|
bblaze posted:Don't think I saw any comment on this one. Any advice? If your original Windows 8 key was a *retail* copy, by upgrading it to Win10, it should be a Win10 *retail* key, and all you should have to do is call Microsoft to have it reactivated on a new computer. If it's an OEM copy, technically they shouldn't do that, but there have been instances where you get a representative that's feeling generous that day.
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 02:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 01:16 |
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:If your original Windows 8 key was a *retail* copy, by upgrading it to Win10, it should be a Win10 *retail* key, and all you should have to do is call Microsoft to have it reactivated on a new computer. If it's an OEM copy, technically they shouldn't do that, but there have been instances where you get a representative that's feeling generous that day. Thanks bud. So I guess I should make a new windows 10 boot drive then as well and just use my old key.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
bblaze posted:Thanks bud. So I guess I should make a new windows 10 boot drive then as well and just use my old key. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/5d5ly4/can_i_move_my_windows_10_product_key_to_a_new/
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 03:23
|
|
|
With a pretty insane deal, the 1070 came back into my price range, but with the Ti just $40 more, I might as well go for that instead. This should be my final build. See any last-minute issues? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($200.98) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($122.99) Memory: GeIL - EVO SPEAR 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($141.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($130.00) Storage: Toshiba - P300 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card ($367.35) Case: Fractal Design - Define C with Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99) Total: $1162.29 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-06 00:28 EST-0500
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 06:38
|
|
|
I'm guessing that $370 price on the 1070Ti is post-GC? Because I'm pretty sure *I'd* be a buyer at that price. Other than that, look into the EVGA G3 or Seasonic Focus Plus PSUs as they're newer/better. The Seasonics have a 10y warranty throughout the Focus Plus line (as does the other thread staple, the Corsair RMx), while the G3s have a 7y until the 750W SKU, where it goes up to 10y. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Dec 6, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 06:42
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:I'm guessing that $370 price on the 1070Ti is post-GC? Because I'm pretty sure *I'd* be a buyer at that price. It's not, actually. Bear with me: MSI 1070 Ti on Jet.com: $497.43 -$10 (new Jet account referral) -$8.95 (free return opt-out) -18% cash back (purchase through Ibotta app) -$5 (Ibotta Jet promo) -$10 (new Ibotta account referral) -$10 (MSI rebate) = $367.35 I don't know if everyone can get that 18%, but I hadn't heard of Ibotta before today and it was there when I signed up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 06:50
|
|
|
TheEye posted:It's not, actually. Bear with me: Woah. Break all this down for me, how do these rebate websites work? I’d definitely pick up a 1070 to for that price.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 07:20
|
|
|
JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Woah. Break all this down for me, how do these rebate websites work? I’d definitely pick up a 1070 to for that price. Ibotta seems to be similar to Ebates, just in app form. You buy stuff by going to them first and clicking through to the merchant, so they get a commission and pay you for it. 1. Download Ibotta app on your phone 2. Open the app and sign up for a new account with a referral code (mine is yinjqgh if you need) 3. Search for Jet.com - if it says 18% back then you're golden 4. Sign up for Jet.com with a referral separately in your browser (mine if you need) 5. Back to Ibotta, click the button to shop at Jet, it will load Jet.com, click on the bottom to continue 6. Sign in with your new Jet account 7. Search for the GPU you want and buy it, the referral and return opt-out discounts will show immediately but you'll have to wait a while for Ibotta 8. MSI currently has a rebate for most cards at any retailer, you can find the pdf at Newegg I think that's everything, heh... edit: The 18% maxes out at $100 by the way. If you get a 1080 you might hit that limit. runawayturtles fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Dec 6, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 07:33
|
|
|
This might be a stupid question, but does ram speed really matter in the long term? Is there a significant advantage to having a DDR4 stick clocked at 3000 as opposed to 2400? Will you see any real world performance gains?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 09:40
|
|
|
Riggy posted:This might be a stupid question, but does ram speed really matter in the long term? Is there a significant advantage to having a DDR4 stick clocked at 3000 as opposed to 2400? Will you see any real world performance gains? It's been proven by a few rather well-thought-of websites that higher speed ram provides boosts to things like minimum FPS, which provides more fluidity and enjoyment when gaming. Also, on Ryzen 5 and 7 CPUs, the speed and performance of the interconnect between the distinct cores is directly tied to RAM speed. So yeah, there's a reason we suggest DDR4-3000/3200 - you *can* get higher speed stuff, but eventually price and gains will meet a point where you're getting diminishing returns for money spent.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 09:47
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:It's been proven by a few rather well-thought-of websites that higher speed ram provides boosts to things like minimum FPS, which provides more fluidity and enjoyment when gaming. Also, on Ryzen 5 and 7 CPUs, the speed and performance of the interconnect between the distinct cores is directly tied to RAM speed. So yeah, there's a reason we suggest DDR4-3000/3200 - you *can* get higher speed stuff, but eventually price and gains will meet a point where you're getting diminishing returns for money spent. Ah, got it. I'd consider picking up faster ram but good lord the prices are way too high right now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 10:11
|
|
|
So i7-8700k's are prices are pretty much going to be hosed until next year right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 12:03
|
|
|
I think so. No reason to lower them with the high demand for those CPUs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 12:06
|
|
|
The Coffee Lake chips that are being made in the additonal site in China, that Intel is using to meet demand, are supposed to start showing up around December 15th. Probably not going to stop sellers gouging you on the price for a while though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 12:23
|
|
|
That thing happened to me where I saw an okay-ly priced monitor that I wants (Acer XB271HK) and like if I buy that I'm not gonna want a 1060, am I, but if I'm gonna spend all that much money on all this crap then I might as well spend a hundred more £ and get a 1080 instead of a 1070 given that I intend to eventually own a 1080 anyway. The immediate spend is going to sting like hell but I honestly think I'd otherwise just end up upgrading later and thereby spend more money overall. The question is, given this mindset; what to do about CPU? Currently my list contains a i5 8600k and a bequiet cooler. Between everything else up to this point I'm about at the limits of budget comfort, so with that in mind; I can spend almost £100 less to get an i5 8400 with a stock cooler, or maybe £50 more for an i7 8700. Is it broadly recommended to spring for the i7 in this case? What's the performance difference? The mobo I've got listed reportedly isn't great for overclocking but there aren't a lot if options for z370 at microATX size so I think looking for the K i7 is probably not reasonable. CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (£250.85 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Pure Rock Slim 35.1 CFM CPU Cooler (£21.01 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£105.97 @ More Computers) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£209.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£109.20 @ Aria PC) Note: I have a 1TB Crucial 2.5 SSD on hand for a data drive Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (£500.85 @ CCL Computers) Case: Fractal Design - Define Mini C TG MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£84.98 @ Novatech) Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£85.47 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£99.99 @ Amazon UK)
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 15:01
|
|
|
TheEye posted:Ibotta seems to be similar to Ebates, just in app form. You buy stuff by going to them first and clicking through to the merchant, so they get a commission and pay you for it. You must have gone with the 1070 Ti GAMING instead of the 1070 Ti DUKE. Is there any difference in the performance and rebates/refunds for these two, or is it possible to save an extra $20 by going with the Duke?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 15:44
|
|
|
Fedule posted:That thing happened to me where I saw an okay-ly priced monitor that I wants (Acer XB271HK) and like if I buy that I'm not gonna want a 1060, am I, but if I'm gonna spend all that much money on all this crap then I might as well spend a hundred more £ and get a 1080 instead of a 1070 given that I intend to eventually own a 1080 anyway. The immediate spend is going to sting like hell but I honestly think I'd otherwise just end up upgrading later and thereby spend more money overall. The main thing that the i7 does better than the i5 is highly parallelized tasks like video filtering/encoding on the CPU. If you're using this mainly for gaming, you're really not going to see much of a gain from an i7 - it does have better single thread performance too, but the difference isn't huge, and you're not really spending so much money that the i7 is in "eh whatever might as well" territory either. That motherboard you have there really isn't suited to overclocking either, so just go for the best value CPU at the moment - that is, the i5-8400. There are overclocking boards in the even smaller mini-ITX form factor (f.ex. Asrock Fatal1ty ITX/ac) but they're close to twice the price of the one you've chosen and it's not really worth it from a price-to-performance standpoint. With that being said, you need much less PSU for a non-overclocking build. 750W would be appropriate for an overclocking build with a 8700K and 1080Ti - you'll be fine with 550W. Swap to a Corsair RMx 550W or Seasonic Focus Plus 550, save a few pounds and gain seven sweet years of warranty over the CSM unit you have there. The Corsair CSM series isn't outright bad like the CXM series was, but it's really not impressive for its price point either. The RMx series is much better, comes with a 10-year warranty and for whatever incomprehensible reason it has a similar market price, at least for the 550-750 W units. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Dec 6, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 16:26
|
|
|
JUST MAKING CHILI posted:You must have gone with the 1070 Ti GAMING instead of the 1070 Ti DUKE. Is there any difference in the performance and rebates/refunds for these two, or is it possible to save an extra $20 by going with the Duke? I asked this question a few pages ago, and the jist of the responses were the Duke was slightly louder and there was possible coil whine, but that it was otherwise fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 17:15
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:The main thing that the i7 does better than the i5 is highly parallelized tasks like video filtering/encoding on the CPU. If you're using this mainly for gaming, you're really not going to see much of a gain from an i7 - it does have better single thread performance too, but the difference isn't huge, and you're not really spending so much money that the i7 is in "eh whatever might as well" territory either. That motherboard you have there really isn't suited to overclocking either, so just go for the best value CPU at the moment - that is, the i5-8400. There are overclocking boards in the even smaller mini-ITX form factor (f.ex. Asrock Fatal1ty ITX/ac) but they're close to twice the price of the one you've chosen and it's not really worth it from a price-to-performance standpoint. PSU advice is noted and appreciated and I'm gonna do it but it doesn't seem like I will actually save a huge deal of money from it (RMX 550 looks to run me £75, give or take). But hey. It's a tenner more than I'd have otherwise. For CPU talk, is your perspective on whatever price territory altered at all by the fact that I haven't yet accounted for the monitor and keyboard, which between them I expect to run maybe £650?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 17:33
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/5d5ly4/can_i_move_my_windows_10_product_key_to_a_new/ You the man.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
Fedule posted:PSU advice is noted and appreciated and I'm gonna do it but it doesn't seem like I will actually save a huge deal of money from it (RMX 550 looks to run me £75, give or take). But hey. It's a tenner more than I'd have otherwise. A bigger PSU doesn't hurt exactly, you can get 750W if you want to (hell, with these 10-year warranties you might go for 750W it with the expectation that maybe next build after this one will be a hardcore overclocking one). It's up to you if you want to save that tiny bit of money or not, I'm just saying you don't have to spend it if you don't want to  Really, what I think you want to spend money on in a PSU is the warranty and the peace of mind that comes with it. PSU's really aren't any fun to buy so when you do get one it's great to know that you won't have to replace it or worry about it for a long rear end time.My discussion of i5 vs i7 was written with the assumption of a budget around £1500 or less, and I read you as think that was already kinda steep. If the entire budget is closer to £2000, the difference between the i5-8400 and the i7-8700 (around £150 if you include the cooler) is a bit under 10% of the entire build cost, so you could argue that that places it in "eh, might as well" territory. On the other hand, it's almost twice the cost of the i5-8400 but it certainly doesn't have anywhere near twice the performance in the vast majority of use cases. As I said, whether the improvement actually is noticeable to you now (or noticeable to you in five years from now) depends entirely on what you use the computer for. If you're short on cash and mainly use the computer to play games, I really don't think going with the i5-8400 is a bad idea at all. It's a great CPU and great value for the money, especially since it has six cores compared to the previous generation's four (and finding things that actually benefit from four cores is rare today, much less six). On the other hand, if those 150 quid aren't a huge deal and you plan on using this CPU for as long as you possibly can, then an i7 can be an option. There's no right answer here, really. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Dec 6, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
Where does OEM computer DDR4 speed tend to cap out at? And how badly would that impact an i5 or R5 compared to 3200 for gaming and possibly recording (but not streaming) at the same time?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 18:30
|
|
|
JUST MAKING CHILI posted:You must have gone with the 1070 Ti GAMING instead of the 1070 Ti DUKE. Is there any difference in the performance and rebates/refunds for these two, or is it possible to save an extra $20 by going with the Duke? It's louder as Grumpwagon said, but more importantly it's too big for my case. Performance should be the same, rebate is $10 for both.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 19:39
|
|
|
Sniep posted:This is awesome to hear. I was hoping it would be a good pairing for a 1080 Ti to have that Dell 34" UW - if they ever loving ship it - but was feeling like i should have waited for a 4k UW. I don't think mine is ever going to. I talked to them Tuesday and said it would ship today. Now, it's next Tuesday it will ship. This is the 4th time they have changed my ship date. I originally ordered it on the 24th. I decieded to just cancel it and buy it elsewhere. With NewEgg's current sale on it it only comes out $130 more than Dell's price. Not to bad. Digital Jedi fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Dec 6, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 21:50
|
|
|
If any Boston goons are looking for a budget gaming PC, I just listed one in SA-Mart. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3842903
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 00:49
|
|
|
Digital Jedi posted:I don't think mine is ever going to. I talked to them Tuesday and said it would ship today. Now, it's next Tuesday it will ship. This is the 4th time they have changed my ship date. I originally ordered it on the 24th. Well gently caress! I ordered mine the 26th lol. Yeah mine's been delayed 3 times now. This time they are claiming it will arrive the 11th, but I think they're lying. Might as well keep waiting though I already have a 4K I'm on now, i just... don't want to get too used to it before stepping back down to 1440..
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 01:09
|
|
|
My next question to pester you with is about M2 SSDs. Currently I have specced and budgeted a 250GB Samsung 960 EVO. It wowed me with its numbers. 3200 is a big number of megabytes to be able to read in a second. There's been RAM this side of the millennium that could just about read that fast. A lot of other M2 formfactor SSDs I'm seeing at comparable prices are all advertising 5-600 MB/s r/w speeds. Notably I'm pretty sure the Crucial 2.5" SSD I'm going to be getting for free is 530/510. But reviews I read of the 960 EVO are groaning under the weight of caveats and asterisks and warnings that the 250GB version is actually not good? I am convinced TomsHardware have discovered the subliminal shutdown codes for my thinking brains, but "The 960 EVO 250GB at $129 is a wash. The drive is not competitive against the MyDigitalSSD BPX that costs less." sure jumped out at me. The 960 EVO 250GB retails for £110, give or take. The Crucial as a boot drive is nothing to sneeze at. For £110ish, I can be convinced to buy a different drive to boot from if it will make my OS/game/app loading times a great deal faster. Is this thing, or another similar thing at the same price point, the order-of-magnitude improvement it advertises itself as?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 03:32
|
|
|
Fedule posted:My next question to pester you with is about M2 SSDs. the real benefit for m.2 is if you're doing databasey highly sequential things like moving terabytes around and 250gb just isn't enough space for that sort of thing nor do most consumer boards have easy ways to RAID that poo poo to make it really shine
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 05:49
|
|
|
Fedule posted:My next question to pester you with is about M2 SSDs. What you're seeing is the difference between an NVMe (like the 960 EVO) and an M.2 SATA drive (like the Crucial). Most Z370 boards have 1-3 M.2 slots (and most Z270 1-2), and one of them is almost always an either/or slot which can accept an NVMe or SATA drive (with the latter deactivating one of the SATA ports on the motherboard it's linked to - this is why PCPP always shows a 'conflict' whenever you pick an M.2 SSD). As Anime said, going NVMe gets you amazing boosts in large file reading and might make Windows boot in three seconds instead of five to seven, but bear in mind that Windows is still programmed to play nicely with HDDs. The same is true of a lot of applications and games - they have to code with small files in mind so people with HDDs still get a ~passably enjoyable computing experience~. Also, Samsung's probably launching their new NVMe drives at CES in January, so right now you'd be spending a higher price for something that's about to be replaced. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Dec 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 06:04
|
|
|
Even if NVMe drives see a POST->Windows benefit, they often extend the POST time by a comparable amount if not more.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 07:33
|
|
|
Well it sure sounds like I should just save my £110 then, huh.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 11:11
|
|
|
Fedule posted:Well it sure sounds like I should just save my £110 then, huh. At the moment it's a far better expenditure to buy a larger SATA III SSD than an NVMe drive half the size and occasionally twice the price. I'd likely have a 500GB NVMe as my boot drive as a bet-hedger were I kitting out a computer tomorrow, but in those years I'd be hedging my bets for, something new would likely come along, like a further maturation (and decrease in price) of Intel's OPTANE tech.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 11:24
|
|
|
Well, I'd say a Crucial MX300 1TB for £0 would fit the bill perfectly then? This is where I stand. I'm increasingly happy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 12:38
|
|
|
Fedule posted:Well, I'd say a Crucial MX300 1TB for £0 would fit the bill perfectly then? What's the rationale behind the 32GB of RAM? Also, the ASRock Pro4 might not be a stellar overclocker - its power delivery is average to adequate, but there aren't a lot of MicroATX options for Z370 yet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 13:39
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:What's the rationale behind the 32GB of RAM? Also, the ASRock Pro4 might not be a stellar overclocker - its power delivery is average to adequate, but there aren't a lot of MicroATX options for Z370 yet. The rationale was that it was £20 over a comparable 16GB kit and I thought "gently caress it". I am aware that the ASRock Pro4 is not renowned as a stellar OC board but I'm not massively interested in cranking this thing to 5 jiggerhurts for weeks of continuous load. I am given to understand that some more modest boosts may be possible with this board but I'm not even sure I'll go that far. Since I just got talked out of the M2 SSD, I could be talked into springing for the ASUS Strix or the MSI whatever instead if anyone has pertinent opinions on those.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 13:47
|
|
|
Honestly, if I were building my own machine, I'd stick with ASUS or ASRock's high mid-range boards. So the Z370G Strix would likely be a good choice, but you're paying extra for 802.11ac/BT4.2 which you might or might not use. Also into what the 4x8 DDR4-3000 kit would run. If you've got a Z370, you might as well take advantage of the ability to use higher-clocked memory.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 13:57
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Honestly, if I were building my own machine, I'd stick with ASUS or ASRock's high mid-range boards. So the Z370G Strix would likely be a good choice, but you're paying extra for 802.11ac/BT4.2 which you might or might not use. Reviews (such as I can find) are a mite cool about the Strix. Bit warmer on the MSI Z370M. The WiFi and BT would be bonuses, frankly. Honestly I'm not altogether sure about what to make of a lot of the information I find about these boards. Especially where Amazon reviews and Q&As are concerned. 4x8GB DDR4-3000 looks like a £100 premium over my 2666. Value proposition iffy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 15:50
|
|
|
Fedule posted:Reviews (such as I can find) are a mite cool about the Strix. Bit warmer on the MSI Z370M. The WiFi and BT would be bonuses, frankly. Honestly I'm not altogether sure about what to make of a lot of the information I find about these boards. Especially where Amazon reviews and Q&As are concerned. Triple check that the 2666 RAM isn’t DDR3...
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 19:05
|
|
|
So i have managed to scrounge up a $800 budget for upgrading my current PC. I am currently playing games (Wolfenstien 2, PUBG, BF1) at 1080p (this is also my work pc in which i do a lot of excel and accounting work if this matters). My current system is as follows: CPU: Intel - Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($58.35 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock - Z97E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ B&H) Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($204.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($103.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card Case: EVGA - Hadron Mini ITX Tower Case w/500W Power Supply Power Supply: Corsair - SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series White 2 pack 52.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.49 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Dell - S2340M 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor Monitor: Dell - S2418NX 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($219.99 @ Dell) Keyboard: Logitech - G413 Carbon Wired Gaming Keyboard ($79.95 @ B&H) Mouse: Logitech - G203 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ Amazon) I have modified the case to to be able to accept the corsair SF600 PSU and everything runs silent and cool and sits on my desk all pretty. I currently have the dilemma of wondering whether to upgrade my gpu or to upgrade my cpu,mobo,ram, and with my budget i can rally only chose one i think. I was hoping to move up to coffee lake so i built an upgrade list as follows: CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($295.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI - Z370I GAMING PRO CARBON AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($162.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($192.60 @ Newegg Marketplace) Total: $651.57 I eventually want to upgrade my monitors to 1440p high refresh rate monitors but that would require that i upgrade my gpu which i was planning on holding off, unless i can cram something in with the budget that i have.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 19:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 01:16 |
|
|
ughhhh posted:So i have managed to scrounge up a $800 budget for upgrading my current PC. I am currently playing games (Wolfenstien 2, PUBG, BF1) at 1080p (this is also my work pc in which i do a lot of excel and accounting work if this matters). My current system is as follows: Check slickdeals or r/buildapcsales for cheaper RAM unless you are purposely choosingRGB RAM which is more expensive.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2017 19:28
|
|