the wheel hub but since I can't feel any vibration, I'm wondering if it will be fine. I don't care that much about a little extra tire wear either.
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Sep 1, 2017 20:37
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You have a '16 Miata, why not just pay for a new or repaired wheel? I understand if it was a beater but it's not.
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Sep 1, 2017 20:56
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Wheel repair can be pretty cheap too if theres a good shop in your area. If there arent any fractures its like 30-40 dollars to straighten a wheel.
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Sep 1, 2017 21:09
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