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I'm thinking a small piece of plexiglass from homedepot or lowes and some silicone
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Jan 27, 2016 14:27
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I'm thinking a small piece of plexiglass from homedepot or lowes and some silicone Plexiglass can be expensive in large sheets; IMO get a sheet of 3/8" plywood, paint it (to protect it from moisture), then caulk it up.
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Jan 27, 2016 16:25
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Just don't lean there again.
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Jan 27, 2016 17:56
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Don't shower, it's only 9 months.
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Jan 27, 2016 18:19
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I did that when I was a teenager - got a little  -happy and broke through the shower wall. Hard to explain to mom.
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 18:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:I did that when I was a teenager - got a little HULK WANK! 
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Jan 27, 2016 23:55
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Switch to baths.
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Jan 28, 2016 00:09
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Cakefool posted:Just don't lean there again.
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Jan 28, 2016 02:41
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Flex Seal
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Jan 28, 2016 02:56
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Get a caulking tube of roofing silicone with a sheet of plastic visqueen. Make a continous bead from side to top to side again and put that thick plastic sheet over the area. Shouldn't cost more than $15. I've seen that done with car door waterproofing.
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Jan 28, 2016 09:10
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Get a spring-loaded shower curtain bar + plastic curtain and put it up on that wall. Draw that across when you're taking a shower, voila. Take it with you when you leave/the house crumbles underneath you.
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Jan 28, 2016 14:30
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ShadowHawk posted:<snip> What's the most sensible thing to do?  Honestly though I do know an individual who started remodeling their shower years ago, they removed all the tile above the tub line, and then hung a shower curtain over the exposed studs. Supposedly it stays pretty dry since the shower curtain is attached at the top and the water rolls down the shower curtain and into the tub. Even after many years (probably a decade) the shower in question with just a shower curtain draped over the studs hasn't shown (visible) signs of mold. I remember looking at it a year or two ago last time I was in there area and all the visible studs still appeared normal. What I mean to say is for 9 months and a wall you plan to tear down, I would totally half rear end it. If you really wanted to get sophisticated maybe use some caulk around the edges, but based on what I've seen that is not absolutely necessary.
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Jan 28, 2016 15:01
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The weird addition to our upstairs bathroom got some water damage before the flat roof was replaced. I plan on gutting and remodeling it in a year or less. In the mean time I want to use it as a closet. Am I ok to leave it alone for now?
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Jan 28, 2016 15:52
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As long as it's dry and the leak is fixed, it'll be stable. My living room ceiling is like this right now!
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Jan 28, 2016 16:11
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My basement has these heat vents in the ceiling: The dampers were stuck closed. The pushrods that are supposed to open them don't catch on the vent holes. Right now I have the dampers jammed open, stuck against those screw holes. The duct is 5" and the screws are 4.5" apart. Can I get a dampered diffuser to replace the vent cover without cutting into the ceiling? The round vents I see online only go down to 6". If not, I'll have to figure out a way to fix the pushrods.
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Jan 29, 2016 20:00
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-5-in-Round-White-Plastic-Adjustable-Diffuser-EX-DFRP-05/202907338
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Jan 29, 2016 20:04
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Zhentar posted:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-5-in-Round-White-Plastic-Adjustable-Diffuser-EX-DFRP-05/202907338
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Jan 29, 2016 20:07
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I have a Samsung RF266AEWP combination fridge/freezer (French door fridge on top, freezer beneath). I came home tonight and it's making a sound that I'm fairly certain I haven't heard before; sounds like an electric motor working somewhat hard. The noise stops if I open the doors, and honestly it sounds kind of like something spinning with resistance, like if there was a fan with an uneven bearing or something -- when it stops I can hear it "spin down" kind of chunkily. As far as I can tell the doors (both top and bottom) are sealing correctly. Nothing obviously wrong on the status panel; temperatures are still at what I set them to, though if there is a problem with the fridge maintaining temperature, it's possible it's not evident yet. Can't be the ice maker as I never hooked up a water line. The manual (PDF link) doesn't have much to help in its Troubleshooting section as far as I can tell. EDIT: noise doesn't stop if I open the freezer door, just if I open either fridge door. Wild guess: a heat pump or fan has a bad seal or bearing? I have no idea how I'd go about testing that hypothesis though. Any advice? This fridge is only four years old. EDIT 2: EDIT 4: okay, discovered that there's ice buildup in the back of the fridge. I'm guessing that's the problem, and I'm also guessing that the fix is to turn the entire thing off and let the fridge warm up and melt the ice. Hooray, guess I'm going shopping for coolers. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 07:12
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This seems like the best place for this question. It is probably a really dumb question because I don't know what I'm doing. I bought a table saw to cut some boards for my photography. The dimensions on the boards need to be exact to match the prints I am putting on them. My boards have not been coming out of the saw cut to the exact length I had set, but slightly shorter. For example, I just tried to cut a 24" board. I set the saw for 24", put a 24" inch ruler between the saw blade and the guide to be sure I wasn't going to cut less than 24", then cut the board. It came out 23 7/8". Is it possible the blade is wobbling or something? Why am I not getting the exact cut I have set it for?
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Jan 31, 2016 04:23
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InternetJunky posted:This seems like the best place for this question. It is probably a really dumb question because I don't know what I'm doing. You'll probably get more helpful answers in the woodworking megathread, but blade wobble is a possibility. In general you should make certain that all of the parts of the tool are properly calibrated; your manual should have information on how to do this. More generally, cut using a piece of scrap wood, observe the cut length, adjust until you get what you want. Cut oversize instead of trying to cut exactly to what you want; you can always trim more off to make it smaller, but you can't reassemble the sawdust back onto the board to make it larger.
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Jan 31, 2016 04:27
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Also make sure you're measuring from the right part of the blade. Blades are usually widest at the tip, so if you're measuring from the center the kerf isn't going to be quite where you expect.
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Jan 31, 2016 04:55
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^^^ That stuff. Measure from the edge of the tooth to the fence at the front AND back of the blade where it goes into the table.
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Jan 31, 2016 05:24
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InternetJunky posted:This seems like the best place for this question. It is probably a really dumb question because I don't know what I'm doing. You forgot to take into account the kerf, or the width of the blade (usually 1/8"). When making your mark, draw an arrow pointing away from the side of the piece you're cutting, and cut on the that side of the line so you don't take out the line. For instance, say you're cutting a board into three 2" pieces. Your first mark should be at 2", the second mark at 4 1/8", the third at 6 2/8". Cut to the left of the line and each piece will be 2". Also drawing an x on the last scrap piece helps keep you aligned during cutting. Hope this helps! E: It helps to double check your cut by putting it up to the blade while the saw is off to double check your work. Also, it's common for cheap table saws to have crappy fences that need aligned or adjusted. Also be sure to use push sticks where your hands are near the blade, never let your hands get within 3" of a blade, never wear gloves, and stand to the side of your cuts in case of kickbacks. This is an excellent video of a guy who almost lost his fingers trying to demonstrate kickbacks. Table saws are great tools, but the most common one people get injured on, so remember to be careful, wear your safety squints and have fun! Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 13:03
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My girlfriend's apartment only has one window in the back corner of the kitchen, and I think the lack of lighting is affecting her physically. So, long story short, I'm looking at making her a fake window for her bedroom. Essentially what I'm doing is just hanging curtains and placing LED lights behind them to give the illusion of light through a window. At first, I wanted to go with a sunrise simulator, like the LightenUp to give a gradual ramping up of brightness in the mornings, but it basically only supports a single incandescent bulb. My options are to put some LED strands behind the curtain and put those on a wifi enabled timer, or find some way to get the LightenUp adapter to work with some dimmable, low-temp, incandescent strand lights, which seems unlikely for now since I don't even know where to find them. My question, then: Has anyone else who lives in a dumb cave or suffers from SAD done anything like this? Any suggestions or ideas of how to go through with this?
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Feb 1, 2016 22:12
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I think they make special bulbs for SADD
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Feb 1, 2016 22:34
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larchesdanrew posted:My girlfriend's apartment only has one window in the back corner of the kitchen, and I think the lack of lighting is affecting her physically. So, long story short, I'm looking at making her a fake window for her bedroom. Essentially what I'm doing is just hanging curtains and placing LED lights behind them to give the illusion of light through a window. If you're willing to learn some Arduino, you can make this with LED strips. There was recently some discussion in the electronics thread about making a simple lamp, but you could easily adapt it to your fake window. Parts Kit posted:I'd like to make a simple digital alarm clock that controls and adjusts a rgb led based lamp. What would be a good place to look for info on approaching this? n0tqu1tesane posted:https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=arduino+sunrise+alarm+clock&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
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Feb 1, 2016 23:02
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I have no actual research to back this up, but it's my understanding that people suffering from SAD should try to get "full-spectrum" light sources, which better mimic sunlight than your average LED or fluorescent bulb does.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:14
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There are people making sunrise/sunset/weather simulations for aquariums or terrariums, I suppose there's a lot that can be learned from them.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:39
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larchesdanrew posted:My question, then: Has anyone else who lives in a dumb cave or suffers from SAD done anything like this? Any suggestions or ideas of how to go through with this? If you're willing to put a little bit of effort into soldering and learning about arduino stuff, you should check out Adafruit Neopixels. Basically they're self contained, full spectrum, fully controllable leds available in any configuration you want, with the emphasis being on easy to learn with tons of videos, tutorials, and pre made code. You could really do a super cool window emulating sunrise, nighttime, the stars by wiring a few of them together to an adafruit flora arduino. From there, you plug it into a computer, tweak a few lines of code, and push it out to the flora, which then controls the leds. It's seriously some pretty cool (and easy!) stuff. Adafruit really puts an emphasis on just having everything work and be easy to understand, so you can spend more time designing cool stuff and making it happen. Doesn't help you with the full spectrum bulb, they make special stuff for that. Personally, getting out and cycling to work really helped me out, just getting that daily exercise. Joining a local rec center might help out tremendously too--chances are they have a hot tub, which is just happiness incarnate for battling cold dreary winter SADD and a great excuse to motivate yourself to go!
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Feb 2, 2016 00:45
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If you want to realistically simulate the natural light from a 4 square foot window, you need 10,000-40,000 lumens of 5800K, 90+ CRI lighting. Experimentally, the color temperature and CRI doesn't matter for SAD treatment, at least as long as you are sitting within a couple feet of that very bright light for 15-30 minutes, but it's not at all going to feel like a window. Of those three, the CRI is the first I would relax on; 80+ CRI will still be fairly good. A string of 100 mini incandescent Christmas lights will get you 100CRI, but somewhere around 2800K and less than 500 lumens. You would need 20 (or likely more) strings to get it bright enough, it would still look very off, and the heat would probably melt the strings. The cheapest Adafruit NeoPixel option, the 144 RGB strip, is about 1,000 lumens (The RGBW is probably brighter, but I can't find a spec for it). I think it can get into the upper 80s, maybe even hit 90 CRI at 5800K, if you balance the R/G/B right, although reds will be undersaturated (the red emitter isn't deep enough). If you get it programmed right, it could do a pretty awesome sunrise/sunset simulation, but for daylight, you'd need 10+ $60 strips. Something like this strip light gets you 7,500 93 CRI lumens for "just" $260. Or if you back down the CRI into the 80s, This gets you close to 15,000 lumens for $300. But I think this guy has the best approach, using 100W, 10,000 lumen bulbs (although the 10,000 lumens is probably exaggerated, I would guess it's more like 7,500 - 200W flourescent grow lights might work better). Dimming it would be a bit of a challenge, though...
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Feb 2, 2016 03:11
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For a long time I just had a 60w bulb in a programmable dimmer simulating "sunrise" to help me wake up and even that made a huge difference. You don't need full sun brightness to help out with SAD or making it easier to wake up in the morning.
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Feb 2, 2016 05:55
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Yeah, at this point I'm not looking to simulate actual sunlight for chemical reasons, but just trying to give her the illusion of having a window in her bedroom to help her get up in the mornings. She moved into her apartment about six months ago and a few months ago she just started sleeping for 12+ hours a night and is always tired and ill. I think if I could just make it sort of look like she has a window above her bed for a while, it should help tremendously. My budget is a little constrained, but the neopixel thing looks awesome. Right now I've just got a lot of LED strips and a timer. I work for a gifted school with an insanely talented robotics club, so I might go see if they can help me program an arduino board to simulate sunrise with the LEDs.
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Feb 2, 2016 16:53
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n0tqu1tesane posted:For a long time I just had a 60w bulb in a programmable dimmer simulating "sunrise" to help me wake up and even that made a huge difference. I'll second this. Waking up to gradually increasing light levels is one hell of a lot more pleasant than waking up to a dark room with an alarm clock screaming in your ear. Still keep the alarm clock as a backup though. But for me it goes off when I'm barely asleep anyway, so it's not nearly as painful a transition.
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Feb 2, 2016 17:25
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larchesdanrew posted:Yeah, at this point I'm not looking to simulate actual sunlight for chemical reasons, but just trying to give her the illusion of having a window in her bedroom to help her get up in the mornings. She moved into her apartment about six months ago and a few months ago she just started sleeping for 12+ hours a night and is always tired and ill. I think if I could just make it sort of look like she has a window above her bed for a while, it should help tremendously. I thought this looked pretty neat and I'd make one if I ever came across 4 matching panels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2KK4YiOO1o
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Feb 2, 2016 18:20
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larchesdanrew posted:sleeping for 12+ hours a night and is always tired and ill Dude, this is doctor territory, not loving-around-with-LEDs territory.
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Feb 2, 2016 18:23
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slap me silly posted:Dude, this is doctor territory, not loving-around-with-LEDs territory. Yeah for real, I do this poo poo and it's because I have badly controlled thyroid disease. Make a light if you want, but she needs to see a professional about this.
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Feb 2, 2016 18:44
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Thanks all for the responses about my table saw question.OSU_Matthew posted:E: It helps to double check your cut by putting it up to the blade while the saw is off to double check your work. Also, it's common for cheap table saws to have crappy fences that need aligned or adjusted.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:01
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slap me silly posted:Dude, this is doctor territory, not loving-around-with-LEDs territory. NancyPants posted:Yeah for real, I do this poo poo and it's because I have badly controlled thyroid disease. Make a light if you want, but she needs to see a professional about this. Oh, don't get me wrong. We're getting her professional help. I'm just trying to make her room less lovely in the meantime.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:08
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I thought this looked pretty neat and I'd make one if I ever came across 4 matching panels: you can also just buy panels if you didn't want to hack the laptops. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Led-...2240443745.html
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Feb 2, 2016 20:12
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Qwijib0 posted:you can also just buy panels if you didn't want to hack the laptops. I was all excited about the $18 pricetag and then noticed the shipping 
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Feb 2, 2016 20:22
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