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Das Volk posted:I have no idea what they think they're doing putting those on that car, that's what, an additional 15% on top of the base price? I could absolutely see, if I were an absurdly rich F1 driver/oil sheik/whatever who wanted one to go with my million pound cars as a luxurious track hooner, getting that. If the price itself is nothing to the buyer, then the price +15% is not much more of a deal.
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Feb 27, 2014 18:22
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The best part about ceramic brake pricing - $10k is what they charge after deducting the cost of the steel brakes that you didn't get. The actual stand alone cost is significantly more. On the other hand they do last a long time.
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Feb 27, 2014 18:42
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Das Volk posted:I have no idea what they think they're doing putting those on that car, that's what, an additional 15% on top of the base price? "Porsche offers them, so we must, too." "OK. The margins on this option are fat and we'll sell at least a few. " I really don't think the reasoning went any deeper than that.
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Feb 27, 2014 18:50
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Aren't ceramic composite rotors supposed to be good for very nearly the life of the vehicle? (Provided they aren't abused that is) E: In aviation we've been using them for a bit more than thirty years, and they've been found to last up to three times longer than steel rotors, with the added bonus of improved stopping power and lighter weight. MrChips fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Feb 27, 2014 |
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Feb 27, 2014 22:09
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SlapActionJackson posted:Normal cast iron vented rotors and multi-pot callipers are standard and will be fully up to the task, even on track. There is really no reason to get the CCCBs given the absurd cost. I have no idea what the BMWs cost but if I were buying a Porsche that I planned to keep I would absolutely buy the PCCBs. They are light as hell, are supposed to last over 100k and will pretty much never ever fade no matter how hard you push it (plus you get the baller yellow calipers). On a 9x1 car, doing the brakes front and rear twice (probably 30-40k miles depending on how hard you drive it) will put you right at the initial cost. The composite brakes would only be worn half way by then. They do also help resale as well.
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Feb 27, 2014 22:17
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Bugdrvr posted:I have no idea what the BMWs cost but if I were buying a Porsche that I planned to keep I would absolutely buy the PCCBs. Hey man it's your (hypothetical) 8+ grand, but even the PCCBs don't make sense from an operational cost perspective. While the CC rotors can indeed last over 100K miles, that's only under ideal-to-moderate conditions. Heavy track use will shorten their lifespan considerably. They're also fragile as hell - minor chips, nicks, or cracks can render them unsafe to use and you can do this as easily as carelessly removing a wheel from the car. Also, the brake pads won't last as long as the rotors under even ideal conditions, so you still have to replace those a few times. And because the rotors are so fragile, lots of people replace pads with tons of life left because they don't want to risk any damage to the rotors. I've never had brake job labor quoted from a porsche dealer, but there's almost no way it can be expensive enough to make up the cost difference given that a replacement set of CC Rotors is eighteen loving thousand dollars, and iron rotors are <$1k. This is even more true if you turn your own wrenches.
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Feb 28, 2014 03:56
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Das Volk posted:I have no idea what they think they're doing putting those on that car, that's what, an additional 15% on top of the base price? I can see those selling like hotcakes in the Los Angeles market. The dealer will simply only show those on the floor, and someone with a mid-life crisis or the child of someone rich-enough will just buy it not knowing or caring. People who really insist they will drag the M3 down from storage.
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Feb 28, 2014 04:24
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Aren't CC brakes known for being a bit weird until they warm up as well? Seems they're great on a track where you can keep 'em heated up, but probably not so nice when it's 40 degrees and raining or worse if you live in a place that gets a real winter. Then again I guess if you can afford a $10k brake option you've probably got a winter car or three.
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Feb 28, 2014 04:30
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It was a decade ago and there were several supercars that avoided CC brakes on that basis, but the warmup issue has largely been resolved now. I'm assuming they've done this through different pad compositions and/or variable brake boost systems that clamp down harder when the car is cold.
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Feb 28, 2014 06:43
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The composite brakes out today are excellent when cold. They come as options on Cayennes and Panameras, you couldn't really tell a soccer mom to do a warmup lap before taking the kids to school. As far as longevity I'll admit that I haven't seen any at 100K yet but today I worked on a heavily tracked GT3 with 34K on it and the pads had a little higher than 50% of the material left. The rotors themselves were in excellent condition. This guy would have gone through at least 3 sets of regular pads and rotors by now. At ~$1800 for parts alone each time, per axle, the PCCBs start to make sense. Anyway, sorry for the derail.
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Feb 28, 2014 07:17
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KozmoNaut posted:I hate that mentality, like the instant something breaks in even the smallest possible way, it's completely worthless and needs to be replaced with a brand new item. I've seen people throw stuff in the trash that could have been fixed easily, sometimes the only thing wrong was a bit of cosmetic damage. They could at least have given it to a thrift store or something instead of trashing it! I love people that do that poo poo. loving right, throw away that lovely old car. Lemme buy it from you, cash right now. I'll give you $500 more than carmax. Then I super clean the fucker (loving clean cars sell!), fix whatever lame problem it has and resell for $2,500 more.
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Feb 28, 2014 16:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is how it starts. Four years later you're standing in your car's engine bay, wondering how it all went so This is a picture my wife took of me years back entitled "I've lost control of my life." 
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Feb 28, 2014 16:10
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trouser chili posted:This is a picture my wife took of me years back entitled "I've lost control of my life." How are those heaters? I'm thinking of grabbing one. My little old ceramic heater is struggling to keep up with the frozen wasteland that is my garage.
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Feb 28, 2014 16:39
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:How are those heaters? I'm thinking of grabbing one. My little old ceramic heater is struggling to keep up with the frozen wasteland that is my garage. drat thing pisses me off. You can't adjust the angle of the head on the thing at all, completely fixed. So instead of throwing heat down the underside of whatever I'm working on, it just uselessly heats the grill of the truck. So you'd think "I'll outsmart the dumb little heater and shim the base on it", but it has a switch underneath to detect if it's fallen over or whatever and as soon as the switch releases, the thing emits a terrible buzzing sound and cuts power to the heater. Anyway, some sheet-metal screws jambed into the tip-over switch fixed that and made it terribly unsafe I'm sure, but it works for me now. It can throw heat pretty well, enough to keep me comfortable even at the far end of the truck, as long as it's pointed at me that is. It's like a spot-beam of warm, get outside the spot and it's cold again.
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Feb 28, 2014 16:46
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My dad ran a kerosene forced air heater in the garage when we lived in Alaska and managed to move into a house without a heated garage. Turned the place into a sauna, those things do not mess around when it comes to producing heat.
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Feb 28, 2014 16:53
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xzzy posted:My dad ran a kerosene forced air heater in the garage when we lived in Alaska and managed to move into a house without a heated garage. You also get some pretty awesome spirit visions when the door is closed.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:53
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xzzy posted:My dad ran a kerosene forced air heater in the garage when we lived in Alaska and managed to move into a house without a heated garage. Yeah I've worked on many a piece of farm equipment and dressed out a few deer in an unheated workshop with one of those bad boys going. You went from seeing your breath to needing to strip down to t-shirts rather quickly.
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Feb 28, 2014 18:33
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xzzy posted:My dad ran a kerosene forced air heater in the garage when we lived in Alaska and managed to move into a house without a heated garage. Yeah, we used one of those for band practice in a Morton building years ago. Stayed nice and warm, but the guitars couldn't hold a tune for poo poo.
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Feb 28, 2014 20:05
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Probably more along the lines of lazy worker, but here is some plating failure: Passenger side:  Driver side: 
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Mar 1, 2014 03:31
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Speaking of PCCBs When we tell you that you need tires because your cords are showing it doesn't mean forget all about it and drive around for a few weeks until the tire is so worn it splits in half (crappy photo but the inner bead is still happily seated). Lucky guy. He managed this and didn't damage the wheel or the car.
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Mar 1, 2014 06:57
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How the hell is it so drat shiny?
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Mar 1, 2014 21:09
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It's wet, you can tell by the water droplets on the fender. I am also going to guess that a lot what is visible is probably the inside of the tire with less UV exposure.
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Mar 1, 2014 21:20
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Friar Zucchini posted:How the hell is it so drat shiny? If I had to guess, the heat probably re-vulcanized the rubber while it was in motion. e: I guess it could be wet too.
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Mar 1, 2014 21:20
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Crossposting from the terrible car stuff thread.jaegerx posted:The ghost is coming from inside the car How does that even happen.
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Mar 2, 2014 03:43
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-Zydeco- posted:Crossposting from the terrible car stuff thread. 
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Mar 2, 2014 03:47
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-Zydeco- posted:Crossposting from the terrible car stuff thread. Defective or misadjusted power steering pressure control valve.
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Mar 2, 2014 03:49
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-Zydeco- posted:Crossposting from the terrible car stuff thread. I saw a similar video a while back, except it was a Lexus of some sort. It's been a while since I saw it, but if I remember right I think the explanation for that one was that interference from a poorly shielded aftermarket HID ballast was interfering with the electric power steering. e: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLHWgAmx3Iw Don't see the explanation for it though, can't remember where I read that thing about the HID interference. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Mar 2, 2014 |
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Mar 2, 2014 04:41
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Black88GTA posted:poorly shielded aftermarket HID ballast This gives me hope. Hope that the cars will rise up and beat the poo poo out of their owners* for installing lovely HIDs. * or at least their hands.
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Mar 2, 2014 05:20
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While I can't speak for the new electric power-steering systems, an old school hydraulic one will straight up break your arms if it does that and you happen to have your arm through the wheel, loving with the gauge cluster or whatever. Always make sure you have the power-steering set up properly before trying to zero-out the trip odometer, kids.  Source: my awesome as gently caress high-school automotive teacher, who saw this happen to an old co-worker.
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Mar 2, 2014 05:28
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kastein posted:This gives me hope. Hope that the cars will rise up and beat the poo poo out of their owners* for installing lovely HIDs. I've seen Chinese HID ballasts blacken their cases from overheating, it wouldn't surprise me if there's been a few car fires from it.
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Mar 2, 2014 07:01
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Edit: Wrong tread.
Citycop fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 12:15
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On the 240sx reversed power steering lines (feed connected to supply, supply connected to feed) will cause the wheel to flail around like that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQJt17uYls4
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Mar 4, 2014 04:37
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Pretty much any car with hydraulic power steering (rack and pinion, not sure about recirculating ball) will do that if you reverse the lines to the rack. I've done it before by accident at work; it was an interesting test-drive.
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Mar 4, 2014 07:15
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I thought that the feed and return lines had different sized fittings on everything specifically to prevent that sort of thing?
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Mar 4, 2014 22:05
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Hahahahaha, oh you! Nah lots of cars have unbelievably lazy design and the only difference is one hex fitting will be 'taller' than the other so you can get a pipe spanner on it more effectively, but this doesn't help with the positioning if you're reassembling something taken apart by someone else two weeks ago.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:22
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Things like that are the reason I want to strangle so many people I've never met.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:24
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Wasabi the J posted:Yeah reading the Chilton manual really gave me some perspective on how easy a lot of car maintenance is. It only took me two hours to install a custom radiator, and I was suddenly super pissed when I remembered the cost of getting my previous car's radiator FAN replaced through a shop; it was apparently held in with three clips and plugged in. I did the same thing. Called a shop to ask how much the radiator and thermostat replacement was on my F150. They quoted me at like 1k parts and labor and I was like 'gently caress that' tore it apart in my back yard on a Saturday afternoon and when I got stuck had a coworker come by because I promised him a 12 pack. The feeling when done was glorious. Next up is replacing my brake rotors because they are chewed to poo poo for some reason.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:49
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Plinkey posted:I did the same thing. Called a shop to ask how much the radiator and thermostat replacement was on my F150. They quoted me at like 1k parts and labor and I was like 'gently caress that' tore it apart in my back yard on a Saturday afternoon and when I got stuck had a coworker come by because I promised him a 12 pack. The feeling when done was glorious. This effect is magnified quite a bit when you own a BMW. Blower motor is somewhere around 1500 at the dealer, I replaced it for like a hundred bucks.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:41
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revmoo posted:This effect is magnified quite a bit when you own a BMW. Blower motor is somewhere around 1500 at the dealer, I replaced it for like a hundred bucks. The BMW wanted over $800 for the mass airflow sensor for my 540. Napa wanted over $400. A lot of VWs use the exact same sensor, which napa had for $170. The dealer would probably charge a grand to spend 5 minutes swapping it out.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:42
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BMW dealers are hilarious. $500 for ONE front caliper on an e36. Not even an M3.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:48
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