|
Solution: stop down
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 02:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 13:30 |
|
|
ansel autisms posted:Solution: stop down Never.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 02:42
|
|
|
Has anyone used the Arista C-41 kit? How does it compare to Tetenal Press Kit? 1) It'd be easier to order the Arista kit along will all my other chemicals from freestyle. 2) It's a liquid mix...which is less of a pain than the powders.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 19:24
|
|
|
4x5 Acros. Just a bit short of 1:1. Staples & Nails by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2016 19:53
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 22:41
|
|
|
So good. How do you like the unicolor kit?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 22:47
|
|
|
drat this owns really hard
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 22:55
|
|
|
I spent longer than I should have trying to figure out where you took that from before I realized that wasn't the space needle.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
The glow from the city looks so drat cool.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 23:27
|
|
|
vxsarin posted:So good. It's identical to the Tetenal powder kit in every way. The only difference is the label on the box. I screwed up something though, maybe cross contamination or maybe temperatures, because everything came out with a nasty green cast and most other colors were very washed out. The film base was dark brown. Didn't seem to affect these night shots too much though. It's not the film because the same thing happened to another roll of fresh Fuji 400H  And thanks everyone! It was foggy that night which added to the glow.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
There's a nice Blade Runner vibe to it!
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2016 02:48
|
|
|
I'm watching youtubes to develop 120 film, is there a preferred method to wind the film on the reel ? Some people get rid of the paper backing completely before engaging into the reel, others just go progressively and leave the paper to accumulate next to the reel. I think the first method lets the film roll on itself and would be more risky but maybe not.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 10:32
|
|
|
I just developed some 120 film for the first time in a good while and my technique was to spend about about 20 minutes fumbling around in the changing bag like an idiot.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 13:05
|
|
|
unpacked robinhood posted:I'm watching youtubes to develop 120 film, is there a preferred method to wind the film on the reel ? I do option 2. I also find 120 easier to get on the spool than 35.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 13:16
|
|
|
Option 2, but recently I started tearing off the extra paper backing once I got to the film. Made it a bit less difficult, especially if I fumbled the first attempt at getting it loaded on the reel.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 14:09
|
|
|
unpacked robinhood posted:I'm watching youtubes to develop 120 film, is there a preferred method to wind the film on the reel ? I've been removing the backing completely, but the other way worked too when I tried it. Agreed that 120 is way easier than 35mm to get on the reel, especially with steel reels.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 15:29
|
|
|
BANME.sh posted:I've been experimenting with photoshop actions to speed up the color correcting process for my scans. I got it down to a pretty reliable set of actions that gets me within 99% of the final image most of the time. Just used this for the first time to see how it worked. It was perfect. This is awesome.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 16:24
|
|
|
unpacked robinhood posted:I'm watching youtubes to develop 120 film, is there a preferred method to wind the film on the reel ? I remove the paper entirely before starting to put it on the reel. I feel like it gets in the way and I've never had the film scratch itself or anything like that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 18:30
|
|
|
I tried letting the paper leave on the side as I went on and it worked great. e: 
unpacked robinhood fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Feb 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 23:28
|
|
|
 Untitled by Phillip Chicola, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 03:18
|
|
|
I have access to a darkroom/enlarger for the first time in my life, but only for a few days. I just printed my first negative on some expired paper that had laying around. It was super fun. What is some good photo paper I should buy to print my photos on? I'd like to print BIG but probably won't because it would be a waste of money.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 21:01
|
|
|
Ilford fiber paper has always been my choice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 21:29
|
|
|
You won't go wrong with Ilford Multigrade papers, but there's also a bunch of interesting, small brands in Europe, making more unique things. I think you'll mostly have to try them out. Like, recently I discovered the Slavich Bromoportrait line, which has fixed-grade papers with various surfaces, including an option for a patterned/embossed one. It probably won't work with every subject, but it does make for some potentially interesting effects.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 21:45
|
|
|
OK I got some Ilford fiber paper and some RC paper. I have to be careful not to piss off any of the super serious community college darkroom nerds, they were weirdly aggro about a newbie coming in. It wasn't much of a place for learning/experimentation, more of a place for I'M SERIOUS ABOUT MY ART.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 04:58
|
|
|
Marvel posted:OK I got some Ilford fiber paper and some RC paper. I have to be careful not to piss off any of the super serious community college darkroom nerds, they were weirdly aggro about a newbie coming in. It wasn't much of a place for learning/experimentation, more of a place for I'M SERIOUS ABOUT MY ART. hand them all photograms of your balls, establish dominance
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 05:48
|
|
|
A friend is gonna sneak me into the university lab on Tuesday. Should be fun.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 06:09
|
|
|
Fuji Superia 200 with my Nishika N8000 and a flash last Halloween in Hongdae, Seoul. Hongdae Halloween by Nestor Lacle, on Flickr Hongdae Halloween by Nestor Lacle, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 13:45
|
|
|
Miike posted:
Do people in Korea play Payday?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 20:08
|
|
|
404notfound posted:Do people in Korea play Payday? No clue its been ages since I stepped into a PC bang.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 22:55
|
|
|
To the guy who did the Photoshop action for processing positive scans, here's some more Portra 400 from your friendly colorblind dad-tographer. Chair by Matt Philpott, on Flickr  View by Matt Philpott, on Flickr And because we were talking about overexposing Portra, I metered this at +2 stops. Hit the process button, punched up the contrast and sharpened a touch is all.  Tree by Matt Philpott, on Flickr Huxley fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Feb 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2016 03:14
|
|
|
Welp. So I found out that my thermometer somehow drifted approximately 2-5 degrees C in the past few months, which explains why all my BW development has been coming out too dark and my C-41 has been almost completely botched. I did a batch last night using a regular alcohol thermometer and the development turned out perfect. I was doing some macro photography with my Mamiya C220 and factored in the exposure compensation for the red filter I was using, the bellows extension, and reciprocity failure, and ended up calculating that a 1/2 sec exposure should instead be 40 seconds with those variables. Miraculously the exposures came out perfect on my first attempt, except I forgot to compensate for parallax correction at the extremely close distances I was working with so the entire roll was basically a waste. Film. BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Feb 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 16:57
|
|
|
My Thermapen has paid for itself multiple times over. http://www.thermoworks.com/products/thermapen/
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 17:12
|
|
|
I've wanted one of those for a long time after the praise they get on America's Test Kitchen, but I always find a reason to avoid spending $100 USD on a thermometer. I should probably just bite the bullet though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 17:14
|
|
|
 This is my first big boy attempt at anything resembling still life. I shot these on HP5+ with my Mamiya C220. F16 and 40 second exposures using available light. Nailing focus and correcting for parallax that close-up was a bitch. I am planning on making prints using my enlarger and having them framed together as an anniversary gift for my wife (she loves calla lillies). I originally wanted to have extreme close-ups on the left and right sides, showing abstract curves of the petals, but couldn't focus close enough and I would have ended up needing to crop too much. So instead this is the arrangement I came up with. I think the one on the far left is the strongest where the other two are decent enough, but I am pretty happy with how they turned out as a whole. I wanted to print them on 11x14 paper, but again, can't get my enlarger to go that big considering the amount I had to crop. So 8x10 it is.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 22:32
|
|
|
That's fantastic. I love that triptych.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 23:10
|
|
|
MrBlandAverage posted:My Thermapen has paid for itself multiple times over. http://www.thermoworks.com/products/thermapen/ I totally second this. Plus it's great when grilling steaks or brewing tea!
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 03:04
|
|
|
BANME.sh posted:
Those are fantastic! How did you account for the parallax? Did you use one of those fancy adapters that raises the camera for you?
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 05:15
|
|
|
Thanks! I figured it out by following the guides on the viewfinder and side of the camera after reading the manual. When the guide on the side of the camera says you should compensate for 1.5x exposure, you consider the first horizontal line in the viewfinder as the "top" of the frame. At the 2x exposure compensation level, you use the second horizontal line, and at the 3x level, you consider the middle of the viewfinder to be the "top" of the frame. This means half of your subject needs to be out of frame when you are focused this closely, making focusing super difficult. I wish I had the fancy tripod adapter.
BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Feb 25, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 06:28
|
|
|
I use an oral digital medical thermometer to check the temps on c41 chemicals. Works great as long as you are doing the standard 100°F tetenal rapid kit method. I've wanted to try the slower 86° method, but the thermometer doesn't go that far! I guess if you're body temperature drops that low, you're dead anyway. I use a standard cheapo thermometer with a dial for B&W, but it's slow and not as accurate.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 16:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 13:30 |
|
|
Mo_Steel posted:also have your regular reminder that space owns and listening to people talk about something as mundane as the cameras they devised to watch takeoffs owns loving bones This is pretty cool and film related: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFwqZ4qAUkE&hd=1
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2016 19:03
|
|