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Phi230 posted:Well mostly I'm concerned with why the wash settled in such a way as to make very very large dark spots, so that I didn't have much free room to actually highlight. If the area is like, physically filled up with paint that you can't highlight a concave area then your wash is too thick and needs to be thinned down. If your issue is that it pooled in places you didn't appreciate, you can pretty easily manipulate the wash by lightly drying your brush and carefully dipping it into the pool without hitting the mini. You'll suck up excess wash without smudging the mini.
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Oct 5, 2017 18:49
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Neurolimal posted:If the area is like, physically filled up with paint that you can't highlight a concave area then your wash is too thick and needs to be thinned down. So I should be applying less wash, over a more even area?
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Oct 5, 2017 18:50
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Phi230 posted:Well mostly I'm concerned with why the wash settled in such a way as to make very very large dark spots, so that I didn't have much free room to actually highlight. Imagine a light coming down on the model from above. Or, if you don't want to imagine, shine a flashlight or whatever on the model from above and take a picture of it. Highlight where the light would hit.
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Oct 5, 2017 18:51
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Wash should settle in recesses, not fill them completely. If it's not dark enough when it dries, give it a second pass.
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Oct 5, 2017 18:53
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Phi230 posted:So I should be applying less wash, over a more even area? Sure, the reason for the pooling is that there's more wash on the mini than the surface area can hold onto, so the excess washes over the rest and settles into gaps and dents thanks to our friend Gravity. It's up to personal preference whether to use a heavy or light wash, depends on if you want stark highlights or a more subtle contrast. But again, if the wash is outright filling in the details (not as in hiding them with dark paint, as in outright just smoothing the area out) then your wash is too thick or the paint is still too wet. If it's the latter I can relate; I make washes out of normal paints myself, and they'll always end up blotting the paint more than specially made washes. I like Vallejo's Game Color Black Wash; you get a huge tub of it for cheap, it's easy to get different consistencies out of it due to the separating ingredients, it pulls off some gorgeous shadows, and the semigloss sheen helps the highlights layered on top pop. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 18:53
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Watch a few more videos on people applying wash to a miniature to get it down. The great thing about a wash is you can usually just wipe it off and reapply or soak up the excess if you loaded too much on the brush.
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Oct 5, 2017 19:01
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https://youtu.be/tUQsiv41Enw Duncan Rhodes shows how to use a wash. Sidenote, the WarhammerTV daily painting tips and the occasional full tutorial is the only such thing I watch whenever they're uploaded, regardless of how useful they are to me. I just love listening to Duncan painting. 
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Oct 5, 2017 19:22
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Der Shovel posted:I'm not sure if you went over it already or not, but how do you paint that wonderfully rich purple? It's Xereus Purple washed with Drakenhof Nightshade, and then line-highlighted with a mix of Xereus and Fulgrim Pink, and in some places a dot or 2 of pure Fulgrim. Here's a group shot of the Sea of Purple and Teal (not pictured the sea of grey primed guys and Winged Sigmarines on the sprue still, and mini-mar's 4 gun brothers): 
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Oct 5, 2017 19:46
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What are you using for your armor color? I have a bunch of Sigbros and am going to be going the silver route as well.
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Oct 5, 2017 19:49
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berzerkmonkey posted:What are you using for your armor color? I have a bunch of Sigbros and am going to be going the silver route as well. Leadbelcher, drakenhoff (washed the same time as the purple). Repaint leadbelcher on the moob/boob plate areas and finally highlighted with runefang steel. The whole scheme is pretty quick and makes painting in batch easier. Base leadbelcher, teal and purple (astrogranite on bases). wash blue over entire model, wash black over base. Then paint gold, wash sepia, paint highlights, drybrush bases dawnstone grey and ulthuan grey and bingo.
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Oct 5, 2017 19:56
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Is there a good Vallejo Model Color-to-GW Paints equivalency chart anywhere?
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Oct 5, 2017 20:01
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richyp posted:Leadbelcher, drakenhoff (washed the same time as the purple). Repaint leadbelcher on the moob/boob plate areas and finally highlighted with runefang steel. Thanks. Quick and easy is what I'm looking for.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:08
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Schadenboner posted:Is there a good Vallejo Model Color-to-GW Paints equivalency chart anywhere? I'd like one of those as well. So far I've only found the one on Dakka that's absolutely lol-worthy in its wrongness and oldness. There was another on Reddit but as best I can tell the guy used online swatches to make it so it's basically useless despite looking impressive.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:19
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Schadenboner posted:Is there a good Vallejo Model Color-to-GW Paints equivalency chart anywhere? There are probably some online charts on people's blogs, but if you're looking for something like an Android app, there's Hobby Color Converter. It's got a surprising number of product lines included; you just select a color from one company and scroll to find other companies' equivalents or near-matches. e: Weirdly, they don't have Army Painter. They do feature Citadel, Revell, Humbrol, Vallejo, etc. Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 20:30
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Some WIP shots of my first minis, apologies for the bad cell phone pics. Magus:   I felt like there was something off about the wash I used but that could just be inexperience. It seemed somehow at the some time too thin, but then also like the pigment was suspended in it weirdly so it kind of clumped together in spots rather than being uniform    Bonus start of Neophyte squad:    Any tips/suggestions are welcome, I'm mostly just fumbling along and trying to do things as close as I can to the various tutorials on youtube.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:41
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Cat Face Joe posted:What's the best acrylic water effect that won't yellow up in a few months?
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Oct 5, 2017 20:56
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Schadenboner posted:Is there a good Vallejo Model Color-to-GW Paints equivalency chart anywhere? There's the official one: http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/0049261608364909a238add9b4a53745/CC073-rev05.pdf I mostly use https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xl-x9eW3bLw5eqDeNUG2JUwn2EZwn34TDKfNIg5uul4/htmlview which is probably the wrongbad reddit one mentioned above. It works well enough for me, particularly since I'm not super fussed with exact conversions and I use a lot of reaper triads.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:57
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Just loving start painting. Your first models are going to look like poo poo, but you will learn what works and what doesn't. Just remember to thin your paints.
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Oct 5, 2017 23:52
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Is there a reason it has to be acrylic? As far as I know, most acrylic-based water effects are just gloss medium, so you could try those. If it were me though, I'd get clear two-part resin (not the 5-minute epoxy kind!) that people use to seal art and use that. The last I looked at this, Art Resin seemed like the best bet.
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Oct 6, 2017 04:58
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Avenging Dentist posted:Is there a reason it has to be acrylic? As far as I know, most acrylic-based water effects are just gloss medium, so you could try those. If it were me though, I'd get clear two-part resin (not the 5-minute epoxy kind!) that people use to seal art and use that. The last I looked at this, Art Resin seemed like the best bet. I only need a little for some small fountains and it'll be mostly on some fishing line with only a tiny pool so I don't need a lot and I'd prefer to not have to mix. I do have plenty of gloss medium so maybe I'll just try that.
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Oct 6, 2017 14:48
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Pour-on by Envirotex Lite is basically the same stuff. And can be found at Michaels.
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Oct 6, 2017 14:48
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Speaking from personal experience, clear resin is really good for a base water effect to build on or a still water effect, but works poorly for water effects because of how fluid it is and how slow it dries.
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Oct 6, 2017 14:54
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selnaric posted:Pour-on by Envirotex Lite is basically the same stuff. And can be found at Michaels. The main difference with Art Resin from Envirotex is that the former has more anti-UV stuff, which helps with reducing yellowing.
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Oct 6, 2017 15:32
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FromTheShire posted:Does anyone have experience with using GW's orange wash? I'm doing some Cult of the Rusted Claw GSC, going for a very bright, construction worker look, so I started with Troll Slayer rather than Jokaero which looked pretty good on my Magus, but after washing him with Agrax Earthshade like Duncan had done in his videos, I feel like it doesn't look right in the creases and made brightening it back up more work than need be. I feel like the logical answer is to use an orange wash instead, but figured it was worth asking first. If you want a bright saturated yellow I recommend washing your yellow basecoat with GW Casandora Yellow (vallejo transparent yellow). Really works well to make a good yellow.
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Oct 6, 2017 19:55
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FromTheShire posted:Does anyone have experience with using GW's orange wash? I'm doing some Cult of the Rusted Claw GSC, going for a very bright, construction worker look, so I started with Troll Slayer rather than Jokaero which looked pretty good on my Magus, but after washing him with Agrax Earthshade like Duncan had done in his videos, I feel like it doesn't look right in the creases and made brightening it back up more work than need be. I feel like the logical answer is to use an orange wash instead, but figured it was worth asking first. You might also be able to use Badger's Ghost Tint clear paints as washes; maybe dilute them slightly with a little Pledge/gloss varnish or a matte medium beforehand. I did a Tau for the Oath Thread using two different Ghost Tints over white primer for the bulk of the armor, hand brushed on instead of airbrushing:  The brighter yellow is the Yellow ghost tint, and the more orange-looking areas are the Golden Yellow. They're normally very glossy, but I put a matte varnish over the top to even them out. I will say that Casandora Yellow does a very nice job of brightening up a surface that's already painted yellow or white, though, so if you've already got that glaze you might as well use it. Ghost Tints can be really fiddly to deal with, and they have a tendency to come unglued from surfaces with the slightest contact, even after drying (at least until you get a coat of varnish over them).
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Oct 6, 2017 20:25
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Cross-posting Girlyman:
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Oct 7, 2017 16:56
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Crosspost from the 40K thread; This is my first army, and what I've been working on over the past four months.       Hobby owns. Miniature painting owns. Everything owns. I've never had as much fun in my life.
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Oct 8, 2017 11:38
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Thanqol posted:Crosspost from the 40K thread; Your dudes rock! This hobby is great.
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Oct 8, 2017 14:11
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I'm trying to sculpt a monster for the AoS28 Monster Competition and I've run dry of any decent inspiration. Posting here to fish for any ideas My basic idea was some sort of centauroid monster, but beyond diagramming out the proportions, I didn't do much more planning with regards to the final appearance. I've just about finished all the musculature, and I am in a quandary about where to go next. Current themes that are floating around my head: 1. Knight/warrior in heavy armour - Pros: Easy to do. Cons: Wasted a lot of effort sculpting all those muscles, also very common. 2. Sorcerer/scholar in robes and lots of books, potion bottles etc - Pros: Relatively unique, potentially very striking. Cons: A ton of effort as I have to sculpt all the little detail bits individually. 3. Naked/Barbarian - Pros: Very easy, minimal extra work. Cons: I don't think my surface texturing is that good and it will probably show up in the final product. Also the tail has me stuck 1. Manticore tail? 2. Human-face tail? 3. Weapon tail like a tyranid? 4. Regular lion/tiger tail?   Thoughts?
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Oct 8, 2017 23:07
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As it's very lithe instead of bulky you could go a more ranger/scout direction
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Oct 9, 2017 00:52
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barbarian wearing mayan garb, or sci-fi mounted police
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Oct 9, 2017 01:01
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The correct answer is scorpion tail.
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Oct 9, 2017 07:07
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OptimusWang posted:The correct answer is scorpion tail.
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Oct 9, 2017 17:23
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Need your guys help with something. I am currently working on the wings for my Mortarion model. I want them to seem angelic, but tarnished, so so far I have gotten them to this point. I basecoated them, did some spray highlights and color variations, then fade washed with sepia ink in my airbrush. But now I am not sure where to go next. Part of my was thinking of drybrushing the bone color onto the entire wing surface, but I am not 100% sure. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated. 
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Oct 9, 2017 21:05
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Ordered a compressor, flow improver, etc. Any chance the Patriot 105 will drop more than $20 in the next month or so?
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Oct 9, 2017 21:29
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goodness posted:Ordered a compressor, flow improver, etc. Black Friday
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Oct 9, 2017 21:29
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Did you get a pressure regulator/water trap filter? They're usually combined, and cheap enough that they're typically thrown in with compressors, but it doesn't hurt to make sure. They're pretty useful for miniatures since you aren't going to want to hardcore blast the mini with paint outside of base coats. A quick release cap is also nice for removing & cleaning the airbrush after a color without messing with the compressor, but that's also something cheap enough that hoses/compressors come with as well.
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Oct 9, 2017 21:41
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I got an ultrasonic cleaner
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Oct 9, 2017 21:44
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jadebullet, that color gradient is really nice and subtle. A light drybrush of your bone color (either straight or mixed with a very pale yellow) would definitely make the edges of the feathers pop. Color questions: Does anyone have any experience using Vallejo Silvergrey 152 matte (70883), specifically if it's a good match for GW's Pallid Wych Flesh? I'm getting an unpleasant chalky texture from Pallid Wych when mixed with Vallejo glaze medium, and I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if I need to switch paints. Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for a nice pale pastel green, either a straight color or a mix from existing paints? I'm thinking something close to the color of Nihilakh Oxide, but an actual paint instead of a technical/patina.
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Oct 9, 2017 21:50
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    Reasonably happy with how my first attempt at a Raven Guard turned out. Need to iterate. Imgur album with notes on what I did, how I hosed up, and how I sometimes fixed it. (Yes, the gun lens is poo poo.)
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Oct 9, 2017 21:59
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