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FISHMANPET posted:instead of the switch loop being done on the black and red wire with the neutral unused, the switch loop uses the black and the white, with no markings on the white to indicate it's hot, and the red is just capped off at both ends. I don't know why they used the white instead of the red, but if you put a fan in you'll be using the white as power which is not a problem. There should to be a neutral at switch boxes though, so it's slightly strange that the white is being used as a hot instead of a possible future neutral. Nothing that can't be rewired down the road if you get occupancy sensors. As far as why power doesn't hit the switch first (the modern standard in my experience), it's hard to say without seeing the job. Re: the upstairs circuits/labeling, you'll have to ask them. If they were just replacing k&t and not running new circuits, then it seems like it might be fine; just take an afternoon and relabel them. If they ran more new circuits but they're combined together due to the previous small panel, you can ask them about that. Circuits don't need to be on a per-room basis or anything (not counting baths/kitchens/etc).
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Aug 16, 2021 15:17
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Yeah there's no neutral in the switch box, the unused red wire just has a I kind of wonder what an inspector would say if they took a close look at something like that. We did get a permit for all the work, and the inspector did come for an inspection. But the work was so much stuff - K&T rewire, main panel replacement, service upgrade, and sub-panel replacement that the inspector didn't look at everything. I suspect he talked only with the main electrician, who gives off strong vibes of competency, and didn't see a need to dig into every little detail to pass us. Either way I'm going to talk to the main guy about it. We've talked quite a bit while he was around, and he's very interested in the overall quality of the company, to the point where he's taken on a position with some more responsibility so he can try and institute some better training for the electricians and generally raise the quality of the work. So even if there's nothing dangerous that needs to be replaced, he'll be interested to see the level of work that was done. But in cheerier news, the way I discovered this particular switch/light wiring is that I was investigating the ceiling box to make sure it was capable of supporting a fan. I impulse bought a fan I saw on clearance that I liked the look of, and I figured once I had everything down and understood the wiring and had the fan, I might as well go the rest of the way and just install the fan. So now I've got a fan in my office! Only two more bedroom fans to go. Oh yeah, I need to ask about fan-rated boxes, I asked for all the ceiling boxes upstairs to be fan-rated since I wanted fans, and they were up there anyway. The one in my office was good, it was screwed straight into the ceiling joist above it. The second bedroom looks like a cheap new-work ceiling box nailed into the side of the joist. Easy enough to fix if I need to, since I've got easy attic access right now. And the main bedroom I have no idea, need to dig around a bit, maybe I'll be lucky and it's like my office box, bolted into the joist. I'd say I'd be much happier without the burden of knowledge, if I just left well enough alone everything would be fine and I wouldn't need to worry about anything. But then again the last time I did that, it was me living with knob & tube that squirrels had chewed through, and some of it run through an insulated ceiling joist cavity. So maybe I'm better off knowing too much than not enough.
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Aug 16, 2021 16:15
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Our apartment is full of this old style of outlet: Under that panel is a cute little fuse:  Many of the outlets don't work and my hope is that they simply need a new fuse. My question is do I need to turn the power off at the breaker whenever I want to change a fuse? That's what I have been doing but only because I am clueless. I plan on having an electrician evaluate all of this next month. I assume he is going to want to replace everything. Heck just for aesthetics I want to replace them! I assume these funny fuse things no longer exist. Could a modern double socket go here?
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Aug 17, 2021 13:56
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Associate Christ
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other people posted:My question is do I need to turn the power off at the breaker whenever I want to change a fuse? That's what I have been doing but only because I am clueless. I sure would.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:18
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Update to my bullshit: main electrician is here, he says it's all wrong, they didn't wire anything right or the way he asked, he's pissed, he's gonna fix it.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:19
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cruft posted:I sure would. Yeah. Speaking as an American who still had a fuse panel until recently, never replace a fuse while a circuit is live. Besides the obvious danger of electrocuting yourself, you also will get arcing, which over time will destroy the contacts and risk fire. Now maybe this fuse is inline with the plug so not energized unless something is plugged in, but at the rate fuses get blown, I'd play it extra safe and cut the breaker upstream.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:24
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other people posted:Many of the outlets don't work and my hope is that they simply need a new fuse. My question is do I need to turn the power off at the breaker whenever I want to change a fuse? That's what I have been doing but only because I am clueless. They definitely make outlets with integrated fuses now for countries that require them. It wouldn't surprise me if there were a plastic fuse installer tool that could let you do that hot, but if you're using your fingers then absolutely cut power. It's the equivalent of working on a hot outlet - technically as long as you don't have a path to ground you're fine, but if you screw it up even just a little bit you get zapped. If you have a multimeter you can test if the fuse still works quickly and easily with continuity mode. This can be done hot.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:26
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Something's been bugging me since my house had some power surges last week. A tree fell on the transmission lines between some poles in front of our house, but only took down the lines on one side of the pole. The power blinked a few times, I could hear arcing and see flashes outside, but it eventually stabilized and stayed on. Every circuit still worked, except for our AC condenser. The smart thermostat gave me a 240v undervoltage, but I was able to get the dryer to work, although not very well as it turned out. When all the lines were fixed, the compressor started working again. I know us houses gets 2 120v phases, and how they're split between circuits in a breaker panel. I'm baffled at why only the ac compressor went out. If we lost a phase, wouldn't it have killed some of the circuits in the house?
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Aug 18, 2021 17:18
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Brute Squad posted:I know us houses gets 2 120v phases, and how they're split between circuits in a breaker panel. I'm baffled at why only the ac compressor went out. If we lost a phase, wouldn't it have killed some of the circuits in the house? One of the legs might not have been completely out. It's not uncommon to see crazy weird voltages on one leg or another if the lines were damaged, especially if your neutral was hosed. Some appliances are going to be more sensitive to this than others. I know it's shorthand, but US houses don't get 2 phases. It's technically split-phase. The center-tapped secondary on the transformer feeding your house gives you the neutral to which the 2 hots are 180 degrees out of phase.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:35
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FISHMANPET posted:Update to my bullshit: main electrician is here, he says it's all wrong, they didn't wire anything right or the way he asked, he's pissed, he's gonna fix it. It is a bunch of bullshit but I am glad that he is taking ownership. You found a good dude.
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Aug 19, 2021 01:57
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What are people running to the garage for future EVs? For example, I know some Tesla people are running 40A circuits, but the electric F-150 is supposed to have an 80A wall charger and I could see having that and another EV next to it easily.
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Aug 19, 2021 02:55
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Hed posted:What are people running to the garage for future EVs? Those ultra fast chargers aren't going to be the norm as people get sick of replacing batteries. Smart grid / intelligent charging is likely to lower the amps needed overall. I imagine as people own multiple chargers they will start having multiple plugs.
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Aug 19, 2021 03:20
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My plan is to put a 60A subpanel in the shed next to our parking pad, but that’s not just for future EV charging, it’ll also be powering my mig welder and whatever other tools end up being installed out there.
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Aug 19, 2021 03:45
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I've got a 125 amp sub panel to install in my garage at some point down the line, with the plan to power multiple EV chargers, garage and workshop outlets, and plenty of extra stuff if I want.
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Aug 19, 2021 03:55
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I reset a tripped breaker and suddenly my entire panel, entire condo unit’s electricity is down. No other tripped breakers. I turned them all off then on and no dice, still dead. Staying with family tonight because of this WTF did I do.
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Aug 19, 2021 05:32
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Inner Light posted:I reset a tripped breaker and suddenly my entire panel, entire condo unit’s electricity is down. No other tripped breakers. I turned them all off then on and no dice, still dead. Staying with family tonight because of this WTF did I do. you didn't do anything.. flipping a breaker on and off to reset your AC should not destroy power to your home without there being a separate issue. Everyone else in your area have power? I'd call an electrician, have them test the incoming power etc.
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Aug 19, 2021 13:01
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Hed posted:What are people running to the garage for future EVs? I have a 100A sub panel out there, but I don't plan on going crazy with charger amps. I've already run 2 separate circuits of 12/2 to spots where charging would be convenient for both spots that are currently just 5-15 outlets. My plan would be to convert those to 240v 6-20 for chargers. I might get saucy and pull 10/3 for 240v 24A charging, but no higher than that. 12 or 20 miles per hour is really all anyone needs for cars that sit overnight. I don't need to augment my penis with a zillion amps of charging.
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Aug 19, 2021 13:35
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B-Nasty posted:I have a 100A sub panel out there, but I don't plan on going crazy with charger amps. I've already run 2 separate circuits of 12/2 to spots where charging would be convenient for both spots that are currently just 5-15 outlets. My plan would be to convert those to 240v 6-20 for chargers. I might get saucy and pull 10/3 for 240v 24A charging, but no higher than that. instructions unclear, penis now electrocuted.
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Aug 19, 2021 13:47
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We ran a 40A to the driveway, which now handles 2 cars, and we've never wished it was a bigger circuit. However, if you buy that hummer EV, you're going to need as many amps as you can get if you want to drive it two days in a row.
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Aug 19, 2021 14:27
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The electrical work I had done included a new panel and every breaker is a CAFI (combo GFCI/AFCI). On most of my circuits, if I use my plug-in tester and press the GFCI test button on it, it trips the breaker (good). I've got two circuits where that... doesn't happen. I can't find much info on what the circuits "need" to have a CAFI breaker, but I know it's something because there was one circuit with a standard breaker and the electrician mentioned why it couldn't be CAFI but it didn't stick. These two circuits are right next to each other actually, one is for my washer, one is for my (gas) dryer. They're both 20 amp circuits, and the wiring actually runs through the same conduit (panel > washing machine outlet > dryer outlet). There's no grounding wire, but the boxes and conduit are metal. The outlet tester indicates them as grounded, and running a multi-meter between the hot wire and the metal box shows 120 volts. I've got two ideas of potential issues. First, since the wires come in via the same conduit, I want to verify that the hots and neutrals didn't get mixed up when they got plugged in at the panel. Second, I swear the reason my one circuit couldn't get a CAFI was because of grounding, so I'm wondering if these outlets aren't grounded in a way that works with the CAFI breaker. Another interesting thing that again I can't find any info on. With my plugin tester (Klein RT210) when I press the GFCI test button, it indicates one circuit has an open ground, and the other has hot & neutral reversed. With a different plugin tester (Klein ET310) on both circuits when I press the button the lights indicate hot & neutral reversed. But both indicate it has "correct" when plugged in and no buttons pressed.
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Aug 19, 2021 14:56
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B-Nasty posted:I have a 100A sub panel out there, but I don't plan on going crazy with charger amps. I've already run 2 separate circuits of 12/2 to spots where charging would be convenient for both spots that are currently just 5-15 outlets. My plan would be to convert those to 240v 6-20 for chargers. I might get saucy and pull 10/3 for 240v 24A charging, but no higher than that. Yup. 240V/80A will be for fleet trucks where speed matters. I mean, and bros in their bro trucks who do bro things. It's a nice features to have for when you're trying to charge on the go, but for home use people simply don't need hyper fast charging by default.
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Aug 19, 2021 15:02
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Here's a plug for the EV Thread in AI, where peoplewould be happy to pontificate for pages and pages on what sort of driver might need an 80A L2 EVSE, and also whether it's more energy efficient to coast to a stop or use regenerative braking. (But seriously, it's a good thread if you're thinking about buying an electric car.)
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Aug 19, 2021 15:23
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FISHMANPET posted:The electrical work I had done included a new panel and every breaker is a CAFI (combo GFCI/AFCI). On most of my circuits, if I use my plug-in tester and press the GFCI test button on it, it trips the breaker (good). I've got two circuits where that... doesn't happen. I can't find much info on what the circuits "need" to have a CAFI breaker, but I know it's something because there was one circuit with a standard breaker and the electrician mentioned why it couldn't be CAFI but it didn't stick. It sounds like those receptacles don't have a ground, or they have a bootleg ground. The plug in GFCI testers require an actual EGC to shunt some of the current to through a resistor. If it's a bootleg ground (i.e. actually the neutral), that won't trip the GFCI breaker, because the shunted current is just heading back the way it should. Neither CAFCIs or GFCIs need an actual EGC to work and protect you, but if those receptacles don't have a real ground, they should be labeled as such and should not have a bootleg loop connected. AFCIs are basically required for all living areas now, and recommended everywhere. There are basically just exclusions for basement/attic/garage, if they aren't rooms. That electrician sounds kinda sketchy.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:10
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Yeah I'd say that if you are worried the electricians mixed up a hot and neutral in the panel then all confidence is lost and they were not the best choice to rewire your entire house
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Aug 19, 2021 16:24
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Am I safe to assume any subpanel listed as "outdoors" is going to handle indirect water spray on a regular basis, or is there something in particular I need to look for? For context, the PO of my house set up a sprinkler timer and a receptacle hooked up through a 6x6 junction box, adjacent to one of the sprinklers in a way where it gets wet every time the sprinkler runs. I'd like to add a 1.5hp electric sprinkler pump in place of the gas semi-trash pump that's there today. This is ~150' from the main panel, and as a bonus they went ahead and ran four 12ga conductors, including an as-yet-unused red conductor. Conduit is PVC, almost certainly 1/2". I still have to do some poking around to make sure that red wire goes as far as I need it to, but assuming it does, it seems like I should be able to swap out the 6x6 box for a subpanel with a 20A main breaker, a 15A duplex breaker for the pump, one 15A breaker for the existing 120V gear, and a 15A breaker for some LED lighting that might eventually happen.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Am I safe to assume any subpanel listed as "outdoors" is going to handle indirect water spray on a regular basis, or is there something in particular I need to look for? You want a NEMA 3R rated enclosure. Those are rated for outdoor use and can handle normal water like rain. quote:NEMA 3R Characteristics:
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Aug 19, 2021 16:47
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Inner Light posted:Update: that's exactly what happened. It's a new panel, 2002 build. I texted a HOA board guy (whose number I happened to have) last night and asked him if there was any room outside my unit equipped with breakers, at the time he said no. Out of curiosity here ... in a condo building, what is the electrical difference between the big main breaker at the top of my panel (100A), and the 1 breaker for my unit in the electrical room (also 100A)? I believe this screwed up AC tripped the 100A in the electrical room, but not in my panel, which was confusing. I had no power til we could get someone in with a key to the room 
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Aug 19, 2021 17:05
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Since you said you had someone come out and mess with the wiring it sounds like you have a short somewhere. I'm guessing they didn't connect all the wires fully and the AC unit vibrated a wire loose after a couple days of operation and it's now touching the metal frame.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:09
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Inner Light posted:Out of curiosity here ... in a condo building, what is the electrical difference between the big main breaker at the top of my panel (100A), and the 1 breaker for my unit in the electrical room (also 100A)? I'm going to guess the one in your panel is so you can shut your unit off, and the one in the electrical room is so your landlord/property manager can shut your unit off. Also, based on some of the poo poo I've seen ITT, I'm going to guess occasionally renters will replace the 100A main breaker in their unit with a 300A breaker, so they can run their bitcoin mining operation or whatever. So you have two 100A breakers protecting the same circuit.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:15
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It's required by code to protect the wire between the utility room and panel in the unit. If there wasn't a breaker that run could be potentially exposed to very high fault current (like right form the pole, depending on how things are set up). The NEC requires protection on those runs when they are more than a certain distance......which I think i remember being only a few feet. Potentially any distance at all in multi-unit resi.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:25
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B-Nasty posted:It sounds like those receptacles don't have a ground, or they have a bootleg ground. The plug in GFCI testers require an actual EGC to shunt some of the current to through a resistor. If it's a bootleg ground (i.e. actually the neutral), that won't trip the GFCI breaker, because the shunted current is just heading back the way it should. I actually swapped the outlets last night, which led me to start asking questions. Short story first on what's going on with these outlets. They're inside a metal enclosure, which connects to metal conduit which runs all the way back to the electrical panel. The outlet itself (the original one, and the ones I just installed, copying the old wiring) was just hot and neutral, no ground wire at all. But as far as I can tell, the metal enclosure itself is grounded. I tested this with my multimeter, put one end on the hot, and the other touching the metal box, and it read 120V. The outlet is attached to the metal switchplate with a metal screw in between the two outlets, and the metal switchplate is attached to the metal box with metal screws. Looking at the outlet, that middle screw makes contact with a metal frame which is connected to the ground screw. So between all that, and the fact that my outlet tester says it's good, I believe these are grounded. But maybe it's a bootleg ground. I'm not worried that they mixed up hot and neutral, but one of my completely uneducated guesses is they mixed the two neutrals (plugged the washing machine neutral into the dryer breaker, and the dryer neutral into the washer breaker). Longer story on the whole thing (I've maybe posted this in bits and pieces but not all at once). I called a company to get a knob & tube inspection, they sent an electrician (I'm calling him "my" electrician for the rest of this story), he found knob & tube out the wazoo, gave me a quote for replacing all that. I also got a quote for a panel replacement and service upgrade (because I needed that). That company has someone that just does knob & tube replacements, but my electrician was hoping to be there with the knob & tube crew to learn about how they do that, because he'd recently started with this company and moved closer to the core of the metro where there's more knob & tube than where he was before. We waited on scheduling for the knob & tube crew (they're scheduled maybe a month or so out). Then that Saturday I get a call from my electrician, the knob & tube crew had a cancelation, can they start on Monday. The alternative is a month and a half later, so we go ahead. Unfortunately, my electrician was already booked that week so he wouldn't be with them doing the work. At the time I thought that was a bummer just because he wouldn't be able to learn from the experts. There were a few things I discussed with my electrician that I'd like done since they'd already be in some of these places mucking around. I wanted fan-rated boxes in all the rooms upstairs, and for the wiring from the switch to the ceiling boxes to support separate switching of the fan and light, so we'd be future-proofed. My electrician was able to pop in a few times in the morning to check on things, but he was never there long enough to really see what was going on. The panel and service upgrade got scheduled for a few weeks later, so we actually had that last week. That was two people, my electrician, and then an apprentice (who is just a few hours away from journeyman, apparently). My electrician spent the first day outside doing the service upgrade, the apprentice was inside swapping the panel. The second day was my electrician replacing my garage subpanel (an ooooold fuse box) and another journeyman helping out (fixing a few other things in the garage). He decided that the easiest way to rewire one particular light was to put in a Caseta and remote, so he ordered those (doesn't carry them on the truck) and said he'd be back on Tuesday (2 days ago) to quickly pop them in. This work was all permitted and inspected, and we got the necessary stickers on the panels. But the inspector didn't actually dig into much, I think he talked with my electrician and got the vibe that everything was going to be done very well and he didn't dig into anything too deeply. Last weekend I set out on two separate electrical tasks - hardwire my new bathroom fan, and install a ceiling fan in my office upstairs. I couldn't make heads or tails of where to tie-in for the bathroom fan, which resulted in this picture posted earlier. Putting in the ceiling fan resulted in me discovering this wiring as well. Over the various times that he was here, we did some talking and I learned a fair amount about him and how he thinks and how he works, and he's kind of a perfectionist. He knows code backwards and forwards, and wants everything done to an exceedingly high standard. He's actually taken on a bit more responsibility in the company, to try and do some training of the other electricians to try and raise the quality of their work. I think if he ever decides to become a master electrician, he's going to be able to form his own company and they'll do amazing work (not sure if it's the same everywhere, but in Minnesota a journeyman has to work under a master electrician, a master electrician can own and run their own company). He also told me as we were working in the attic that he's talked to the office, and he's told them he's never going to let this happen again where he's not around to supervise a job of his, because if he'd been around he would have been making sure things were done right the first time. So when he got here on Tuesday (with another greener apprentice), I wanted him to see if he could figure out where I could tap in to power my attic fan, and I also wanted him to know about how the light switches were wired and not all the boxes were replaced (the one in my office was already bolted to the bottom of the joist, but in another room, it was just a cheap Carlton New Work ceiling box nailed to the joist). And he was not happy. He explicitly put on the work order "replace all ceiling boxes with fan rated boxes" and gave them some 14-2-2 wire to wire up all the switches with, so there'd be plenty of conductors. And none of that was done. Instead of using the 14-2-2 wire to wire up switches and allow 2 switch loops and still leave a neutral in the box, they just put in the 14-3, ran switch loops over the black and white, and left the red capped off in both ends.. And they didn't replace any of the upstairs ceiling boxes (and it was easy, they had attic access right above). When he looked into that jam-packed junction box, he found that it was jam-packed (obviously) but also there were some old unused wires that were never pulled out. So he put in a box extension, figured out what all the wires were in there, labeled them, and pulled out the old wire (leaving one as a pull cord if we ever needed it). He also just straight up installed my new bath fan for me (with a little help from me since I understood how it needed to be wired). And the apprentice rewired the other two upstairs room so the switch loops were on the red and black and the neutral was properly brought to the box. And verified that one box was already capable of holding a fan, and replaced the other one. He said it was supposed to be a half-hour job but it turned into a four-hour job because the original crew couldn't really even follow instructions. Oh yeah and the labels in the panel were all over the place, because the apprentice who replaced the panel just used what was there before, and the knob & tube crew hadn't done a great job of labeling what they did. So the Tuesday apprentice also went around tripping all the outlets to figure out which circuits they were on so things could be properly labeled. He'd also made sure the knob & tube crew had enough outlets and switches to replace everything in the house, even if they didn't need to be rewired. Every outlet on the ground floor had updated wiring because it was easy to tap in from the basement in 1965 when the knob & tube service was originally upgraded, so they didn't need to be rewired, but the outlets were all older and my electrician wanted everything replaced. So he did at least leave me a 10 pack of outlets to replace what was left, as a gesture of goodwill (and he knew from our talking that I'd enjoy doing that myself anyway). Back to these two outlets. My electrician wasn't able to get them to trip with his GFCI tester either. They're very old, quite possibly original from the 1965 upgrade, and showed some water damage from being so close to the laundry sink. I said I was going to replace them, probably with some WR outlets since that's a "damp" location anyway. So we figured they weren't tripping because of that. From opening up the boxes, it looks like the knob & tube crew did go into those boxes and re-pull some of the wire, but left some of the 1965 wiring as well because it was in good enough condition. So I don't think my electrician ever looked in the boxes explicitly, and may have just assumed they did things in a certain way (like pulling a dedicated ground wire through the conduit?). So I'm trying to figure out what could/should have been done here. If it's a relatively simple fix I can just do it myself. If it's a harder fix or merits some investigation, I'll talk to my electrician and he'll come back and make it right.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:52
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Motronic posted:It's required by code to protect the wire between the utility room and panel in the unit. If there wasn't a breaker that run could be potentially exposed to very high fault current (like right form the pole, depending on how things are set up). The NEC requires protection on those runs when they are more than a certain distance......which I think i remember being only a few feet. Potentially any distance at all in multi-unit resi. Would code allow a breaker in the electrical room and no "main" breaker in the apartment unit itself?
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Aug 19, 2021 18:57
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cruft posted:Would code allow a breaker in the electrical room and no "main" breaker in the apartment unit itself? No, you would need a cutoff on both.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:34
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cruft posted:Would code allow a breaker in the electrical room and no "main" breaker in the apartment unit itself? 230.72(C) says each occupant shall have access to the occupants service disconnecting means 240.24(B) also states that each occupant shall have ready access to all overcurrent devices protecting conductors supplying that occupancy the exception to these being if building maintenance provides continuous supervision.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:35
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Rufio posted:230.72(C) says each occupant shall have access to the occupants service disconnecting means I forget the code section, but "six or less throws" may still be a thing, meaning if you have 6 or fewer breakers in the panel it may not need a main service disconnect. Almost an irrelevant exception irrelevant in modern times.....
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Aug 19, 2021 19:56
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Rufio posted:230.72(C) says each occupant shall have access to the occupants service disconnecting means So I suspect my building doesn't 100% comply with modern code, since these overcurrent devices are located in a locked electrical room and we do not have 24 hour personnel on site. It sucks only the board members get access to the key, but I'm not going to be a Karen and push the issue, just hope that 100A breaker doesn't trip again. Some pretty beefy equipment in that room since it is a midrise with lots of units.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:01
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Inner Light posted:So I suspect my building doesn't 100% comply with modern code, since these overcurrent devices are located in a locked electrical room and we do not have 24 hour personnel on site. Which mean you need a main breaker in your unit, which you have......... There is nothing wrong with the setup.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:03
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Motronic posted:Which mean you need a main breaker in your unit, which you have......... No, I know. The issue I was mentioning is there are 2 100A breakers, one in my panel and one in the utility room. If the utility room one trips, my panel one does no good and I won't have power. The possible 'something wrong' was that I, the occupant, do not have 'ready access' to the utility room breaker.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:04
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Inner Light posted:The possible 'something wrong' was that I, the occupant, do not have 'ready access' to the utility room breaker. That is not an electrical code issue because you have a main breaker in your unit.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:07
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Ready access is not for you to turn it on, but to turn it off. You have ready access to turn off your power. Building maintenance also has ready access to turn off the power.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:08
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