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After the fiasco of getting my hood open yesterday, I was able to put some ATF in my power steering pump. I ended up not having to use my car for my entire shift, but when I went to go home suddenly OH MY GOD IT'S SO EASY TO TURN NOW. It's still groaning and grinding but not nearly as loud as before. I'm going to have to get used to driving it like a car again instead of a tractor. 
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Apr 26, 2013 17:12
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Check the reservoir again now that you've driven it a bit. If the rack itself was dry then turning the wheels back and forth will cause fluid to run to all the crannies and lower what's in the reservoir. Might reduce your groaning.
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Apr 26, 2013 17:25
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televiper posted:Check the reservoir again now that you've driven it a bit. If the rack itself was dry then turning the wheels back and forth will cause fluid to run to all the crannies and lower what's in the reservoir. Might reduce your groaning. I tried to do this and yet again I can't get the hood to pop. Despite doing the exact same thing, my car won't do it for me but will for anyone else. I'll just go to work early again and have them help, I guess. Do you think she just doesn't like me? 
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Apr 26, 2013 19:49
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Filigree posted:Do you think she just doesn't like me? You just haven't given it the appropriate amount of love. It will love you again. 
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Apr 26, 2013 19:56
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I am used to driving my Range Rover, so I am used to turd like vehicles. Even if it turns out to be a complete poo poo heap, do you think I could part it out for close to 750? I figure a few people here would be interested in the 4.10 limited slip diff and other things. Just depends on what's scrap and what's partable. You can easily part+scrap it for 750, hell you can probably get a good bit back on it for scrap alone. Alternatively, if the motor is truly hosed, and the rest of the car is even remotely okay, just put a new motor in it. Motors for these cars are dirt dirt cheap. Rule of thumb is that if there isn't frame damage, frame rust, major body damage, or major rust on an e30/e36 it's always worth at least 1k. Especially 318is and 325is's... Now whether it's worth it to YOU or not depends on how willing you are to turn a wrench. Drunken Lullabies fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 21:37
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Lowclock posted:I know you can use DIS to cycle all the ABS parts on e32s and later. Probably works on e30s too, but I don't have one to connect to so I can look. I actually found a pin diagram of the harness on the abs unit. Looks like i should be able to jump some wires to activate it. So i figure, run abs pump, pump brake 12 times, then open bleeder valve. repeat on each corner. hope that does the trick.
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Apr 27, 2013 00:39
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I figured out the thing with the hood, you gotta finger it just right in the front before trying to pull the lever thing inside the car. Televiper was right, I added more ATF and now there's almost no sound at all coming from the pump. But, while I was doing that, I decided to just look around the engine and see what it looks like in there blah blah. I saw that both of the wire connector things to my high beams were disconnected (which would explain why my high beams don't work) so I hooked them back up. I also found a chicken bone in there, like someone was munching on a drumstick while working on the car.  So, I had to take my client to an appointment, only to find out that the lights I reconnected will not turn off. At all. I couldn't deal with it until after the appointment, and by then of course the car wouldn't start. I got under the hood (on the first try this time!) and disconnected them again, then a friend came and jump started my car. It all seems to be fine now, but why won't those lights turn off? I can't understand it. Also, why is the access to my car battery in the trunk?
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Apr 27, 2013 00:57
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On the lights, 90% chance you need a new Light control module (LCM) - you have an e39 right? And it needs to be programmed with your cars VIN and mileage because BMW started storing that poo poo everywhere. If you don't a tamper dot will show up near your mileage readout to indicate something is amiss. I believe the lights will be functional without programming though if you don't care. The battery is in the trunk because of weight distribution. Although next time tell your friend to look for jumper posts in the engine bay, you shouldn't have to boost the battery unless you can't get access to the front of the car.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:02
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Crustashio posted:On the lights, 90% chance you need a new Light control module (LCM) - you have an e39 right? And it needs to be programmed with your cars VIN and mileage because BMW started storing that poo poo everywhere. If you don't a tamper dot will show up near your mileage readout to indicate something is amiss. I believe the lights will be functional without programming though if you don't care. My normal headlights work just fine, so it's not too important to me right now. I'll have to look around and find the jumper posts, but it really was a lot easier to boost the battery anyway because it was in a crowded parking lot. Thanks to all you guys, I really appreciate all the help you've given me so far.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:11
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Filigree posted:I'll have to look around and find the jumper posts See if this describes you:   Alternately, see if there is a little box near the hinge on the passenger side with a flip-up door with a red plus sign on it and a nut underneath. That is what the positive remote line looks like in e36s, anyway. Negative is just to find an unpainted bolt-head or chunk of metal that is grounded - if you can find a braided metal grounding strap somewhere nearby, the bolt that it attaches to is ideal. televiper fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Apr 27, 2013 |
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Apr 27, 2013 01:28
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Filigree posted:Thanks to all you guys, I really appreciate all the help you've given me so far. Other than the bitching and homoerotic jokes, this is what makes people read and post in AI. You very literally finally got the hood open and you're learning to take control of the car you depend on, and that's awesome.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:35
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M3 entered production yesterday, scheduled for completion on May 2nd, so only 6 weeks more weeks of waiting.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:55
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I went and bought new wheels and tires because I have a problem spending money but don't care.  265s in the back. 
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Apr 27, 2013 04:39
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Do I spy a mysticblau E46?
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Apr 27, 2013 04:56
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Drunken Lullabies posted:Just depends on what's scrap and what's partable. You can easily part+scrap it for 750, hell you can probably get a good bit back on it for scrap alone. Alternatively, if the motor is truly hosed, and the rest of the car is even remotely okay, just put a new motor in it. Motors for these cars are dirt dirt cheap. Cool, I figured it can bt that awful. I am not affraid of turning a wrench at all. I have been absolutely getting my rear end kicked at work lately, so I will try to make time this week to get out there and take a look at it.
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Apr 27, 2013 19:23
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One comment on the diff, the 4.10 LSD isn't really desirable except to other people with 318s. It's a small case diff and the straight sixes will eat them up.
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Apr 27, 2013 20:14
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Also keep in mind that the diff will wear out and there is no guarantee that it has a LSD simply because it is an iS. I wouldn't bother parting out a e36 318iS.
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Apr 27, 2013 20:31
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BraveUlysses posted:Also keep in mind that the diff will wear out and there is no guarantee that it has a LSD simply because it is an iS. For real. The motors don't go for poo poo, the diffs are worthless, the suspension is bound to be crap, and you just know the interior will be trashed. The only parts you're going to be able to part with are going to be body panels for the most part.
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Apr 27, 2013 20:34
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revmoo posted:body panels Hey BrokenKnucklez, what colour is this e36 you're looking at? The giant rusty patch on mine isn't something that can be fixed with a panel swap (POR-15 on its way!), but there are other, much smaller body issues. The fender liners (both sides, front) and splash guard, for example. Come to think of it, plastic stuff like that is going to be black on any e36 and is mostly hidden anyways.
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Apr 28, 2013 01:12
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I swapped in new rear shocks and spring pads today. This ranks as one of the best $20 labor saving devices I have ever bought. When I peeled back the carpet, I found this thing just chilling there and then saw what (I can only assume) it had done to the metal and suddenly I understood why my gas-flap doesn't lock with the rest of the car. 
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Apr 28, 2013 03:52
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Six rebuilt injectors later and I think I finally fixed what was wrong with my 325i.
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Apr 28, 2013 04:50
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I drilled some holes in my trunk for reinforced sway bar mounting. I was scared I wouldn't be able to get the holes to line up, but I only had to drill once!
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Apr 28, 2013 04:55
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Oh man, oh MAN. I've put 160 miles on the car since I changed the injectors. What a pleasure to have a properly running car for the first time since I bought it six months ago. Finally changing the oil, fuel filter, and tightening up the exhaust next weekend, and I just ordered a Z3 shifter kit from Blunt.
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Apr 29, 2013 15:30
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Anyone have experience with roof rails on an X3? Not sure what to buy, Thule, Yakima, etc. Probably using it only for a roof box.
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Apr 29, 2013 15:59
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ExecuDork posted:Hey BrokenKnucklez, what colour is this e36 you're looking at? The giant rusty patch on mine isn't something that can be fixed with a panel swap (POR-15 on its way!), but there are other, much smaller body issues. The fender liners (both sides, front) and splash guard, for example. Come to think of it, plastic stuff like that is going to be black on any e36 and is mostly hidden anyways. Its white.... 2 door coupe. But another Range Rover has popped up in my area.... and well... I am retarded like that.
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Apr 29, 2013 17:11
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Interlude posted:Anyone have experience with roof rails on an X3? Not sure what to buy, Thule, Yakima, etc. Probably using it only for a roof box. Uh, how about the official BMW rack system? You already have mounting points for a BMW roof rack on your roof, under little plastic cover plates.
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Apr 29, 2013 18:28
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320d: 50k Trip Report I've had my trusty 2004 e46 320d touring for 3 years now, it just rolled over 150k a few weeks ago and 50k of that was me. The swirl flaps haven't poo poo the bed yet, although I finally ordered blanking plates last weekend. I've replaced some of the front bushes and none of the rears - the whole suspension system needs a refresh now, most of it is original I think. A new clutch and flywheel is also on the horizon as there is rattle half way down the clutch pedal, and a shudder when pulling off. MPG is down to an average of 40mpg(uk) from 44, and hopefully a through and well needed service will help fix that. I've done half the brake pipes, and I'm kicking myself for not doing them all along with the CDV but I was desperate to get it back on the road. I was quite surprised how well it stopped on the 50 mile windy, hilly journey I accidentally done with half the brake system pissing fluid all over the drivers side rear wheel though! The paint is bubbling on the arches, and the tailgate has some bare patches from stuff being constantly loaded thought the hatch, so that is on the long list of things to sort i guess. I last washed it about a year ago, and the day after I hit a deer denting the wing. I've not replaced it, because I couldn't care less about resale value. I do feel kinds bad that I haven't even washed it since.... the scrap yard markings are still on the replacement headlight. A full valet is on the cards once it's been serviced. It sounds like death, but that's just a loose hear shield above the back box I need to sort. I'm dumping £11 on cheap aux kit to see if it is any good before dumping proper money on a decent aux kit. I'm a bit fed up of using tape adaptor for the past 1250 hours of driving! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400466921460?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I still love it, it's great in snow with proper tyres, not bad off road in places BMW's shouldn't go. Performance an economy are both as good as a compromise I was going to get for the money, although I do kinda wish I'd got a 330d. Here's to the next 50k+, I plan on running it into the ground!  Anyway stupid question time, the real reason I'm posting he is: The drivers side brake shield thing is knackered, and from what I've heard it's a hub off job to do it. Will I get away with removing it with tin snips and running without one? It is already past repair with and I'd rather not go loving about with hubs. I've heard conflicting points of view as to how important it is, for what it's worth the car sees dirt and gravel every so often. I've driven for a while (and passed an MOT) with it half removed and secured, without any problems.
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Apr 29, 2013 19:32
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HotCanadianChick posted:Uh, how about the official BMW rack system? You already have mounting points for a BMW roof rack on your roof, under little plastic cover plates. I would use the Bimmer crossbars, but I don't like BMW's accessories (the ski / snowboard carrier whistles like a bastard when it's empty and is like 2' tall). We have the big Yakima Fatcat clamps mounted to the OEM crossbars and they're relatively low-profile and completely silent when empty. This is on an E90 328.
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Apr 30, 2013 05:39
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So um.. Someone tried to brake into my e36 shitbox beater (Eurospec), and thankfully was too retarded to figure out how to open a glove box. Somehow the button to open the drat thing is gone and the door is almost ripped off the hinges. I've read that replacing the glovebox is a pretty simple procedure and I can find a spare one at a junkyard around here somewhere... but I have all my title and registration and stuff in the current glovebox. I feel like an idiot, how do I open the stupid glovebox without the button above it? It's unlocked (now).
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Apr 30, 2013 09:30
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So I've got an E39 540it M Sport that I'll be driving from the Bay Area down to Bimmerfest next month to haul a couple engines along with a bunch refurbished and powder coated parts I've been working on at my shop. Among the long list of work I'll be doing on it before the trip is new front springs but for the life of me I can't find anyone that sells either H&R or Eibach fronts by themselves as the rears are useless to me. I saw one site selling a set of Eibachs specifically for a Sportwagon with bags in the rear but have since lost the link. Any suggestions? This will also be the longest trip I've taken in the car as of yet and would like to know if anyone who has more experience with one of these knows of any trouble areas I should be focusing on before I go. It's currently just shy of 150,000 miles and thus far I've done; Bilsteen HD Struts ATE Rotors Hawk Pads New Water Pump & Thermostat New Radiator hoses Oil Change - Mobil 1 10w40 Work I plan to do: Rebuilt and powder coated calipers SS Brake Lines Super Blue fluid Transmission flush and filter New spark plugs Additionally it'll be getting a bit of TLC bodywork and detail and I'm in the process of replacing all the carpet in the cargo area with 1/8" aluminum diamond tread plate with truck bed tie downs. I'll be driving down from San Francisco with the Bavarian 500, anyone else planning on going?  Here it is behind the Little Green Monster.
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Apr 30, 2013 11:08
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DrCuntmuffins posted:So um.. Someone tried to brake into my e36 shitbox beater (Eurospec), and thankfully was too retarded to figure out how to open a glove box. Why the hell is your title in the glovebox??
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Apr 30, 2013 13:15
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Joyous things come into our lives...Jonny 290 posted:It is a done deal. I have a beautiful, babied and exclusively dealer-maintained Calypso Red '95 4-door E36 in my driveway and it is the most loving gorgeous, fun and comfortable thing I have ever driven. And joyous things leave.  Rear ended at ~35 MPH speed difference in rush hour traffic by a WRX. The driver was arrested for DWI alcohol. At 7:45 AM. Called my insurance company, filed claim etc etc. He is insured, fortunately. I have no idea what to do right now. All I know is that I want a black E38 next. I'm driving a vehicle with the roundel for the rest of my life. She did her most important job perfectly.
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Apr 30, 2013 16:38
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I'm glad you're OK 290, make sure to get checked out by a doctor ASAP.
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Apr 30, 2013 16:54
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Let me know if you want to get rid of any parts. I have the same car.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:26
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Bovril Delight posted:Why the hell is your title in the glovebox?? I'm in Italy, where they pull you over and require the car title on hand or they give you a ticket. Hooray.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:32
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Jonny 290 posted:Joyous things come into our lives... Oh poo poo. Hope you're OK. That absolutely sucks. You've only had it for like 2 months!
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Apr 30, 2013 18:45
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Check the year. Just passed four years on it. I knew it was a cursed ride when I got hit-and-run on the right hand side with nine days left on my loan. I was at full operating temp when we hit, and it blew the radiator. Should I worry that the head or block might have cracked from the sudden cooling system dump? I'll see what his insurance company wants to sell it back for. Be cool if anybody wanted to e38 chat, what I'm looking for, what to avoid, etc. I can turn a wrench fine, minor maintenance and repair is not a big thing for me.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:54
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  Really can't afford a full inspection service right now.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:57
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Lately while driving (2003 e46 wagon, manual) it sounds like something is rubbing and the sound speeds up as the car does. Any potential spots to shine a flashlight at? Seems to be coming from the direction of the right front.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:01
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Jonny 290 posted:Check the year. Oh....I read gud. Jonny 290 posted:I was at full operating temp when we hit, and it blew the radiator. Should I worry that the head or block might have cracked from the sudden cooling system dump? I'll see what his insurance company wants to sell it back for. Nah....not really. I'm much more concerned when people tell me they've been adding coolant/water to a hot motor. A cooling system dump sure isn't good for it, but I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:04
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