|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:
At 6 ft, it is 51db, at 18 ft is 43db, top of basement stairs is about 39db. Base level is about 39db.
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 15:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:50 |
|
|
Is this the place to ask dumb questions I should already know about tile?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 16:54
|
|
|
Just post, friend
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 17:07
|
|
|
We have these cedar slats in our bathroom right around chest height up to the ceiling (ceiling is the same cedar). The previous owners got lazy/cheap with the trim so it looks p bad even though the cedar is nice. I'm wanting to plan out and cost doing subway tiles from the floor up to the cedar paneling (at least in the shower surround) and I'm running into a question... How are you supposed to interface from tile to wood paneling? Is there a right way? Is it a stupid idea? The goal is to slowly turn our bathroom into a sexy little forest green, brass, dark brown, and cedar color pallet with emphasis being placed on material choices and texture. Also should I be worried about the stupid cedar paneling in the bathroom? There's no proper ventilation fyi, just a window that we put a fan to exhaust out. We are in an exceptionally dry climate fwiw.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 17:20
|
|
|
there's wood paneling in the shower??
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 17:24
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:there's wood paneling in the shower?? Ever been in a sauna? Cedar is naturally rot resistant but yeah it does seem pretty wild.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 18:05
|
|
|
i would just tile all the way up (well, depending on ceiling height - I'd go up eight feet) if removing the paneling is feasible
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 18:39
|
|
|
You could check out the John Bridge tile forum for expert tiling advice
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 19:20
|
|
|
Justa Dandelion posted:We have these cedar slats in our bathroom right around chest height up to the ceiling (ceiling is the same cedar). The previous owners got lazy/cheap with the trim so it looks p bad even though the cedar is nice. I'm wanting to plan out and cost doing subway tiles from the floor up to the cedar paneling (at least in the shower surround) and I'm running into a question... How are you supposed to interface from tile to wood paneling? Is there a right way? Is it a stupid idea? The goal is to slowly turn our bathroom into a sexy little forest green, brass, dark brown, and cedar color pallet with emphasis being placed on material choices and texture. https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/For-Walls/c/P-FW Most of the transition profiles are designed to be put on before the paneling would be in place. With some cautious work you could probably transition it quite nicely. Find your local tile place, not the Menards Lowes Depot, and tell them what you're doing. They will point you to exactly the perfect transition product and the price for everything will be about the same as the box store. I'd have no worries about the cedar unless you plan on doing steam sauna. I just put in eastern white cedar on the ceiling of my bathroom and I live in a humid continental climate. We do have a small fan, but I'd take ridiculous low humidity if it were here.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2022 19:36
|
|
|
Just cover the transition with quirky branches and plastic ivy
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 00:19
|
|
|
Anyone know of a good home security camera system that does not rely on cloud backup or having any internet connection at all? My parents live in a rural area and ditched their stupidly expensive DSL landline internet in favor of just using their phones years ago, but this summer they're planning on being gone a lot and apparently one of their neighbors house got broken into recently. I found this thing online, it looks like the cameras plug into wall power and transmit any detected motion to a base unit where it gets recorded on an SD card. That seems kind of like what they would need (plus maybe an SD card reader USB dongle) but I've never heard of that manufacturer before and there are a few complaints of it dying after a couple of months. It seems like they could also get away with just a simple game trail camera if it came with a wall charger so they wouldn't have to rely on batteries. Any other ideas? e: vvv When they come to my house to visit for a week, I'll go to their place to housesit. Perfect! PDP-1 fucked around with this message at 01:33 on May 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 01:12
|
|
|
They could hire a house sitter. You up for a visit back home? 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 01:30
|
|
|
Get a hikvision nvr and some cameras, run cat6 everywhere you want a camera and plug right into the back of the unit. If you're tech savvy, vlan that thing off your local network and keep it from going out to the internet. If you're not, just don't plug it into your local network at all and put a keyboard, mouse, and monitor on it.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 01:50
|
|
|
Thanks! That's something like what I would choose if I could go there and set it up for them, unfortunately they're not at all tech savvy so I'm trying to find a simple all-in-one type thing with a screen and pre-paired wireless cameras. I did find one Harbor Freight system that's in stock at their local store. HF doesn't sell the greatest stuff in the world but at least they could take it back to a brick-and-mortar place if they had problems. I also found some trail game cameras with power jacks, that may be the easiest to just plop a couple in discreet places facing the doors.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 03:28
|
|
|
Having someone out who knows how to operate a hammer and also stops to think things through. Incredible
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 06:09
|
|
|
PDP-1 posted:Anyone know of a good home security camera system that does not rely on cloud backup or having any internet connection at all? My parents live in a rural area and ditched their stupidly expensive DSL landline internet in favor of just using their phones years ago, but this summer they're planning on being gone a lot and apparently one of their neighbors house got broken into recently. We had a similar requirement for a scout cabin and ended up with a ReoLink setup. Paid $500 for 4 4k cameras and a 1TB NVR. Works well without an Internet connection (though you obviously get remote access and alerts and such if you have one), just needs a monitor and power.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 13:56
|
|
|
I noticed that a circuit wasn’t working and checked the breaker, which was tripped. I put it back and it tripped again within a few minutes. It now stays tripped. There‘s only wired lighting and two external low voltage landscape transformers on this circuit—no appliances or anything. The house was rewired completely about six months ago as part of a remodel, but the exterior outlet is older and they just tied it in. It was pouring rain yesterday so I thought the outlet (which is in a bubble type weather case, but is not a GFCI) was the problem. I unplugged the transformers but the breaker still stays tripped. I don’t have much interest in fooling with electrical stuff beyond installing outlets and light fixtures. I have a multimeter and can check to see if the breaker is bad but it’s only 6 months old, so I have concerns there’s something else happening. I plan to get an electrician out here (not the one who did the work on the remodel) but he’s pretty booked up. It’s not urgent, but I’m wondering if there’s something I can do to diagnose this or at least eliminate the breaker as the source of the problem. Looking at guides online it seems like turning off the main panel switch will make it all safe to work but then no way to check the breaker, right? I could try to replace it but don’t want to mess with it if it’s something else. Either way that outlet needs to be replaced with a GFCI I think. Kind of annoyed they didn’t do that but I know it was an afterthought to even get it connected—they didn’t realize it was there when they rewired.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 15:48
|
|
|
Not sure why you're concerned about testing the breaker. The most likely issue is the outlet/the wiring to the outlet. The in use cover is probably leaking and it's full of water/rust. Breaker is already off so just remove the outlet and see.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 16:27
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Not sure why you're concerned about testing the breaker. The most likely issue is the outlet/the wiring to the outlet. The in use cover is probably leaking and it's full of water/rust. Cool, thanks. E. I removed the outlet and the breaker still stays tripped. This outlet was originally punched through the wall from the inside, though it’s possible they rewired it in the crawl space. It looks fairly normal to me and is bone dry in there. Anything that jumps out at you? Other than being non GFCI.   
Phil Moscowitz fucked around with this message at 16:52 on May 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 16:33
|
|
|
If you've disconnected the outlet and the transformers and the breaker is still tripping then I think the most likely cause is a short somewhere. I would pop into the crawl space and see if you can find any wiring from that outlet. I think since that outlet was tied into the new wiring, that's probably where the issue is. Could be there's a junction box in the crawl space that has some wires touching in it, or something like that.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 18:42
|
|
|
bought a newish home (2020, one previous owner) and the sink smells like dirt. did the baking soda/vinegar/almost boiling water thing but then started looking at the drain pipes and realized that the pipe seems to be sloping the wrong way. is the pipe sloping the wrong way??  the p-trap is to the left   also the ptrap appears to leak a dark black goo that ive resorted to catching with a tray KoRMaK fucked around with this message at 19:15 on May 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 19:05
|
|
|
Apologies if this should go in the plumbing thread, but as this story REALLY relates to home ownership I think it should be here. If it needs a move kick me. This is my weekend adventure at jackleg plumbing camp, where everyone gets to buy a crescent wrench and its awesome. (Cross post from home thread because I have questions at the end) We have been living in our 1963 brick rancher since 2016. On the plus side no asbestos OR aluminum wiring! No ground for most of it, but I can live. I have been reticent to work on things where I have to open up the wall, because sometimes, its done right and its an easy fix, other times it feels like Gover took a trip down to my area to help out a buddy. It's like opening a wall and finding a note that says "lose 2 weeks, do not pass go, lose $400" This situation is a little in between. The washing machine setup has been a little leaky, like a drop every 2 mins or something on the cold side. But also getting rusty, which seems like a not good thing. The connection is a little special seeing as we have a T in between the wall and the spigot for adapters that take it down to 1/4" from 1/2" for the refrigerator water supply. Wasn't that bad when we moved in and it was time to fix it up. (Full removed assembly below):  The junction had started leaking pretty bad, so I think to myself: "Ok this shouldn't take too long I just need to remove the stuff, go to the hardware store, get new to replace all the gross for 1/2" MIP copper and bob's your uncle!" Well, you might catch what is happening the in that photo. But that T isn't brass, its galvanized, which is screwed into the wall supply which is copper. I get the issue, it LOOKS galvanized, but scratching it with your keys will show its definitely copper. Which explains a LOT of the issues I had had with the water flow for the refrigerator which I can only describe as "ant pissing in the wind" I grab what tools I have, and YouTube on speed dial and get to work. I had to remove some paper towels some asshat had shoved in the wall around the 90 degree fitting screwed into the wall. That totally isn't foreshadowing for what will come later!   YUM!   Then the true fun begins, I wanted to remove the nipple in the wall threaded into a 90 degree fitting to replace with a longer one that will give me more working room to assemble all the fun stuff AND put a cut off in front of the new T. Its not pictured here because I lost my poo poo late afternoon Saturday trying to get it out. But penetrating lubricant and an internal wrench got me through. Which, by the way! Internal Wrenches! That stuff is amazing and I DID NOT KNOW about them until this issue trying to get that nipple out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfYDPhaf0Aw Very useful stuff, and I now have one for all the eventual new fun I am going to do to my house. Now, here is where the fun begins. I get everything "back together" and did some shifting so I have a red for hot and a blue for cold. Had to re-PTFE tape some connections and had to run to the HD like 4 times for parts because I am a new and didn't realize that MIP (male iron pipe) is different from flare. Well I know now! Everything fits! everything works! I have like two little leaks which while sad, is better than what I started with:  Also notice the rear end in a top hat level AC condensate drain slapped in-between this. I.. can't.. even with that one. Well as I am checking for leaks, I find water on the solder side of the joint in the wall where those new paper towels are sitting. I have done all that work, to still need to cut the 90 degree fitting off and redo it. This is a lesson that if it looks like a dumbass did something in the wall, expand your observation radius, you might only be in the eye of the storm. This where I finished up for today. It "works" for moment. And I am "done" working on my house for today, which is all I can ever really say. The wall fitting has me pretty pissed. I want to do it right, and I was shooting for temp fix, but now I am engaged enough to nail this thing straight to hell. ptier fucked around with this message at 21:40 on May 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 21:23
|
|
|
ptier posted:if it looks like a dumbass did something in the wall, expand your observation radius, you might only be in the eye of the storm. No! Everything else is fine! Once I fix this bit the house is perfect and will need no other attention! (I feel you, especially the last paragraph)
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2022 22:14
|
|
|
We managed to transfer the load that was bearing on the roof, and without cracking any glass yet. Maybe we won't have to demolish the whole addition to replace it's roof, hell ya
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 03:02
|
|
|
KoRMaK posted:bought a newish home (2020, one previous owner) and the sink smells like dirt. did the baking soda/vinegar/almost boiling water thing but then started looking at the drain pipes and realized that the pipe seems to be sloping the wrong way. Can’t answer your plumbing q with confidence, but when you purchase a build from 2020 with a previous owner, does any builder warranty transfer to you? I would be pissed dealing with stuff like this in a 2020 build but maybe you are SOL if no transferable warranty, also not sure the standard duration on those.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 03:07
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Can’t answer your plumbing q with confidence, but when you purchase a build from 2020 with a previous owner, does any builder warranty transfer to you? I would be pissed dealing with stuff like this in a 2020 build but maybe you are SOL if no transferable warranty, also not sure the standard duration on those. Depends on the state but usually there are warranties that transfer automatically with different timeframes, like Louisiana is 1 year for anything, 2 years for plumbing, electrical, HVAC, 5 years structural. So maybe look into that because you might be coming up on a statute of limitations (if you cared that much). E. If it’s just moving pvc this isn’t a new home warranty thing, it would cost almost as much to perfect your claim against the builder as it would to just fix it. Phil Moscowitz fucked around with this message at 03:42 on May 23, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 03:39
|
|
|
Phil Moscowitz posted:Depends on the state but usually there are warranties that transfer automatically with different timeframes, like Louisiana is 1 year for anything, 2 years for plumbing, electrical, HVAC, 5 years structural. So maybe look into that because you might be coming up on a statute of limitations (if you cared that much). What do you mean perfect your claim? If it's truly a warranty with no deductible, what is the downside you are referring to. Or do you mean the time spent dealing with the paperwork?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:20
|
|
|
as far as im aware, dont have a warranty. guess i could call the builder and ask. sounds like fun...
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:21
|
|
|
I enjoy reading this thread 
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:24
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:What do you mean perfect your claim? If it's truly a warranty with no deductible, what is the downside you are referring to. Or do you mean the time spent dealing with the paperwork? At least in Louisiana you have to give notice to the builder of the defect and give them an opportunity to fix it, and I would recommend talking to a lawyer about the legally adequate way to do so. But not for a pvc pipe repair. You can try calling the builder but good luck.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:26
|
|
|
so, does the pipe need to slope the other way then?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:28
|
|
|
Yes. A hacksaw and But before you cut anything, slide your level over a bit more to the left. The right end is resting on the pipe flange; the level should be resting on just the lateral pipe itself to get the pitch...which is even more back-pitched than it shows in the current photo. VVV Yes, many YT videos. The blue stuff is either dyed primer, or dyed glue. You need: schedule 40 PVC of the right diameter. Looks like 1-1/2" that transitions to 1-3/4" past the garbage disposal line And of the same diameter: one long-sweep 90-degree elbow two couplings maybe a trap set & a 1-1/2"x3 wye then can of primer can of PVC pipe glue a piece of sandpaper (to clean the cut ends of the pipe, inside & out) a hacksaw Now, fortune favors the bold: You can try first to cut a section, maybe 3/4", out of the center of the tailpiece (the vertical pipe dropping from the sink), and use a coupling to glue them back together, creating a shorter tailpiece. This probably won't work, because schedule 40 PVC isn't very flexible, especially in the lengths that you're working with here. So you'll be better off cutting out a section of the horizontal and on up to the middle of the tailpiece, and seeing if you can't build a new right-angled section. The problem that you run into is trying to get that lateral to pitch down. It's tight & PVC doesn't bend, so gluing the couplings together forces the pipes straight... SO it would probably be easier to install a separate trap at the tailpiece, which would give to a little vertical wiggle room as the trap is typically a slip joint. There is supposed to be a trap coming right off of the garbage disposal, so you'd shitcan the trap that's there and tie the two drains together with a wye. You're up to about thirty bucks. Removing the trap will reveal the black goo secret (it's crap from the garbage disposal and some numbnuts didn't properly glue/tighten the joint. Also, the whole shebang may be under some tension, which makes proper joint adhesion difficult) PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:56 on May 23, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:29
|
|
|
okay, and what's the blue poo poo connecting the pipes, do i gotta get some of that? is there a youtube video that will inform me enough not to gently caress this up?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:31
|
|
|
That’s pvc cement, yes you need it to weld pvc. Look for videos about cutting pvc pipe and how to run pipe under a sink. Or pay the professional $150 to do it.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:35
|
|
|
Phil Moscowitz posted:Or pay the professional $150 to do it.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:36
|
|
|
Do call the builder in parallel though if you don't mind spending that extra time (no worries if you don't want to bother)! I am curious how they end up taking it or if they help you out at all, whether they are legally obligated to or not. If I helped run a builder company and had plumbers basically on staff for my huge projects, I would help you out as a caller and send a plumber over just for the goodwill aspect, to not come off like an rear end in a top hat. But who knows how this would play out in real life.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 04:53
|
|
|
Another plumbing question: Just noticed the drain connection for one of my 2 bathroom sinks looks, well, extremely crusty. Is there a water leak issue that needs to be fixed here? I have ~7 days remaining on my home warranty before it is gone forever, so if this is worth a $100 trade fee to get a pro, I wanted to ask a sanity check here. I would not be willing to sweat pipe and DIY a replacement on this. There does not seem to be dampness, and I do not notice any residue on the cabinet bottom or any water damage.  
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 07:04
|
|
|
What in the hell. So that's a galvanized compression nut on the pvc connecting to your (apparently) copper drain pipe. Galvanic corrosion is causing all that blue oxidation. I have no solution to offer other than that doesn't look right. I feel like there should be a plastic compression nut used to avoid dissimilar metals.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 12:01
|
|
|
Seconding galvanic corrosion. Don't mix copper with steel. You need to replace that nut with a copper or plastic one.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 14:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:50 |
|
|
Thanks, I think I’m going to see if the home warranty will send a plumber. For the record this is like the 10th easily assessed bog standard item (check under sink) missed by my inspector. So you should pretty much learn home inspection basics before you buy and check the work in real time. I did look under the sink but not closely enough and maybe it had PO’s crap in the cabinet that I didn’t move out of the way. Ugh.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2022 16:12
|
|