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RMA
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May 18, 2019 13:11
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 21:25 |
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GAP (Get A Prusa)
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May 18, 2019 17:28
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So I may have made a terrible mistake and just ordered a 3D printer without consulting goons... I impulse bought an Ender 3 Pro. It should be okay right? I am an engineering nerd and want to make project enclosures and various fittings.
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May 19, 2019 09:05
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Yeah, a lot of us have Ender 3's. It's a solid choice with the understanding that it's built to a price point and lacks some of the niceties of other printers. I've found it to be a little more reliable than my Maker Select v2 which was the budget choice with some drawbacks before creality printers hit the mainstream. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 09:20 on May 19, 2019 |
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May 19, 2019 09:18
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You did better than me with the Ender 3. I ran out and got and Anet A8 and very well could burn my house down as a result
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May 19, 2019 13:15
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I have an ender 3 pro, and with careful setup it prints PLA wonderfully right out of the box.
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May 19, 2019 14:02
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To be fair, any printer that has trouble printing PLA--careful setup or not--is a piece of poo poo machine.
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May 19, 2019 14:39
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AgentCow007 posted:So I may have made a terrible mistake and just ordered a 3D printer without consulting goons... I impulse bought an Ender 3 Pro. It should be okay right? I am an engineering nerd and want to make project enclosures and various fittings. sleppy posted:... A bunch if poo poo about getting my ender 3 started... Hopefully this is helpful about where to start with your new printer.
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May 19, 2019 16:22
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sleppy posted:Is it four times the average cost just for the color? Yeah it’s just normal-rear end PLA, just three colors print at once. They’re also using nicer PLA for the source ($40/kg iirc) But the prints are so gooooood
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May 19, 2019 18:33
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ABS is... good? I spent the last 4 years listening to people say “Don’t bother with abs. Just use PETG for functional parts.” I’m glad I finally gave it a chance. The strength without flex. The layer adhesion. The consistent surface sheen. All the colors and cheap options. ABS owns.
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May 19, 2019 19:21
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I was really late to the PLA party, having stuck with ABS for a long long time. It's a great plastic and honestly I never noticed smell problems with it on my setup. But ugh god the shrinkage was such a pain in the rear end to deal with. Then again I have an enclosed build platform and properly heated bed now so that probably wouldn't be an issue any more. But modern PLA does everything I need it to so I've never gone back.
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May 19, 2019 20:41
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Speaking of PETG, does anyone have brand recommendations? I was just going to go with Hatchbox, since their PLA works well in my printer, but if someone has an idea for something better, I'm all ears. Just want to try it our for some cosplay armor pieces.
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May 19, 2019 23:10
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I used to suggest Makergeeks for filament, but the had a bad customer service stretch so I don't anymore. If you aren't in a hurry to get the filament, Makergeeks usually sends good stuff. Just don't order during a sale because they seem to have a hard time keeping up with demand spikes.
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May 19, 2019 23:57
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I used to suggest Makergeeks for filament, but the had a bad customer service stretch so I don't anymore. Even locals think they’re sketchy. https://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2019/02/12/3-d-filament-company-changes-name-keeps-f-rating-bbb/2847583002/ I’m pretty sure they stiffed some people in the whole weird “going out of business” thing. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 00:04 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 00:02
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quote/edit
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May 20, 2019 00:04
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Funzo posted:Speaking of PETG, does anyone have brand recommendations? I was just going to go with Hatchbox, since their PLA works well in my printer, but if someone has an idea for something better, I'm all ears. Just want to try it our for some cosplay armor pieces. Atomicfilament.com excellent filament on all fronts
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May 20, 2019 03:31
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3d solutech's petg is my favorite, and their pla (except the natural color) is hatchbox-tier
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May 20, 2019 06:02
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MP Maker Pro mk.1 arrived today. Put it together and found that the y-axis stop switch had gotten completely mangled during shipping. One of the screws holding the switch in sheared off, and the other was bent. Contacted support and waiting to hear back.  In the meantime I realized that my old printrbot simple metal used the same type of switches, so I just swapped one of those in. I did have a little bit of an issue with the z-axis motors binding, but was able to solve it by loosening the x-axis cross bar just by a little bit. I also had to tighten the assembly holding the wheels to the y-axis rails since the bed was pretty wobbly. I'm also trying to get the bed leveling figured out. I've been heating up the bed and hotend, then going through the auto-leveling procedure in the menu and then moving the hotend around to each corner to manually adjust the bed screws and then letting the auto-level do its work, but I'm still getting really crappy first layers. Any suggestions? 
TastyShrimpPlatter fucked around with this message at 07:46 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 07:35
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Looks like the nozzle is still too far off the bed.
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May 20, 2019 12:30
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Doing something really dumb at work today and that is to try and print a build plate for a replicator 2. All our acrylic plates are warped and my company won't buy new ones, which I don't blame cause a single glass one is super expensive because gently caress makerbot. I'm thinking anything printed on them will weld to the plate instantly, but maybe covering it with build tape will prevent that.
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May 20, 2019 15:51
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Started the RMA process late Friday when I saw the threaded rod damage, got a response today (which is like a four-business-hour-turnaround - like I said earlier, Monoprice's support is ridiculously good these days. Cannot emphasize that enough.) The response was basically "yeah we can RMA that for you but since you're still 30 days in, it would be faster to go through Amazon", so I'm giving that a shot. Sagebrush posted:GAP If I spent all that money on a Prusa I wouldn't have any money to spend on all these cheap Prusa clones!
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May 20, 2019 17:43
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Putty posted:Doing something really dumb at work today and that is to try and print a build plate for a replicator 2. All our acrylic plates are warped and my company won't buy new ones, which I don't blame cause a single glass one is super expensive because gently caress makerbot. Buy Flashforge Creator Pro spare parts and swap them out.
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May 20, 2019 22:56
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Prusa capitulates to Thomas Sanladerer, removes 3 from slicer name. Oh yeah, it's out of beta too I guess
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May 21, 2019 07:03
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It bugs me that he's bugged by the name and keeps calling it "slick-three-R" instead of just reading it as "slicer" like every normal person on the planet
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May 21, 2019 14:32
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Sagebrush posted:It bugs me that he's bugged by the name and keeps calling it "slick-three-R" instead of just reading it as "slicer" like every normal person on the planet I appreciate his German stubbornness. He did a vid on a CNC mill from a company that cutely named themselves Sienci and talking about it turns into a garbled mess
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May 21, 2019 15:11
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Hey biracial bear did you ever figure out how to lock down the bed better on the Maker Pro? I remember you posted about it ages ago and as I'm disassembling my busted one and prepping for the replacement I'm kind of wondering about it. This is just a curiosity, but does anyone run printers off of Raspberry Pis? Not Octoprint, I mean actually driving the steppers etc. I found a box from when I moved like three years ago and it had three different RPis in it.  Obviously it would be massive overkill for something that often runs off an ATMega but still.
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May 21, 2019 15:41
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The new software looks great. I'm new to all this stuff still but being able to do custom supports will be a godsend.
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May 21, 2019 15:45
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food court bailiff posted:This is just a curiosity, but does anyone run printers off of Raspberry Pis? Not Octoprint, I mean actually driving the steppers etc. I found a box from when I moved like three years ago and it had three different RPis in it. I am not an electrical engineer, but from what I understand, a pi doesn't have enough gpio to drive 4-5 steppers directly. The closest thing I've seen is a hybrid firmware called klipper that does most of its processing on a pi or desktop computer and drives the normal ramps-style mcu. https://www.klipper3d.org/
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May 21, 2019 15:55
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mewse posted:I am not an electrical engineer, but from what I understand, a pi doesn't have enough gpio to drive 4-5 steppers directly. The closest thing I've seen is a hybrid firmware called klipper that does most of its processing on a pi or desktop computer and drives the normal ramps-style mcu. If I ever finish my Voron 2.1.1, it'll run Klipper on a Pi for motion control, but pass off instructions to two ramps for actual stepper driving. Reports are that its as good, or better than a Duet for a fraction of the price. 
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May 21, 2019 16:45
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food court bailiff posted:This is just a curiosity, but does anyone run printers off of Raspberry Pis? Not Octoprint, I mean actually driving the steppers etc. I found a box from when I moved like three years ago and it had three different RPis in it. A Raspberry Pi isn't suitable for driving the steppers in a 3D printer or similar system. It doesn't run a real-time OS (unless you pick one of the very obscure RTOS Linux variants and build everything from the ground up). That means that you can't guarantee the exact timing of command execution, which means that the stepper drive pulses won't necessarily happen exactly when they're supposed to, which is obviously disastrous for a CNC machine. For motion control, a dedicated real-time single-purpose controller (like one of the standard ATMega boards) is the way to go. The RPi + Octoprint / RAMPS(etc) + Marlin system is ideal, and mixing the two just leads to a ton of headaches for no benefit beyond maybe saving 30 bucks on a board.
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May 21, 2019 17:12
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eddiewalker posted:If I ever finish my Voron 2.1.1, it'll run Klipper on a Pi for motion control, but pass off instructions to two ramps for actual stepper driving. Reports are that its as good, or better than a Duet for a fraction of the price. The way motion planning is implemented is pretty nifty. Adding S-Curve acceleration took relative little effort (it's a separate branch, available for testing). But also, because it's an iterative solver, there's a bunch of slicer side G-Code tricks that will not work well (say like linear advance computed into G-Code, like e.g. KISSlicer can do).
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May 21, 2019 17:24
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food court bailiff posted:Hey biracial bear did you ever figure out how to lock down the bed better on the Maker Pro? I remember you posted about it ages ago and as I'm disassembling my busted one and prepping for the replacement I'm kind of wondering about it. There are some socket head cap screws underneath the build plate assembly (where the rollers are) that can be tightened to make the entire assembly more rigid. They are located on either side of the bracket end that only has a single roller. Look at the X-axis assembly that the extruder rides on (on the back side) before flipping the machine and you'll see a similar mechanism.
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May 21, 2019 18:05
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The new Slicer PE is a lot nicer to use compared to the old one, even in just slicing and seeing estimates and dumping goods fast Still shits the bed trying to generate Archimedean chords 75% of the time though
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May 21, 2019 18:44
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If I was in the market for an affordable printer with a larger print bed then the standard 200mm x 200mm, is there any reason to not just get a Crealty CR10S? Is there something better out there for about the same price?
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May 21, 2019 19:18
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sorrry for a reddit link, couldnt figure out how to get the video by itself https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/bp0ifz/another_timelapse_of_thermochromic_filament/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x Some of that heat color changing plastic used to print Phoenix from X Men. The Time lapse part is really cool to see
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May 21, 2019 19:30
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Impressive model to be printed without supports. STL linked anywhere?
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May 21, 2019 19:34
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Sockser posted:The new Slicer PE is a lot nicer to use compared to the old one, even in just slicing and seeing estimates and dumping goods fast Negative, I just sliced a file with archimedean chord infill four times and it didn't crash once  And yeah prusaslicer is by far the best slicing program available and has been for several versions now. I'd happily pay fifty bucks for it. Literally the only feature in it that I still want is an option for perspective rendering in the 3D view (instead of isometric) and that's just a nitpicky personal preference thing. It does everything else perfectly. e: okay and a way of loading and interpreting an existing gcode file to see what's in it, but again, not really a critical feature. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 19:35
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B9 released a new resin made for printing out fine models for game enthusiasts as well as model train builders etc. Got a bottle of it and decided to give it a whirl, sculpted a hellboy face with some hair and ear detail as well as the horns to see if it got them all nice and crisp. Holy hell. This stuff is nuts, printed at 50xy and 20z:  I don't know what wizardry these SLA printers are using to get rid of the build lines, but especially in this case it works very well. Print took about 2 hours, as opposed to my normal hour ish.
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May 21, 2019 20:34
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Claes Oldenburger posted:I don't know what wizardry these SLA printers are using to get rid of the build lines, Optical physics. The extrusion from an FFF printer is a hard-edged cylinder*, while a laser spot (or the edge of a masked light source) is a nice smooth gaussian fade. That helps the layers blend into one another. *well actually it's squashed into a pseudodiscorectangular prism but CLOSE ENOUGH
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May 21, 2019 20:47
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 21:25 |
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Sagebrush posted:Optical physics. The extrusion from an FFF printer is a hard-edged cylinder*, while a laser spot (or the edge of a masked light source) is a nice smooth gaussian fade. That helps the layers blend into one another. I think mine is using a projector, so the light would still be in dots? It probably still applies though, I only know how to print gud, not the magic behind it haha. I read an article a while back about being able to scale brightness of the pixels to smooth prints but it went a bit over my head.
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May 21, 2019 20:59
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