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I use a little bar fridge
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Dec 9, 2014 03:35
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Spedman posted:I have my little bar fridge for my film and keeping mixed C41/E6 chems cold, and a strong willed fiancee who won't let me store film stuff in the food fridge (a blessing in disguise). Ask me about the one time I used X-Tol to make a tea. It tasted atrocious. So -- I made another cup to make sure I wasn't going loopy.
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Dec 9, 2014 04:36
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Alright, I'll ask: What? Did you seriously make TWO cups of developer tea?
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Dec 9, 2014 04:42
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ExecuDork posted:Alright, I'll ask: What? Did you seriously make TWO cups of developer tea? I made one of those hot water pots full of hot developer water. Luckily it was a 1:9 dilution or so - I think -- I hope. It was Kodak's X-Tol, so luckily relatively harmless according to their MDS - anyway ... After drinking the first cup partially, and deciding, yuck this tea tastes real bad - I poured it out, washed the cup and -- made myself another cup. To my great astonishment it also tasted like crap. (A kind of sour acidic artificial taste, with a note of soil and lemons gone bad.) I probably was not at full mental capacity that day. I guess this is why you shouldn't store your (used) developer in unlabelled PET bottles in the fridge. In my defense: normally I use filtered tap water, but as coincidence had it, the water supply had been cut for that week due to maintenance. Thus I opted for developer tea; oh well.
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Dec 9, 2014 06:27
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My wife is complaining about film in the fridge lately and I hardly have anything in there - one big tupperware container and a ziplock bag. Oh and another big ziplock bag in the freezer.
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Dec 9, 2014 08:27
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You drank it?!? How colour me horrified/impressed. Well, here's a photo of my little film fridge:  Theres a can of 35mm Ektachrome ISO12 replicating film that I haven't shot yet, tungsten balanced I think, along with a pro-box of Ektachrome 120 as well. A bunch of Instax should be here tomorrow too.
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Dec 9, 2014 08:28
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Now if you're developing film inside your body you could do C41 too because the temperature would be perfect unpacked robinhood fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Dec 9, 2014 |
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Dec 9, 2014 11:29
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unpacked robinhood posted:Now if you're developing film inside your body you could do C41 too because the temperature would be perfect like butt chugging except for art
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Dec 9, 2014 11:56
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keg stand development
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Dec 9, 2014 12:19
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Current stash, depleted by half because of a long vacation.
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Dec 9, 2014 13:04
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I just contacted filmphotographyproject.com and asked why I was quoted $10.95 to ship two boxes of Porta 400 120, yet I got quoted $17 to ship two boxes of Tri-X 400. They wrote back and said that it looks like all of their film stock had been weighed incorrectly, so they are now in the process of reweighing everything. Hopefully that means cheaper shipping and not the opposite. 
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Dec 9, 2014 18:55
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I'm having kind of a strange problem. When I develop medium format I have absolutely ZERO water spots. When I develop 35mm they are everywhere. Any ideas?
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Dec 10, 2014 06:50
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Hang your negs with a small weight at the bottom and use photoflo in your final rinse with distilled water
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Dec 10, 2014 06:52
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BANME.sh posted:Hang your negs with a small weight at the bottom and use photoflo in your final rinse with distilled water hmmm, yeah it's possible I'm not weighing them down enough for them to drip off. the medium format hangs pretty flat. I basically have a completely ruined roll and it's a bummer.
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Dec 10, 2014 06:54
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I use a size C battery taped to a clip. Having a toddler means a lot of dead C batteries laying around.
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Dec 10, 2014 07:03
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Pukestain Pal posted:I basically have a completely ruined roll and it's a bummer. If its just water spots, you can rewash it.
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Dec 10, 2014 07:18
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Taken last summer in Osaka with my canon slr and some fuji superia film. Tenjin Matsuri by Nestor's Blurrylife, on Flickr Tenjin Matsuri by Nestor's Blurrylife, on Flickr Tenjin Matsuri by Nestor's Blurrylife, on Flickr
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Dec 10, 2014 07:39
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I pushed some HP5+ to 3200  
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Dec 10, 2014 08:23
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Pukestain Pal posted:hmmm, yeah it's possible I'm not weighing them down enough for them to drip off. the medium format hangs pretty flat. You can wash film. After it's been fixed, film isn't going to be hurt by a bath in nice clean water and another chance at drying.
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Dec 10, 2014 16:41
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ExecuDork posted:You can wash film. After it's been fixed, film isn't going to be hurt by a bath in nice clean water and another chance at drying. cool thanks. wasn't sure if it would hurt the emulsion at all. some googling suggested that it might. I'm not as bummed now.
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Dec 10, 2014 16:43
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Pukestain Pal posted:cool thanks. wasn't sure if it would hurt the emulsion at all. some googling suggested that it might. Its a bit of a pain but I use distilled water for last rinses when I develop film, have never had an issue with spots doing that.
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Dec 10, 2014 23:25
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Its a bit of a pain but I use distilled water for last rinses when I develop film, have never had an issue with spots doing that. so basically you are doing a the normal final rinse then dunking it in distilled water?
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Dec 11, 2014 00:11
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Pukestain Pal posted:so basically you are doing a the normal final rinse then dunking it in distilled water? No just using distilled water in the final rinse instead of tap
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Dec 11, 2014 00:13
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Pukestain Pal posted:so basically you are doing a the normal final rinse then dunking it in distilled water? rinse your film, empty your tank, put some distilled water in, a drop of photo flo, swish your film around, dry
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Dec 11, 2014 00:26
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Miike posted:Taken last summer in Osaka with my canon slr and some fuji superia film. really like this one although I can't explain why I'm gonna try and DSLR-scan some of my NYC pictures tonight, I think I may have over developed them.
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Dec 11, 2014 00:39
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Pukestain Pal posted:so basically you are doing a the normal final rinse then dunking it in distilled water? If you're doing the Ilford rinse, you can just use distilled on the last set of agitations.
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Dec 11, 2014 19:44
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Portra is freaking awesome, Photo isn't particularly amazing but i'm really happy I finally have photos of my fathers parents. Tim-6x7-047.jpg by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr
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Dec 12, 2014 04:45
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Hi, team. I've decided to step up my landscape game a bit, since I realized that after a year of shooting, I have one picture with a person in it, and only because they wouldn't get out of the loving frame. To that end, my Christmas present to myself is a Sekor C 50mm for my RB67, since I've been having a lot of fun with my 28mm SMC Takumar on my Spotmatic. So, I have what may be a super newbie-ish question, but I want to buy some filters. I decided I want to go with a LEE Filter Holder System and just use step rings to adapt that to all of my other cameras, since apparently it won't vignette on my wide lenses. What I'm having trouble with is ND filters. I want some pretty hardcore light stoppage because I like to play with motion in my landscapes, but everybody warns of colour casts when using something like a Big Stopper or other 10-ish stop ND filter. Some people tell me that I can use almost any ND filter on film because film isn't sensitive to infrared, so I don't have to worry about colour casts. Obviously this is true of black and white film, but can I also shoot colour negative and slide film with no cast?
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Dec 12, 2014 10:21
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I am looking to start developing primarily 120 film and some 35. I will mainly be doing c41 and might do some black and white. Is there a standard kit or recommended one? Would I need separate tanks for color and black and white? I remember one type of roller being a pain for loading 120.
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Dec 12, 2014 17:10
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You can use the same tanks, just obviously rinse them well after each use. I think mostly everyone likes the Paterson Super System 4 tank. They come in different sizes depending on how many rolls you want to develop. I've had trouble loading both 35 and 120 onto the Paterson reels but it just takes practice and I rarely screw up anymore. I find 36 exposure rolls like to get jammed up more often than 24.
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Dec 12, 2014 17:17
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BANME.sh posted:You can use the same tanks, just obviously rinse them well after each use. I think mostly everyone likes the Paterson Super System 4 tank. They come in different sizes depending on how many rolls you want to develop. I've had trouble loading both 35 and 120 onto the Paterson reels but it just takes practice and I rarely screw up anymore. I find 36 exposure rolls like to get jammed up more often than 24. I have more trouble getting the 35mm into the paterson reel now. The 120 isn't a problem for me anymore. Just took 3 or 4 rolls.
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Dec 12, 2014 17:23
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I just realized I've been using a 1% dilution of Arista Hypo Clear in all of my development instead of the 10% solution recommended on the bottle. If I really have to start doing 10% dilutions, then the bottle won't last really long (only enough for about 11 batches at 300ml each). I always use it as a one-shot dilution. I know Hypo Clear is supposed to be reusable, but I don't develop frequently enough to exhaust my Hypo dilution before I goes bad. I'm wondering if using weaker solutions would let me keep using it as a one-shot thing. The color indicator (the one that shows the Hypo Clear is exhausted) usually hasn't activated by the time I'm done washing, so I think I must be getting most of the fix off. Is residual fix going to eat away at my film forever, or is the bottle just recommending that I use more than I need?
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Dec 12, 2014 17:26
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mulls posted:Is residual fix going to eat away at my film forever Doubtful. You don't even need Hypo Clear unless you're using a hardening fix (which you're probably not in TYOOL 2014). Even then, you can wash hardened fix out sufficiently with a really long, super wasteful wash. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 12, 2014 18:30
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Thinking about picking up a new b&w developer, any recommendations? Maybe Rodinal? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/12054-Adox-Rodinal-Film-Developer-500ml I've been using Fomadon LQN... I'm not thrilled with how my negatives are coming out so I want to get a more well-known developer, that way I'll know it's just my lovely shooting/developing and can't blame it on some random chemical.
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Dec 12, 2014 18:55
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Rodinal is probably not a wrong choice. It's not a fine grain developer, so expect to get coarser, more pronounced grain with it. Also make sure to get a (needle-less) graduated syringe for it. Since you'll be mixing it in 1:25, 1:50 and 1:100 ratios you need to measure the concentrate precisely. Also, if you like slower films and super fine grain (rated ISO 160 and down) try Ilford Perceptol, or if you like faster films and pushing them, try Ilford Microphen.
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Dec 12, 2014 19:35
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nielsm posted:Rodinal is probably not a wrong choice. It's not a fine grain developer, so expect to get coarser, more pronounced grain with it. Plus Rodinal will let you do stand dev, which is probably a good thing to have in your toolkit.
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Dec 13, 2014 03:22
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voodoorootbeer posted:Plus Rodinal will let you do stand dev, which is probably a good thing to have in your toolkit. That's something I've been meaning to try anyway, so I ordered 500mL of Rodinal and some more film to make the shipping cost worth it.
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Dec 13, 2014 03:25
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Not sure where else to put this besides here because it kinda involves film cameras. I built a really lovely looking shutter speed tester tonight (basically copied this guy's circuit diagram, minus the LED) for under $10, but it works perfectly. I have the output going into my PC's mic jack so I can record the signal as audio and measure its duration. I've always wanted to build one of these. I'll probably re-assemble it onto an actual proto board some time in the future, and maybe get a little plastic box to put it in.  Anyway, my AE-1's shutter speeds are pretty well bang on (maybe 5% off). Shutter speeds faster than 1/250 get a bit harder to read on a curtain shutter. My antique Agfa 6x9 folding camera has 3 shutter speeds, 1/25, 1/50, and 1/100. They are all 10-15% off, which isn't that bad considering its age. I wonder if they were even very accurate to begin with. BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Dec 13, 2014 |
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Dec 13, 2014 07:57
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I think i built that same exact thing a few years ago (same website, same skipping the led). So nice and simple.
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Dec 13, 2014 08:14
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How does that work for a curtain shutter above Xsync? I would think the diode would get exposed to light for longer than the actual SS you're testing while it travels past the light. Or does it show up in clear enough blips to measure as it rolls past?
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Dec 13, 2014 17:04
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