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THE BLACK NINJA posted:
I answered the best I could in bold, others will chime in.
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May 7, 2013 15:56
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MrChips posted:I haven't heard if anyone has mentioned date codes for the affected parts, if I find out I'll be sure to post what dates are affected and where to look for the code.
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May 7, 2013 16:07
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just a few additions - most people would tell you to stay away from 325e ("eta") - they were the 'efficiency' model and the drive-train is pretty slow out of the gate. Of course, if you're going to swap in another engine, I guess that doesn't matter so much. If you go for a 318, try to get a 1989-1991, as the M42 engine had some big improvements over the M10. Again, if you're swapping engines, doesn't matter. As far as what engines will fit, I have heard that the e30 chassis will take any car engine BMW has ever made, but I don't know this first-hand. The e30 had some rust issues that mostly went away with newer generations, so be sure to check the trunk, fender wells, bottoms of the doors, and around the jack points. televiper fucked around with this message at 16:20 on May 7, 2013 |
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May 7, 2013 16:16
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televiper posted:As far as what engines will fit, I have heard that the e30 chassis will take any car engine BMW has ever made, but I don't know this first-hand. You can stuff an M62 in an E30? 
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May 7, 2013 16:21
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BrokenKnucklez posted:You can stuff an M62 in an E30? , indeed.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIYv7Pa0ZYs
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May 7, 2013 16:29
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The sun has set and rose again, and it is a new day. A day in which 290 accepted $2900 plus an extra week of rental for yon trashed E36. I paid $3800 for it four years ago; I consider this acceptable. And, a day in which 290 puts down a deposit on a 1997 540i 6speed, black/tan, clean carfax, Texas car, no mods, 160k.
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May 7, 2013 16:43
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Selling my Z3M Coupe soon if anyone is interested. 2000 with 70k miles Imola red exterior and gray/black leather interior Fully refreshed cooling system with 15k miles Poly subframe bushings, koni yellow rear shocks (twist) with rouge engineering RSMs Sony ipod ready stereo Excellent condition and ready to go 21k
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May 7, 2013 16:59
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Jonny 290 posted:The sun has set and rose again, and it is a new day. Well done sir. Well done.
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May 7, 2013 17:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:You can stuff an M62 in an E30? Party Alarm has an E30 with a M62 in it, it is quite the car. A few other things re: E30s eta motors make great turbo candidates on the cheap. An eta motor with is heads and the stock eta pistons/head gasket sits around 8.8 CR IIRC. es/is models are going to be more highly desired than their non sport counterparts, since you get a better steering wheel, LSD, sport seats and a better looking chin spoiler/rear spoiler. Later models are more desired than the earlier ones mostly because of the different bumpers that don't stick out a million feet.
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May 7, 2013 17:27
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Thanks for all the info guys! I want to at least start with a reasonable motor so I am going to look for an M20B25 car based on the recommendation and a google search. I would rather not have to swap motors, would rather just go FI. It's far off, but do people do superchargers or turbos? Twin turbos for the six cylinder? I would rather avoid the complexity of a TT setup. And now that I know what I want and have some things to distinguish between cars, I will go find one. Will report back hopefully soon!
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May 7, 2013 17:28
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Thanks for all the info guys! I want to at least start with a reasonable motor so I am going to look for an M20B25 car based on the recommendation and a google search. I would rather not have to swap motors, would rather just go FI. It's far off, but do people do superchargers or turbos? Twin turbos for the six cylinder? I would rather avoid the complexity of a TT setup. I don't think I've seen too many TT setups. Most people I think go Turbo, but check out the e30tech forums. You'll have to do some reading, but there's a lot of good info over there on FI for those cars.
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May 7, 2013 17:36
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I was thinking 3XX. Should I also consider 5 series? THE BLACK NINJA posted:Are there differences among 325/328/whatever besides motor? I don’t care about interior features. M20 6 cyl - Jetronic - 1984-1986 325 - 168hp M20 6 cyl - Motronic - 1987-1991 325i/is - 169hp M20 6 cyl - eta - 1986-1988 325e - 120hp/180ft-lb M10 4 cyl - Jetronic - 1984-1986 318i - 103hp M40 4 cyl - Motronic - 1987-1989 318i - 115hp M42 4 cyl - Motronic - 1989-1991 318i/is - 120hp THE BLACK NINJA posted:Which years/models should I steer clear of? The most desirable models are the later plastic bumper cars -- 1989-91 -- due to aesthetics and superior engine choices. THE BLACK NINJA posted:What is the best motor for flogging and modification? An NA->FI conversion is likely, although these may have different answers and I understand that. If I can get a satisfactory NA motor built that would be awesome. I'll let other speak to that, but I'd say instead of FI your best bang for the buck is to find a totaled E36 M3 and swap the motor over (240hp). THE BLACK NINJA posted:Am I going to get (relatively) destroyed by the cost of aftermarket parts? I have no problem buying used for this car. High on the list would be a good suspension and brakes. Motor mods later on and dependent on many things that I obviously do not yet know. Not hard. Very common, forums have good walkthrough/guides for this. THE BLACK NINJA posted:What are the major known issues, and what should I be looking specifically at/for when I check out cars to potentially buy? You'll need suspension bushings and cooling system unless you have records proving it has already been done. The power steering will leak and it will feel like 4 turns lock-to-lock. Your price point is lowish, in some markets you might have to pay $5k for a clean example in a desirable year. If you want a fun beater, the 1987 big bumper models have the updated engines don't carry the same premium as the big bumper models. All of these cars are loving old now, so lots of little problems might occur -- check the engine bay thoroughly, actuate all the windows and sunroof, etc. Good luck! E; FB by a gang of posters
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May 7, 2013 17:42
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MrChips posted:The area I circled is where the leak seems to develop; it might just weep out, or as it was in my case, it might come pissing out like an angry blue water pistol with the car running and hot. Either way, look for evidence of coolant leakage below. I had a look at it with the engine running, I didn't see any coolant coming out however I did see a big white crusty spot in the crease that was circled. It's definitely a Wahler part too, but it was purchased prior to 9 months ago.. Didn't see any of the telltale white splattering below. It's possible the crusty bit was just from a coolant overflow I had and I missed it when cleaning it up afterwards. I am planning on bringing the car in for an oil change soon so I will get them to have a look at it.
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May 7, 2013 17:50
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BrokenKnucklez posted:You can stuff an M62 in an E30? Also V12s! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueI76KhI8Kw
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May 7, 2013 18:22
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The scary part is they all look very stock and like they were meant to be there... I am super impressed to the quality of work.
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May 7, 2013 19:22
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quote:I was thinking 3XX. Should I also consider 5 series? I want light weight RWD goodness. As much as I love the 5 series if you want light weight RWD goodness stick to the e30. And for the love of all that is good don't do a 5 lug swap and put huge wheels on it. The e30 on 14's or 15's is so fling able it's amazing. quote:Are there differences among 325/328/whatever besides motor? I don’t care about interior features. The 325i is like the 325is without a few things (I don't think it gets the ///m steering wheel, lsd, etc) but it can come in 4 door The 318is is the lightest weight (only important if you are doing an interior delete and using it as a hard core track car) The 328 series started with the e36 so if you're looking for an e30 this model won't be an option. It's the 325 replacement, but if you happen to start looking at e36's, keep in mind they dropped the LSD for traction control with the 328. * Keep in mind the wheel base and the size of the back seat is the same on a 2 or 4 door, the only difference is weight, looks, trunk space/shape, and the presence of an extra set of doors. quote:Which years/models should I steer clear of? I'd steer clear of eta's (325es 325e etc) they have a really asthmatic intake, exhaust, detuned engine, etc. It's a lot of work to convert them to an is beyond swapping the headers on the motor. They make great projects and it's easy to find one in great shape if you're doing a driveline swap anyway. I own a 1988 325is and it's the perfect year and model for me, but everyone has different needs. Want airbags? Want 4 doors? You wouldn't like my car. Over all early models are worth less than late models quote:What is the best motor for flogging and modification? An NA->FI conversion is likely, although these may have different answers and I understand that. If I can get a satisfactory NA motor built that would be awesome. The 4-bangers (i think the m42 specifically) from the 318's are actually really cheap easy and powerful when you convert them to a turbo setup. It's a really under-rated swap but it's well documented on the internet. Otherwise the way to go is to do a 24v swap and throw in a e36 or m3 motor, after building the chassis and suspension bits up of course. I find that my m20 is plenty quick for the weight of the car but if you own it for a while it can start to feel a little slow. Chipping it to a 7k redline helps a lot though. quote:What motors can be easily swapped in place? I’m reasonably familiar with Subarus which are like legos. Check out r3vlimited and see what is well documented, there are tons of options. quote:Am I going to get (relatively) destroyed by the cost of aftermarket parts? I have no problem buying used for this car. High on the list would be a good suspension and brakes. Motor mods later on and dependent on many things that I obviously do not yet know. Yes and no. e30 parts are cheap for the most part. If you have a rare interior color (silver, red etc) and need bits for it, or something like that, it can be difficult and a bit pricy. I tend to get nickeled and dimed by dumb stuff like putting cup holders in the car ($80) finding an old era correct radio for the car, or installing a lukebox etc. quote:How hard are these cars to work on? My dad has a 2008 335is and it looks like a spaghetti monster nightmare under the hood. I’m guessing something 20 years older will be “better” in this regard though. The easiest car to work on I've ever owned, and in general really really easy. There's a few jobs that are a royal pain in the rear end (rear subframe bushings I'm looking at you) quote:How hard is it to swap a manual into an automatic car? I simply will not drive an automatic long term, but I’ve noticed a couple clean examples in my price range that are automatics. Trivial if you're doing a driveline swap anyway, otherwise I don't know sorry. quote:What are the major known issues, and what should I be looking specifically at/for when I check out cars to potentially buy? Rust rust rust! Check wheel arches, wheel wells, floor pans, the battery compartment (if the battery is in the front, there's a spot in the boot where it can go too which rusts a lot) Also finding one with clean body work is hard too, the sheet metal is super thin and these cars pick up door dings like flies to poo poo. Really if the frame and body is rust free, there isn't a single thing that is not fixable on these cars. Parts are dirt cheap, it's easy to work on, what's not to love? Oh wait one thought, steering racks go out on these a lot, and it's a kind of difficult/expensive job. Oh and look for oil leaks. I've only seen a few e30's that don't leak something (mine!) so it WILL be there. One last thought, anything that involves bleeding the brakes on an e30 is a royal pain in the rear end. Oh also sunroofs can get leaky after a while and be a pain/impossible to fix. If you're buying an e30 with a sunroof run it through a car wash when you test drive to be sure. Drunken Lullabies fucked around with this message at 22:25 on May 7, 2013 |
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May 7, 2013 21:07
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Thanks for even more input. I'm getting more and more excited about this quasi-project. First I have to find a car though. This one is already calling to me but it needs more five speed and LSD: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3776774234.html
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May 7, 2013 22:22
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The LSD is a trivial swap, not so much the transmission. I wouldn't even factor in if it has an LSD or not except for price, because you're honestly better off buying one with an open diff and swapping an LSD you've looked over or rebuilt unless you buy it from an old lady or something. I've seen a lot of old e30 LSD's that barely lock up anymore. They're cheap and pretty available unless you want to put in an m3 diff or something. Go with the best 5 speed that fits your needs you can find, and go from there. Its impossible to tell if an e30 is gold or poo poo on a craigslist posting alone. They really need to be looked over in person in all the right spots etc. I looked at a metric ton of e30's before I bought one, but I was also looking for something that was turn-key and not a project (yay apartments) Drunken Lullabies fucked around with this message at 22:32 on May 7, 2013 |
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May 7, 2013 22:29
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If you're looking for an e30, just set a few priorities: -Rustfree(ish) straight body -Manual (auto swap is do-able but it WILL cost more to piece it together due to all the parts) -325i or '91 318is - you don't want anything else, trust us. Everything else is plentiful. LSDs, interiors, motors (especially because of 24v swaps), suspension, etc. Even in atlantic canada I could pretty much build an e30 with used parts if I was patient and had a perfect body. And I'm gonna play devil's advocate, but at 5k I'd also be considering early e36 325s and maybe even 328s depending on how your area is for rust. But I'm not as set on the e30 looks as everyone else is. After owning a couple e36s and test driving e30s I'd have a hard time going back unless it had the e36 steering rack and a 24v motor. I would be perfectly happy driving an e36 for the next 10 years as a daily.
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May 7, 2013 22:36
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I'm gay for the styling, but I also have one of the hatchback turbo Subarus so I don't know if my opinion on aesthetics counts.  Sounds like waiting on a manual then? I have two other perfectly fine cars to drive in the meantime but if the swap is really gonna be painful on the parts end then gently caress it.
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May 7, 2013 22:41
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I'm gay for the styling, but I also have one of the hatchback turbo Subarus so I don't know if my opinion on aesthetics counts. If you have a running car just be patient. e30 vs e36 is apples and oranges depending on what you're looking for in a car. The e30 feels more minimalist, driver oriented, and it has a lot less steering assist. The e36 on the other hand feels more like a modern/luxury car. They have their own set of complications, what with the interiors falling apart easily, a lot of them being neglected (a lot of deferred maintenance etc) and being more complicated (VANOS OBDii etc) also check out your state's emissions regulations, I don't need to pass emissions on an e30 or e36 325 but on an e36 328 I would have to.
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May 7, 2013 22:53
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I'm thinking a 95 obd1 M3 would pretty be the pinnacle of a perfect reliability car that would last forever. Good build quality and solid undercoatings. Simple mechanicals. Not fast at all but would make absolutely perfect DD... that would last a lifetime.
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May 7, 2013 23:34
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 Anyone seen this before? Gauge has been reading warm recently, but I parked it at work today and this is what it did when I cranked it up 3 hours later. Obviously I shut it off immediately, I've checked the coolant, added a little, and bled it without cutting the engine back on. Nothing seems overly hot to the touch. Am I right in assuming a faulty sensor? The needle doesn't reset to the cold position when the key is pulled, but instead sends it toward the hot side.
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May 7, 2013 23:41
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It could be a faulty sensor, or your instrument cluster might be hosed; it almost looks like the needle is resting against the side of the gauge. Does the needle move back to the cold side when you shut the car off? Does it even move at all?
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May 8, 2013 00:15
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MrChips posted:It could be a faulty sensor, or your instrument cluster might be hosed; it almost looks like the needle is resting against the side of the gauge. Sometimes it will move towards the cold side when I put the key into position 2, but never past the red warning light, and it seems to tick upwards if I leave the key in p2. It doesn't reset to the cold side, it stays on the hot side. Also, the red light works (as it comes on for 2 seconds when you put the key in and turn to p2 and then it goes off), but it isn't illuminated when I had the car cranked and the needle was all the way over like pictured. Cluster seems likely, as last time I filled up my left nub wasn't working, and wouldn't reset the trip odometer. I left it at work and am going to drive back later tonight when I know for sure it's dead cold and bring it the 6 miles back to my house not in rush hour traffic. EDIT: I'm not sure how much sense this makes. So if I need to explain further let me know. Viper_3000 fucked around with this message at 00:47 on May 8, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 00:45
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Update: Drove it the 10 minutes home where I assume it got to operating temp. Needle stayed pinned against the gauge on the hot side. Red light on the hot side of the gauge never came on.
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May 8, 2013 06:03
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tesko.pk posted:Watch out for window regulators (if the windows are slow, creak, groan stutter, AT ALL, you'll need new ones and they run like $80 a pop), suspension bushings (almost definitely the FCAB's), water pump / expansion tank (actually make that pretty much the entire cooling system depending on mileage), and if you go for an earlier E46, have the subframe checked out. When I sold my 2004 E46 ZHP sedan, the new buyer did a PPI at RRT and they said the subframe was starting to crack. So I don't think it applies just to earlier ones.
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May 8, 2013 15:59
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Viper_3000 posted:Update: Drove it the 10 minutes home where I assume it got to operating temp. Needle stayed pinned against the gauge on the hot side. Red light on the hot side of the gauge never came on. Maybe bring up the hidden OBC menu for temp to check if its the sensor or gauge itself? See: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?736153-Test-Mode-Hidden-Codes-in-your-car! Edit: Might not work if your trip reset button is wonky. stump fucked around with this message at 20:08 on May 8, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 20:05
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So I'm heading in tomorrow to check out a 2008 328iT with 80k miles. Google tells me to ask if the coolant system and the fuel pump has been replaced. I read on some of the forums that the steering column is an issue on 2006 and 2007 but did not read anything about 2008s. Is there anything else I should know about the e91?
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May 8, 2013 22:06
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lostleaf posted:So I'm heading in tomorrow to check out a 2008 328iT with 80k miles. Google tells me to ask if the coolant system and the fuel pump has been replaced. I read on some of the forums that the steering column is an issue on 2006 and 2007 but did not read anything about 2008s. Is there anything else I should know about the e91? The coolant system is less so on the E90s than the E46s, and the water pump for the N52 (normal aspiration) is a 75k to 150k guess as to when it needs it, and no one really does it proactively before 100k or so. I sold my 2006 at 107k and it was fine. The fuel pump isn't a concern on N52 engines, but on the turbo N54. It also comes with an eight year warranty. But if you're looking at a 328, it won't have turbo, so no worries. The N52 is pretty solid, I'm on my second and haven't really had any major or systemic issues. I'd have the coolant and brake fluids flushed if you buy it, I think the whole "lifetime" line is bullshit. Check the brake pads/rotors, at 80k the rears were almost certainly done at least once, and maybe the fronts. If you buy parts and do the work, it'll run about $300ish per axle to swap pads and rotors, if you pay a shop, double it.
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May 9, 2013 01:16
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Alarbus posted:The coolant system is less so on the E90s than the E46s, and the water pump for the N52 (normal aspiration) is a 75k to 150k guess as to when it needs it, and no one really does it proactively before 100k or so. I sold my 2006 at 107k and it was fine. The fuel pump isn't a concern on N52 engines, but on the turbo N54. It also comes with an eight year warranty. But if you're looking at a 328, it won't have turbo, so no worries. Cool. Thanks for the info. I never owned a second hand vehicle nor a bmw before so I'm a bit jittery about how reliable it will be.
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May 9, 2013 14:31
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I'm seeing no end of fights regarding oil weight/brand in the M62B44, just like every other BMW engine ever made, everybody has different opinions. For now I'm in AR and rarely see hard freezes, but we have pretty consistent 95-100F summers. I know more modern engines start to take the crazy space oils and poo poo, but the fanciest I've ever gotten is Mobil1 5w30 on the 325. Any solid suggestions? Not interested in royal purple or amsoil or any 'racer' fluids like that unless they're REALLY worth it.
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May 9, 2013 15:33
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  Remember to change your pulleys every so often :\
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May 9, 2013 16:26
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We took apart a Z4 to replace the hydraulic roof motor and were pretty surprised that it's zip tied in place and 'sealed' with electrical tape. What's that about? Seems properly un-BMW. Also the new one must be touching on the chassis as it's really bloody loud. Anyone have any idea how to fix this?
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May 9, 2013 16:31
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Jonny 290 posted:I'm seeing no end of fights regarding oil weight/brand in the M62B44, just like every other BMW engine ever made, everybody has different opinions. For now I'm in AR and rarely see hard freezes, but we have pretty consistent 95-100F summers. I know more modern engines start to take the crazy space oils and poo poo, but the fanciest I've ever gotten is Mobil1 5w30 on the 325. Any solid suggestions? Not interested in royal purple or amsoil or any 'racer' fluids like that unless they're REALLY worth it. M62? Mobile 1. If your close to a dealer, ask them what their price is. I guess I am kinda anal on my BMW, but I just use their oils. I figure its what the factory uses, I can use it, and its the same price as the stuff at NAPA.
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May 9, 2013 18:46
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I might go look at a 2005 M3 with "too good to be true" pricing this afternoon. Anything specific to look out for? I kind of think the car is stolen but we'll see!
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May 9, 2013 18:57
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I might go look at a 2005 M3 with "too good to be true" pricing this afternoon. Anything specific to look out for? I kind of think the car is stolen but we'll see! Is it an SMG? That can pretty much tell you an issue.... but look at EVERY THING!
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May 9, 2013 18:58
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Can somebody help me out? My car is getting to the point that it's embarrassing to drive it. It keeps making a clanking noise which I can't pin down to save my life. At first I thought it was the endlinks so I replaced those but that did not fix anything. The only thing that I can think of would be bad struts/shocks? Does anyone have any experience with this? It sounds like an oxcart. :/ The noise used to be more prominent when going over bumps and brick-paved roads but now any unevenness in the road will set it off. It seems to get worse during warm temperature months but I can't tell whether that's actually the case or I can just hear it more because I have the windows down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. E:Forgot to mention that the car has a ridiculous amount of body roll (especially going into turns) but the car does not bounce when putting significant pressure on the front or back. Don't know if this has anything to do with the clanking. travisray2004 fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 9, 2013 19:07
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travisray2004 posted:Can somebody help me out? My car is getting to the point that it's embarrassing to drive it. It keeps making a clanking noise which I can't pin down to save my life. At first I thought it was the endlinks so I replaced those but that did not fix anything. The only thing that I can think of would be bad struts/shocks? Does anyone have any experience with this? It sounds like an oxcart. :/ Check the upper shock mounts and lower shock bushings. Then move onto control arm bushings.
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May 9, 2013 19:12
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I had clanking a long time ago and it was the inner rear brake pads. Does it go away temporarily if you slam the brakes? the fix is to take the pad out and spread the metal fingers out a bit that go into the piston.
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May 9, 2013 21:53
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