|
Eh I pulled the trigger on it anyway since I had the money sitting around from my Melzi board refund. I'm still probably going to get an MP10 as my new main printer and use the Maker Select v2 as a tinkering machine if I'm able to get that kit/the new melzi board in there. If I get it running with the RAMPS kit and the new Melzi board looks okay I'm definitely going to design and build my own stupid toy printer with it. Also I really still want a MP Delta Mini but even at that ridiculous price I can't justify something with a build volume that tiny, no matter how ridiculously cute it is.
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 18:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 17:03 |
|
|
food court bailiff posted:double-e: wow, people really seem to hate Melzi boards overall, huh? Basically everything recent I'm finding is saying to just swap boards entirely. Melzi boards are at this point pretty old and commonly featured on bargain basement machines that have a reputation for being either A) Unreliable B) Terrible C) Fire Hazards or D) All of the Above. They're also not very extensible as far as pin outs go, so adding quality of life things is problematic, and the memory that's available on the board isn't enough for many firmware features that are considered standard now a days. Don't get me wrong, the Duplicator i3 / MakerSelect V1 were pretty cool poo poo when they came out, and to the credit of the guys selling them they've done some design iteration from v1, v1.5 and v2 that improved things immensely. At the end of the day, though, it's still a Melzi and you'll have much more to work with on RAMPS. On a side note, I finally got my own Melzi / MakerSelect v1 working with an auto bed leveling probe without having to run more wires from the box. Yay! Now I can see how warped my bed is, even with a glass plate. Okay, maybe not so Yay! 
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 20:30
|
|
|
I have a knockoff Creality CR-10S and I'd like to use it to write handwritten notes automatically. I figure I can print out a pen mount that replaces my print head. Has anyone seen a project like this that'd make it so I'm not duplicating effort? I swear I have but a quick google didn't turn anything up. EDIT: I just discovered XY plotters ...anyone have experience with an XY plotter? The use case is I want to mass product handwritten notes for sales. Basically a marketing email I can send in the mail to look folksy. Need to write about 30 letters per day, each customized. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Apr 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 21:07
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:I have a knockoff Creality CR-10S and I'd like to use it to write handwritten notes automatically. I figure I can print out a pen mount that replaces my print head. Search Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349232
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 21:10
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:I'm thinking between the hardware cost and the value of time spend doing it (at least, the value of my time, which is now about $30/hour base pay) its less headache to get a new Monoprice machine. Just be prepared to replace the Bowden connector on the extender pretty much immediately (or stick a clamp on it to keep it from moving so much). The MP10 is pretty nice but I wish they had better instructions about how to autolevel with it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 21:34
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:I have a knockoff Creality CR-10S and I'd like to use it to write handwritten notes automatically. I figure I can print out a pen mount that replaces my print head. I played around with this for a bit. An older version of Cura allows you to use some weird setting to import images as an object. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXb9NDqn1Mo Here's the pen mount I used on my cr10s: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3139205 A fun experiment. Have to get your printer to z hop or whatever, so it doesn't leave pen marks all over as it travels.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 22:29
|
|
|
Ceive posted:I played around with this for a bit. An older version of Cura allows you to use some weird setting to import images as an object. Every version of Cura lets you do this, and the "weird setting" is File -> Open. It'll import JPG, PNG, and BMP files natively. (e) I re-read this after waking up this morning, and sorry if it sounds like I was trying to be a dick. I really wasn't! Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Apr 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2019 02:12
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Every version of Cura lets you do this, and the "weird setting" is File -> Open. It'll import JPG, PNG, and BMP files natively. Junk mail recipients hate this one weird trick!
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2019 18:21
|
|
|
Stupid (but hopefully very quick) question- I've got a multimeter that I'm not very familiar with and nothing but time, how can I (safely, obviously) check that my PSU is still functional? I'm thinking I might need to order a new one. e: it looks like my R10 resistor blew on the Melzi board, that's why I'm suspicious that something went funky with it - it's a 10K resistor in line with the power, as far as I can tell. Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Apr 19, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2019 23:50
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Every version of Cura lets you do this, and the "weird setting" is File -> Open. It'll import JPG, PNG, and BMP files natively. lol before the clarification this was an ABSOLUTELY BARBARIC
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2019 04:54
|
|
|
Ambihelical Hexnut posted:lol before the clarification this was an ABSOLUTELY BARBARIC I have been deeply shamed, and must restore my honor. What layer height is needed to print Japanese_steel.stl? Ceive fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Apr 19, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2019 08:30
|
|
|
.000000000001, of course.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2019 08:46
|
|
|
Actually since I chopped up that Warframe figure, I've gotten back into printing things. I replaced the bowden tube, bought a printing bed, a bunch of nozzles, an aluminum extruder, and a bed leveling gauge. Still messing with it, but having fun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5AcjJ9t9ig
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2019 09:03
|
|
|
I was given most of an Afinia h479-002 and I bought most of the parts that were missing but only today realized that I hadn't thought about the print bed or gantry plate. Can I just get an aluminum plate and some spacers for this? I was thinking of getting a full plate heater. Do I have to worry about thermistor resistance? Would I put that under the gantry plate (sandwich it between 2 plates (with a cut out for the protruding area, of course)?)? EDIT: Its going to be the little pieces that kill me on this. Doesn't help that I am getting parts that kinda should work instead of the actual replacement parts, but the replacement parts are much improved over the original parts. Even though I have so little invested in this printer, I wonder how long I am going to put up with it before I say gently caress it and order an assembled Prusa MK3S and MMU2S Also, Humble Bundle has a Humble 3D printable dungeons & cities bundle for 5e fantasy bundle. Fire Storm fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Apr 20, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2019 21:32
|
|
|
My Mk3S is being a dick. Spool got stuck and couldn't feed, now the extruder is doing this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGpJZeeZmtY Jam? Stripped Bondtech gear?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 23:26
|
|
|
Can you manually push filament through? It almost sounds like a jam in the video
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 23:34
|
|
|
I didn't find a CNC router thread, and thought this thread was close -- I'm looking at a 1000x1000 X-Carve CNC Router. Full 2018 setup with some further upgrades. Does anyone have any experience with these? Is it a good jumping off point for a CNC router?
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 00:15
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Just crank the temp and push filament in?
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 00:15
|
|
|
Fire Storm posted:I was given most of an Afinia h479-002 and I bought most of the parts that were missing but only today realized that I hadn't thought about the print bed or gantry plate. I would maybe get in touch with https://profound3d.com who were formaly known as Octave and see if they still have some parts kicking around.. The Afinia H479 was my main 3D printer for several years, and although it has some proprietary nonsense (no printing with supports turned off, no vase mode, no manual temperature adjustment, no 3rd party software) it was a very reliable workhorse for me. (and really shined with ABS+ material) Anyway, Octave was big into Afinia accessories, including enclosures with HEPA filters, and this little doohicky that you can attach to the extuder so that you have more temperature choices than 210 C or 270 C   That being said, if it's going to cost you $200 to fix it up I would put that towards an i3 MK3S instead..
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 00:28
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I didn't find a CNC router thread, and thought this thread was close -- There's a somewhat seldom-traveled CNC thread here, it's on the second page right now. I have the original 2015 1000x1000 X-Carve with some minor upgrades, and even that version is a really nice rig. I've made a ton of cool stuff with it. Unfortunately I also haven't used it in about a year due to currently not having any space for it, but I'm itching for the day I can set it back up. If you're really in the market for a machine there are definitely far worse ways to spend your money.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 00:50
|
|
|
duffmensch posted:Can you manually push filament through? It almost sounds like a jam in the video Good call, I'm new to all this stuff so I wasn't sure what I was dealing with. Had to do two cold pulls and adjust the idler tendon but it seems to be running now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 01:49
|
|
|
TKIY posted:Good call, I'm new to all this stuff so I wasn't sure what I was dealing with. Check the grub screw on the bondtech gear for the extruder motor as well. I don't know how but it seems like that thing manages to get loose every time I have a feed related problem.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 02:06
|
|
|
NeurosisHead posted:Check the grub screw on the bondtech gear for the extruder motor as well. I don't know how but it seems like that thing manages to get loose every time I have a feed related problem. Seems like it's okay but I'll check it after this next print job. I think I had the idler way way overtightened before.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
Is there anyone else here that has an MP10? The instructions seem to be super short and the offset value never changes when I run the leveler (and just use my feeler gauges to do it manually).
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 03:16
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I didn't find a CNC router thread, and thought this thread was close -- I have a Shapeoko 3 xxl, which is kind of its successor. Once I got it sorted it became a very reliable machine within its limits. I've done a lot of sign work that is posted in the cnc thread with it. In 3d printing I think I have about 15 nights of printing (divided by 3 printers, so a week) left to finish the spyker kat. I have 2 enders and a cr10 running now which is great for volume but they are sloooow. Once I get this one working I'll put my enclosures together and look at whether I move to ABS or not for the 2x model. I may also need ot seek a higher volume hot end like a volcano or supervolcano. I've only used a volcano once and kept having plastic seep out of the wrong places, so there's clearly more mechanic setup to learn. Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Apr 21, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 03:50
|
|
|
duffmensch posted:Is there anyone else here that has an MP10? The instructions seem to be super short and the offset value never changes when I run the leveler (and just use my feeler gauges to do it manually). I'll have the "MK1 Pro" sometime this week, which should be interesting for comparison.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 23:12
|
|
|
I built a Lack enclosure for my ender 3, and I'm going to mount the power supply on the bottom, outside the enclosure. I can probably make it work with the existing xt60 cord, but I'm thinking I'll add a short extension to make passing the wiring through a hole in the bottom easier. Is there any issue with that plan? Basically I'd buy a 12 or 14g 100mm xt60 extension cable off amazon. Ultimately I'd like to bring the rest of the electronics out as well, but I'll have to track down what the other connectors are and solder up some custom extensions for them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2019 02:18
|
|
|
I'm having the same issue planning out my lack enclosure. Ideally I want to put the PSU, MKS Gen L mainboard, Raspi, and the LCD screen into one box with a couple beefy fans in a push-pull arrangement and mount this on the outside of the enclosure. I was told to use 10AWG silicone wire for XT60 extensions and Y splitters. That said, anyone know the temp limits of a raspi NOIR camera and how it should be mounted with a lack enclosure for monitoring prints? I'm thinking a small box on the rear panel with venting for the heatsinks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2019 02:33
|
|
|
Assembly mostly complete yesterday evening. Dollar bill for scale reference. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2019 13:55
|
|
|
Has anyone used Smooth-On's XTC-3D on their prints? I've got some on order and I'm curious what people's experience with it is before I try it out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2019 16:43
|
|
|
It's just self-leveling epoxy. It works okay but it changes the part dimensions and covers the finest details.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2019 16:47
|
|
|
More thin coats is better than few thick coats.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2019 18:05
|
|
|
I was having a devil of a time with some STL files that wouldn't cooperate, and repair tools only got me so far. I'd repair it successfully in one tool only to have it muck up elsewhere, you know the drill. Ugh I went on so many wild goose chases. I sprang for Netfabb paid and hoo nelly the paid tool really sings. The only problem is it's a monthly subscription and I can't justify it for only very occasional use. Maybe I'll open a fiverr account for a repairing lovely models service and see if it can at least pay for itself  e: that's probably against the EULA 
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Apr 24, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 06:38
|
|
|
duffmensch posted:Is there anyone else here that has an MP10? The instructions seem to be super short and the offset value never changes when I run the leveler (and just use my feeler gauges to do it manually). Is your starting Gcode calling up the bed leveling data? The code is M420 S1, but it needs to be immediately after your G28 (if you aren't running G29 every program) or after your G29 if you are using it every program. Ideally, the starting Gcode should be (Bed heating code, with wait until temp reached before proceeding) G28 M420 S1 G0 Z10 (to get the nozzle away from the bed) (Nozzle heatup code here that waits until stable before continuing) (Code to prime nozzle and move to start here) (Remainder of program) And the Program to run & store the bed sampling would be G28 G29 M500 M502 Or you could take the mystery out with G28 G29 M500 M502 M420 S1 And use your slicer's settings to apply an offset and adjust the first layer position (this worked for me yesterday)
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 16:46
|
|
|
Prusa doing their own Thingiverse type of site, huh? The promo video says for Original Prusa Owners. I wonder if they're going to enforce that, or whether it'll be open for anyone.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 23:17
|
|
|
Hope it'll be open because lord knows it can't be hard to outdo Thingiverse (don't get me wrong, Thingiverse plays an important role but they could do much better and don't) What's interesting is I read something about sharing things like g-code so people with the same hardware can (in theory) just download a car in the truest sense. Doable when everyone has the same and known platform. Maybe that's the "for Prusa owners" part.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 23:26
|
|
|
The related blog post says that:quote:Yep, you got that right: this isn’t yet another online library with 3D models! Also, PrusaPrinters is dedicated to Original Prusa users (but not limited to them, of course). So open I guess.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 23:30
|
|
|
Printing user contributed GCODE downloaded from the internet must be the 3d printing equivalent of "curl http://example.com/some_script.sh | sudo bash". What could possibly go wrong? 🙄 And putting all customers into zip code clusters on a map? Uncool. Very very uncool. And possibly dangerous for some people out there in rural areas or places with very small zip code areas.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2019 23:58
|
|
|
I'm sure I long deeply for community, which is why my life has been guided into the direction of sitting in a basement with 3D printers 
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 00:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 17:03 |
|
|
foosel posted:Printing user contributed GCODE downloaded from the internet must be the 3d printing equivalent of "curl http://example.com/some_script.sh | sudo bash".
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2019 00:36
|
|