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Liquid Communism posted:Grandpa's Axe is the modern telling of the Ship of Theseus. Yeah basically that. It's nominally your grandpa's axe because you keep replacing the handle or the head out of sentimental value, to keep using "grandpa's axe," and of course it's much easier to tell the story because an axe only has two parts (three if you count the wedge I guess)
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Jul 26, 2017 08:45
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This also applies https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUl6PooveJE
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Jul 26, 2017 09:19
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I had never heard that one before. Also, someone order some rust free metal?   Pictured: Both front inner fenders Both outer rear wheelhouses Both trunk weather seal channels/gutters Full package tray Full deck filler panel Both trunk floor extensions Dash channel/lower windshield channel 3 trunk floor plugs Full one piece trunk floor with braces. After I get this to the metal guy all that is left that I know of are the two lower cowl panels which are back ordered. Until freaking October. Which is okay because he will still be working on it then...
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Jul 26, 2017 23:11
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If your comfortable sharing, or even comfortable doing the math, i'd like to know what the bill looks like at this point. I mean, those full new shells are like $15k, you're nowhere near that yet, right 
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Jul 26, 2017 23:37
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Powershift posted:If your comfortable sharing, or even comfortable doing the math, i'd like to know what the bill looks like at this point. There are no new full shells for a 66/67 (that I could find) I could have done that if I had wanted a 68-71. That's also complicated because then it wouldn't be a pre-68 vehicle at the DMV which makes me totally immune to smog checks and inspections. That being said I know exactly to the dollar how much I have spent. I have no problem at all with you asking, I am tracking all of this. Do you mean total, just the metal, or a breakdown? I'm even tracking it down to separate tax, shipping, flatbed transport fees, everything. Today is also day 300 of the project! 
BitBasher fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jul 27, 2017 |
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Jul 27, 2017 00:46
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Please give the totals in number of craigslist miatas. Thanks
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Jul 27, 2017 01:33
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One thing I'm curious about is how accurate those stampings are compared to the real/original pieces. Do you know how much modification the body guy is having to make to them to make them fit right? Are you being careful to get things exactly proper, or is structural integrity all you're going for here? Reason I ask is that pretty much whenever I've read about people using these patch panels, they're subtly different from the real thing, or someone goofed with a year split and the part works right but looks wrong, or something similar.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:35
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Elephanthead posted:Please give the totals in number of craigslist miatas. Thanks What's the average craigslist Miata? Is that the automotive equivalent of "states of Maine" for land measurement or "Eiffel towers" for height? The total right now is $6,340.32 for raw metal alone and 19,237.29 for everything all in. This does not include the estimated 15k the labor on the metalwork will cost before it's done. Raluek posted:One thing I'm curious about is how accurate those stampings are compared to the real/original pieces. Do you know how much modification the body guy is having to make to them to make them fit right? Are you being careful to get things exactly proper, or is structural integrity all you're going for here? I don't rightly know, but next time I go down there I will ask him. He said beforehand everything needs a certain degree of work, more or less depending on whether the car needs to be truly straight or not. BitBasher fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jul 27, 2017 |
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Jul 27, 2017 01:41
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As the person not footing the bill, I proclaim that it's worth every red cent.
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Jul 27, 2017 05:36
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That's actually not terribly unreasonable for the sheer scale of work you're doing.
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Jul 27, 2017 08:26
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That's actually totally reasonable considering everything. It's still 10k less than what a guy I work with spent on a Polaris Slingshot and all he achieved was looking like a
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Jul 27, 2017 21:33
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Breakfast Feud posted:That's actually totally reasonable considering everything. It's still 10k less than what a guy I work with spent on a Polaris Slingshot and all he achieved was looking like a The Polaris Slingshot - the toe-shoes of cars. Brand-new shell availability nonwithstanding, if such a thing was available, you couldn't just buy one of those and slap the VIN tag from the old rusted sheetmetal on it for legal reasons, correct? Keeping the old body-shell-of-Theseus is reasonable from that perspective as well, emissions legal fuckery is an irritation all its own.You may want to put a new engine in it in ten years, and due to it being a 2017 model or whatever, you wouldn't be able to. I'm looking at getting a larger car to replace my e30, and seriously looking at something pre-1974 (cutoff date in Oregon) so I don't have to deal with getting emissions tested every couple of years and may do whatever i like with the engine.
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Jul 27, 2017 23:14
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Today I dropped off the metal I got in today and found out that they shipped me two inner a pillars but they were both left hand pillars, despite the boxers being right and left. Working on that non with AMD. Also dropped off my first 5k installment for the metalwork. When I was there I asked Raluek's question because I was curious myself: Raluek posted:One thing I'm curious about is how accurate those stampings are compared to the real/original pieces. Do you know how much modification the body guy is having to make to them to make them fit right? Are you being careful to get things exactly proper, or is structural integrity all you're going for here? In response, Danny pointed out the newest panels he had clamped up and was working on...   Hahahaha gently caress no they aren't accurate. See that ugly rear end gap between plates? He said those are about average, Those two parts are supposed to meet flush to be welded. Basically everything needs adjustment to work. Apparently this is why metalwork costs so much, and why he is a metal guy instead of just a welder. He has to work basically everything into spec. It is, however, a lot easier than if he had to fabricate those parts. Speaking of fabrication, he is going to have to fab a chunk of the external rocker panels too, because they flat out are not long enough, by like 8 inches or so? Also, remember when I said there was only a handful of metal I hadn't ordered? I just ordered them. Rear body panel inner braces, both package tray extensions, and both cowl side hinge panel lower reinforcements. All were actually needed. It turns out the latter piece, the cowl side hinge pillar reinforcements I thought were a part of the cowl side hinge panel, like a patch panel vs a full part. I was wrong, they are actually in addition to those, and reinforce the lower pillar where it meets the floor, to make essentially a double thickness panel. Neat! Theseus indeed! Liquid Communism posted:That's actually not terribly unreasonable for the sheer scale of work you're doing. Breakfast Feud posted:That's actually totally reasonable considering everything. It's still 10k less than what a guy I work with spent on a Polaris Slingshot and all he achieved was looking like a After this I have to buy and install, well, the entire rest of a car. Which I do not yet actually own. The upside of that? Definitely gonna have a start button instead of a key. And a backup camera. So there's that. boxen posted:Brand-new shell availability nonwithstanding, if such a thing was available, you couldn't just buy one of those and slap the VIN tag from the old rusted sheetmetal on it for legal reasons, correct? Right, tempering with a VIN plate is a federal offense. And being able to to totally retarded things with the engine and never having to talk to the DMV ever again I consider a big bonus. It's also worth noting that I had never seen Project Binkey before someone mentioned it up thread. I have now watched half and holy poo poo, that's awesome. Danny my metal guy had also never seen it but he got pretty excited with me giving it a bad description of it, so I'll ask him what he thinks of it later.
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Jul 28, 2017 03:42
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Get ready for massive DT's when you catch up
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Jul 28, 2017 05:13
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angryrobots posted:Get ready for massive DT's when you catch up Yeah, I was noticing the length of time between videos... So anyway, here's the latest update, similar to the last update but mirrored to the passenger side.            The weld up can't happen until I get the lower A pillar/hinge support reinforcement panels in a week or so.
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Jul 28, 2017 23:16
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The slight issue of the week is that the AMD factory is apparently loving up and putting left Inner A pillar Posts sections in Right A Pillar Post Section boxes. I have three now!  And I also have no Right A Pillar Posts which is getting to be a somewhat annoying problem. Waiting to hear back from them now.So this is where we left our hero, both cowl side panels and a pillars mostly replaced.  Not bad, not bad at all! I wonder what's next? Is it a little breezy in here or is it just me?     Aaaah, this looks a lot better. At the very least a lot more structurally sound!      The firewall has a lot more holes in it now than it will in the end, but we will take care of that later on...
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Aug 5, 2017 20:01
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It's been a month, I had to wait for some parts to come in and Danny moved shops, which caused an interruption in the middle. There is a milestone here which is that Danny thinks he has all the metal he needs to finish the entire rest of the car, minus the trim and bumpers he will need at the very end for fitment to make sure it's all straight. The remaining inner A pillar and the hinge panel to a pillar lower reinforcements on both sides were done in the interim but I don't have shots of those. Today's update is the replacement of the lower cowl panel upper section and the lower cowl panel lower section.         Next step is the big one, entire floor starting with the one piece trunk pan then the single piece passenger compartment floor pan.
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Sep 9, 2017 05:13
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This thread still givin' me goosebumps. I really can't wait till it's all done
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Sep 10, 2017 06:49
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Breakfast Feud posted:This thread still givin' me goosebumps. I really can't wait till it's all done Well, it's going to be the real life version of Project Binkey as far as completion time goes. Don't hold your breath! Metal work done before Christmas or so then we all settle in for a long nap while I save cash to buy the chassis which will be two and a half years or so. After that it will go much faster.
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Sep 10, 2017 17:02
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Ha! Talk about long term project
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Sep 11, 2017 02:50
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Smallish update photo wise No more junk in the trunk!   One piece, boom!     But there are new trunk floor extensions.  
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Sep 22, 2017 14:23
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Those are nice patch panels, wow.
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Sep 22, 2017 14:30
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This thread is so satisfying to read through.
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Sep 23, 2017 12:32
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Olympic Mathlete posted:This thread is so satisfying to read through. Yes enjoyable and the level of insanity is just right. I think I might do something like this, but then I think nah glad someone else is. Plus my thread would be here is the car bought, then 3 years later next post is here it is finished.
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Sep 23, 2017 13:58
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Elephanthead posted:Plus my thread would be here is the car bought, then 3 years later next post is here it is finished. Honestly Danny, the metal guy, is a big part of the reason that this thread has the updates it does. He sends updates every week or two and I just pass them on, pretty low effort. Hopefully after he finishes his end it won't fall victim to apathy!
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Sep 23, 2017 18:15
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Speaking of Danny, another small update from him. Last time the trunk floor came out and the extensions were still in but getting ready to go. This time the old trunk floor extensions have been have been cut off of the outer rear quarter skins pending replacement.      That rust in the inside of the lower lip on the left? I am told that apparently that's totally preventable if you pay a few extra bucks for weld through primer before you weld it up. Which of course the previous owner didn't do. Tomorrow I drop off the full outer rockers for both sides, which we are at the point of needing now since the main floor is happening (somewhat?) shortly.
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Sep 27, 2017 05:42
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Sometimes something can look okay but man it looks like poo poo when you get it to eye level. Like these rockers...   Good thing they are going away! Also the estimate is that we should be done with everything before the end of the year.
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Sep 28, 2017 02:52
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On a minor note today is the one year anniversary of the Chevelle Of Theseus. As it turns out I essentially bought a VIN plate, minor inner rear body structure and roof support struts. Wooo!
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Sep 30, 2017 01:50
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The vin plate is what makes it what it is, it carries the soul of the car.
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Sep 30, 2017 03:36
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Fermented Tinal posted:The vin plate is what makes it what it is, it carries the soul of the car. True, but in my case someone ripped out it's soul and lost it so I had to get a replacement from the Nevada DMV.  Anyhoo: Floor is half in, the back half. Oooo shiny...        The new trunk floor that is in it will get modified a bit when the wide wheel tubs go in. At that time the existing trunk hinge brackets will be re fabricated to make room for the ABC performance wide wheel tubs (Need those 335s!) and the rear outer wheelhouses will be replaced because they aren't in the best shape so gently caress em. Next on the general list is the full passenger floor which has the inner rockers connected, the outer rockers, rear deck filler panel, and full package tray. On the good news front the best estimate is for me to get it home by Christmas!
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Oct 10, 2017 06:17
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That's a ton of work, but you're going to have a hell of a nice car when you're done.
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Oct 10, 2017 11:16
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There's been a lot of progress just since the start of this thread. So metal. So mental. I love it.
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Oct 10, 2017 11:54
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EVERYWHERE 
Liquid Communism posted:That's a ton of work, but you're going to have a hell of a nice car when you're done. I'll settle for having a slightly lesser chance of dying in a wreck because it's not rested out and well welded. One can hope. The only stumbling block now will be not wrapping it around a tree. This will be the first car I have owned with 200HP or more (My Tacoma currently has 190) and it will be at 600-640 at the crank when the engine goes in. Let's hope I can adjust before I become a victim of my own stupidity in the car with zero driver assists in any form. Hah. I've driven up to 400 and it seemed like no big deal, so I don't think it will be an issue, it's just a though that has been recurring to me. BitBasher fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 10, 2017 14:09
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Good tires and proper caution. You're having power steering put on, right?
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Oct 10, 2017 14:20
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Liquid Communism posted:Good tires and proper caution. You're having power steering put on, right? Steering and brakes, yes. Absolutely. I also don't think I mentioned here that I spoke to an engine builder. Lisle, my paint guy, recommended him. Lisle apparently the nexus of all things automotive. Apparently there are two guys that really specialize in LS engines for the drag/racing scene here and this is one of them. Basically everyone told me that this guy uses junkyard blocks and builds them up from scratch into exactly what you want in a vehicle, he also builds and installs transmissions apparently. Much like Danny the guy has a waiting list for his services. I laid out what I wanted while he was showing me cell phone pics of his previous builds, ls3 blocks 1300+ HP, show quality aesthetics, nice looking stiff. I explained that I was aiming lower than that and he actually looked disappointed that I wanted to run only unleaded instead of E85 full time, then tried to pitch the idea of a second tank for E85 that I could switch to on command. He favors turbo instead of supercharging on an LS but will do both. He does one thing I thought was unusual, he converts all his engines back to manual throttle body instead of electronic as is the default for the LS3. He said that makes them generally more trouble free and reliable. He recommended against the Holley Dominator ECU, saying there was no real need for it and that it was largely a waste of cash for what it does, he said the control system that comes with the engine is actually pretty robust and works well. He would also install a grearvendors overdrive if I wanted it to make it effectively an 8 speed but again he didn't think it was necessary. His recommendation was to use an LS3 build stroked to 416 off the bat and leave it naturally aspirated for now, pair it with an 4L80 transmission would he would also pull and install. He said he would rebuild the tranny to be able to handle the power I want without issue, and that would fit under my car without a problem, only a little hammer work on the trans tunnel. His ballpark for the engine as a 416 stroker, transmission, and all accessories ready to go (Minus the gas tank w/fuel pump and fuel lines which I will provide) for the 10k area. This would give 600-650 at the crank naturally aspirated and according to him be essentially bulletproof. If I want more power later he can install turbo or supercharging for a relatively low cost as the components he will build it up with are robust enough to not need much replacement at that step if I choose to do so. He said he could put up to 900 or so at the crank on pump gas via either method, but they wouldn't be cheap.
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Oct 10, 2017 15:15
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BitBasher posted:True, but in my case someone ripped out it's soul and lost it so I had to get a replacement from the Nevada DMV. If you're not in the wrong part of the state and you want an extra set of wrenches/hands when it's back in your garage for work, hit me up. Edit: I have the '66 factory service/overhaul manuals, because they also cover my Corvette.
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Oct 10, 2017 15:42
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Godholio posted:If you're not in the wrong part of the state and you want an extra set of wrenches/hands when it's back in your garage for work, hit me up. "The wrong part of the state" is going to very wildly depending on where you are standing when you ask that question! I'm in Vegas. (Which is likely the wrong part of the state for anyone that lives more than hour north...) I appreciate the offer and I may take you up on it, but at this point I'm still probably 2-3 years off of actually putting in the engine and mechanicals. Saving for the chassis will put this project into a state of suspended animation for a couple years where I can only do minor incidentals like the wiring harness, pedals, door internals and such.
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Oct 10, 2017 16:00
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It's awesome you have a good network of guys to talk to. Don't be afraid to ask around though. You've got so much time before you need to commit to anything you may as well get a bunch of opinions. The roadkill guys are doing a "babby's first" engine build, I don't know what your level is but I'm really interested to see what they have to say. Caveat is I know nothing about anything so it may be teaching you to suck eggs. It's such a great build and I'm looking forward to seeing more!
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Oct 10, 2017 16:46
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For your desired power levels there is absolutely no need to do aftermarket EFI.
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Oct 10, 2017 16:49
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Wanting to stick with the 4 speed for any particular reason?
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Oct 10, 2017 18:28
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