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Last night I did the front brakes and changed the brake fluid. No pictures because I left my phone at home and was doing the work in my friend's garage. It could have gone better, but it also could have gone a lot worse. Every time I do work on the underside of the Impreza I am reminded how much easier it is to work on the SVX. Everything was either overtorqued by an old shop or is seized. Getting the old rotors off involved smacking them with a mallet until they would move. The caliper bracket on the front right side is completely hosed, I spent like an hour trying to get it threaded in right before I took everything apart and compared the threads, the threads on both the bolts and the housing are trashed. I ended up getting it back on the knuckle with an impact wrench and a lot of force but I'm sure that just made it even messier. I guess on the bright side the knuckle part doesn't have any threads, just a straight hole, so I won't have to replace anything other than just the caliper bracket when the time comes, if it ever does with this car. The biggest issue right now is also thread-related, but it's the threads on one of the wheel studs on the front left side. I tried a handful of different lug nuts, none of them would go on more than 1/3 of the way. Early last year all five of the lug nuts on that wheel either came loose or were loosened by someone for some reason, and the studs all got chewed up pretty badly by the time I figured out what was going on. Probably best to do all of them while I'm at it, but right now I'm on 4/5 lug nuts on one wheel which is not okay. I feel like I might have done an imperfect job bleeding the brakes, the internet said 1/8" ID 1/4" OD tubing for the bleeder valves but I think I would have been better served by 3/16" ID, I don't think I had the best seal. The brakes work, but they don't bite as early as I was expecting. Might also be related to the compound of the brakes, but I got normal daily driver brakes, not any kind of high temperature race compound. The fluid that is in there is clean though, so that's good, maybe next time I've got the car in there I can get my friend to pump the brakes while I work the bleeder valve. Strange quirk of this car: The whole "turkey baster in the reservoir" thing does not work. At all. There's a sieve/filter in the neck of the reservoir, and when I pulled that out I found some weird kind of bobber in the middle that would go up and down maybe a half an inch but I couldn't get it out, and all of the actual brake fluid is underneath that. So instead I ended up filling the reservoir, pumping the brakes, rinse and repeat until I eventually had clean fluid.
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Jan 26, 2022 03:15
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The bobber in the brake reservoir holds a magnet to trip the low fluid sensor. It *should* be removable, by pulling straight up - it just slides on a couple of ridges in the sides of the reservoir - but I can't swear that will work, as I've not tried it on an SVX, or even my own Outback. On the stud, if it's not too chewed up, you can use a thread chaser of the appropriate size (basically, a threading dies, but designed to be wrenche-operated, and usually having a bit looser fit than an actual threading die) to clean up the threads. Otherwise, replace it. Might be worth getting a tap set to rethread the holes in that caliper bracket, too, after getting new bolts. I'm assuming that the brackets are difficult to get because they're bespoke SVX, but that may not be true.
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Jan 26, 2022 21:57
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Oh this was work on the '99 Impreza, I guess I wasn't clear on that. So parts availability isn't an issue, I can order just about anything to the parts store and there's multiple of this generation in each junkyard in Denver at any given time. I tried chasing the threads in the bracket with a tap set but it still didn't work right and I didn't have anything that would fit the bolts so that's when I resorted to pressing the caliper housing against the knuckle super hard while driving the bolt in with an impact.
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Jan 27, 2022 02:37
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Caliper bracket threads might be salvaged with a helicoil kit. Depends on how wrong the bolt that messed them up was.
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Jan 27, 2022 13:55
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I'm ordering the parts for the SVX today, I realized that even if I won the bad luck lottery and the valves and pistons are messed up from the timing belt, it's probably better to have it rebuilt than to buy one out of a car that's getting parted out that will probably have more than twice the mileage on it. Related question, how do I tell if the car skipped timing, and if it did how do I line timing back up? I looked at a video and the guy has a computer that gets the waveform of the ignition coil's cycle and the cylinder's compression and overlays the two so he can see how far off of TDC the coil is firing, I do not have that kind of equipment. I'm thinking I'm going to bite the bullet and pay for the local shop to do the timing belt on my Impreza, I'm on borrowed time on that and I can't risk something going wrong on that big of a fix and being stranded. I still need to double-check to make sure they checked the health of the engine itself though because this is the what the piston surfaces looked like through the borescope. Piston 1 was an anomaly, it looked dirtier than the other three. Cylinder 1:  Cylinders 2, 3, 4: 
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Jan 31, 2022 17:58
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Pretty much you do the second half of a regular timing job, you set the pulleys all to the right angle and put the belt on. If the cam pulleys aren't on the correct angle already you have to make a judgement call on whether it's more risky to turn them or the crank to the correct spot first. My guess would be do the cams first and be very gentle, any sign of the valves touching pistons and back it off and reconsider. Normally the cams will naturally find their way to the lowest potential position (as many valves closed as possible on that head) which is usually also the belt change position, but not always. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Feb 1, 2022 |
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Feb 1, 2022 05:29
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I’ve got the new studs on the Impreza, but I’m not sure I have time to do the CV axle to remediate the torn inner CV boot before next weekend, when I’ll be driving about 500 miles. How can I tell how bad the joint is? I’ve got a thoroughly torn boot but I don’t know how long it has been like that aside from “less than 10k miles” which is not very specific.
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Feb 6, 2022 00:24
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Joint will need rebuilt if it clicks around turns. If it isn't doing that yet you can probably get away with cleaning, greasing and rebooting.
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Feb 6, 2022 15:46
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I already bought a new axle, my policy with CV axles, especially with how much I drive on dirt roads and this time of year have mag chloride or grit flying up off the road, is that by the time I've noticed the problem, it has most likely been damaged. Maybe that's overly conservative, IDK. But it's a job I would rather spend a bit more money on rather than doing it a second time because it's an annoying one. I hosed up yesterday and didn't torque down the tone ring hex screws enough, coming home I had a bit of stuttering on the brakes for a little bit and then the ABS light came on, so I definitely need to fix that before next weekend. It's not hard, it's just annoying. I'm hoping that I didn't completely lose any of the screws, but I won't be able to tell until I get the rotor off. Does anyone have a trick to keep the piston on a brake caliper from pushing the pad in when you pull it off the rotor? Maybe if I find a similar-width piece of material to shove in between the pads to hold them in place?
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Feb 6, 2022 20:12
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
I have never had this happen, ever.  If you don't hit the brake pedal there shouldn't be any pressure pushing the pads out.
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Feb 7, 2022 00:19
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Yeah, I mean at the worst, pull the top off the fluid reservoir?
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Feb 7, 2022 00:41
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Well that's concerning then. I had just opened up the bleeder valve to squish the piston in, but as soon as I close the valve it starts pushing out again. Guess it's time to google "Why is my brake system pressurized"? E: Okay that was a terrible search term given that it's supposed to be pressurized, just I guess not as much as it is? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Feb 7, 2022 |
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Feb 7, 2022 05:49
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Unlikely but possible, old soft lines can get a tear inside them that will act like a 1 way check valve. Pressure goes past ok but can't release. Option b maybe something pushing on the pedal like wiring. If you jam a 2x4 under the pedal to hold it up does the piston still try to push the pad out?
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Feb 7, 2022 15:06
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I was writing a response and then a few things clicked to make me think there might be a possible root cause. The piston pushing out (that I noticed), the studs needing replacing, and slightly more brake wear when I did them a week or two ago all occurred on the corner that got smashed up when I totaled the car on black ice back at the end of 2017. I hit a curb in my work's driveway and turned the control arm into a taco, tweaked the tie rod to the point it needed replacing, and I suspect also tweaked the crossmember a little bit but not to the point it can't get into alignment. A new crossmember is on my "replace if I have to take it off" list, but anyway, could there be a tear like that caused by the crash that would cause a small amount of pressure built up? Like not to the point where it would feel like full on brake force but would apply a little bit of pressure to cause that premature wear. Is there anything similar I should look at with the hard lines in that area? Although if I'm thinking about this right there might not be any hard lines in the area, I'll need to check. E: I'm pretty sure that it was pushing out even once I just opened the bleeder, squeezed the piston in, and closed the bleeder, but it's entirely possible that I'm just an idiot because I just remembered that while I had the caliper off I tried to apply the brakes so the axle would stop spinning. I'll be re-torquing the tone ring tomorrow so I'll check again then. The uneven wear I mentioned definitely wasn't premature (one pad out of four was almost to the squealer at about 70k miles on them, the rest had maybe an extra nickel's thickness), so I might be inventing problems where they don't exist. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 8, 2022 |
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Feb 7, 2022 23:47
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Okay, I had to pull the brakes to re-torque the tone ring and the piston didn't push out so no longer concerned. What is concerning is that now the ABS light is permanently on. I did have one tone ring bolt shear, but there's no motion thanks to the other 4 being in place, is that potentially the cause? I'm also pretty loving proud, while I was working I replaced my CV axle in 30-45 minutes, I got the roll pin in around the same time my exhaust was no longer warm to the touch. This is the fourth one I've done, the first one took days and I eventually had to call in reinforcements, the second took days but I got it done by myself, the third took about 5 hours, I got this one in less than an hour.
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Feb 10, 2022 06:20
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The weather is finally starting to let up to the point I can work outside again. It looks like I didn't order the front engine seals for the SVX, has anyone replaced them before? It looks like it would just be the front crank seal, the two cam seals, and then the stuff the water pump needs that I already have. The manual says to remove the power steering pump, is that needed? It seems like it wouldn't be as long as I still removed the v-belts but I could be wrong. It also seems like having the timing belt covers off and the belt out of the way would be the easiest way to get to the valve cover gaskets, is that accurate? This seems like a job with a whole lot of "while I'm in here" involved.
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Feb 10, 2022 23:33
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The weather is finally starting to let up to the point I can work outside again. It looks like I didn't order the front engine seals for the SVX, has anyone replaced them before? It looks like it would just be the front crank seal, the two cam seals, and then the stuff the water pump needs that I already have. From what I remember there's two cam seals behind the sprockets, two cam plugs for the upper cams, and the oil pump seal
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Feb 11, 2022 22:07
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Good catch, I didn’t even think of the oil pump seal. Is that rubber or metal, though? I thought the secondary cams that don’t engage the belt wouldn’t poke out the front to need a seal but maybe they do after all.
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Feb 12, 2022 15:22
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Okay, well, after not hearing a peep from the dealership that I was going to buy parts from to make sure I got everything, I just ordered the parts you listed off RockAuto, so hopefully this works out. I'd really like my driveway back.
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Feb 19, 2022 22:33
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loving FedEx delays, the parts were supposed to get here Thursday and instead will be here Monday, when I’m leaving town for a couple days Tuesday. The biggest insult is that the parts for my Impreza I ordered were in another shipment and got here on Friday but I don’t want to do the rack and pinion bellow until I have the SVX done because that has enough parts that can accidentally get broken at the same time that I don’t want to risk it when I need to take the Impreza somewhere on Tuesday.
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Feb 27, 2022 21:19
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A bit of fun on the Impreza. The retaining clip for my hood prop finally gave up the ghost, so I 3d printed a new one. Just got it in and it seems like it should hold well, we'll see. It kept bouncing and hitting one of the pulleys and grinding so I really needed to get it fixed ASAP and this option is a lot nicer than duct taping it back every time I open the hood. I'll try to remember to take a picture tomorrow. I've also got a pretty huge update coming up that is going to take a while, I hope I can remember to take enough pictures. I keep forgetting because I get busy with work.
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Feb 28, 2022 03:52
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Welcome to another episode of shitbox garage, this time with pictures! A while back I dropped a friend off at DIA, and it was time to go and pick him up again. But in exchange for the ride, he was going to help me out with something. I hit the road straight after work, first stop: the bank. I was going to need some cash.  My dad’s farm is out near Denver, and I stop there before my friend’s flight gets in at midnight. Because I’m sentimental, a masochist, and tired of not having anything to haul big poo poo around or handle foot deep snow, here’s my new project:  1992 Chevrolet K1500 Silverado, extended cab, extended bed, 350 cubic inch throttle body injection engine. My dad owned this since I was ten years old, dailied it until about 2014-2015, and it has been a farm truck since. Recent work includes a transmission/transfer case rebuild, replaced rear axle, and new radiator. It’s a fixer-upper so dad sold it to me for $750. I came loaded for bear with an ozone generator, supplies for an oil change, oil filter adapter gasket, new PCV valve and hose, seafoam, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and brake pads. I don’t have the light to do anything but plug in the ozone generator, though, so I catch up with my dad a bit and then gently caress around on the internet until it’s time to pick my friend up from the airport. We get back to the farm at 3AM after a midnight Denny’s stop and some delays, and by 7AM we’re up and at it. First up, the battery is super loving dead, <1 volt on my Fluke. We kill time by removing mouse nests and trying to avoid hantavirus     Somehow I don't think this worked. Head into town, pick up a new battery, try to figure out where the gently caress the keys are. Spoiler: they were in the truck, it’s just that for some reason GM keys of this era were smaller than house keys so we didn’t think they were the right keys. I expected most of the day to be fixing mechanical issues, but it ended up being cleaning out mouse nests and feces. The radiator was also incredibly low and the overflow tank dry, so thankfully there were a ton of fluids in the toolbox. Which is never a bad sign at all, as you know.  Pictured: the nastiest cocktail of antifreeze I have ever seen, a flush is needed. While we’re waiting to hear back from my dad on where the keys are we head into town again to return the battery core and get some lunch. Then back out to the farm, try the keys that we were told were the right keys, and it fired right up. No stumbling, no misfires, no overheating. The engine was full of completely fresh oil, so we put trash bags over the seats and took it for a spin. Dear Lord was the steering loose. The rear brakes are hitting the squealers, but they bite okay so we decide to save the brake job for when we’re in a garage. Take it back, check the tire pressure, and it was sitting at 25PSI instead of 50. That would explain some instability.  Even more cleaning of the truck, and my dad gets home from work. We chat and catch up some more, check the oil again, and it’s down a quart from half an hour of driving and idling. Well, that’s why I got that oil filter adapter gasket. My dad had to pull the 90 degree oil filter adapter when he was replacing the radiator and it started leaking after that. The thing is a huge pain in the rear end to get off and on, and I’m grateful for my impact and extension because the whole thing is wedged up behind the front driveshaft. Pull it, get sludgy oil all over myself, clean off the gasket surface, pop the new one on, and not a drop comes out. At this point we’re losing the light and it’s running like a champ without any of the parts I brought aside from a new PCV hose and air filter, so we head back up the mountain. A thorough scrub of the windshield and nearly $100 in gas is required, because the windshield is loving filthy. I also use some Rainx inside the windshield cleaner I have in an attempt to get rid of the dirt that accumulated on the inside. We get home with little fanfare, the truck handling the steep hills surprisingly well given the poor reputation for power the TBI 350s have. Next up: Even more loving cleaning.
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Mar 14, 2022 23:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
Counterpoint: it did, and would have been so much worse if it wasn't there? Who knows? Those TBI 350s ain't nothing special, but they just sort of keep going, and aren't dismal. Those GMT400s are fine. pretty simple, therefore pretty solid and reliable. And just old enough that pretty much every part is cheap and available.
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Mar 16, 2022 00:16
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Yeah, that has been my experience so far. I don't want anything special, I've already got weird in the SVX. I just want something that can haul building supplies and tow a trailer if need be, drive in deep snow, and do it with minimal upkeep. I've got another update or two so far but spoiler I replaced the front brakes and am thinking I should check the tie rods because I doubt they have ever been done and I've got to do a pretty decent amount of wheel turning just to keep going straight.
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Mar 16, 2022 01:33
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Before you replace anything in the steering, have someone waggle the wheel as you look and feel for play in everything in the front end. It's all probably pretty shot at this point but you might as well get it all at once and only pay for one alignment. I believe it shares most of the parts or at least design features with the B bodies of the same era. I did balljoints, all the steering linkages, and the idler arm all in a weekend, though pressing the lower balljoints in and out was miserable, and you should check the rag joint in the steering shaft as well.
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Mar 16, 2022 03:43
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I'll look at the FSM to figure out what I'm looking at since it's fairly different than the Subarus I'm used to. I do expect almost everything to be shot, my dad grew up with the "quality" of steering that '60s trucks had by the '70s and '80s, so I think he is used to the idea of steering being very loose. It doesn't feel dangerously loose, but improving it would definitely be on my to-do list. Rear brakes and shocks come first though, the shocks are completely gone and being able to stop is in my opinion a pretty important function of a 5000 pound vehicle. It's kind of amazing how cheap shocks are on this thing compared to my Impreza, I got a set of KYB Monomax monotube shocks for $200 when the entry-level KYB struts for the Impreza are about $400 a set. I suppose the struts seem more complicated to manufacture than the shocks. We're finally supposed to have some good weather this weekend so I'm going to try to knock out the timing belt and water pump on the SVX.
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Mar 16, 2022 15:37
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Hell yeah on the truck. Looks fairly straight and clean too.
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Mar 16, 2022 16:15
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Doing the Pulp Fiction time jump thing, I still have more updates on the truck I need to write up but today it's about 50-60 degrees so I'm out doing the timing belt on the SVX and it really sucks doing this with just the tools I have in my scrapyard toolbox rather than the full rolling toolbox at the garage. No pictures though, I'm on a time limit in terms of needing to get as much done as possible before the sun goes since I'm working outside and it's going to drop like 20-30 degrees just about instantly and I won't be able to see poo poo. Had to pull the radiator since I'm doing the water pump and it was taking up a lot of room in the engine bay, that was a pain. I also had to sop up about a quart or two of antifreeze because the catch pan I had didn't have enough hole volume to get all of it in there at the rate it poured out. The idiots around where I live let their dogs and cats run around all the time and while they should know better, I still don't want an animal to drink the antifreeze and die just because their owner is a jackass.
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Apr 9, 2022 20:44
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No progress made on the timing belt today, I got everything except one last cam sprocket off yesterday. I've got the tool to hold timing gears coming to the auto parts shop, but I've also got a friend coming back to town who has a Milwaukee high torque and loves to use it, so I might see if that will fit in there. The most powerful impact I have wouldn't do it, but the most powerful I have is a kobalt right angle. I've spun the camshaft a few times, which causes me to be a little worried. Am I right in thinking that one revolution of the camshaft puts all the lobes right back where they started, so there wouldn't be a situation where the timing is lined up, you accidentally spin a camshaft once 360 degrees, and then it's out of time? That makes sense to me but I don't want to be wrong when a no longer manufactured engine is on the line. I also seem to have lost a Rockauto box, I'm hoping that I mistakenly put it with my truck parts, because it includes a couple of the seals for the front of the engine. I know I said no pictures, but I decided to make an exception. Last I heard the little balls were supposed to be inside the idler bearing, and the cover wasn't supposed to have the idler bearing poking through it.  
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Apr 10, 2022 23:26
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I've always used a breaker bar and an old timing belt to get cam gears off. Usually impact guns won't do it and with the newer ones you risk mangling up the hex socket. I do want one of the actual oem tools for the avcs gears though because I don't like that you are rotating the mechanism and transferring all the force through that to get it off. I mean, it's just some flat surfaces up against each other and hasn't seemed to have ever caused a problem but still I'd like to hold the inner part instead. The other key is to like, literally jump off the ground and shove down on the bar as hard and as sharply as possible to break it loose.
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Apr 11, 2022 02:34
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I've got the Company23 tools for the cam gears on my '05 LGT. Awkward to use in the car I'm sure, but I've always used them on an engine stand. They're also a pain to store, they currently live in the tote that has all the misc parts for the car in it.
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Apr 11, 2022 03:37
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I tried a breaker bar and the old belt and maybe it's because the belt itself got pretty mangled but no matter how much I twisted the belt around stuff and put my entire arm into it, it didn't work. The teeth on the belt just started slipping at one point. I should have taken a picture of the belt to show what a mess it was but it's in the trash already. In the picture below note how the belt is only partially on the crank sprocket but you can see the timing wheel's teeth. Those teeth were cutting into the belt and splitting it in half. I'll be careful with the high torque, but I feel like it should be able to do it, it's one of the M18 fuels and I haven't seen something that it could A) get to and B) not get loose yet. If that doesn't work then Tuesday when the tool comes in I'll use the breaker bar again. Shame there's no equivalent to the starter bump trick with the camshaft, that got the crank nut loose in an instant. Just to make sure I'm not missing something in the manual and being a complete loving idiot, it's threaded in the normal direction, right? I shouldn't be going to the right to loosen it? It's the one on the passenger side so there's not a lot of room to push down, I had been one arm deadlifting the breaker bar but that's not as much of a sharp impact I guess.
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Apr 11, 2022 04:10
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I snapped off one hex socket, and mangled the hell out of one of the bolts and ended up cutting the head off the first time I worked on this motor. Everything was far easier the second time. That was with whatever 1/2" Earthquake gun from HF I had at the time, impacts are definitely necessary. The broken socket and mangled bolt were from trying to use a breaker bar and cheater pipe to crack them loose. Luckily the problem was just the intake AVCS cams, the exhaust cam sprocket bolts came out relatively easily. Edit: normally threaded for mine at least. I'm not aware of anything reverse threaded on Subarus, but my experience is limited. PitViper fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Apr 11, 2022 |
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Apr 11, 2022 04:36
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jamal posted:The other key is to like, literally jump off the ground and shove down on the bar as hard and as sharply as possible to break it loose. My method (unrelated to this situation, just in general) is to smack the breaker bar with a hammer. This is pretty good for breaking things free. Usually I just use a rubber hammer to not jack up my tools too badly.
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Apr 11, 2022 11:24
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Well, the impact is too big to fit, and the tool from the auto parts store didn't fit, so I ordered another that should fit better, I might also try an air impact that's shorter and a MAP torch to get the bolt loose.
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Apr 14, 2022 20:27
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Good news: the new tool worked like a charm. Bad news: I bashed the gently caress out of the back of my hand and I'm really hoping I just bruised it bad rather than fracturing the bone that goes to my middle finger. It doesn't feel bad enough to be a fracture, I think. I strongly recommend this tool at the price, it does a great job. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q1KPDP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Apr 15, 2022 19:50
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How are you all avoiding damaging valves by accidentally turning the cam while trying to unscrew the cam pulley bolt? Turn the crank to a position that keeps the valves away from it even if they open?
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Apr 16, 2022 03:00
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I don't know for sure that I have avoided damaging anything, that's the "fun" part! This engine is theoretically interference, in practice it rarely actually has valves hit piston because the combinations of angles that would cause impact are so tiny. To the point that it's a common misconception that it's non-interference. At this point I'm mostly praying. I seem to have lost/accidentally thrown away the top cam plugs, so I'm going to go to the dealership a few towns over tomorrow and see about getting a new thermostat and the plugs. Odds are they won't have the plugs but they'll at least have the thermostat since it's the same design they used through 2012. It looks like you can probably do the thermostat without taking off the timing cover but it seems like a good "while I'm in there" on a car this old. I'll probably just do the rest of the work and button up as much as I can minus the top cam plugs while I wait for them to get here from Rockauto or wherever. The EG33 has an odd DOHC design where there is only one cam that interacts with the timing belt, I think it's the exhaust cam but could be wrong. The intake cam is driven by a gear on the exhaust cam, inside the block. So the intake cam just has a plug to seal it up rather than having a traditional ring seal. You can see it here: 
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Apr 16, 2022 03:22
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Seals done, scrubbed off the front of the block with parts cleaner and a nylon brush while I'm at it, I also can't find the idler pulley gears so  here's another couple coming. It's weird I looked up the shipping notice from Rockauto and it was supposed to come in the same box that the tensioner and smooth idlers came in.Getting a replacement thermostat (because while I'm in there I might as well at this age) and the front plugs hopefully this week, I put in an order at the dealership. Turns out the front ones are dealer only and the ones I ordered before were for the rear so happy accident there.
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Apr 19, 2022 02:03
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kastein posted:How are you all avoiding damaging valves by accidentally turning the cam while trying to unscrew the cam pulley bolt? Turn the crank to a position that keeps the valves away from it even if they open? Last time I did timing on an EG33 it involved wrapping the timing belt around the cam gear and having a friend hold it using an entire strut brace as a lever
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Apr 23, 2022 17:29
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