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What I do, when I'm working fast, is to set the b/w points of each channel to just-before-clipping values and then on a curves layer I use the midtone sampler to sample a gray area which takes care of any huge left over colour casts. The quick and dirty method.
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# ? Aug 6, 2015 22:54 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 03:43 |
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I did that for a long time too, but scenes without an obvious gray area drove me nuts. It was also hard to get a balance between multiple shots in the same scene.
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# ? Aug 6, 2015 22:59 |
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Click on "show clipping" and get faster at using alt 3/4/5, it takes me about 30 seconds per image to get in roughly good shape. Why even bother with an invert layer? Cmd+i.
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# ? Aug 6, 2015 23:15 |
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For the Canadian folks out there, Princess Auto has two packs of 60ml syringes for $2.99. Should be good for mixing film chemistry.
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# ? Aug 7, 2015 23:29 |
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I'm shooting some medium format next weekend and have Portra 400 on order. Am I missing anything as far as push/pulling? From my understanding I would set my light meter for ISO 200 and then expose for the shadows of my frame, correct? Then I write Pull +1 (or -1?) on the development envelope? I'm going to be shooting portraits so I'll be wanting the pastel/washed out kind of look. Would this be the correct way of going about things?
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:04 |
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Don't know what you're shooting on but don't forget to change the ISO on the film back, body etc.
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:10 |
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Would one stop underexposure on P400 actually do much? That film is crazy.
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:14 |
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Thoogsby posted:Don't know what you're shooting on but don't forget to change the ISO on the film back, body etc. Shooting on the Hasselblad 501cm. I have no knowledge about it besides Is Camera and Takes Pictures. Quantum of Phallus posted:Would one stop underexposure on P400 actually do much? That film is crazy. That was the other question, should I even bother or should I just have fun and shoot it at ISO 400?
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:17 |
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iSheep posted:I'm shooting some medium format next weekend and have Portra 400 on order. If you want to pull it for the pastel look just shoot it metered at EI 200 and have it processed normally.
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:34 |
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I can post some examples once I get to a computer, but I just had a roll developed this weekend that I shot anywhere from 1 to 3 stops underexposed. Every shot turned out more or less OK developed at speed.
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:40 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Would one stop underexposure on P400 actually do much? That film is crazy. Short answer: No
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 00:47 |
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Thoogsby posted:Short answer: No These were 35mm, Portra 400 on an Olympus OM-10 and stock 50/1.8. Let the camera meter outdoors, probably f5.6 and still pushed to 1/1k. This honestly came out overexposed a bit. It's the only one of these three I adjusted exposure in post. Grammy by Matt Philpott, on Flickr Shot at 1/60, f2.8 with the camera metering 1/15 (so two stops under). Dinner by Matt Philpott, on Flickr Shot at 1/60, f1.8 with the camera metering 1/8 (so three stops under). Two-seater by Matt Philpott, on Flickr Huxley fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 11, 2015 |
# ? Aug 11, 2015 01:03 |
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Cat Labs are making a roller bath that will work with any tank: http://www.catlabs.info/product/pre-order-sst4-universal-film-paper-processor $1600 though.
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 01:25 |
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Spedman posted:Cat Labs are making a roller bath that will work with any tank: How about $25? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121721421407
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 01:52 |
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I have one of those, its not great, but it does the job. $1600 is crazy, considering you could build it yourself with parts from online Chinese retailers like banggood for not much.
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# ? Aug 11, 2015 02:13 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:If you want to pull it for the pastel look just shoot it metered at EI 200 and have it processed normally. Awesome, will do. Could I even shoot at 100 and be ok?
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 04:22 |
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If it's not too contrasty maybe but why? Maybe bracket a few and see if +1 stops alone works, it can be pretty dramatic.
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 04:40 |
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Just not exactly sure what needs to happen to get that ideal Portra 400 look. Is the answer to shoot Portra 400?
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 04:47 |
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Yeah, pretty much. I doubt most of the photos you see are overexposed.
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 04:47 |
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If you post an example of the type of Portra 400 look you're talking about I'm sure someone could give you a fairly accurate answer to your question, there's no shortage of portra 400 users in this thread.
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 13:06 |
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Goon photos: Nicole by Will, on Flickr Tony by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr This is the look I'm going to try for on Saturday, if my model doesn't flake: Untitled by Ян Кузик, on Flickr Guessing the answer is still "Shoot Portra"
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 17:45 |
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iSheep posted:Goon photos: Yeah, both of those (certainly mine) are just properly exposed Portra. Don't even overexpose.
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 17:48 |
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This is overexposed just a half of a stop.
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# ? Aug 12, 2015 18:15 |
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I tend to overexpose my photos by just a hair anyway so maybe I'll just do that. Also locally its gonna cost me nearly $20 per roll to develop and scan which holy poo poo. I may just shoot one roll if that is the case.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 01:42 |
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iSheep posted:I tend to overexpose my photos by just a hair anyway so maybe I'll just do that. If you plan on shooting more than 10 rolls ever, buy a scanner. It'll pay for itself really quickly.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 01:52 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:If you plan on shooting more than 10 rolls ever, buy a scanner. It'll pay for itself really quickly. For sure. I just wanted to rent the 501cm for the weekend and see if film is something I would like to become even more broke for.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 01:57 |
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iSheep posted:I tend to overexpose my photos by just a hair anyway so maybe I'll just do that. $12/roll + S/H. They come back as JPG, which is not ideal, but the price is solid and they're good enough until you get your own scanner.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 08:11 |
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iSheep posted:For sure. I just wanted to rent the 501cm for the weekend and see if film is something I would like to become even more broke for. If you're in the NY/NJ area I have an epson 4490 that I was going to throw on CL for $25 or so - I'd trade you for a few rolls of film. It worked decently enough for MF.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 12:03 |
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Fomapan 400 - Nikon F100
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 12:35 |
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Spedman posted:Fomapan 400 - Nikon F100 Niiiice
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 12:58 |
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Yond Cassius posted:$12/roll + S/H. They come back as JPG, which is not ideal, but the price is solid and they're good enough until you get your own scanner. Doesn't seem to include development. Which also I should've specified, I included the cost of the roll in that estimate. So this would be more pricey. Bud posted:If you're in the NY/NJ area I have an epson 4490 that I was going to throw on CL for $25 or so - I'd trade you for a few rolls of film. It worked decently enough for MF. Pretty much on the other side of the country
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 19:34 |
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iSheep posted:Doesn't seem to include development. Which also I should've specified, I included the cost of the roll in that estimate. So this would be more pricey. It includes C41 development. They don't check whether you're a GetDPI/RFF member or not. I used them for quite a while and they never charged me for development.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 19:50 |
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Yond Cassius posted:It includes C41 development. They don't check whether you're a GetDPI/RFF member or not. I used them for quite a while and they never charged me for development. If I had this planned out a bit further in advance I think I would've saved money using these guys. But I put everything off til the last second.
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# ? Aug 13, 2015 19:58 |
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BANME.sh posted:I found a new way to process negatives that takes a lot of the guesswork out of it (for me at least). It's essentially the same concept as the video in the OP, but there's a slightly different approach to get there. I'll outline the method here and I'm curious for you guys to try it out. It works amazingly for me. I do recommend inverting first and then sampling the orange base as black, though.
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# ? Aug 14, 2015 00:54 |
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Oversharpened portra stuff.
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# ? Aug 14, 2015 04:14 |
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This one got Explored on Flickr, I think having it in the "I shoot film" group helps a lot for some reason.
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# ? Aug 14, 2015 13:27 |
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Spedman posted:This one got Explored on Flickr, I think having it in the "I shoot film" group helps a lot for some reason.
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# ? Aug 14, 2015 14:21 |
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Parents sent me their old Canon T70. When I turn it on there's an erratically blinking "M" on the LCD, is this normal? Want to make sure before I waste money on film and stuff to try it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWE0r9770Xg
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# ? Aug 15, 2015 17:49 |
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akadajet posted:Parents sent me their old Canon T70. When I turn it on there's an erratically blinking "M" on the LCD, is this normal? Want to make sure before I waste money on film and stuff to try it. My Canonese is rusty, but I think this just means that the camera is in full manual mode and Canon wants to remind you of the fact. Press Mode and it should go away - you should be able to switch between the different automatic and priority modes from there.
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# ? Aug 15, 2015 18:54 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 03:43 |
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Yond Cassius posted:My Canonese is rusty, but I think this just means that the camera is in full manual mode and Canon wants to remind you of the fact. Press Mode and it should go away - you should be able to switch between the different automatic and priority modes from there. M mode is weird on these - it's doing this because you're in TV actually and have the lens not on A (that's how you set it to M ) - if you put the lens aperture ring back on A, you'll be in TV mode If you leave the lens on a manual aperture and hit mode+up youll be in AV If you put the lens on A and hit mode + up you'll be in P
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# ? Aug 15, 2015 19:27 |