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It's a fresh kit 
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Jul 9, 2015 03:35
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I just finished a second batch of the same film. Still dark but came out a little better than the first - will know for sure once it dries a bit. I have a suspicion the blix was too warm the first time around, now that I think about it. Would that affect anything?
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Jul 9, 2015 04:22
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Also expired film is a waste of time, unless you are really into lomography and unpredictable results.
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Jul 9, 2015 04:35
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Flying next week and bringing my MF camera. Do I need to be aware of anything if I'm just throwing a few boxes of Portra 400 in my carry-on?
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Jul 9, 2015 04:46
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BANME.sh posted:I just finished a second batch of the same film. Still dark but came out a little better than the first - will know for sure once it dries a bit. I have a suspicion the blix was too warm the first time around, now that I think about it. Would that affect anything? Are you doing enough agitation? The dev is step is the most temperature sensitive, blix has a bit more leeway (+2 or 3 C if I remember rightly). Which kit are you using?
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Jul 9, 2015 06:15
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I'm doing the rotary agitation every 30 seconds for 10 seconds, rather than inversions. Using the Tetenal powder press kit from B&H
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Jul 9, 2015 07:30
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I use the same kit when I DIY C41 process and I always do inversions (4 every 30s), I've never trusted rotary agitation. Just make sure you're over a sink and are wearing some gloves, as the Blix will want to leak out and it also out-gasses a bit when inverting, so you'll want to let the gas out after each set of inversions. You just need to lift a corner of the lid to release the pressure, and you may need to do it after only a couple of inversions if you haven't mixed the chemicals thoroughly enough. My bet is that inversions will solve the problem.
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Jul 9, 2015 09:34
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deaders posted:Also expired film is a waste of time, unless you are really into lomography and unpredictable results. Not if it was stored properly. Heat damaged film sucks though, it tends to make the picture unintelligible. I have T64 that's likely older than some posters here and gives me perfectly fine results. The base is nice and dense and the tonal gradation is fine, grain is fine as ever. Thoogsby posted:Flying next week and bringing my MF camera. Do I need to be aware of anything if I'm just throwing a few boxes of Portra 400 in my carry-on? Nope. Carry-on is the way to go for film. You can ask them to hand-check if you're feeling anal, but it shouldn't be necessary unless you have a ton of stops/scans. VomitOnLino fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 09:37
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VomitOnLino posted:Not if it was stored properly. Heat damaged film sucks though, it tends to make the picture unintelligible. That hasn't been my experience. I've been using some Portra 160 recently that expired late 2013 and has always been frozen. The last roll had some frames with numbers showing through from the backing paper and lots of grain.
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Jul 9, 2015 12:26
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Thoogsby posted:Flying next week and bringing my MF camera. Do I need to be aware of anything if I'm just throwing a few boxes of Portra 400 in my carry-on? The x-ray damage is cumulative so if its just the 2 scans, once going and once coming home, it's probably ok. But it's really not a big deal to have them had check them, just take them out of a box and put them in a clear zip-lock bag. They will swab them for explosives and chemicals. I would always hand check them unless I was running super late.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:45
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I don't bother getting any stuff hand checked, and have run Portra 400 through carry-on scanners about a dozen times during a holiday and had no issues with fogging etc. Just don't put it in your checked bags, they bring out the big x-ray gun for those.
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Jul 9, 2015 15:18
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deaders posted:Also expired film is a waste of time, unless you are really into lomography and unpredictable results. I just hate myself, that's why I do it. I've learned that expired portra is super bad, expired nph is not bad at all, expired tmax is v nice if not grainy.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:46
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So I have a 1L patterson tank and am going to develop a 4x5 sheet of acros tonight. How much chemical do I need in it? 500ml? 1L?
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Jul 9, 2015 21:32
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Pukestain Pal posted:So I have a 1L patterson tank and am going to develop a 4x5 sheet of acros tonight. How much chemical do I need in it? 500ml? 1L? 1L.
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Jul 9, 2015 23:00
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 Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickrdrat.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:02
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My Portra came out perfect so it was just lovely expired film. Time to throw it all away or sell it to teens Why do I even bother with 35mm when I can have this  For what it's worth, I did inversions rather than rotary agitation this time. I was also way way more careful with the temperature. I made sure to shake the bottles a bit before measuring the temperature to make sure that the entire bottle was 102F BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 04:56
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Pukestain Pal posted:
I was really enjoying the thought of you taking this pan shot on the Graflex
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Jul 11, 2015 18:01
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aricoarena posted:I was really enjoying the thought of you taking this pan shot on the Graflex it'd be absolutely possible since you can handhold it (which it was actually intended for it). Not sure if I wanna burn the 4x5 trying though. Although, this one was just 1 try.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:21
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Bummer for me: http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2015/07/film-news-fujifilm-raises-pricescuts-film-again/ FujiFilm raises prices by 20% in October. alkanphel fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 02:20
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Ok, so I shot my large format last night. There was an exposure, no light leaks, shutter speeds seem good. Problem? Any tips on focusing? I apparently missed it by a mile. It's probably because I didn't use a focus loupe, which I guess I should get. Anyone have any recommendations? 
vxsarin fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 21:54
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Pukestain Pal posted:Ok, so I shot my large format last night. There was an exposure, no light leaks, shutter speeds seem good. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63453-REG/Wista_211046_5x_Standard_Focusing_Loupe.html
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Jul 12, 2015 23:26
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Developed C-41 for the first time today. Success! Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
vxsarin fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 05:30
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alkanphel posted:Bummer for me: http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2015/07/film-news-fujifilm-raises-pricescuts-film-again/ I though provia 400x was dead already. Maybe not in japan?
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Jul 13, 2015 17:02
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nm posted:I though provia 400x was dead already. Maybe not in japan? Yeah apparently the previous announcement just meant they'd stop selling Provia 400X outside of Japan but now it's going to be killed off even in Japan.
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Jul 14, 2015 03:33
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Is there a favored service for prints among this thread?
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Jul 15, 2015 03:07
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Picked up two rolls of 35mm film on impulse: Ektar 100 and Velvia 50. I've only ever used drug store Fujicolor before. They were a pretty little chunk of cash compared to how much I'd pay for the regular stuff. I'm going to experiment, but is there anything I should know about the particular characteristics of each that would help me put them to better use? I'm going to use them for landscapes, in bright light or with a tripod. And I know they have different development processes. I almost always just scan film, rather than having prints made off the roll.
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Jul 16, 2015 06:28
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Both Ektar 100 and Velvia 50 are very high contrast, low dynamic range. You will want your exposure to be spot on and be very careful about what you place in light and shadow, as it'll be easy to over/under expose either. Both also rather tend to emphasize reds. At least for Ektar 100, it's probably better in shadowed areas rather than direct sun light.
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Jul 16, 2015 06:43
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Overexposure is worse than under exposure with velvia. Velvia is not a portrait film and will not work will with skin colors. It will work best with vivid colors.
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Jul 17, 2015 00:00
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Thanks for the info. I always thought the "Velvia" *~film simulation~* on Fuji digital cameras was contrasty as gently caress so I guess that makes sense.
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Jul 17, 2015 02:35
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Bought a thing at a thrift store   The directions are not at all complicated:  So is there any hope of ever actually taking pictures with this?
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Jul 21, 2015 03:50
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A quick google search suggests you can mod it to use pack film. Polaroid doesn't make it anymore but Fuji does. FP-100c (color, 100 ISO) is still in production but FP-3000b (b&w 3000 ISO) is discontinued, but you can still buy remaining stock.
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Jul 21, 2015 03:55
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I am always obsessing over my workflow and wondering what other people have to deal with. To those of you that scan and process your own color negatives, how do you decide which color shifts are a natural property of the film stock and which are a result of other factors like over/under exposure, an uncalibrated scanner, etc. I developed several rolls of Portra recently and they all seem to have a subtle blue/purple cast in the shadows, even shots that are perfectly exposed and white balanced. I found it really difficult to remove using curves so I found this guide which works really well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09XC9WGTLyc When you adjust the levels for each RGB channel to remove the orange cast, like in the popular negative scanning video, I am always left with a heavily color cast image. Usually overly cyan but it varies. Even with non expired film I get developed at a lab. I correct it with a combination of curves and white balance/tint in lightroom after and it's usually fine but I am wondering if this is a common issue for others. The colors are also almost always somewhat muted. I have to increase the vibrance or saturation a bit to compensate. I wonder if it's my scanner or if this is how everyone deals with it.
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Jul 21, 2015 17:02
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BANME.sh posted:I am always obsessing over my workflow and wondering what other people have to deal with. I use the RGB curves in PS. Once you're in the curves dialog, you can use the eyedropper to see where on the curves an area lies. If there's an area that's too blue, say, I'll go into the curves dialog, choose the blue channel, see where on the blue curve that area lies, and drop the blue curve down a bit just in region of the curve. I'm also not above selectively desaturating certain colors; for example if all of my visible grain is blue in the shadows and none of the rest of the photo is blue, I'll just desaturate a narrow band of blue in the HSL tool.
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Jul 21, 2015 17:14
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Shoot Portra 400 then apply VSCO Portra presets in LR 
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Jul 21, 2015 17:54
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I've got a huge pile of undeveloped film shot at mystery ISOs (label your film well, folks. It'll pay dividends later) from mystery times. I've got some free time coming up and I just ordered a whole bunch of Rodinal. Time to attack that sucker.
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Jul 21, 2015 21:06
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I don't care what is a 'natural' property of the film. Curves get pushed till it looks cool.
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Jul 22, 2015 03:31
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You can end up falling into the horrible infinite loop of trying to get the "correct colour" of film, but you'll just end up a pedant on APUG.
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Jul 22, 2015 05:00
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Pham Nuwen posted:Bought a thing at a thrift store I don't know personally but check out http://landcameras.com/ and https://www.the-impossible-project.com/
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Jul 22, 2015 05:16
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slogula posted:I don't know personally but check out http://landcameras.com/ and https://www.the-impossible-project.com/ No. BANME.sh posted:A quick google search suggests you can mod it to use pack film. Polaroid doesn't make it anymore but Fuji does. FP-100c (color, 100 ISO) is still in production but FP-3000b (b&w 3000 ISO) is discontinued, but you can still buy remaining stock. Yes.
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Jul 22, 2015 05:41
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HPL posted:I've got a huge pile of undeveloped film shot at mystery ISOs (label your film well, folks. It'll pay dividends later) from mystery times. I've got some free time coming up and I just ordered a whole bunch of Rodinal. Time to attack that sucker. Which reminds me to ask: Aussie goons, where do you get your Rodinal? I've used Vanbar in the past but every time I go in there recently it's like we're performing the cheeseshop sketch. (And the fact two people there hadn't even heard of HC-110 isn't really a glowing endorsement.)
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Jul 22, 2015 12:22
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