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veiled boner fuel posted:What would be the best sub to ask how many Syrian refugees it would take to pedal power a bitcoin mining rig? 125W/refugee normally and 200W+ if you put a picture of Bashar al-Assad behind them that get's more distant the more watts they output.
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Mar 6, 2018 21:04
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So I'm starting to work out in my garage, and it's the pits. This is what it looks like:  Glass tile window has been blocked by garden-office built at a subsequent date. Floor is broadly level but not smooth at all. Roof is leaking, and joists are sagging a few inches in the middle (a roofer suggested they would be able to replace boards and felt, and could really just leave joists even though they're sagging as gently caress). Electric door works, but side door isn't external grade and generally that corner is damp as heck because of the leaking roof. Any views on appropriate courses of action would be greatly appreciated. I think I'd like to get an epoxy floor poured, insulate/baton/skin the walls, and roof, etc. - I know this won't be a livable space but I'd like it to be more pleasant than it is! I'd also like to do the majority myself if possible, or otherwise only outsource the most cost/time effective parts.
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Mar 9, 2018 20:56
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Southern Heel posted:So I'm starting to work out in my garage, and it's the pits. This is what it looks like: I'm no engineer but those joists look shady as hell. If they were once level and are now as bowed downwards as they seem in your pictures I don't think I would want to be in there taking pictures. You probably want an engineer, not a roofer. And some 4x4 posts. And life insurance. Or I'm completely wrong.
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Mar 9, 2018 21:21
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Pessimistically I'd say either you replace your roof now, or after you've done the floor, walls, doors etc. Guess which ones easier...
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Mar 9, 2018 22:56
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If you're not parking cars in the garage, why not add some central support beams? Edit: vvv interim as in like propping up the roof for 10-15 years until you redo the whole thing. peanut fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 9, 2018 23:17
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A kind gent on this forum (but in the tool thread?) suggested steel corrugated panels with rooflights, maybe that's a good bet. I don't mind spending some big cash on the place but it's got to come AFTER renovating the bathroom (I have been commanded in no uncertain terms) which will be fairly expensive itself. I guess I'll try to make do in the meantime. peanut, you mean as an interim step?
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Mar 10, 2018 13:21
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Temporary props before a whole new roof sounds reasonable, fix them top and bottom though, least you re-enact the sheriff's scene in Tucker and Dale
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Mar 10, 2018 14:16
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Friend posted:Unfortunately the worst area for flooding (the darker blue) is also the furthest from where it would have to go, but I suppose I could dig some drains that run to the side of the house with the driveway and then have a stone trench that runs along the driveway to the street (where I would install my raw water bottling pump). I'm pretty sure I'll be fighting elevation (though not majorly; this is Dallas, not Denver,), and I'm not sure if I could make it not look out of place with the house. It isn't exactly a neighborhood full of elegant stone driveway edging. My mom had the same problem with her backyard being the low spot in the neighborhood. She initially put "dams" in along her property line by building very elaborate flowerbeds, but someone complained to the township. It turns out that it is illegal to change the natural flow of water without studies and permits. So she ended up digging a slopped drain "walkway" from the back of her yard almost to he curb and filled it with pea stone. It doesn't look like a drain at all and the incline degree is only like 6 inches across 60 feet but it is enough that her backyard drains in hours instead of days/weeks. Applied to your house it would follow the red line. 
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Mar 10, 2018 14:41
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I am having an issue and I am not able to figure it out. I have a spigot for a water hose on my house. However, any time I turn the water on half goes in the hose and the other half goes back out the connection between the spigot and the hose. I have bought a new hose and tried new washers but nothing helps. Any ideas?
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Mar 11, 2018 18:59
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Macro posted:I am having an issue and I am not able to figure it out. I have a spigot for a water hose on my house. However, any time I turn the water on half goes in the hose and the other half goes back out the connection between the spigot and the hose. I have bought a new hose and tried new washers but nothing helps. Any ideas? Could you post a photo of the bits?
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Mar 11, 2018 19:12
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https://imgur.com/a/GOc3j
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Mar 11, 2018 19:22
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It looks like it's leaking around the stem which means you need to repack the valve.
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Mar 11, 2018 19:26
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glynnenstein posted:It looks like it's leaking around the stem which means you need to repack the valve. I just looked that up, and you are dead on with needing the repacking. Where the orange is I have water coming out of there also. Any thoughts on that?
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Mar 11, 2018 20:01
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Macro posted:I just looked that up, and you are dead on with needing the repacking. Where the orange is I have water coming out of there also. Any thoughts on that? This is presumably while the other end is closed? Do you have particularly high water pressure, and/or are you buying cheap hose connectors?
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Mar 11, 2018 20:09
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Jaded Burnout posted:This is presumably while the other end is closed? I don't believe our water pressure is high, and I am buying standard grade hoses from Home Depot.
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Mar 11, 2018 20:21
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Well, when it comes to the hose attachment leaking there's only a few possibilities. Either your water pressure is higher than the connector is rated for, the connector is poor quality so not making a seal, or the threads on the tap are old and/or lovely and not making a seal. Poor seal somewhere, or enough pressure to overcome a good seal. You could try the hose on a newer screw thread if you like. You're in the US so I'm not sure what standard is used for those taps, maybe you could try a neighbour's. Might be easier to entirely replace the tap, that way you fix your value and get new threads.
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Mar 11, 2018 20:25
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Macro posted:I just looked that up, and you are dead on with needing the repacking. Where the orange is I have water coming out of there also. Any thoughts on that? If the threads are chewed up it might not be sealing well. If you wind up taking the whole valve off replace it with a quarter turn. If they aren't chewed up clean both sets of threads and pay careful attention to if the hose is getting all the way up to the outlet to seal on your washer. Borrow a neighbor hose if you suspect the hose itself. A wire brush should be sufficient to clean the threads unless there is serious calcium build up in which case you want to submerge it in straight white vinegar or get out the gloves and use CLR to dissolve it. Careful with the CLR as I bet it could also dissolve the stucco if it gets past the paint.
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Mar 11, 2018 20:27
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H110Hawk posted:If the threads are chewed up it might not be sealing well. If you wind up taking the whole valve off replace it with a quarter turn. What do you mean by quarter turn?
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Mar 11, 2018 21:23
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Macro posted:What do you mean by quarter turn? Quarter turn valve vs the screw in one you have. Google it, prepare to be amazed.
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Mar 11, 2018 21:52
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Macro posted:What do you mean by quarter turn? A "quarter turn" valve is either a butterfly or ball valve type valve. These valves do not have flow throttling characteristics, so they are only good for uses where flow is either to be full flow or off. These often have a handle in line with the direction of flow when open. Actuating the valve is accomplished by rotating the handle 90 degrees, or a quarter turn at which point it will be perpendicular to flow. The standard valve for a spigot where you must turn the operator numerous times is often a globe valve, which does have flow throttling characteristics. Chances are you do not need a valve that provides flow throttling characteristics, and if you do, the same could be accomplished with a nozzle attachment.
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Mar 12, 2018 00:27
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Wrap your spigot with plumber's teflon tape. Helps with the inevitable grit that gets in the hose threads. Also, the orange covering over the hose might be hiding a leak where the fitting meets the hose.
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Mar 12, 2018 02:44
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I appreciate all the advice. I am going to get a new spigot and teflon tape tomorrow.
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Mar 12, 2018 02:57
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This is my bathroom - it's 7' x 5' with a 2'6" square cupboard which inexplicably has the soil pipe for the toilet (adjacent room) and boiler in it:  The people who lived here before thought that a built-in Jacuzzi bath with fancy taps (which don't have a shower attachment and thus require The World's Shittest Electric Shower to be installed and lots of beige was the height of sense. Unfortunately, jacuzzi mechanics are gummed up with years of three-child-home grease, the shower is paltry, the boiler is on the fritz and overall it needs updating. The house in general is a 1930's semi with wood flooring and lots of wood trim (the theme continues with that cupboard door). Honestly, I don't know what I don't know about this kind of thing - any advice, pointers or places to start looking for information would be great. Something like this (albeit with more natural palette) seems like it could be excellent - but I don't know how much of this is "stupid pinterest": 
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Mar 13, 2018 |
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Mar 13, 2018 17:19
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Southern Heel are you an alternate timeline version of me? I seem to always be a couple of months ahead of you on the renovation train. I understand that you're in a "don't know what I don't know" phase but do you have any particular topics you want info on? I've just gone through all this for a bathroom slightly smaller than that (inc. new boiler and plumbing etc) so I can give a primer.
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Mar 13, 2018 18:13
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Southern Heel posted:Something like this (albeit with more natural palette) seems like it could be excellent - but I don't know how much of this is "stupid pinterest": I really don't understand the half-pane of glass as a shower curtain thing that designers are all  about right now. It feels like that combined with a functional exhaust fan would result in a drafty shower with 0 privacy should you want it. It looks like that's the same thing you're replacing. How is it?
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Mar 13, 2018 18:17
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It doesn't matter if clawfoot tubs are all the rage on Pinterest if you like it, you expect to keep liking it, and it works for you. It's okay to like things even if they're popular. I agree I would think about logistics, but if that checks out, go for it.
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Mar 13, 2018 18:20
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i like nice words
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H110Hawk posted:I really don't understand the half-pane of glass as a shower curtain thing that designers are all Can't say I've ever found such a thing draughty, and privacy is what door locks are for. It's just there to stop the water getting on the floor without getting all up in your business and sticking to everything.
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Mar 13, 2018 18:22
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^ Wife wants claw-foot, so I guess that will involve re-routing any pipework under the flooring and/or extending the tiling down behind the bath - what other logistics were you thinking?Jaded Burnout posted:Southern Heel are you an alternate timeline version of me? I seem to always be a couple of months ahead of you on the renovation train. Well, I've got a combi-boiler so have no reason to think that with a good boiler and throughput having a mixer tap would make the most sense - but I'm not sure where to draw the line on price for either of those - I know there's a market at any price point and I'm not looking to go bottom of the barrel; but was hoping that the renovation could be done for 3-4k max + boiler. I think having one with a nice shower head and hand attachment (as per pinterest pic) would be nice, but not sure where to look for that kind of thing? Is having a steel vs acrylic bath that important? What the heck should I do with that stupid cupboard? I was thinking of rebuilding with a false wall (for access to the boiler) and installing a Hive/Nest when it gets replaced. H110Hawk posted:I really don't understand the half-pane of glass as a shower curtain thing that designers are all TBH I've always had a rigid shower pane instead of a curtain in every bath-shower I've ever had, so it's not unusual? Are you referring to privacy inside the room? There's only a bath/sink so not dual occupancy.
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Mar 13, 2018 18:26
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Southern Heel posted:Well, I've got a combi-boiler so have no reason to think that with a good boiler and throughput having a mixer tap would make the most sense - but I'm not sure where to draw the line on price for either of those - I know there's a market at any price point and I'm not looking to go bottom of the barrel; but was hoping that the renovation could be done for 3-4k max + boiler. Worcester boilers are the top bollocks, it seems, that's what wound up in mine and I've had independent verification that it's top shelf. I had a 40cdi classic put in and it does very well. If you get it installed by a verified worcester installer you'll get extra long warranty. No idea how much it cost as it was part of a larger invoice. Taps and shower heads etc are all pretty much interchangeable and commoditised, buy whatever you think looks nice and is made of the right material to give you value for money. Grohe do good (but expensive) stuff. You need a bunch of parts to make it all work but your bathroom fitter can tell you what it is. I'm sorry to tell you that your budget is far too low unless you're doing an awful lot of it yourself. I spent at least 2.5k on parts & tiles, 3.5k on labour, and that doesn't include the boiler or its install. Also doesn't include demo and disposal of your existing bathroom and any redoing of plasterboard etc. Southern Heel posted:Is having a steel vs acrylic bath that important? Pass. Mine's fibreglass. Southern Heel posted:What the heck should I do with that stupid cupboard? I was thinking of rebuilding with a false wall (for access to the boiler) and installing a Hive/Nest when it gets replaced. Or maybe just a nicer cupboard so you can still have storage at the bottom. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Mar 13, 2018 |
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Mar 13, 2018 18:36
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Jaded Burnout posted:Can't say I've ever found such a thing draughty, and privacy is what door locks are for. It's just there to stop the water getting on the floor without getting all up in your business and sticking to everything. Southern Heel posted:TBH I've always had a rigid shower pane instead of a curtain in every bath-shower I've ever had, so it's not unusual? Are you referring to privacy inside the room? There's only a bath/sink so not dual occupancy. Fair enough on both counts. Our shower is noticeably colder with the curtain open vs. closed, regardless of the state of the exhaust fan. Every renovation proposal we've received was the half-pane which made me dubious. As for privacy, ours is all single room shower-and-shitter. It can be nice to have the opaque curtain if someone needs to use the toilet more urgently than you want to get out of the shower.
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Mar 13, 2018 18:38
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Thanks both - so should I look for a specific "bathroom fitter"? Will need the old tile/etc. Dealt with as well so if it's all through the same business that would be great. Do I need to look for anything specific when asking around?
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Mar 13, 2018 19:19
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Southern Heel posted:Thanks both - so should I look for a specific "bathroom fitter"? Will need the old tile/etc. Dealt with as well so if it's all through the same business that would be great. Do I need to look for anything specific when asking around? My builder did one, I'll be having my usual plumber do the other. They might subcontract to a tiler or might do it themselves. They'll usually list on checkatrade or whatever if they do full bathrooms.
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Mar 13, 2018 19:23
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I would keep the current tub, give up on jacuzzi function, and focus on a quality shower head and cute wall tile (white and green). Claw foot tubs look cool but I'm very glad to not be dealing with the drips and hairballs and islands of wet dust that collect underneath.
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Mar 13, 2018 23:44
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Yeah, you'll save a lot of money if you have fewer changes to make. Replacing the bath wouldn't be too expensive so long as the new one can use the same waste and supplies, it's running the utilities that takes the time and money, connecting the actual things at the end isn't so bad.
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Mar 14, 2018 00:07
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Southern Heel posted:^ Wife wants claw-foot, so I guess that will involve re-routing any pipework under the flooring and/or extending the tiling down behind the bath - what other logistics were you thinking? Unless you are doing all the work yourself you definately need to budget more. I did my bathroom completely by myself and spent around £1200 without any labour - and I spent 6 months buying my bath, toilet, sink and all taps as special offers/open box/end of line stuff and didn't use expensive tile or flooring. I have what was probably the cheapest combi boiler 12 years ago and it runs my shower via a mixer show/bath combo tap amazingly so I don't think you need to worry too much about what boiler you buy for it to run a mixer shower. The increased water flow from a mixer is such an improvement over an old electric shower! I have a glass panel on my bath (a P shaped fibre glass one), and If i did it again now I would probably use a curtain instead (using one of the rails that curves away from you like the premiere inn hotels often have). The screen is a pain to keep clean especially if you have hard water, changes where you can easily step out of the bath and I always end up splashing water past it and getting a wet floor which I am guaranteed to find when I next walk in there only wearing socks. quote:What the heck should I do with that stupid cupboard? I was thinking of rebuilding with a false wall (for access to the boiler) and installing a Hive/Nest when it gets replaced. Keep it but rebuilt it into a nicer cupboard!. You could fit a proper contained shelving unit in the bottom with its own door separate to the boiler door/cover (If it were me I would probably adapt a kitchen base unit to fit in there as they are cheap and easy to customise) Having proper storage in the bathroom is really handy. You don't notice how good it is until you don't have it! Then you have to deal with where to store all those bottles of cleaning stuff and toiletries, the spare bog rolls and all your towels...
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Mar 15, 2018 00:50
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From using the clawfoot tub in my house, it is terrible for taking a shower. The shower curtain closes in on you and feels cold/gross the whole time. I would try and sample a friend's shower if you haven't used one before, if you even have a friend with a clawfoot anyway.
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Mar 15, 2018 03:31
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The cupboard needs cherub and rose decals.
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Mar 15, 2018 04:14
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tangy yet delightful posted:From using the clawfoot tub in my house, it is terrible for taking a shower. The shower curtain closes in on you and feels cold/gross the whole time. I would try and sample a friend's shower if you haven't used one before, if you even have a friend with a clawfoot anyway.
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Mar 15, 2018 05:01
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Thanks chaps - I'm really not a huge fan of the varnished pine + cream tile look; but maybe there's something that can uplift it? Maybe cutting out the section of brown mosaic tiles and adding some colour in there? Jaded Burnout, I'm happy to spend more, certainly - but if I'm going to do it at all then I don't want it to look like a half done job. As you can see there are many areas with pipes capped off at the surface of the tiles, and when I remove the electric shower there's going to be another gaping hole/fill at eye level. I believe all the utility plumbing won't change, apart from capping off the feed to the electric shower. I'm not 100% on a claw-foot tub, just something that would have been a nice to have - I believe there's some pretty funky stuff going on behind the bath panels (and certainly no tiles) so it could necessitate re-tiling (or maybe some kind of visual separation i.e. blue tiles under/behind the bath). Tomarse I am looking at a glass panel just by default - as per the thumbnail I linked earlier it seems that it can function quite similarly and due to the room arrangement the only place I would be able to access with a curtain as opposed to a panel would be behind the door. Having said that, can you link me an example of what you're describing? Ultimately I don't want to dump 5-6k into this and end up with a bathroom that looks kind of lovely. I'm expecting about £1750 for the boiler/fitting. Jaded, do you have a pic of your bathroom just so I can get a view on what that kind of money gets? Cheers, Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Mar 15, 2018 |
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Mar 15, 2018 10:04
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Southern Heel posted:Ultimately I don't want to dump 5-6k into this and end up with a bathroom that looks kind of lovely. I'm expecting about £1750 for the boiler/fitting. Jaded, do you have a pic of your bathroom just so I can get a view on what that kind of money gets?  I'll be doing the bath panel later, and the vent is still to be fitted. And the ceiling to be painted. IMO a larger bathroom isn't going to cost much more because getting everything prepped is the biggest job. There'd be an increase in labour prepping the walls and tiling but that's assuming starting from scratch. This was literally an empty room with bare studs and no plumbing when I started.
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Mar 15, 2018 12:24
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