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haha i was going to try to make it to PDX on the 2nd but i think the 9th just works out better, cause my e30 always has more poo poo to be fixed
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May 29, 2017 00:31
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Welp, today the post title tried to come true. New entry on my "poo poo to not forget" list:  Of course, the nut being in the sump is literally the best-case scenario. It could be anywhere along the cam chain channel, in the main timing gears... gently caress. Lots of progress, but I didn't realize (despite reading about it awhile back) until just now that the rockers are all on shafts that run the full length of the head. It is therefore neccesary to pull the head (or the engine, which I'm now 100% certain would have been the better call for this project) to change rockers. Whee! No dyno for me on Tuesday. I don't have a head gasket around. Or another loving oilpan gasket  Now that's out of the way, here are some things I did today:  Top end time!  All that is coming out.  VANOS unit separating from the head. This was pretty finicky but actually nowhere near as complicated as all the DIYs make it sound. I'm sure re-assembly is going to suck harder because of all the timing and alignment fun, but that's future HandlingByJebus' problem. gently caress that guy.  VANOS pistons separating from splined shaft in the cams. Pretty neat engineering, really.  A top end free of VANOS stuff and cam gears!  A small pile of take-offs.  More take-offs. The bag only has 27 cam journal cap nuts in it  loving nut snuck past this. I will probably never understand how.  Pretty naked head. Down to rockers, valves, and springs, basically.  A lot of the poo poo that came off.  Note to self: the one in the mirror doesn't count. Anyhoo, gently caress today, I'm going to bed.
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May 29, 2017 09:37
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When you do the VANO reassembly do you mind taking extra notes on doing the timing? I'm planning to do a VANOS rebuild myself soon but I'm ultra paranoid about having to do timing poo poo, I really don't wanna blow up my engine. Great progress!
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May 29, 2017 16:07
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YEAHHHH, that looks like a nightmare.
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May 29, 2017 17:11
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If you don't have the timing tools, get them before you put it back together. How does ABS handle the 996 calipers? Does it freak out or does it handle it ok?
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May 29, 2017 19:40
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RIP Paul Walker posted:If you don't have the timing tools, get them before you put it back together. I have the tools. ABS is totally fine with the 996 calipers, it just works.
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May 29, 2017 19:57
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Popete posted:When you do the VANO reassembly do you mind taking extra notes on doing the timing? I'm planning to do a VANOS rebuild myself soon but I'm ultra paranoid about having to do timing poo poo, I really don't wanna blow up my engine. The Beisan walk-throughs are really good - is there some detail missing from them that you'd like me to capture?
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May 29, 2017 19:58
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Welp, head's off. That was not a lot of fun, if I'm honest. Pictures later.
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May 30, 2017 00:43
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HandlingByJebus posted:The Beisan walk-throughs are really good - is there some detail missing from them that you'd like me to capture? You're replacing the cam bolts? I know you gotta use the camshaft aligning tool and that seems like a thing you don't wanna gently caress up. Basically I'm ultra-paranoid about missing a step and destroying my engine. Any steps that are absolutely crucial to pay extra attention too I'm interested in.
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May 30, 2017 01:19
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Popete posted:You're replacing the cam bolts? I know you gotta use the camshaft aligning tool and that seems like a thing you don't wanna gently caress up. Ok, I'll let you know what I find. I'm replacing the cam bolts, cams, rockers, head gasket, and a bunch of other poo poo now that I've got the head and timing cover off.
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May 30, 2017 03:17
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Motherfucking POs. gently caress this car's PO forever. gently caress the rear end in a top hat who did this to the head:  That's some kind of hackjob porting. I mean, I get what the person was trying to accomplish, but jesus loving christ, who leaves those kinds of visible burrs on a split like that? Overported to hell, too. I really don't know whether I should replace this head, or clean up the burrs and see how it performs. It definitely invalidates the tune that Evolve did for me. And the car was sworn up, down, sideways "bone stock, never modified" when I bought it. Of course.  Anyway, here's the status:   And the good news:  I retrieved #28. Thank gently caress.
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May 30, 2017 04:34
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HandlingByJebus posted:Ok, I'll let you know what I find. I'm replacing the cam bolts, cams, rockers, head gasket, and a bunch of other poo poo now that I've got the head and timing cover off. Yeah I don't mean to hassle you. Just if you have the desire to get some extra pics and note any particularities during the process I'd be interested!
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May 30, 2017 05:08
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Just get a new head. You know the one you have is hosed and you know that if you don't get a new one now, you will just regret it later.
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May 30, 2017 05:37
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That's loving horse-poo poo. Time to find a used head and enjoy a powerband given how large those ports are.
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May 30, 2017 05:54
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Over large, uneven and unfinished. What could go wrong?
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May 30, 2017 14:18
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Rather than spending $800 to replace $3 of ball joint boots, why not just buy some boots? Sure they won't be genuine, but you'll be able to find some that are either the right size to fit, or are generic but fit your car (there aren't that many variants of ball joint size out there). Even buying complete ball joints for your car at $30 or whatever each, just for the boots, will be cheaper.
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May 30, 2017 22:13
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:Rather than spending $800 to replace $3 of ball joint boots, why not just buy some boots? Sure they won't be genuine, but you'll be able to find some that are either the right size to fit, or are generic but fit your car (there aren't that many variants of ball joint size out there). Even buying complete ball joints for your car at $30 or whatever each, just for the boots, will be cheaper. New silicone boots is the plan. I took measurements yesterday and am ordering parts today. 
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May 31, 2017 00:17
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You had asked about oil pump nut somewhere, I asked around and everyone said best bet is ~25 ft/lb and safety wire.
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Jun 1, 2017 11:30
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Get a new head, for sanity's sake
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Jun 1, 2017 17:33
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everdave posted:Get a new head, for sanity's sake Unless you want to be hunting gremlins while tuning forever.
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Jun 1, 2017 17:52
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So per the other thread, I've confirmed that the head is stock. No poo poo - it left the factory looking like that. I'm still shocked when I look at the photos that (1) something looking like that left an M Division factory, and (2) that work was done with CNC, not by hand. I found the 25N-m torque spec for the oil pump nut per above, and that's where it is torqued; I didn't safety-wire it but I'm thinking of doing a dry sump conversion and / or 3.5L stroker set up in the future. Anyway, it won't be long before the sump comes off again, and I'll drill and safety wire the oil pump nut at that time. Thanks. Today I ordered Achilles valve guides / stem seals and Supertech valves + keepers / springs + stainless spring caps from the awesome folks at Achilles. Had a great chat with them about OEM diameter valves and VANOS vs. +1mm valves and VANOS delete, and they talked me into keeping the OEM + VANOS setup since I'm not planning to spin the motor to 9k5 RPM. "You can always do it later, when you really hate your wallet" was his comment. I like Minos, he's straight up and knows his poo poo. I've had a few recommendations for a local shop to do the headwork, so I'm going to clean up the burrs on the knife edges, do a little blend, and polish out the toolmarks on the intake ports myself; I'll have a mild port + polish done on the exhaust ports, have the valve pockets unshrouded, get the stems pressed, head hot tanked, and valvetrain assembled by the shop. I was thinking of lapping the valves myself just to have done it, but I think I'd rather let someone else do it just to avoid potential compression issues there. But we'll see, I do kind of want to do as much of this myself as I can. I've also ordered a fucktonne of other bits: complete cooling system refresh + aluminum rad; seals / gaskets for loving everything under the hood (including the front crank seal); a replacement for one of the PS hoses that got bent (I carefully shaped it back; it looks fine but I don't trust it now). I'm planning to send the injectors off for cleaning and balancing while they're out. I'm going to clean the pistons and block-to- head mating surface myself, will obviously tape off all of the oil and coolant passages first since the bottom end is still together. Any other "while I'm in there" jobs I should be tackling? Aside from the A/C system, everything is apart and / or out of the engine bay right now. Just the block, trans, the accessories I didn't unbolt, and most of the bits below the block. Since the entire exhaust is out, I completely removed the rear sway bar. I'm also looking at the adorable little diffuser in the rear and considering how I could replace it with a larger, much more effective one. That could be a lot of fun to build.loving cars. Just once I wish the scope of an upgrade project would be what I planned going in. Just once. Side note: chucking the stock exhaust bits in the bin at the transfer station felt both awesome and weird. Knowing how much they would cost to replace...
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Jun 1, 2017 22:01
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Ahh yeah, I remember the feeling of dropping those huge fat stock mufflers off mine and hucking them into the bin. It felt like how when you lose a bunch of weight and tell yourself "It's like I was carrying around a sack of concrete all my life".
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Jun 1, 2017 22:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:You had asked about oil pump nut somewhere, I asked around and everyone said best bet is ~25 ft/lb and safety wire. HandlingByJebus posted:I found the 25N-m torque spec for the oil pump nut per above, and that's where it is torqued Hey uh I just wanted to point out that these are not the same thing
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Jun 1, 2017 23:03
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Raluek posted:Hey uh I just wanted to point out that these are not the same thing An excellent point, thanks. I've gone by this from the FSM:  I measured the thread and bolt; it's definitely M10x1 and not M10 (which would typically be a 1.5 pitch, I believe), and my engine is an S54 rather than one of the other options listed, so 25N-m is the correct specification for my oil pump. I did use Loctite red, and it won't be all that long before I drop the sump again. When I do, I'll safety wire it also.
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Jun 1, 2017 23:22
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I still remember (despite reading multiple times it was LH thread) trying to loosen off the oil pump nut the normal direction on my S52. I'm surprised I didn't shear the fucker off.
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Jun 2, 2017 01:15
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I'm not enough of a car guy to get everything you're doing here but the Z4M is a gorgeous car and seeing the insides of one is rad!
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Jun 2, 2017 05:16
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The head is really factory looking like that? Wow. Glad you researched.
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Jun 2, 2017 05:34
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HandlingByJebus posted:I found the 25N-m torque spec for the oil pump nut per above, and that's where it is torqued; I didn't safety-wire it but I'm thinking of doing a dry sump conversion and / or 3.5L stroker set up in the future. Anyway, it won't be long before the sump comes off again, and I'll drill and safety wire the oil pump nut at that time. Thanks. Hell yes  25ft/lb vs N/m poo poo my bad, you went with the right spec (N/m)
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Jun 2, 2017 08:31
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HandlingByJebus posted:So per the other thread, I've confirmed that the head is stock. No poo poo - it left the factory looking like that. I'm still shocked when I look at the photos that (1) something looking like that left an M Division factory, and (2) that work was done with CNC, not by hand. Holy poo poo, that's incredibly crap.
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Jun 2, 2017 09:20
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HandlingByJebus posted:So per the other thread, I've confirmed that the head is stock. No poo poo - it left the factory looking like that. I'm still shocked when I look at the photos that (1) something looking like that left an M Division factory, and (2) that work was done with CNC, not by hand. I was going to say, I could have sworn that I've seen others looking like that. Seriously, for one of the only companies that sold stuff with Proper port geometry, they sure do everything in their power to gently caress it back up again...
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Jun 2, 2017 15:29
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Just dropped the head and valvetrain bits (Supertech intake / exhaust valves, Supertech springs, retainers, Achilles guides and seals) with the machine shop. Had a great S54 chat with the owner, thankfully discussed the bottom end. I guess I'm tearing the sump off again and pulling everything out to bring it in, or just bringing in the bottom end. Fucksake. poo poo just keeps getting more expensive. Oh well, it's going to be awesome. Some day. e: doing this because changing rod bolts almost certainly changes the roundness of the rods due to the split forged nature of stock rods. So maybe gently caress it, Carrillo rods? Ugh.
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Jun 6, 2017 03:05
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mekilljoydammit posted:I was going to say, I could have sworn that I've seen others looking like that. Seriously, for one of the only companies that sold stuff with Proper port geometry, they sure do everything in their power to gently caress it back up again... They also put enough money into development that the heads no doubt spent some time on a flow bench, and if engine masters has taught us anything it's that what helps and what hinders doesn't always follow human logic. They probably determined the time and effort in polishing or smoothing the bores didn't produce a meaningful difference in airflow.
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Jun 6, 2017 04:27
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Does your machine shop have a flow bench? If not you could send it somewhere that does and see how they do.
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Jun 6, 2017 05:14
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jamal posted:Does your machine shop have a flow bench? If not you could send it somewhere that does and see how they do. They do. They also have 3 S54 heads in for work right now, along with a pair of S50 Spec E36 engines. Dude knows these motors reasonably well.
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Jun 6, 2017 07:33
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Powershift posted:They also put enough money into development that the heads no doubt spent some time on a flow bench, and if engine masters has taught us anything it's that what helps and what hinders doesn't always follow human logic. You know, for as cheap as flowbench time is in OEM terms, it's amazing how much absolute poo poo gets sold. http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/imported/2010/12/242.jpg <-- doesn't like hotlink, just click it, whatever. Found this through the googles. I find it interesting that the 2.5 I4 Duratec flows more on about the same bore... march of progress, eh? But I bet the S54 has great tumble.
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Jun 6, 2017 15:56
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And so the wallet hatred continues! For those keeping track, yes, I could absolutely have paid for a full LS swap at this point. I don't fuckin' care. This is going to be one of the M-est Z4Ms ever and that's worth something to me.  Ordered a set of Molnar rods on the advice of my engine builder, and the ARP main bolt kit. Since I'm pulling the block to bring it in for rod sizing &c, I ordered a Clutch Masters aluminum flywheel and spring-hub kevlar disc clutch. Ordering a rear main seal now too. Might as well do it while I'm in there... So this project has gone completely sideways, but kind of in the most awesome way possible. It's now unlikely that I'll make any track / autocross sessions in July, but I'm shooting to make the track day I've got booked in August. I think the car's going to be very interesting to drive when this is done. Glad I did the brakes.
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Jun 6, 2017 20:26
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In before it turns into an S85 swap... 
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Jun 6, 2017 20:27
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Holy moly you're mental haha
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Jun 6, 2017 20:28
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Bape Culture posted:Holy moly you're mental haha What's the thing your people say? "In for a penny, in for a pound..." This absolutely, 100%, without doubt, a good money after bad situation. gently caress it.
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Jun 6, 2017 20:34
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 16:22 |
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So, the place I ordered the Molnar rods from is out of stock, and it appears that everybody (including Molnar) in North America is, too. I'd like to avoid a 3-4wk wait for manufacturing. Anybody have an opinion on the SP rods that VAC carries? Or, anybody know a vendor that actually has stock on the Molnar S54 rods? I can't really justify Arrow or Carrillo rods at their $1,500-$1,900 price point.
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Jun 7, 2017 01:01
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