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See, I went the other way with it and got a Milwaukee Super Sawzall. A reciprocating saw should ideally only be used for demolition or when something else has failed so I want to know my last resort is going to get the job done.
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Sep 28, 2017 15:26
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I got the harbor frieght one a few months ago to assist in replacing the exhaust on my g/f's jeep. I got the one with the rotating handle that turned out to be a life saver getting in the tight spot under the jeep. The rotating mechanism seems a little janky but the rest of the saw feels solid. It's the only one on the market that I know of that does that.
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Sep 28, 2017 15:46
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I have experiences with HF electrics though. And I'm right now of the attitude of... not getting the absolute top of the line, but not having to buy poo poo twice because the first one burned up. Plus it's about an hour and a half round trip to get to HF.  Then again, the chicago electric 9 amp jobbie doesn't look too bad.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:09
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I'd go with an old Milwaukee if you can find one. They're built like brick poo poo houses, and you won't need to worry about them busting into flames like the HF.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:18
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I bought a REALLY beat up looking 120v DeWalt reciprocating saw at a pawn shop in Denver like 15 years ago. I used it to chop up a car, and I brought all the pieces to the metal scrap yard myself. I've abused it over the years for various other jobs, cutting branches, exhaust work, cutting seized suspension bolts. It will never die. It's a magic tool.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:22
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Yeah pawn shops still have good old stuff. God bless junkies i guess, their parents have some good tools lol.
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Sep 28, 2017 16:41
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Will any M18 battery/charger fit the 2860? Is something like the Dewalt 880 too light for lug nuts, et cetera? Or a Milwauke 2754? I hear y'all on picking up a lighter impact, and I think it would make sense for me. Any good $200-300 options (with a charger and battery)? nitsuga fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Sep 29, 2017 |
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Sep 29, 2017 03:21
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imo neither of those are great
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Sep 29, 2017 04:03
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The Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8 impact will take off my 100lb or less lug nuts. Not instantly but quick.
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Sep 29, 2017 04:10
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For ~reasons~ I built a vinyl privacy fence but didn't cut the wood fence posts before attaching all the vinyl pieces, so I have 10 2x4s sticking up past the fence. I need to cut the wood off so it doesn't look like poo poo, but I can't get behind the fence to get a good angle or anything. I can probably just use my pruning saw but it will take forever, and if I try my circular saw I'll end up with it embedded in my chest. Should I just buy the cheapest sawzall at Harbor Freight?
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Sep 29, 2017 21:57
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Homemade tools = best tools 
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Sep 29, 2017 22:22
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MomJeans420 posted:For ~reasons~ I built a vinyl privacy fence but didn't cut the wood fence posts before attaching all the vinyl pieces, so I have 10 2x4s sticking up past the fence. I need to cut the wood off so it doesn't look like poo poo, but I can't get behind the fence to get a good angle or anything. I can probably just use my pruning saw but it will take forever, and if I try my circular saw I'll end up with it embedded in my chest. Should I just buy the cheapest sawzall at Harbor Freight? it will look like poo poo if you dont use a circular saw
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Sep 29, 2017 23:57
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BraveUlysses posted:it will look like poo poo if you dont use a circular saw The only aesthetically pleasing result possible with a sawzall must involve destruction. I mean, unless your goal is ragged curving cuts I guess. (You could make a fence out of scrap that clamps to the post at right angles if you're feeling nervous with a circular saw)
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Sep 30, 2017 00:09
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Really? I've found that a sawzall with a finer tooth blade can give pretty reasonable cuts, if you have a guide to keep you straight.
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Sep 30, 2017 00:17
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Just inherited an Ingersoll-Rand 3/8" drive air ratchet. Is there a common failure mode that would cause one to run at full speed when held in one orientation (drive down,) but barely turn/turn erratically in another (drive up?) I have an older I-R 3/8" air ratchet that works fine on the same air source, so it's not low pressure or volume.
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Sep 30, 2017 00:20
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The wood posts won't be visible, I just need to be able to cut towards myself and not cut through the fence portion or my chest. Sounds like fine blade may work? I can try a sample piece first I guess.
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Sep 30, 2017 00:52
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If its just the threat of trespass that has you contemplating running a saw towards your chest i hope you reconsider this.
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Sep 30, 2017 01:48
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MomJeans420 posted:The wood posts won't be visible, I just need to be able to cut towards myself and not cut through the fence portion or my chest. Sounds like fine blade may work? I can try a sample piece first I guess. Circular saw is 100% the safest way to do this, as well as the cleanest looking way to go . Just for quick clarification though, are these actually 2x4 boards? Or are they 4x4 posts, because the latter would be a lot more difficult to get with the circular saw, especially of the fence is right up against the other half of the cut. Something like this might work:  Or, it would be slow going, but if you don't feel comfortable with the saw, even an oscillating multi tool could do the trick with plunge cuts to cut the last portion against the fence (ideally after a deep pass with the circular saw)  It's too late now, but the correct answer would have been to size them correctly with a miter saw in the beginning
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Sep 30, 2017 11:40
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Guys, is this a good deal? https://slickdeals.net/f/10490312-d...earchBarV2Algo1 You get the 4 piece 20v cordles driver kit https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-2-Tool-20-volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit/50169133 Plus a bonus tool for $200 shipped. I'm thinking about getting either the sawsall or the circle saw I don't need either, but I could definitely use both. Which do you recommend?
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Sep 30, 2017 14:09
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Personally I'd want a hammer drill, but maybe you have no use for one. The 5 tool set (hammer drill, impact driver, sawzall, circular, light) goes on sale thanksgiving-Christmas time. Edit: yours isn't a bad deal if you won't use a hammer drill, and if you're getting it I recommend the sawzall, I use mine all the time. Can't remember the last time I got the corded one out. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 14:22
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Guys, is this a good deal? Cordless circular saw is awesome, can confirm. That being said, unless you already have DeWalt cordless tools, I'd highly highly recommend buying into Makita or Milwaukee's 18v line. For one, they don't change their battery connectors every few years, and they have a much bigger and better selection of tools to buy into. E: plus the whole 20v thing is purely peak charging voltage marketing wank, it's the same drat 18v lithium batteries as everyone else has.
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Sep 30, 2017 14:23
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I really wish one of these deals ever had the option of a little 3/8 impact wrench as the freebie. I really should replace my NiCad Craftsman C3 set.
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Sep 30, 2017 15:44
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OSU_Matthew posted:Cordless circular saw is awesome, can confirm. That being said, unless you already have DeWalt cordless tools, I'd highly highly recommend buying into Makita or Milwaukee's 18v line. For one, they don't change their battery connectors every few years, and they have a much bigger and better selection of tools to buy into. angryrobots posted:Personally I'd want a hammer drill, but maybe you have no use for one. So that's one vote for the sawsall and one for the circular saw. Thanks. Y'all aren't making this any easier. I do agree with both the hammer drill and Milwaukee sentiment though. However, 5% off when I use my Lowes card, plus the bigger carry bag plus the free tool means that DeWalt wins this round. If I have to use a hammer drill then I can live with busting out the corded one. Edit: oh for gently caress's sake it just adds the circle saw automatically and doesn't let me choose the reciprocating saw. it figures, since I realized I'd have more use for a cordless sawsall than circular saw. Double edit: apparently the promo has been updated to only include the circular saw. damnit. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 16:25
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Lol, I have a regular circular saw that I would use for anything serious. I don't do a lot of framing anyway. But I've found the sawzall handy building livestock fencing, vehicle and house demolition, tree pruning, etc. Plus with a corded sawzall it always seems like the cord is getting in the way and about to get chopped, so that's an improvement on its own. Just depends on what you do more of?
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Sep 30, 2017 16:35
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:So that's one vote for the sawsall and one for the circular saw. Thanks. Y'all aren't making this any easier. gently caress it. Lowes also has the sawsall on sale for $159 and they throw in a free 6Ah battery I think I can swing $360 for a drill, impact driver, 2x 2Ah batteries, 1 6Ah battery, a sawsall and a circle saw. That is unless anyone else has a better deal or better suggestion...
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Sep 30, 2017 17:04
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MomJeans420 posted:For ~reasons~ I built a vinyl privacy fence but didn't cut the wood fence posts before attaching all the vinyl pieces, so I have 10 2x4s sticking up past the fence. I need to cut the wood off so it doesn't look like poo poo, but I can't get behind the fence to get a good angle or anything. I can probably just use my pruning saw but it will take forever, and if I try my circular saw I'll end up with it embedded in my chest. Should I just buy the cheapest sawzall at Harbor Freight? If you are just cutting the posts down to be flush with the vinyl, go for a sawzall. It's great for that. You could probably cover the cut edge with a vinyl cap as well to make it pretty. If you're cutting the posts below the top of the vinyl, a sawzall won't work since you'll damage everything behind your cut, the blade wildly flails beyond the cut line. Use a circular saw - assuming you're cutting the 1.5" dimension. The blade won't protrude far enough on the 3.5" dimension and you'll have to get creative for the last inch or so.
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Sep 30, 2017 17:10
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I have the DeWalt stuff and the run-out on the drill chuck is abysmal. I got a 4 tool deal for 230 shipped a year ago in a gold box. Kind of wish I went Makita for that reason alone. I'm going 12v Milwaukee for the tool selection.
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Sep 30, 2017 17:12
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Looks like Home Depot's running some pretty good deal on Milwaukees: 3/8" Fuel Kit 1/2" Fuel Kit Now to pick between the 3/8" and 1/2".
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Sep 30, 2017 17:21
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Those little hammer drills aren't going to do much more than a non hammer drill. If you really want to put holes in concrete/rock get or rent an actual rotary hammer drill.
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Sep 30, 2017 18:46
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Galler posted:Those little hammer drills aren't going to do much more than a non hammer drill. If you really want to put holes in concrete/rock get or rent an actual rotary hammer drill. They're pretty nice for piloting small Tapcons, which is a common homeowner thing to do.
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Sep 30, 2017 19:28
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Galler posted:Those little hammer drills aren't going to do much more than a non hammer drill. If you really want to put holes in concrete/rock get or rent an actual rotary hammer drill. Yeah that's bullshit. You won't find a commercial electrician without a small hammer drill, even if they also have a big hilti rotary hammer. For the exact reason above stated - they work great with 1/4 masonry bits for anchor points.
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Sep 30, 2017 19:44
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:gently caress it. Cordless angle grinders are pretty drat handy and can cut. I actually use mine more than the corded just because its quicker and most jobs are pretty short so the battery isnt much of a downside.
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Sep 30, 2017 19:57
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eddiewalker posted:They're pretty nice for piloting small Tapcons, which is a common homeowner thing to do. angryrobots posted:Yeah that's bullshit. You won't find a commercial electrician without a small hammer drill, even if they also have a big hilti rotary hammer. For the exact reason above stated - they work great with 1/4 masonry bits for anchor points. Which you can do just fine with a regular drill. The only time you need actual hammering action (which those little 'hammer' drills can't do) is when you hit a rock. I've flipped my 'hammer' drill back and forth between normal and hammer when drilling through cinderblock and the only difference is the sound it makes. The hammer action on my rotary hammer drill makes a huge difference though. e: AvE seems rather impressed with the Harbor Freight Earthquake XT 1/2" cordless impact. Galler fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 20:04
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Maybe yours sucks? Even the hammer setting on my little m12 thing makes a significant difference.
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Sep 30, 2017 22:29
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I've used a few and they have indeed all sucked at hammering. Why they suck makes sense when you look at their hammering mechanism or lack thereof.
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Oct 1, 2017 00:30
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:gently caress it. It's not terrible, but I'd be afraid 2Ah batteries are pretty puny. My kit came with 3Ah batteries and the 5Ah knock-off I bought from Amazon is noticeably more long lasting. I think if you can wait for black Friday you can probably get a better deal. If it makes any difference to you - you mentioned the big carrying bag being a selling point for you. I've never used mine and you can have it for the cost of shipping if that helps at all.
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Oct 1, 2017 00:54
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Milwaukee make a really nice M18 rotary hammer thats not hideously expensive, and has the bonus of being able to lock out the rotary action and just use the hammer action as a light weight demo hammer- really good at adjusting concrete to fit poo poo. And if you havent tried pruning blades in a recip saw yet, my GOD they're good. I take mine camping now and they'll happily chew their way through 10" diameter logs without flinching.
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Oct 1, 2017 01:25
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Galler posted:Which you can do just fine with a regular drill. The only time you need actual hammering action (which those little 'hammer' drills can't do) is when you hit a rock. LOL no. I used to be a fridgie (a/c mech) and in australia most houses are brick. I had to drill a lot of holes with masonry bits for 5-6mm nylon knock ins or 10-12mm for anchors. You need a hammer drill for that type of work. A $30 cheapy with ahmmer drill function would poo poo on the best non hammer drill all day every day. A hammer drill goes through brick like butter. My best battery drills (makita) were non hammer they were for steel or drilling out rivets while I was on the rooftops). I got a cheapy B&D mains drill for masonary drilling, but had to get a cheapy battery ryobi for when the power was out (which sucked compared to the makita, but it could do hammer function which made it better when needed for walls). Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Oct 1, 2017 |
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Oct 1, 2017 13:09
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Fo3 posted:LOL no. I used to be a fridgie (a/c mech) and in australia most houses are brick. I had to drill a lot of holes with masonry bits for 5-6mm nylon knock ins or 10-12mm for anchors. You need a hammer drill for that type of work. A $30 cheapy with ahmmer drill function would poo poo on the best non hammer drill all day every day. A hammer drill goes through brick like butter. The way a hammer drill goes through masonry compared to a regular drill motor is the exact same contrast you'd see after using a true rotary hammer for the first time.
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Oct 1, 2017 13:12
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MrYenko posted:The way a hammer drill goes through masonry compared to a regular drill motor is the exact same contrast you'd see after using a true rotary hammer for the first time. Of course I also had a mains powder rotary hammer for cutting 2" holes for mini split piping - but like your going to take that out for a 10mm hole...
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Oct 1, 2017 13:13
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