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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Because I am a dumb child when left to my own devices I decided to add a CR-10S to the growing fleet of printers around my house. Unfortunately on the first attempt to heat the bed it failed "on" and now heats uncontrollably until I unplug it. Guessing its the mosfet. That happened to me when I first installed and hooked up the mosfet board for my Maker Select. It turns out I had the inputs reversed. It could be something like that but it also may just be a bad mosfet. I'd check the wiring just to be certain.
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Mar 21, 2019 04:38
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I'm new to Fusion 360 (and modelling in general), after beating my head on the wall for a couple hours trying to model this thing I now surrender for help. What is the best way to connect two shelled bodies in Fusion 360? I've now learned that lofting two hollow bodies is normal in Fusion 360  
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Mar 21, 2019 04:47
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Surface-loft the outside and inside separately, then knit it into a solid.
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Mar 21, 2019 04:54
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Leave them solid, loft, THEN shell them?
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Mar 21, 2019 09:47
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Sagebrush posted:Surface-loft the outside and inside separately, then knit it into a solid. Thanks, I'll try this Rapulum_Dei posted:Leave them solid, loft, THEN shell them? That is the secondary path I started down yesterday but I needed different thicknesses so I figured I'd ask to see if there was a better way  e: Thank you Sagebrush, this worked out really well  
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 22:58
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Anyone in here print in a more commercial manner? A customer of the company I work for is interested in me printing out fit and alignment templates for them. Which I don't mind doing, but I'm pretty clueless as to what a proper cost to charge would be. This could be a couple 4-5 off parts, or it could wind up more. If it was just printing off an STL a few times, I'd just quote 4-5 bucks per print hour, but this also involves some modeling work as well. Which would lead me towards a, this is the price for one, and this is for any after sort of thing. On the other side, I don't care to deal with creating my own company to sell directly, so I'd likely just charge time through work, and let them handle the money. But I'd likely be running afoul of the license for fusion 360. My dad has set up a company before though with a similar customer. I may go that route if there winds up any real volume/money changing hands.
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Mar 22, 2019 01:12
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The lofted surface is pretty thin so I will probably make it thicker but this worked out well. Press fit onto the GoPro and the M58x0.75 threads I calculated and added to Fusion 360 actually work with the filter ring. I'm pleased for a first draft.    
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Mar 22, 2019 01:19
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Golluk posted:Anyone in here print in a more commercial manner? A customer of the company I work for is interested in me printing out fit and alignment templates for them. Which I don't mind doing, but I'm pretty clueless as to what a proper cost to charge would be. This could be a couple 4-5 off parts, or it could wind up more. If it was just printing off an STL a few times, I'd just quote 4-5 bucks per print hour, but this also involves some modeling work as well. Which would lead me towards a, this is the price for one, and this is for any after sort of thing. Life long consultant here, not with experience in printing for profit. You probably want to be charging different rates. There's the part where your engineering experience is a much higher rate to set up the part and slice it, and then there is production cost (which should be hours + materials).
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Mar 22, 2019 01:43
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Golluk posted:Anyone in here print in a more commercial manner? A customer of the company I work for is interested in me printing out fit and alignment templates for them. Which I don't mind doing, but I'm pretty clueless as to what a proper cost to charge would be. This could be a couple 4-5 off parts, or it could wind up more. If it was just printing off an STL a few times, I'd just quote 4-5 bucks per print hour, but this also involves some modeling work as well. Which would lead me towards a, this is the price for one, and this is for any after sort of thing. Yeah do two different charges: one for the CAD/creative work and one for "running a machine as a service to do a thing". Regarding the latter: watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffg9dArNfCg and check out his spreadsheet. If this is your first rodeo it may be an eye opener.
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Mar 22, 2019 02:03
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Thanks for the advice. I gave the video a look, but it didn't really cover initial design vs production. My only clue to price is the part would normally be made up by a union tool maker over a few hours, on the weekend. So If I actually did the math on this, it's likely at least 2 hours labor for design, 1-2 hours of prototyping print, and 3-4 hours of production print time. Easily in the 125-150 range for the initial part.
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Mar 22, 2019 03:07
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Yes, that video & spreadsheet is just regarding the production part.
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Mar 22, 2019 03:16
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I print semi-commercially (aka as a side business). My competition is the college kid with the My First Ender3, which leads to a handful of "well thats 5 cents worth of plastic", and I quickly know not to work with that person again. For printing, I charge 10x materials cost, and I'm making minimum wage with an average of 4 printers running, so .......... do the math. It is not entirely glamorous, but it's paying enough to let me pay for a CPA to tell me I'm making minimum wage.
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Mar 22, 2019 04:49
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Rexxed posted:That happened to me when I first installed and hooked up the mosfet board for my Maker Select. It turns out I had the inputs reversed. It could be something like that but it also may just be a bad mosfet. I'd check the wiring just to be certain. Got a replacement part; the leads on the new one are reversed, so I made that assumption and soldered the new plug onto the existing wires, now it's printing fine!
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Mar 22, 2019 04:56
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insta posted:For printing, I charge 10x materials cost, and I'm making minimum wage with an average of 4 printers running, so .......... do the math. It is not entirely glamorous, but it's paying enough to let me pay for a CPA to tell me I'm making minimum wage. I'll echo what others have said though, if you do 3D design work then charge more for that separately, which also has the benefit of not getting a bunch of single minor change requests. Then for the actual printing, just use 10x plastic costs and you should be about right. The material itself is very little of the cost of 3D printing but can give you a ballpark indicator of how difficult it is to produce. This might need to be adjusted if the parts you're printing are not designed for 3D printing and therefore require massive amounts of post-processing or has a high failure rate.
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Mar 22, 2019 17:59
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yo lemme know if you need extra burst volume
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Mar 22, 2019 18:01
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I separate out materials, (post-)processing, and machine time. Machine time includes depreciation, which I think is a big deal. I might expect a printer to last 2000 (for example) hours, which means the hourly rate includes (cost of the printer / 2000) as a base cost of just running things. Reason I went that route was because simple $/mL or $/gm calculations never seem to account well for everything. You get weird results for small but intricate prints as well as big fat slow prints, which leads to minimum per job charges but that also is just a bandaid imo. Now having said all that, lots of methods can work and none of them are wrong. I was just happier and it worked better for me by splitting costs into Materials + Post processing + Machine Time. It helps show people where the costs are, too.
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Mar 22, 2019 19:18
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A jobbing CNC shop I chatted to charges $60 an hour, and they’d price a job on TOTAL hours. So if your job took only 1 hour to cut on the machine but 3 hours to prepare, you paid for 4 hours. Not many CNC jobs take 36 hours like a print can, but in principal it’s your time you’re charging for. An accountant sure as hell doesn’t charge based on their material cost so why should you? When I did one offs for work at the very least they’re buying me a full roll of filament, which I keep the balance of, naturally.
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Mar 22, 2019 21:31
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Rapulum_Dei posted:A jobbing CNC shop I chatted to charges $60 an hour, and they’d price a job on TOTAL hours. So if your job took only 1 hour to cut on the machine but 3 hours to prepare, you paid for 4 hours. A lot of CNC places I've contacted also require a setup charge if it's a one off thing, does the pre-print homing count as a setup?
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Mar 22, 2019 21:35
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Of course  Real answer: if someone comes to you with something from thingiverse with a bunch of makes that’s one thing. But more often it’s ‘hey this unobtainable part broke could you make me a replacement based on these phone photos? I’ll pay you for the couple of bucks worth of plastic it’ll take’ Their setup charge is for converting whatever files you gave them to work on their machine. 3D printing can have the same issues.
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Mar 22, 2019 22:01
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Rapulum_Dei posted:But more often it’s ‘hey this unobtainable part broke could you make me a replacement based on these phone photos? I’ll pay you for the couple of bucks worth of plastic it’ll take’ Additive manufacturing's equivalent of being paid in exposure
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Mar 22, 2019 22:04
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Charge the most you think the client will be willing to pay e: don't do this if the client is poor, obviously BMan fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Mar 22, 2019 |
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Mar 22, 2019 22:07
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Don't do any type of custom work in any industry for a person who doesn't regularly order custom work. The only way it's worth your time is to create the illusion of customization by assembling preset options like a trophy shop; the type of customer who needs one print one time will not value your time.
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Mar 23, 2019 06:57
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I just put my poo poo up on thingiverse and completely ignore any comments because gently caress you this stuff is for me. I don't have a fanbase or anybody to please. It's the same with twitter. Oh no someone who I admire followed me. Prepare to be disappointed.
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Mar 23, 2019 09:18
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Queen Combat posted:I just put my poo poo up on thingiverse and completely ignore any comments because gently caress you this stuff is for me. I don't have a fanbase or anybody to please. I make a point of open licensing my poo poo sometimes. Like , yeah world, have my corner bracket I made it in 2 minutes
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Mar 23, 2019 14:05
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Queen Combat posted:I just put my poo poo up on thingiverse and completely ignore any comments because gently caress you this stuff is for me. I don't have a fanbase or anybody to please. Thingiverse comments, especially on mechanical/printer related/brackets, a dumpster fire of "dear sir please you make one that <insert something that should take 10 minutes in CAD if you bothered to learn it>". FU. Learn CAD if you want to do this stuff. Most of the items I've seen these requests on even include the cad files.
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Mar 23, 2019 16:41
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I made a parametric mount to attach boards to 2020 extrusions for the Voron project. You'd figure that'd be enough, since you can just put your own values in and presto, a new version. Plenty of people have been bugging me, because filling in two measurements is a lot of work. A bunch had special wishes, I relented and did some custom ones. Oh what a mistake that was, because they kept going on and on for adjustments. I should learn to ignore people some more.
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Mar 23, 2019 19:15
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I had someone ask me to make a left-handed version of one of my things because they couldn't mirror it themselves, lmao
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Mar 23, 2019 20:20
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 They really do exist 
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Mar 25, 2019 03:32
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What’s the big advantage with the powder coated sheet over the normal sheets?
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Mar 25, 2019 06:29
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Anyone here had any luck with Alloy 960CF? I did see a few reports about warping issues, but was not expecting it to be this bad. Pretty much impossible to print anything. Ordered some ColorFabb Low-warp PA-CF, so hopefully that will work better.
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Mar 25, 2019 07:08
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Sockser posted:What’s the big advantage with the powder coated sheet over the normal sheets? You don't have a piece of PEI bonded to it that likes to peel up/bubble with use especially when printing hot and they have an arguably nicer (at least more interesting I suppose) surface finish. Whenever they're actually back in stock/orderable again I'm going to grab one for ABS.
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Mar 25, 2019 14:41
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BMan posted:I had someone ask me to make a left-handed version of one of my things because they couldn't mirror it themselves, lmao
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Mar 25, 2019 14:53
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CapnBry posted:People are a problem. Word. Some days I really hate what somehow turned into my job thanks to some of OctoPrint's users 
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Mar 25, 2019 22:05
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foosel posted:Word. On the plus side it being freeware does always leave you the option of snarkily responding that they're welcome to a full refund of the purchase price, or the classic passive aggressive open source response "pull requests accepted". Seriously though OctoPrint is one of the most important programs in the 3D printing world IMO and basically everyone who would otherwise be using serial connections or SD cards should be praising you for it.
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Mar 26, 2019 04:42
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foosel posted:Word. Thank you for all your hard work. My printer is 10x more useful because of OctoPrint.
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Mar 26, 2019 05:45
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The price of doing something as a job: an intimate knowledge of its ugly side  Also, Octoprint is what got me to open a Patreon account.
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Mar 26, 2019 05:47
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Powder coated sheet update: Prints are popping themselves off as they cool. That never happened with the smooth sheet. Weird, but very cool.
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Mar 26, 2019 06:22
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Anyone have any experience with the BLTouch smart v3? I've heard it has a problem crashing into the build plate with Marlin 1.1.9 and below so not sure if it will work on my Ender 3 Pro. Is it worth installing Marlin 2.0 alpha bugfix to the Ender 3 board or do you need to upgrade to a MKS Gen L board? There's a lot of conflicting information based on google translations from german guides. I mean I plan to buy the Gen L eventually then print an external case for it and the raspi running Octoprint to bolt onto my WIP Lack enclosure. Problem is I'm getting really tired of trying to get my print bed perfectly level as it always seems as if one corner is slightly off resulting in one corner of a print having a rounded base. Even after adding a glass bed with sponge applied PVA glue as shown in the attached photo, which seems to make my phone's camera go all weird. 
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Mar 26, 2019 06:32
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Mar 26, 2019 16:45
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Oooh, decade old tooltip tracking technology.
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Mar 26, 2019 18:15
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