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So, I set up my first batch Sunday night (Northern Brewer American Ale), sealed it in the bucket and popped in an airlock. Since then, it hasn't started bubbling, which I have read isn't necessarily a bad thing. Popped it open to see what was up and what I believe is called a krausen, but it didn't seem terribly thick. Did I mess up somewhere along the line, or do I just give it some more time?
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Jul 3, 2013 20:53
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| # ? May 23, 2024 21:56 |
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More time.
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Jul 3, 2013 21:25
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Man, WLP007 dry English ale doesn't gently caress around. It took my barleywine from 1.105 all the way down to 1.012 making it over 12% abv. I'll probably have to age this one for months before it's drinkable.
internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 01:07
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Just did my first all grain batch in a while...man, it just makes me want to stick with extract haha. (Smallish apt in the city, partial vol boil, uuugh) But that said saison with 100% Belgian Munich + Dark Brown Sugar is sitting in the low 70s with 3711. Also just based off the smell Sorachi Ace might be my new favorite saison hop. Gotta test it out some more...
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Jul 4, 2013 01:44
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Finally stopped being lazy and got some campden/ksorbate/wine acids and back sweetened all of the small batch meads I've had aging since last year. Man they taste amazing now. Still a little hot, but I'm assuming that'll clear out fast once the new honey ages in a bit. Exciting! Waiting on a Cascade smash to carb up so I can see if I was successful on my quest for more hop aroma. I did a 5gal 1.054 batch with 2oz Cascade (90min) 2oz Cascade (20min) 4oz Cascade (0min) 4oz Cascade (7 day Dryhop) If that doesn't get me some big aroma does anyone have a suggestion on how to pump out more?
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Jul 4, 2013 02:04
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fullroundaction posted:Waiting on a Cascade smash to carb up so I can see if I was successful on my quest for more hop aroma. I did a 5gal 1.054 batch with When I do pale ales I prefer to get more aroma and flavour rather than bittering so I normally do 45min 30min 10min 0min dry hop
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Jul 4, 2013 02:09
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Tasted my wheat before I racked it onto the raspberries a few days ago, actually pretty tasty! Plain, but tasty. E: Just pulled a sample of the raspberry wheat (because I thought I added too few raspberries, thinking I only added 48oz not 60oz) but man its tasty. If I were to rebrew it I'd probably partial mash with some actual wheat and raise the abv a bit so it has more body, but the gf likes it this light so we'll see. I took a poll for what I should have available for my house warming party and most people said Zombie Dust (sigh). Would a rough approximation (read: good enough for mostly non-beer nerds) be: 6LB Pilsen LME 2LB Wheat DME (because I have tons on hand :P) 10oz Caramel 60 (5.5% approximately) 1oz Citra 40m 1oz Citra 10m 1oz Citra 5m 3oz Citra Dry Hop ChiTownEddie fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 15:15
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Last Sunday I brewed my first batch of beer: a 1 gallon batch of extract hefe. For the first couple of days it was bubbling away and I used a blow-off tube. Yesterday I noticed things had slowed down quite a bit, and I switched the tube for an airlock. Right now I'm pretty much not seeing any yeast activity at all. Am I not supposed to see an actively bubbling airlock? Did too much yeast blow off via the tubing? Am I being paranoid (most likely). I plan on making another 1 gallon batch today (saison). Since I'm not going to use the entire dry yeast packet anyway should I pitch some of the saison yeast in my hefe to bring it back to life?
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Jul 4, 2013 16:09
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bolo yeung posted:Last Sunday I brewed my first batch of beer: a 1 gallon batch of extract hefe. For the first couple of days it was bubbling away and I used a blow-off tube. Yesterday I noticed things had slowed down quite a bit, and I switched the tube for an airlock. Right now I'm pretty much not seeing any yeast activity at all. Am I not supposed to see an actively bubbling airlock? Did too much yeast blow off via the tubing? Am I being paranoid (most likely). That's about the length of the noticeable part of primary fermentation. Things are still going on but not in a way that will really out gas or churn the beer.
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Jul 4, 2013 16:32
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zedprime posted:That's about the length of the noticeable part of primary fermentation. Things are still going on but not in a way that will really out gas or churn the beer. OK, I'll just let it ride then. How much longer should I leave it in primary before bottling? Another week and a half?
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Jul 4, 2013 16:57
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If you can't take gravity readings (buy a hydrometer) I'd say two weeks from the time fermentation starts is the minimum wait for medium gravity beers using first generation yeast. Three weeks to be safe. e: I'm talking about avoiding bottle bombs, not how long you should age the beer for flavor.
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Jul 4, 2013 17:07
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im about to add some gelatin finings to my racked beer. Im going by directions saying 1/2 tsp in cold water until dissolved, then heat it to 160-170 and then pour it in? how much water? how long should i wait before bottling? do i need to shake it around ?
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Jul 4, 2013 19:03
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The beer out post on my keg is leaking  I've used keg lube, tightened the post, and replaced the o-rings on the post and inside the disconnect. Still leaks, although only when the disconnect is actually attached. Poppets are pretty much the only other possibility at this point, right?
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Jul 4, 2013 19:16
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fullroundaction posted:Finally stopped being lazy and got some campden/ksorbate/wine acids and back sweetened all of the small batch meads I've had aging since last year. Man they taste amazing now. Still a little hot, but I'm assuming that'll clear out fast once the new honey ages in a bit. Exciting! At the risk of sounding crass, try some newer more aromatic hops like Citra or Mosaic?
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Jul 4, 2013 19:30
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Angry Grimace posted:At the risk of sounding crass, try some newer more aromatic hops like Citra or Mosaic? That's not crass at all, I was just using Cascade because I had a pound in the freezer and I love doing SMaShs so I can learn about the individual ingredients. I'm not near my books, but is there an objective measure or number that hop aroma is rated by? Of course age/freshness is probably the biggest factor.
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Jul 4, 2013 20:01
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fullroundaction posted:That's not crass at all, I was just using Cascade because I had a pound in the freezer and I love doing SMaShs so I can learn about the individual ingredients. Typically you are looking for hops with high concentrations of Beta oils. Unfortunately, you are rarely going to get an exact number for a given crop of hops, but you can get a general idea for each type. This chart is really helpful for figuring out how different hops compare: http://hopschart.com/zoom.html
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Jul 4, 2013 20:13
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Perfect that's awesome. Fortunately I'm doing a Simcoe smash this weekend with a similar hop schedule so I should be in good shape.
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Jul 4, 2013 20:33
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Jo3sh posted:More time. Will do. Is there a point at which I should worry about lack of activity? I forgot to get a hydrometer reading to start out so I can't really keep tabs on it other than by waiting.
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Jul 4, 2013 22:36
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Brewed three beers today, started bright and early at 9:30am and just finished a bit ago (5:30pm). AHS Belgain quad and coconut porter, and NB's Saison. I forgot I had brewed a hefe last week so I anticipated having enough propane for 3 brews but ran out half way through the last boil and scrambled to get it inside onto the stove to finish up! 85*F out today and humid, way too hot for an 8 hours brewday. But I'm set for a while thankfully, although the quad will age for several months, the hefe, saison, and porter won't require much time to become drinkable!
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Jul 4, 2013 22:56
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Mikey Purp posted:The beer out post on my keg is leaking Yep. I bought a few extras for just this reason. They lose their coil tension over time.
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Jul 5, 2013 02:06
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Deviantfish posted:Will do. Is there a point at which I should worry about lack of activity? I forgot to get a hydrometer reading to start out so I can't really keep tabs on it other than by waiting. You may never see airlock activity - that stuff is notoriously slippery. Personally, I like to go a couple of weeks in the primary and then package, but I keg and therefore my risk is much lower. Even though you did not get a hydrometer reading at the beginning of your ferment, there is probably a target final gravity on your recipe, so after those two weeks I would take two hydrometer readings a day or two apart to see that it is both about where you expect it to be and no longer changing.
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Jul 5, 2013 04:54
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Tomorrow I am going to tidy up lots of leftovers. Going for a Belgian IPA to finish about 6%, Maris Otter, crystal, maybe some table sugar to dry, Cascade, Chinook, Centennial, maybe bitter with Northern Brewer, pitching Wyeast Belgian Abbey II. What can go wrong!
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Jul 5, 2013 19:10
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So my beer has only dropped 3 points or so in the last week, leaving it at around 1.037, 10 points short of its target. Should I call it good and start my dry hop or should I pitch a more alcohol tolerant yeast? I brought it up to 22 to encourage the yeast but no dice.
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Jul 6, 2013 05:07
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Mikey Purp posted:The beer out post on my keg is leaking I think mine is leaking as well. I poured 4 oz of sugar into my Saison to carb it up, and it wasnt carbed when poured my first pint for the 4th. I noticed some beer leaking out of the post. Do I just buy a new one?
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Jul 6, 2013 05:13
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ScaerCroe posted:I think mine is leaking as well. I poured 4 oz of sugar into my Saison to carb it up, and it wasnt carbed when poured my first pint for the 4th. I noticed some beer leaking out of the post. Do I just buy a new one? Spray it with some StarSan (everyone keeps a spray bottle of StarSan around at all times, right?). If its leaking it'll bubble up and be super easy to find. Has anyone used a saison yeast in a cider? I'm moving and won't be up to brewing for a bit, but I can still pour juice in a bucket and figure I might as well take advantage of this heat wave. Toebone fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 12:27
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Brewed my Kentucky Common last week. Mash looked quite dark and was a touch worried it'd be too roasty. I didn't add any acidulated malt so the recipe notes are a bit off.  I did a short 18h sour mash because I wanted it to be just this side of sour.  Mother's garage is a dumping ground of fabric and whatnot; the runnings were quite dark but I noticed the sparge was golden in color so it quelled a lot of my fears. I tasted the wort pre-boil and the Kentucky Common was like a nice tea sweetened with caramel (too much tannin?), which isn't the end of the world, just another thing to look out for. Maybe next time not mash with the dark/chocolate malts.  Went with a pretty rigorous boil due to sparging with extra water. 1oz hops at 30min and the "brew" was over in 2.5 (w/ cooling time). Fermentation was way too high low 70s and 1009 tops at 68. I need a fridge. Tasting notes soon.
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Jul 6, 2013 13:41
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Hmm, I did the no-chill method with my wort (making the six hour drive home later today, so I'll be pitching this evening), and now I'm reading posts on Home Brew Talk and worried that I messed something up. I'm reading posts about people keeping their fermenters pressurized as they cool to prevent air from being sucked in, which makes sense. All I did was boil my two gallons of wort, pour it into a fermenter, and add cool tap water to bring it up to 5 gallons. The fermenter bucked was sealed with an airlock as it always is. Here's hoping I didn't deform the plastic with hot wort or let air get sucked into the bucket.
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Jul 6, 2013 15:08
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illcendiary posted:Hmm, I did the no-chill method with my wort (making the six hour drive home later today, so I'll be pitching this evening), and now I'm reading posts on Home Brew Talk and worried that I messed something up. I'm reading posts about people keeping their fermenters pressurized as they cool to prevent air from being sucked in, which makes sense. Is your airlock one piece or three piece? If it's one piece it can't suck water in, just air. If it sucks air in before you pitch the yeast it's actually a good thing, you want to aerate the wort before pitching to give the yeast plenty of oxygen to reproduce.
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Jul 6, 2013 15:19
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internet celebrity posted:Is your airlock one piece or three piece? If it's one piece it can't suck water in, just air. If it sucks air in before you pitch the yeast it's actually a good thing, you want to aerate the wort before pitching to give the yeast plenty of oxygen to reproduce. It's a three-piece. Looking at it now, it does look like a little bit of water was sucked in, but considering it's probably like half an ounce of sanitized water at the most, I'm not too concerned. Mainly I was worried about the interaction between the hot wort and bucket plastic (melting, warping, leaching) and getting bacteria sucked into the container itself. Hopefully all is good, because I'm looking forward to this lemongrass ginger ale otherwise.
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Jul 6, 2013 15:26
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Jacobey000 posted:Brewed my Kentucky Common last week. Let me know how the final product turns out. Local Option in Chicago contract brews a barrel aged Kentucky common that is out of this world loving good, and I'd love to be able to drink it on the regular.
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Jul 6, 2013 16:03
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Toebone posted:Has anyone used a saison yeast in a cider? I'm moving and won't be up to brewing for a bit, but I can still pour juice in a bucket and figure I might as well take advantage of this heat wave. I've heard of ale yeast working well enough in cider. Saison could be interesting. Post results if you try it because I'm going to have tons of cider to experiment with this fall.
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Jul 6, 2013 17:47
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illcendiary posted:It's a three-piece. Looking at it now, it does look like a little bit of water was sucked in, but considering it's probably like half an ounce of sanitized water at the most, I'm not too concerned. Mainly I was worried about the interaction between the hot wort and bucket plastic (melting, warping, leaching) and getting bacteria sucked into the container itself. Hopefully all is good, because I'm looking forward to this lemongrass ginger ale otherwise. You'll be totally fine. I've driven beer 45min away post brew, as well as had strong fluctuations in temp (airlock suck back) many many times. You'll be good. crazyfish posted:Let me know how the final product turns out. Local Option in Chicago contract brews a barrel aged Kentucky common that is out of this world loving good, and I'd love to be able to drink it on the regular. Just moved back to Chicago myself, would love to try that one to see how far off I was. Or if you are here I can parse a bottle off to you and see what you think it may need. Cpt.Wacky posted:I've heard of ale yeast working well enough in cider. Saison could be interesting. Post results if you try it because I'm going to have tons of cider to experiment with this fall. Planning on doing a Mead with 3711 or Belle Sasion real soon. I'd love to know what cider is like.
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Jul 6, 2013 17:52
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So I'm on day 7 of my melomel, I did SNA the first 3.5 days then stopped to let it ride out. Should I keep agitating the must to release CO2 or leave it alone? Also, I'm planning on racking on top of 6 more pounds of strawberries, should I add more yeast at that time?
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Jul 6, 2013 18:01
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Jacobey000 posted:Just moved back to Chicago myself, would love to try that one to see how far off I was. Or if you are here I can parse a bottle off to you and see what you think it may need. That would be amazing. I'll let you know if I spot Local Option's version again - it's an amazing beer and I will drop pretty much everything to have another glass.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:24
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My cream ale / kolsch hybrid has been working for a week, and its sitting at 5% abv, about 79% attenuation. Debating whether I should let it go more or cold crash and bottle ( it's at 1.01 already).
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Jul 6, 2013 19:11
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Welp, just dropped $480 on all the internal hardware for my keezer, + the Ranco temp controller and one of those little dehumidifiers. I could have sworn I got into brewing originally because it was cheaper than buying beer at the store. e: Totals so far: 4 pin lock kegs - $160 20lb CO2 tank - $115 after shipping Huge rear end old chest freezer - $30 on craigslist Hardware, temp controller, dehumidifier - $480 shipped Still to go - lumber, paint, sand-paper, sealant, stain Expected final cost: around $850 for a 4 keg setup JawKnee fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 21:54
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I'm looking to make an IPA with all of my hop additions coming late in the boil and no dry hopping. Would something like this work: http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/late-hop-ipa-7 I added some Munich and Caramel malts in there for color and some malty flavor balance, but I'm not sure if it's too much. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Jul 6, 2013 22:38
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hellfaucet posted:So I'm on day 7 of my melomel, I did SNA the first 3.5 days then stopped to let it ride out. Should I keep agitating the must to release CO2 or leave it alone? Also, I'm planning on racking on top of 6 more pounds of strawberries, should I add more yeast at that time? Depends on the gravity. The must no longer needs aeration after 1/3 of the sugars have been converted. Ex. OG 1.110 stop SNA and aeration at 1.066. No more yeast should be required, there will still be plenty in suspension. I would also add the berries in a bag if you can. This will help you avoid some serious racking loss.
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Jul 6, 2013 23:46
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Perfectly Cromulent posted:I'm looking to make an IPA with all of my hop additions coming late in the boil and no dry hopping. Would something like this work: http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/late-hop-ipa-7 I think those IBUs might be a bit on the low side, but that's a matter of taste. I think a little simcoe would be nice in that.
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Jul 7, 2013 02:38
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| # ? May 23, 2024 21:56 |
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ChickenArise posted:I think those IBUs might be a bit on the low side, but that's a matter of taste. I think a little simcoe would be nice in that. Yeah, the hop additions came entirely from this Mr. Malty post about using only late addition hops. Granted, the beer in that recipe is a red which is not going to depend on hops for it's flavor in the same way as an IPA does. I modified the recipe with some Simcoe and a small dose of CTZ at 60 min. http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/late-hop-ipa-7 Does the grain bill look reasonable? Trying to get a bit of extra malt character in there for balance without it being overwhelming. I'm actually brewing this for a work event, so I am trying to make an IPA that's a crowd-pleaser.
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Jul 7, 2013 04:35
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