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If you do need to remove more than the bare minimum of material, how would you deal with the combustion volume change? Take a little out the chambers while you're at it?
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Oct 26, 2014 00:00
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 00:07 |
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Turbo CRV and a $5000 NSX? Your friends have awesome taste. Dumb question... what kind of headlights do you have? They look good.
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Oct 26, 2014 18:53
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InitialDave posted:If you do need to remove more than the bare minimum of material, how would you deal with the combustion volume change? Take a little out the chambers while you're at it? Thicker gasket I'd think..
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Oct 26, 2014 19:01
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Turbo CRV and a $5000 NSX? Your friends have awesome taste. They are EBay 1 piece headlights, they were like $80 shipped. The stock headlights are 2 piece so there is usually a gap between the headlight itself and the turn signal. The fitment isn't perfect, but with a little bit of angle grinder they fit. He bought the NSX for $5k wrecked but with a clean title, he will probably be in it for $15-20k by the time it is done. The back of the car was hit. We found a wrecked NSX and pulled the rear suspension, pedals and driver's door for $2500. The previous owner of the NSX threw a rock through the windows after he crashed so those are getting replaced as well. The car is an automatic; we are either going to do the manual swap or a turbo k20 swap. He has a k20 already, so selling the c30 and trans would pay for everything to swap the k20 in including the turbo stuff. I could put a thicker head gasket in it, but I doubt they take more than a hundredth off. The only iffy part is between cylinders 1 and 2. If they measure that they will have to take a lot off, I'll have it welded and decked back flat.
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Oct 27, 2014 04:01
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 Head finally back from the machine shop. They said they took pretty much nothing off, but noted that there were signs of detonation between the cylinders.  Here you can see where the headgasket failed with the steam cleaned piston  That is where I am now, I ripped the paper gasket for the throttle body so I have to get a sheet of the poo poo tomorrow and trace a new one. Also get some more spark plugs. Once that is done I can put the rest of the car back together and get another tune. While the car was down I also replaced the battery with a Deka battery and moved it back under the hood since it is so much smaller. I'm still working on the wiring conversion harness for the s2000 cluster, I want it to be plug and play and I'm having trouble finding female EG cluster plugs for the dash harness to plug into. I don't want to buy the conversion harness from rywire or whoever sells it because it is like $500.
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Nov 2, 2014 23:54
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What are those things inside the water jackets? Some sort of reinforcement?
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Nov 3, 2014 17:09
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Yeah, the block is sleeved. I'm not sure how other motors look when sleeved, but generally Hondas have the cylinder support thing in the water jackets once they are sleeved. There are such things as block guards as well, which look similar but aren't as effective as actually sleeving a block.
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Nov 3, 2014 17:49
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Cool, I have never seen a car block go from plated to sleeved. When that is done, are the sleeves able to be changed out if damaged, like liners in large diesel engines? Coming from the motorcycle side of things, most aluminum cylinders with iron liners have to be machined away before an aftermarket liner or sleeve can be installed.
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Nov 3, 2014 21:55
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I'm going up to Virginia to get another tune on Wednesday. Hopefully it will make at least the same power, maybe more as this tuner is more highly regarded. At least I know he does driveability.
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Nov 17, 2014 22:10
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DefaultPeanut posted:Cool, I have never seen a car block go from plated to sleeved. When that is done, are the sleeves able to be changed out if damaged, like liners in large diesel engines? Coming from the motorcycle side of things, most aluminum cylinders with iron liners have to be machined away before an aftermarket liner or sleeve can be installed.
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Nov 18, 2014 04:48
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The car didn't blow up, again! It made 525 whp/325wtq with STD correction. Uncorrected was like 560whp but it was like 35F there. I had to leave the car up there because the tuner wasn't happy with the driveability portion of the tune and I had to make it back to NC for work. I'm hoping to pick the car up this weekend or next and drive it home so I don't have to spend another $150 in diesel towing it.
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Nov 21, 2014 22:46
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doogle posted:The car didn't blow up, again! It made 525 whp/325wtq with STD correction. Uncorrected was like 560whp but it was like 35F there. I had to leave the car up there because the tuner wasn't happy with the driveability portion of the tune and I had to make it back to NC for work. I'm hoping to pick the car up this weekend or next and drive it home so I don't have to spend another $150 in diesel towing it. Tuner sounds like a legit dude! By the way, what's you redline? I've started piecing poo poo together for the DA shell I traded for. I'm doing an lsvtec (keeping it low budget), going to pic up a b16 head tomorrow, I have the bottom end and intake ready. From what I've seen online, all I need is ARP rod bolts for 8k rpm right? Well, and a vtec oil pump and water pump. Any other (cheap) reliability mods I should do? Rods probably need to be resized after the hardware right? I'm installing megasquirt as I have an extra box, and it looks like the obd1 dizzy is enough for sequential fuel and spark, though I'll probably do just spark. I'm doing homemade itbs with stand off injectors, and probably direct port nitrous using the original injector bung holes (eventually). Should be pretty fun!
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Nov 22, 2014 05:41
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mafoose posted:Tuner sounds like a legit dude! I would go with ARP LS rod bolts, ACL bearings, and get the stock rods shotpeened and resized for the ARP hardware. Some people say you don't have to resize the rods, but ARP says you do and I'll take their word over some hondatech troll. If you are keeping the stock pistons I'd rering them as well, I'd assume that motor has at least 200k on it. That will give you a decently beefy bottom end that should rev to the peak power of the cams (~8200). If you just get ARP rod bolts I'd stay around 7500 to be safe, the LS rods are the next failure point after the rod bolts. There isn't a VTEC oil pump, but there are different oil pumps for different years. I went with the P72 stuff (ITR timing belt, water pump and oil pump). As long as you match them it will work. You will want to get adjustable cam gears because LS/Vtec doesn't line up 100% perfectly for timing. I'd also look into the hondata intake manifold gasket, ARP GSR/ITR head studs, a block girdle, and new OEM valve seals. Where are you located? I have a DA GSR cable trans (same gear ratios as the EF SiR B16 trans) with an ITR LSD in it. Edit: My redline is 10k doogle fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Nov 22, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 16:22
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Thanks for all the tips! A gsr bottom end with ctr pistons (and rod knock) just came up for $100. Gonna think about picking it up. Got a pr3-4 head today and an ITR valve cover came with it! Might be picking up another that needs a little work, to then sell or try and trade for a transmission (Honda kids love to barter). 10k? Holy poo poo! I bet it sounds amazing! Whichever bottom end I get will get new bearings, rings, and hopefully a machine hone. I'm going to see if I can take a couple rods to work, one with ARP hardware and one without, and see if they go out of round. Volvo guys claim their rods don't need machining after ARP hardware too, but we did do it to an old Zcar motor. Sadly I'm in AZ, and that trans sounds like it is worth a pretty penny. Need a backup head? Hahaha. On a side note, how much are you asking for it?
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Nov 23, 2014 08:12
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mafoose posted:Thanks for all the tips! If you get any b16 or b18c then you can rev it to 8500 without any modification safely. You should check the head to see if it is ported, might be an actual ITR head. They are just b16 heads that are ported from the factory and they all have the same head stamp. I'd check the cams too, ITR cams are easily identifiable from b16 or gsr cams. (http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/cams/)
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Nov 23, 2014 15:28
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The issue ended up being a bad injector driver on my ECU. I'm getting a replacement sent out to the tuner and I should be able to pick it up this weekend or next week some time as long as they ship it in a reasonable amount of time.
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Nov 25, 2014 05:15
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Was that the issue that killed the headgasket? Sadly both gsr blocks are gone. A b20 short block showed up with a bunch of ARP goodies in it put apparently it smokes real bad. Or I could just use the LS short block my friend gave me for free. Haven't gotten a chance to delve into the pr3 head, other than when I bought it. I did score an ITR valve cover for $30 LOL. I need to get something in the car so I can mock up the ITB manifold.
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Nov 25, 2014 07:44
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mafoose posted:Was that the issue that killed the headgasket? No, I bought a new ECU for this tune because the old one was throwing a code. The new tuner said that the issue was just the non-WOT part of the tune. This was just bad luck as phearable.net is pretty thorough in their testing of the ECUs they sell. They sent my replacement ECU out to the tuner with overnight shipping after talking with him. I didn't even have to pay a deposit. He got it yesterday so hopefully he can finish the tune this weekend some time. More good news, he said that because the injector driver was bad on the old one, he will probably pick up 20-30whp once he retunes it. I would go with a LS block over a B20 block unless the B20 block has aftermarket sleeves. B20 sleeves are different than any other b series honda motor and like to fail. I would hold out for a b18c1 or b16 block really, especially going with ITBs you are going to want to rev the poo poo out of it. You can do that with LS/VTEC but you'll probably end up spending more on parts making an LS/VTEC as reliable as a GSR or B16 block. The only reason I went with LS instead of GSR was that I had one from the DA integra shell I bought for the suspension on the EF civic. edit: If that B20 is smoking bad, I bet it has a cracked sleeve.
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Nov 27, 2014 17:29
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Sorry for the long delay between updates, here is where I am now: Good news: -The new tune was complete and successful, car was a monster. -Destroyed a 700hp CTSV Bad news: -The car started smoking so I decided to break it open again and check it out -At BDC of cylinder 2 there was a gouge in the cylinder wall, block has to be bored +1mm to get it out -In order to bore it that much the block will need to be o ringed as 85mm is the max recommended bore for my sleeves So that is where I am now. The motor is at the machine shop. I'm waiting for the new pistons to come in so I can get them ceramic coated. I'm going for a thermal top coat, anti-friction skirt coat, and oil shedding coat on the bottom of the piston. So the motor will probably be back together around the first week of January.
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Dec 25, 2014 00:31
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Are you ever going to get more than one run out of a motor before you have to rebuild it? I guess that's the cost of high-horsepower success. With small cubes, anyway.
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Dec 25, 2014 03:27
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I really think the issue was the first tune. It definitely detonated on that tune, and I should have gone through the whole motor then. If it blows up again I'd have to resleeve it so I'd probably just part it out and build a LS1 240sx like I should have to begin with. The only thing that keeps me going is how much fun it is when it works.
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Dec 25, 2014 06:46
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I'm dropping off the pistons at the ceramic coating place tomorrow, hopefully I'll get them back on Wednesday. The machine shop is ready to bore, deck, o ring and reassemble my block once they get the pistons. Hopefully the car will be back on the road the first week of January.
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Dec 28, 2014 23:11
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I got tired of not having a beater and after a 540i wagon deal fell through I ended up buying the cleanest '91 Civic DX hatch I have ever seen. Completely stock except for an aftermarket CD player and antenna (edit: and cut springs... I have some 2" drop lowering springs from the old EF I'm going to swap in). Very little rust around the tail lights. Even has the factory hubcaps. The paint on the roof and hood is pretty lovely, but who cares for $600. The interior is nearly flawless, the driver's side seat bolster is torn and the glovebox tabs broke so it is currently sitting in the trunk. Not bad for 230k miles. Even has AC!  The motor is the same one that was in my '88 EF hatch, a D15b2 which has about 3 horsepower and only 2 injectors (DPFI). I have a rebuilt D16z6 sitting at my friend's shop in plastic and I am tempted to swap that and the short geared trans into it, I could probably do it in about an hour. And that motor probably makes around 120. But right now I averaged 47mpg highway on the drive home.
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Jan 2, 2015 04:24
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gas is like 15 cents a gallon now or something so i guess if you drive it around like that and sell it in a year and do like an oil change or something you will have driven it more or less for free
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Jan 2, 2015 04:27
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doogle posted:I got tired of not having a beater and after a 540i wagon deal fell through I ended up buying the cleanest '91 Civic DX hatch I have ever seen. Completely stock except for an aftermarket CD player and antenna (edit: and cut springs... I have some 2" drop lowering springs from the old EF I'm going to swap in). Very little rust around the tail lights. Even has the factory hubcaps. The paint on the roof and hood is pretty lovely, but who cares for $600. The interior is nearly flawless, the driver's side seat bolster is torn and the glovebox tabs broke so it is currently sitting in the trunk. Not bad for 230k miles. Even has AC! Holy gently caress, score!
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Jan 2, 2015 20:25
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 Changed the oil and trans fluid, both looked pretty new though. I also ordered a stock antenna and found a glovebox to replace the broken one. For some reason one of the previous owners took the heat shield off of the exhaust manifold and didn't reinstall the fan for the AC condenser. I'm going to put those guys on when I get a chance since they left them in the hatch for me. The car is so much fun to drive since you are going flat out everywhere just to keep up with traffic.
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Jan 3, 2015 03:35
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That engine bay looks loving mint. It is much more fun to go fast in a slow car than it is to go slow in a fast car.
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Jan 3, 2015 04:46
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Slow is Fast posted:It is much more fun to go fast in a slow car than it is to go slow in a fast car. Quoted for truth. I definitely have a slow car, but it's still fun to drive in anger, and for a larger 4 cylinder, it's fairly rev happy (aside from the flywheel that seems like it weighs as much as the car). I don't think I've ever seen a Civic in that color either; seen plenty of Accords with a similar color (and it's one of my favorites), but if I've seen an EF with it, it's been long enough that I don't remember it. They went a bit overboard with the Armor All (or whatever shiney plastic shine chemical poo poo) on the interior though. Looks like they even hit the valve cover with it. I loving hate when sellers do that. All that out of the way, I'd drive the poo poo out of that, and keep it relatively stock (a D16 swap would be pretty sweet though!).
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Jan 3, 2015 10:04
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 I put some lowering springs on it which raised it up about 1.5" front and back. The stock springs were cut all the way down to the point that it was riding on bump stops. The car can almost go over speed bumps now, but at least I don't scrape on manhole covers. I also reinstalled the ac condenser fan, but couldn't find any 12mm bolts for the heat shield so I'll have to do that later. In other news, I'm helping out my friend getting selling off all his honda stuff to finish paying for the NSX widebody stuff. If anyone needs any 80s or 90s Honda stuff let me know and I'll see if I can find it for you before we junk it or throw it on craigslist.
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Jan 11, 2015 04:12
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I am getting the motor back from the machine shop Monday, I'll hopefully throw it in next weekend.
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Jan 24, 2015 00:09
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Update to keep it out of the archives: I have the motor and trans, it is too cold to work on the car, the EF is awesome and is averaging 38-42mpg per tank depending on how I am driving it.
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Feb 7, 2015 00:07
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That thing is loving awesome. I wish there were cheap clean cars around here.
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Feb 7, 2015 02:25
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 Block ready to be oringed. You can see the ceramic coated pistons as well.  Stock ITR intake porting  Back together. We will probably drop it back in the car this weekend. The only part I'm waiting on is a GM 3 bar map sensor, I've been running a hondata 4 bar but it no longer reads correctly. I've heard good things about the GM 3 bars for reliability so I'm going to try it out. BONUS:  I installed MFactory adjustable control arms on my 135i and got it corner balanced. Finally, no more wheelhop. The only rubber bushing in the entire rear of the car is the M3 subframe bushings. All diff bushings and control arm bushings are metal now. The good news is I can't hear the LSD whine in the cabin because the exhaust is so loud.
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Feb 19, 2015 18:48
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With the money you have wrapped up in the motor, have you thought of something like a Kavlico pressure transducer? Or even a slightly cheaper AEM one? If you do get a GM one, buy from a trusted supplier, as there are a lot of knock off Chinese ones floating around.
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Feb 19, 2015 23:28
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I haven't heard of a kavlico map before, but it seems that AEM rebrands kavlico sensors as AEM. Should I return this GM sensor and grab one of those? I'll ask my tuner what he recommends as well, he has seen a bunch of different maps fail, thats why he recommended an OEM GM sensor, they seem to fail the least according to him.
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Feb 20, 2015 01:47
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Kavlico makes absolute pressure sensors that work awesome for MAP, I believe they're used in high end EFI systems like MoTeC and higher end Haltechs, as well as in aviation.
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Feb 20, 2015 02:30
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I got the motor in the car, and everything is about 70% complete right now. I'm waiting on the MAP sensor to come in so I can wire that and I have a few other random wiring things to fix before the car goes back on the dyno this weekend. I didn't take any pictures of putting the motor in because you have all seen that about 3 times at this point. I did put my AP1 s2000 cluster in the car. Unfortunately the battery is at my house so there is no power yet, but everything is wired up and ready to go. I ended up buying a plug and play harness for it so I didn't have to do much other than the speedo healer and ECT module.  Sweet, all the wires are one color.  I should have just bought an Omni tach so the tach would actually read what the motor is spinning at (stock civic tachs read 400-700 RPM low above 7k RPM), but instead went the expensive route so I could have a digital cluster that is just as accurate.
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Feb 23, 2015 01:20
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That looks really good
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Feb 23, 2015 01:54
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I went up and got the car tuned, everything went as planned for once. I drove it back without any issues, I'm just putting some miles on it now so I can do the second oil change to synthetic. I have a couple more things to finish up on the interior and wiring front then everything will be 100%. Now it is time to find a cage builder in my area and start saving up for that. Rebuilding the motor (again) put a dent in my 'fun' money. In other news, I inhaled a bunch of fiberglass or something from a car's exhaust that was getting tuned before me and now I can't breathe properly and my sinuses are bleeding.
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Mar 2, 2015 18:27
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 00:07 |
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doogle posted:In other news, I inhaled a bunch of fiberglass or something from a car's exhaust that was getting tuned before me and now I can't breathe properly and my sinuses are bleeding. That...seems like "go to the hospital" time.
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Mar 2, 2015 18:38
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