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So just an update to the ongoing saga 1990 E30 325i and its various mystery problems. Thankfully it looks like the intermittent cranking with no start problem has been solved... maybe. After inspecting all of the wires, changing computers and crank position sensors with spares, replacing the relays and generally going insane over the car's issue we were still no closer to figuring out what was wrong. For those of you who don't know the full story of the issue I was having, my E30 would stall(normally in construction traffic) and then refuse to restart. It would crank, but it would produce no spark. The fuel pump was working fine, and we were getting proper voltages so we didn't know what was wrong with it. Then we would do something to it and it would work again. Thus began a couple days of extensive testing where it wouldn't have any issues at all. (minus a vaccuum leak and its other issues listed below). Then, sure enough it would do it again. Thankfully the car was polite about its failure and each time I was in an area where I could roll it down hill into a parking lot and have it be picked up by my stepdad with his trailer. Anyway, two days ago we went over the car, which was starting fine at this point despite us doing nothing to it since its last failure, and we inspected everything. Took it out for a test drive and it thankfully didn't tease us because it died on us once again. (In this case we turned off the car while driving and then tried to turn it back on again). About half an hour of loving with the engine but not accomplishing anything, the car decided it wanted to start again. We drove it back to the shop, testing to see if it would die again by shutting it off and turning back on multiple times with no issue. At this point my stepdad was stumped because neither he, nor his contacts in the racing/automotive shop business knew what was wrong with it, and we called it a day and I went home. Anyway, the next day my stepdad got a suggestion to check the wire junction on the passenger side firewall and it turns out that all 4 screws on this part were somewhat loose. He tightened them up, and put 100 miles on the car in testing before handing it off to me to test during the remainder of my spring break. It looks very promising because it is starting instantly like how it did before this whole mess. (When it was having the issue and we were testing it, it would crank for 1-2 seconds before starting) So that is one mystery affliction down, and wouldn't you know it, a new one has taken its place. I can no longer lock my doors to my car. The driver side lock will not turn currently. The passenger side is even worse because it will turn, but it won't do anything at all other than make a buzz. What makes it worse is that the passenger door has decided that it will be permanently locked and the only way to open it is by timing the relay buzz from turning the key with pulling up on the door handle. We had the passenger door apart and we were unable to fix it. Next we are going to see if it is something in the driver side door. Oh, and the problem isn't consistent either. The problem first appeared a few days ago and we couldn't resolve it so we put the door back together, testing it again to no avail. Then we got lunch and when we came back, it was suddenly working again. I am not sure if anyone has any idea what the problem could be, but suggestions are appreciated. Just a few details about the locking issue. -The passenger lock rotates 45 degrees in each direction whereas the drivers side lock rotates 90 degrees in each direction. -Neither of my lock remotes work despite having new batteries. This is just one of the multitude of mystery problems with my car. The others are: 1) A mysterious vibration at about 30-40mph. A bunch of parts and tests have been thrown at this problem over the years to no avail. Next up we are going to try replacing the rear half shafts to see if the problem is an unbalanced shaft. It isn't too big of a deal and it has been there for over a decade, it is just something that we have never been able to resolve. 2) The check engine light issue. This one is very frustrating, but thankfully doesn't cause us any issue besides the initial jolt. My car is currently throwing an pair of engine codes relating to the Oxygen sensor and O2 sensor heater. The engine runs fine as long as these codes are displayed, and the fuel economy is fine, but as soon as we clear the codes the car gets upset. I am able to drive the car just fine until I reach 3500rpm. At about this point the car will just die for about a second then come back to life as if there was nothing wrong. When I say die, I don't mean just the engine because when it happens the dashboard doesn't light up like a Christmas tree as it does if it stalls. It just decelerates rapidly, then continues on as if nothing happened. I have actually watched as the tach read 3500 when it died, and climbed normally during the jolt, finally reading 5000rpm when the engine kicked back on. Upon doing this, it throws the engine codes again, but it will not repeat the jolt until you clear the codes again. It only does it when the codes are cleared, and it will do it every time without fail. We have changed ECUs, fixed a small vacuum leak, replaced the relays and performed several other attempts at fixing it to no avail. When the car was in the shop this weekend my stepdad finally broke down and bought a replacement O2 sensor despite being pretty sure that the O2 sensor wouldn't cause the issue. Just as we figured the new sensor changed absolutely nothing and the problem persists. We have no idea what could be doing this, and so far searching the internet and asking around has resulted in absolutely nothing. (well, other than realizing that asking any sort of mechanical question on Bimmerforums is completely pointless because they will either not respond, or give you unhelpful advice like change the O2 sensor again) Actually, that is a lie. I have actually gotten replies here, and I have come to realize that it has happened to other people, though not as regularly as with me. So yeah, my car is now drivable again unless testing shows me that it is just another false positive. That is one mysterious issue down, and two more to go. We also have to fix the locks and I really hope that the issue is in the drivers side door because I don't want another mystery affliction. But still, I love the car, and I am very happy that it seems to be working reliably again. I am still distrustful and paranoid about it, but I am sure that will go away in time as it earns my trust back.
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Mar 20, 2013 00:04
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 23:48 |
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You're probably going to have to rebuild one or more of your door locks. The next thing is the automatic door relays which are located beneath the drivers side speaker. If you have a remote, then who knows what else could be spliced into the harness that could be causing it to malfunction, as that is not a standard item. I had the same O2 sensor codes, maybe you should check your O2 sensor wiring? I'm at a loss there if you've checked relays/fuses for it. You've checked all the grounds?
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Mar 20, 2013 01:32
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Yup, the grounds were checked during the no-start ordeal. This weekend I will be bringing it back up to the shop to see if we can sort out the door issue.
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Mar 20, 2013 02:11
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Billy Zane posted:Most of the HPFP issues were found in N54-powered cars; there doesn't appear to be a significant number of fuel pump failures for the N55. That being said, 2010+ 135i's have the N55 motor if you're concerned about the fuel pump. The latest revision of the HPFP has a very low failure rate. BMW bought the company that was supplying the HPFPs and probably fired everyone to replace them with Superior German Workers so there wouldn't be so many problems. MY2011 135s have the n55, I have a MY2010 and it has the n54. If you want to get a manual I recommend getting the n54, it will be cheaper because they are older and you can get 50whp with just a tune. I've been running mine with mods since the first month I've had it, I haven't had any problems with it in over 45k miles and I'm making 485whp/510wtq. If you are going to get an auto I would get a 2011+ with the DCT transmission. The n55 doesn't respond as well to mods as the n54, but with the DCT you can make up for it. I really wish that I could have gotten an n54 with the DCT, but the only car that has that is the 335is and those are about as much as M3s. If you don't plan on modding it don't worry about which motor to get, the n55 and n54 perform pretty much identically at stock power levels.
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Mar 20, 2013 02:26
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How's the backseat in the 1 series? I'm thinking about moving up from my 07 Subaru impreza and I'm wondering if four adults could sit somewhat comfortably.
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Mar 20, 2013 02:46
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Ethereal posted:How's the backseat in the 1 series? I'm thinking about moving up from my 07 Subaru impreza and I'm wondering if four adults could sit somewhat comfortably. What backseat?
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Mar 20, 2013 03:00
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doogle posted:MY2011 135s have the n55, I have a MY2010 and it has the n54. I could've sworn some people mentioned on 1addicts that BMW switched engines mid-way through MY2010. 
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Mar 20, 2013 03:26
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Billy Zane posted:I could've sworn some people mentioned on 1addicts that BMW switched engines mid-way through MY2010. Production dates are what matters, up until about september 2010 it was the n54, but all cars produced after that were MY2011.
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Mar 20, 2013 04:02
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leica posted:Well it would be the wife's daily so it needs to be an automatic. Price range is around 6k. Thrust arms, cooling system (v8 seems a little more robust), struts, rubber bushings. Other than that if it was looked after your going to enjoy a wonderful car. 5ers are built extremely well.
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Mar 20, 2013 07:08
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E39 wagons are also notorious for rear subframe bushings. If those haven't been done you'll have to look at them. It's possible to do them without removing the subframe, just lowering it.
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Mar 20, 2013 16:09
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Welp, woke up this morning to find that someone slashed my M3's soft-top in two different places last night. *sigh* Good thing I have good car & property insurance.
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Mar 20, 2013 16:24
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Crustashio posted:E39 wagons are also notorious for rear subframe bushings. If those haven't been done you'll have to look at them. It's possible to do them without removing the subframe, just lowering it. That doesn't sound too bad. I guess the thing I'm worried most about is electrical and motor/trans issues that I can't diagnose or fix myself. Suspension and cooling stuff I can handle. I've been surprised at the prices they are going for, being in FL there's no rust to worry about, so all these cars look new. I imagine the mpg's aren't great but it's gotta be better than a Crown Vic.
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Mar 20, 2013 16:28
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My clone showed up. Sorry for the poo poo picture.
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Mar 20, 2013 16:47
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Is an e46 M3 THAT much better than an e46 330Ci...automatic? I've had that gold colored e46 M3 poster in my room since it came out while I was in high school, and in the next year or so I'll be able to save up enough to buy one if I want it. I really want it. But I like the 330Ci a lot too.
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Mar 20, 2013 17:10
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Is an e46 M3 THAT much better than an e46 330Ci...automatic? I've had that gold colored e46 M3 poster in my room since it came out while I was in high school, and in the next year or so I'll be able to save up enough to buy one if I want it. I really want it. But I like the 330Ci a lot too. Yeah it's pretty much the nicest drive before you buy a Porsche.
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Mar 20, 2013 17:11
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Is an e46 M3 THAT much better than an e46 330Ci...automatic? I've had that gold colored e46 M3 poster in my room since it came out while I was in high school, and in the next year or so I'll be able to save up enough to buy one if I want it. I really want it. But I like the 330Ci a lot too. Yes. LSD, better suspension geometry, more horsepower...
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Mar 20, 2013 17:14
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leica posted:That doesn't sound too bad. I guess the thing I'm worried most about is electrical and motor/trans issues that I can't diagnose or fix myself. Suspension and cooling stuff I can handle. I've been surprised at the prices they are going for, being in FL there's no rust to worry about, so all these cars look new. I imagine the mpg's aren't great but it's gotta be better than a Crown Vic. For the most part E39 electronics are pretty solid. If you do get a v8, expect to change the timing chain tensioner (10 minute job) and the CCV valve (its more of a bitch to get at). Other than that, the V8 and inline 6 are both rock solid engines. Try to opt for anything newer than 2001, as it has a few updates to the engines, body, etc. The media computer takes to updates really easy, and DICE makes plenty of upgrades. The biggest issue is the 5L40e. Its pretty much a piece of crap and its bolted behind all the 6 cylinders. It will poo poo out on you, its just a matter of when. Its to small and weak to be behind the 6 banger, and the wagon just adds to the weight issue. Best to get a manual if you want a 6, unless you can drop and swap a tranny easy enough. The only auto transmission and engine combo I could honestly suggest is the 540i - M62/ZF 5HP24 - Its a fairly stout combo, and the ZF will last longer.
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Mar 20, 2013 17:37
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Is an e46 M3 THAT much better than an e46 330Ci...automatic? I've had that gold colored e46 M3 poster in my room since it came out while I was in high school, and in the next year or so I'll be able to save up enough to buy one if I want it. I really want it. But I like the 330Ci a lot too. Lightbulb Out posted:Yes. LSD, better suspension geometry, more horsepower... THIS, but try to find a manual transmission M3... actually don't so it will be out there for me someday.
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Mar 20, 2013 17:40
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Keyser S0ze posted:THIS, but try to find a manual transmission M3... actually don't so it will be out there for me someday.
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Mar 20, 2013 18:15
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Is an e46 M3 THAT much better than an e46 330Ci...automatic? I've had that gold colored e46 M3 poster in my room since it came out while I was in high school, and in the next year or so I'll be able to save up enough to buy one if I want it. I really want it. But I like the 330Ci a lot too. Depends on what you want out of a car. If you want a quick, stiff-riding, practical sports car that is supremely confident on the race track and don't mind paying the premium... then yes, M3 all day. If you're looking for a posh, capable daily driver that still puts a smile on your face on a winding road, the 330 will do it. It's a matter of expectations and budget. I would certainly recommend you drive both (back to back if possible) before making a decision.
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Mar 20, 2013 18:40
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This is what I walked out to this morning: 
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Mar 20, 2013 18:47
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The only auto transmission and engine combo I could honestly suggest is the 540i - M62/ZF 5HP24 - Its a fairly stout combo, and the ZF will last longer. Thanks. If I go the BMW route I think I'm gonna go with 540 wagon or sedan, I like V8's and a better trans is icing on the cake. Oh God, a '99 but drat it's clean. http://orlando.craigslist.org/ctd/3630521528.html
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Mar 20, 2013 22:03
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leica posted:Thanks. If I go the BMW route I think I'm gonna go with 540 wagon or sedan, I like V8's and a better trans is icing on the cake. I've got a 94 e34 Touring and I love the thing. It's a way good handling car, will cruise for decades down any interstate, hauls all your poo poo and looks good. I'd imagine the next-gen e39 has to be just as well built and composed, if not out-right better. e34 styling is way hotter though  I'll prolly keep this one for ever until I can get one of these...
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Mar 20, 2013 22:21
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Kenshin posted:This is what I walked out to this morning: loving assholes can't help themselves but to ruin nice things. People like that deserve nothing but contempt and possibly thorough ball-kicking.
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Mar 20, 2013 22:30
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leica posted:Thanks. If I go the BMW route I think I'm gonna go with 540 wagon or sedan, I like V8's and a better trans is icing on the cake. I would not be afraid of a 99. This year you get the addition of Vanos on the exhaust side (no issues with this), plus a bunch of extra little bits that are standard on the wagon. Just make sure the rear self leveling suspension is in good shape, new shocks will run around 120 bucks on rock auto. Not super cheap, but keep it in mind. Dead pixels on the displays are normal, the are fixable, here is a DIY guide if your up to doing it. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair Also, if you want to update the car to the later E39, its pretty easy to do so. The "halo" lights bolt right in, plus you can update the rears to the clear turn lenses. FWIW, the E39 has been declared one of the best cars on the road by several auto reviewers. (I am a 5'er fan, so I am very biased)
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Mar 20, 2013 22:31
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I've been searching around for 135s for the hell of it, and I found a CPO 2009. It makes me want to buy it right now simply because it has a CPO warranty until 2018 and has such low miles. My only problem is I don't want to have a nice car before I move. The people where I live right now are all shitlords who don't know how to park. My current 328 has already taken it's fair share of dings and dents so no sense crying over that, but I don't want to get a new car and get it ruined instantly by assholes. http://www.momentumbmw.net/certified/BMW/2009-BMW-135-Houston-54acf5d40a0a006400101044b0adb31a.htm I kind of just want to buy it now, keep it at my parents' house and then sell my current car after I move. It's currently the only CPO 2008-9 135i within 300 miles of me, and I don't know if I'll be able to find another one in August that doesn't have loving beige or dog dick red interior.
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Mar 20, 2013 23:43
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If you buy it now and can keep it safe away from you until you're satisfied you can keep it safe with you, you'll be happy. You'll be able to think about your shiny car every time your 328 takes another hit from dickheads. If you don't buy it now, you'll spend all of August kicking yourself until you find one just like it, or in September, October, November... as your standards slip and you decide you're willing to settle on some minor detail. If you buy it now and you can't keep it safe, you'll be very sad.
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Mar 21, 2013 00:47
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ExecuDork posted:If you buy it now and can keep it safe away from you until you're satisfied you can keep it safe with you, you'll be happy. You'll be able to think about your shiny car every time your 328 takes another hit from dickheads. Well optioned 1s are hard to come by. Do it.
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Mar 21, 2013 01:45
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BrokenKnucklez posted:FWIW, the E39 has been declared one of the best cars on the road by several auto reviewers. (I am a 5'er fan, so I am very biased) Well if Clarkson gushes over them they must be good because he's a picky fucker  I just need to get my wife to drive one, and it will probably be a done deal after that.
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Mar 21, 2013 01:53
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Just tell her they only come with V8s and 6 speed transmissions.
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Mar 21, 2013 02:03
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Cojawfee posted:it has a CPO warranty until 2018 I don't know if the CPO information posted in that ad is correct. I have a 2009 335 purchased in June last year, and the CPO warranty piggybacks 2 years onto the standard 4-year/50K warranty, for up to 6 years/100K from original purchase date (as a new car). My warranty expires mid-2015. If you can get a warranty in writing to 2018, it's a no-brainer.
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Mar 21, 2013 19:02
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6/100 is what I thought it was too. I wonder if the dealer is trying to pass a 3rd party warranty off as CPO. Or they typo'd the year (most likely option)
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Mar 21, 2013 21:14
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PXJ800 posted:I don't know if the CPO information posted in that ad is correct. I have a 2009 335 purchased in June last year, and the CPO warranty piggybacks 2 years onto the standard 4-year/50K warranty, for up to 6 years/100K from original purchase date (as a new car). My warranty expires mid-2015. If you can get a warranty in writing to 2018, it's a no-brainer. Maybe they are just confused. It's a BMW dealership (it's owned by "Sonic Automotive" or something). I was able to find the car as a CPO on the bmwusa.com. The add lists the warranty as good until 3/27/2018 or 100K miles. I'll make sure when I check it out. I've made an appointment for a week from now (as I live 200 miles away). If it is still there and it's on the level, I'm going to buy it. It looks awesome, has great features and has low mileage. The carfax seems on the level as far as I can tell. The Toyota dealership looked odd at first, but it's owned by Cardenas auto group which owns Cardenas BMW. That happens to be right on the border of Mexico. Maybe it's filled with weed. Cojawfee fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 01:43
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The thing that gets me for CPO warranties is that they exclude a lot of things.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:13
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Bovril Delight posted:The thing that gets me for CPO warranties is that they exclude a lot of things. They just updated it this year to exclude more things too
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Mar 22, 2013 02:17
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It's better than no warranty at all.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:44
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Cojawfee posted:It's better than no warranty at all. That really depends on how much you've pad for said warranty.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:44
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The only thing that really annoyed me with my previous CPO warranty is that it doesn't cover suspension at all. Which ended up not being that big of a deal, because my suspension ended up not really breaking. The only other thing in their "what's not included" PDF that I don't like is the radio. Everything else I wouldn't really expect a used car to have a warranty on. What I expect out of CPO is that poo poo isn't broken and it's as close to good as a four year old car can be. Anything else and I'd just get one of those third party warranties.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:47
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 4 glasses for $4. 
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Mar 22, 2013 03:29
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 23:48 |
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Is there a big enough difference that I should get the activated charcoal air cabin filter for my E34 or just get the regular one and save myself  ?http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/BE34/POR_BE34_BASflt_pg4.htm#item19
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Mar 22, 2013 05:43
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