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Zhentar posted:Check with you AHJ. If they don't have a website that lists it, call the building inspector's office. If none of that actually requires a permit, you have extremely lax code enforcement in your area; you've described at least four things that would individually require permits for me. It's so obvious and yet I needed you to tell me. I had quite the "duh" moment just now. Thanks. Re-pipe the plumbers already mentioned needing permits for that, and it's mentioned in their bids as I recall. You are right: 1. "Remodel of a building requiring: the addition or removal of all or any portion of a wall, window or door; or enlargement of an opening for a window or door" 2. "Window and door installation (if increasing or decreasing window size or installation in new location)" 3. "Electrical work, including: upgrade, repair or relocation of electrical panel; addition of a new electrical circuit; or extension of an existing electrical circuit" 4. "Plumbing work" 5.  Those were the ones I saw which were relevant to my job. Does this mean see how he reacts to insisting on a permit and walking away if he balks again, or just walk away now? I otherwise got a good feeling from him, and he said "you can pull one if you want, but I think it's a waste of time."
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Feb 14, 2016 23:19
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Walk away now. Why doesn't he want permits? Isn't his work good enough to be inspected?
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Feb 14, 2016 23:46
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Cakefool posted:Walk away now. Why doesn't he want permits? Isn't his work good enough to be inspected? That is what my gut was telling me. I'm going to go ahead and let him give me a bid then walk it up and meet the city to get to know them and the process. Then at least I have something to compare future bids to, etc. We copied all the permits for this house when we bought it, some of which are nothing more than abstract faxes-of-copies-of-microfilm from many decades ago.
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Feb 15, 2016 00:02
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I would be terrified that water is slowly filling up somewhere in a void or cavity in your walls. Can you look at the meter and see if you are using water with every thing else off? The meter should have a little spinner that moves when you flush or run a sink. If it's moving with everything off, cut the supply to the house. Also, might want to check again after it warms up. I had this fear too, but once it was like that overnight and there was no damage, I figured we were alright. The good news is, my crapper thawed and is operational again. The bad news is I have to figure out when it's warmer how to prevent that in the future because, what the gently caress, the house was at 70. Thanks for the tip, kid sinister, I already went ahead and manually filled the tank then unclogged the drain problem that my wife left me. She needs far more fiber in her diet.
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Feb 15, 2016 01:07
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Our kitchen has crown molding, our adjoining dining room does not, but we want molding. I can't find a match to the crown molding in the kitchen. What do I do? I prefer not want to pull down all the molding and start over.
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Feb 15, 2016 20:27
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wormil posted:Our kitchen has crown molding, our adjoining dining room does not, but we want molding. I can't find a match to the crown molding in the kitchen. What do I do? I prefer not want to pull down all the molding and start over. If you're going to have unmatched molding, then they can both run into a cornerblock like this (just happened to be the first google result I clicked). But I still think it will look weird. http://www.wayfair.com/Ekena-Millwork-7-3-4-H-x-3.13-D-Inside-Corner-for-Moulding-Profiles-MIC03X03BI-EKML5127.html
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Feb 15, 2016 20:31
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wormil posted:Our kitchen has crown molding, our adjoining dining room does not, but we want molding. I can't find a match to the crown molding in the kitchen. What do I do? I prefer not want to pull down all the molding and start over. Find a local milling shop, and ask about custom knives-- or ask what kind of equipment they have then order the knives for them. http://www.customouldingknives.com/ I needed some custom moulding a while back and only paid ~$50 for the setup then a relatively cheap price per linear foot. If you're committed to matching it's probably worth it.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:21
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wormil posted:Our kitchen has crown molding, our adjoining dining room does not, but we want molding. I can't find a match to the crown molding in the kitchen. What do I do? I prefer not want to pull down all the molding and start over. First off, that might be 2 pieces. My advice would be to stick a piece of paper all the way in the corner between the molding and wall, then trace it with a pencil. After that, get to work researching molding profiles. Worst case scenario would be to get a custom knife milled to make some more as others have mentioned.
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Feb 16, 2016 07:08
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I pulled down wallpaper and its respective glue over the weekend in our master bathroom. I'm having some issues with some residual spots, mostly where the paper was overlapping. I used one of the concentrates for removing everything but the left over residue doesn't want to come off. Any suggestions? I want to get everything off the walls before we paint. Another question for prepping the walls, should I sand the walls after I fill in holes, etc? I would also like to say that anyone thinking of putting wallpaper in a room should be forced to removed before putting it up.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:44
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calandryll posted:I pulled down wallpaper and its respective glue over the weekend in our master bathroom. I'm having some issues with some residual spots, mostly where the paper was overlapping. I used one of the concentrates for removing everything but the left over residue doesn't want to come off. Any suggestions? I want to get everything off the walls before we paint. Another question for prepping the walls, should I sand the walls after I fill in holes, etc? Wallpaper glue is like herpes, you'll never get rid of it all. You can try to keep using a wet sponge along with some more remover, but eventually you will reach the point of diminishing returns. Definitely sand the patches, unless you're superbly talented at matching the texture. Sanding the rest of the walls is up to you, depending on the finish you want.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:27
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I'm about to grout a bathroom floor and the boss wants a light colored grout (bone). Will also be applying a sealer to protect against stains (wow is that stuff pricey- like $30 a bottle). I'm wondering if the grout is going to get dark over time regardless of the sealer due to foot traffic. We don't normally wear shoes in the house but guests sometimes do. Will the sealer make it easier to clean dirt off the grout and keep the grout the original color? Thanks for any feedback.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:29
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kid sinister posted:Wallpaper glue is like herpes, you'll never get rid of it all. You can try to keep using a wet sponge along with some more remover, but eventually you will reach the point of diminishing returns. I've pretty much hit the diminishing returns. I've soaked some areas several times and it didn't do crap. Luckily the worst parts are in the corners, which lead me to believe it was overlap of the wallpaper.
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Feb 16, 2016 20:23
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calandryll posted:I've pretty much hit the diminishing returns. I've soaked some areas several times and it didn't do crap. Did you get off all the paper? Sometimes the paper can keep the remover from reaching the glue.
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Feb 16, 2016 21:35
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kid sinister posted:Did you get off all the paper? Sometimes the paper can keep the remover from reaching the glue. The paper itself was the easy part. There are just certain areas that are being completely stubborn. I even tried using the perforator on the left over stuff, didn't work. Sanding spots and it looks better/should be hidden.
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Feb 16, 2016 22:46
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calandryll posted:The paper itself was the easy part. There are just certain areas that are being completely stubborn. I even tried using the perforator on the left over stuff, didn't work. Sanding spots and it looks better/should be hidden. You might have taken off some extra paint with the wallpaper. Is what you're seeing actually the paint layer underneath the one on top?
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Feb 17, 2016 00:47
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After a pretty abnormally windy day, two asphalt shingle strips have fallen off of our roof. They're roughly 1' x 3' each, with half of the strip being much darker than the other (due to the roofing tar I guess). This is in an area where it never ever snows and rarely ever rains, so we likely won't have to deal with any water damage as a result of this. The rub here is that the side of the roof where they fell off is full of photo-voltaic solar panels. Not only am I having trouble identifying where any repair needs to occur, but I also don't know whether or not the entire system needs to be dismantled just to repair these two areas. All of the guides online suggest repairing damaged shingles yourself, but nobody ever mentions what to do if you have PV, and there's no way that I'm touching a live electrical system without professional guidance. Does the whole system need to be deenergized and disassembled in order to patch areas under 1 or 2 panels, or is it more likely that someone will be able to just disable one panel, remove it, patch under it, repeat? Each panel has its own microinverter, which makes me hopeful that we'll be able to just shut off 1 or 2 panels.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:46
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QuarkJets posted:After a pretty abnormally windy day, two asphalt shingle strips have fallen off of our roof. They're roughly 1' x 3' each, with half of the strip being much darker than the other (due to the roofing tar I guess). This is in an area where it never ever snows and rarely ever rains, so we likely won't have to deal with any water damage as a result of this. You definitely need to post a picture of the damage.
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Feb 17, 2016 07:11
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kid sinister posted:You definitely need to post a picture of the damage. Do you want pictures of the shingles that fell onto the ground? That didn't seem like it would be that helpful. Otherwise there's nothing to really show; there are solar panels covering whatever portion of the roof lost its shingles (unless some weirdo has taken to throwing shingles into my back yard)
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Feb 17, 2016 11:48
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calandryll posted:The paper itself was the easy part. There are just certain areas that are being completely stubborn. I even tried using the perforator on the left over stuff, didn't work. Sanding spots and it looks better/should be hidden. Have you tried using WIndex? I had some wallpaper trim going around one of the rooms in my house, and my GF read that spraying some Windex on it and waiting a couple minutes makes the glue come off super-easy. Worked like a charm. But, as said, it was just some trim around the top, not full wallpaper over everything.
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Feb 17, 2016 15:17
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kid sinister posted:You might have taken off some extra paint with the wallpaper. Is what you're seeing actually the paint layer underneath the one on top? The wallpaper was original to the bathroom. I was finding writing from the builders under some parts of it. I did some light sanding and you can't tell it was even there. DrBouvenstein posted:Have you tried using WIndex? I had some wallpaper trim going around one of the rooms in my house, and my GF read that spraying some Windex on it and waiting a couple minutes makes the glue come off super-easy. The next bathroom we do we might try that out. Luckily the other bathroom isn't as bad wallpaper wise. The master bath had visible seams along with parts coming off the wall.
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Feb 17, 2016 16:12
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calandryll posted:The paper itself was the easy part. There are just certain areas that are being completely stubborn. I even tried using the perforator on the left over stuff, didn't work. Sanding spots and it looks better/should be hidden. We're dealing with the same thing in one of our bedrooms right now. Stages so far: - Wallpaper itself. Peeled right off. - Backing paper. Spray on water, let it soak for a minute, scrape it off. - Glue. Spray on water with a little dish soap, let it soak, scrape it off. - Glue residue. Well into diminishing returns. TSP helped a little. I'm about to try Dif. Seems like most people remove wallpaper once, and then paint over it the next time they're faced with it.
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Feb 17, 2016 16:36
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QuarkJets posted:Do you want pictures of the shingles that fell onto the ground? That didn't seem like it would be that helpful. Otherwise there's nothing to really show; there are solar panels covering whatever portion of the roof lost its shingles (unless some weirdo has taken to throwing shingles into my back yard) Is there any space beneath the panels to get a camera like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908 under there? If you don't know the installer, maybe you could ask another solar contractor for help?
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Feb 17, 2016 17:53
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Captain Cool posted:You used the perforator on the glue? What does that do? This is a wallpaper perforator. Basically, there are little spiked wheels under the cup handle and you drag the cup all over the wallpaper. The spikes make holes that allow the wallpaper remover to reach the glue. They are very useful for thicker, waxier wallpaper that the remover can't penetrate by itself. What's worse is paint on top of wallpaper, on top of wallpaper. I had that in one bedroom in my house. I had to remove all of it because the wallpaper in the middle started peeling away from the wallpaper underneath, taking the paint on top with it. Luckily it was just an accent wall and not the whole room.
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Feb 17, 2016 18:17
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QuarkJets posted:Does the whole system need to be deenergized and disassembled in order to patch areas under 1 or 2 panels, or is it more likely that someone will be able to just disable one panel, remove it, patch under it, repeat? Each panel has its own microinverter, which makes me hopeful that we'll be able to just shut off 1 or 2 panels. From the safety briefing I got: You have to turn off the connection to your house. If you have a lot of panels, you should still have walking access to your roof. If the installer covered your entire roof, you will have to remove panels to make a walking path to the problem area. You cannot flip a switch and stop power generation at these panels, you gotta either do it at night without bright lights hitting the panels, or get a solar panel tarp that blocks all light to the panels.
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Feb 17, 2016 19:30
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QuarkJets posted:After a pretty abnormally windy day, two asphalt shingle strips have fallen off of our roof. They're roughly 1' x 3' each, with half of the strip being much darker than the other (due to the roofing tar I guess). This is in an area where it never ever snows and rarely ever rains, so we likely won't have to deal with any water damage as a result of this. Do you lease? Check your lease agreement. When NRG was here trying to sell me on panels I asked just this question and they said they would do all roof repairs under the panels for the lifetime of the lease. Pretty much they don't want homeowners swinging hammers near the panels.
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Feb 17, 2016 21:13
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Gounads posted:Do you lease? Check your lease agreement. When NRG was here trying to sell me on panels I asked just this question and they said they would do all roof repairs under the panels for the lifetime of the lease. Pretty much they don't want homeowners swinging hammers near the panels. Are you saying they will replace your roof when it needs it assuming you have leased panels from them? At $6,000 and up for a new roof, that seems like I am misconstruing things or a huge deal. Or do the panels extend the life of a roof that this is not an issue?
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Feb 17, 2016 21:47
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They claimed the roof wouldn't need replacing since it wasn't exposed to weather. This was the sales-pitch meeting, I didn't actually get them installed.
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Feb 17, 2016 21:50
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kid sinister posted:This is a wallpaper perforator. Basically, there are little spiked wheels under the cup handle and you drag the cup all over the wallpaper. The spikes make holes that allow the wallpaper remover to reach the glue. They are very useful for thicker, waxier wallpaper that the remover can't penetrate by itself.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:22
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Thanks for the crown molding advice. we are weighing our options.
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Feb 17, 2016 22:30
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Speaking of wallpaper, am I correct in thinking that it's a pretty big pain in the rear end to put up in a way that doesn't look like poo poo?
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Feb 17, 2016 22:56
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QuarkJets posted:Do you want pictures of the shingles that fell onto the ground? That didn't seem like it would be that helpful. Otherwise there's nothing to really show; there are solar panels covering whatever portion of the roof lost its shingles (unless some weirdo has taken to throwing shingles into my back yard) What makes you so sure these are actually from your roof in the first place? It seems unlikely you'd lose shingles under the PV panels but not from anywhere on the roof that's full exposed, I assume your entire roof isn't covered by panels. Unless you live in a very rural area where the next house is miles away it seems likely those aren't even your shingles but were blown off someone else's house or shed to your yard.
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Feb 17, 2016 23:02
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kid sinister posted:This is a wallpaper perforator. Basically, there are little spiked wheels under the cup handle and you drag the cup all over the wallpaper. The spikes make holes that allow the wallpaper remover to reach the glue. They are very useful for thicker, waxier wallpaper that the remover can't penetrate by itself. This is what I'm facing right now. Only it's the whole drat room, and the plaster underneath looks like it's going to need a skim coat, as it doesn't seem to have the finishing layer on it. Needless to say, I'm really considering lighting the place on fire instead of continuing with the "rip off top layer of latex paint/wallpaper, spray the next 2 layers down, let soak, peel/scrape" method.
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Feb 17, 2016 23:28
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Dr. Habibi posted:This is what I'm facing right now. Only it's the whole drat room, and the plaster underneath looks like it's going to need a skim coat, as it doesn't seem to have the finishing layer on it. If you're down to bare plaster, use a primer then paint. You should only need to fill any divots or nail holes.
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Feb 18, 2016 03:32
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Captain Cool posted:I know what a perforator is, but he said he already removed the paper, so I don't know what exactly is left over. I had remanents of the backing left over that refused to come up after repeated soakings. I ended up sanding down the pieces and once we paint I think it'll be fine. I did see something called kilz primer is it worth it?
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Feb 18, 2016 04:28
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calandryll posted:I had remanents of the backing left over that refused to come up after repeated soakings. I ended up sanding down the pieces and once we paint I think it'll be fine. I did see something called kilz primer is it worth it? Primer is always a good idea after you remove wallpaper. Kilz includes a few other things like fungicides which are a good idea if you're covering water spots. Even if that isn't the case for you, I think you'll have good results if you use Kilz.
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Feb 18, 2016 05:23
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Gounads posted:Do you lease? Check your lease agreement. When NRG was here trying to sell me on panels I asked just this question and they said they would do all roof repairs under the panels for the lifetime of the lease. Pretty much they don't want homeowners swinging hammers near the panels. They're owned outright The Gardenator posted:From the safety briefing I got: You have to turn off the connection to your house. If you have a lot of panels, you should still have walking access to your roof. If the installer covered your entire roof, you will have to remove panels to make a walking path to the problem area. Turning off the connection to the house is easy at least, there's a shutoff switch. There's walking access to various points on the roof, but if the damage is in the middle of a set of panels then I'll have to get someone to pull off several in order to get to it, which would suck Elem7 posted:What makes you so sure these are actually from your roof in the first place? It seems unlikely you'd lose shingles under the PV panels but not from anywhere on the roof that's full exposed, I assume your entire roof isn't covered by panels. This is a fair point. It's something that I even considered. They match the color of the shingles on the rest of the roof, and I wasn't able to identify a nearby house where they could have come from. They're also pretty heavy asphalt shingles, and while the wind was up that day it didn't feel like the kind of force that could reliably throw a couple of shingles very far. The two shingles were also right next to each other. Could have been a big gust throwing shingles from some other roof maybe, fingers crossed I guess. Only way to be sure will be to get a light under the panels, which will need to be done regardless, and I'm planning on doing this as soon as we have a less windy evening. I'll be totally happy if they turn out to not be our shingles. socketwrencher posted:Is there any space beneath the panels to get a camera like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908 under there? Yes, there are several inches between the roof and the panel, a camera like that would definitely fit under there. The contractor that installed it is a local business, I'm planning on giving them a call for advice Thanks guys
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Feb 18, 2016 07:23
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kid sinister posted:Primer is always a good idea after you remove wallpaper. Kilz includes a few other things like fungicides which are a good idea if you're covering water spots. Even if that isn't the case for you, I think you'll have good results if you use Kilz. No water spots but this is a bathroom so I'll pick up some just to be on the safe side before we do anything. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Feb 18, 2016 15:10
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The original killz primer is oil based and has a voc of 443. That means it stinks as it dries. If you can, buy the more expensive killz primers that have a lower voc. Most people are fine with a voc less than 100.
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Feb 18, 2016 17:03
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kid sinister posted:If you're down to bare plaster, use a primer then paint. You should only need to fill any divots or nail holes. When I get home, I need to take a picture of an area to show what I'm talking about. It's in pretty piss poor condition, namely from areas that seem to have been nail holes that slowly crumbled over decades. I'm not sure it'll look okay if I just primer over it, but worth getting some e-advice after lurking DIY for a year!
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Feb 18, 2016 19:45
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Got something crawling in the ceiling above my office. Sounds like a god damned racoon, but it's winter and I know how how these things can sound louder than they actually are, probably a heavy footed mouse. I have no access to that space. It's happened pretty much every year since we've been here, but usually, I can set traps with a bit of peanut butter in my attic, and the critters find their way over there and SNAP. Any ideas short of opening up a hole in my ceiling? My guess is I'm going to have to do that, might as well install a little access hatch in the closet ceiling too.
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Feb 19, 2016 01:55
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