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Japan Camera Hunter is coming out with his own film: http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2016/03/film-news-announcing-jch-streetpan-400-film/ Comes out to about $8.75 USD a roll
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Mar 17, 2016 13:40
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Spedman posted:Japan Camera Hunter is coming out with his own film: So he is starting up *new* production on old surveillance film? Looks pretty decent. Lots of contrast.
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Mar 17, 2016 14:03
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How long do mixed C41 chems really last? I have the 1 liter Unicolor kit and I wanted make sure I didn't waste it. Was planning on having 12-14 rolls ready to dev before I mixed them but I don't really think that's realistic.
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Mar 18, 2016 02:40
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I used a tetenal kit that was mixed over a year ago and they came out fine. Stored in a cool dark place with the air squeezed out should keep it for a few months easy.
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Mar 18, 2016 02:42
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Keep them in the fridge in a concertina bottle with all the air squeezed out to get the longest life out of them. But I wouldn't think they'd survive longer than a few months after mixing, without compensating heavily.
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Mar 18, 2016 02:42
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A few months is all I needed to hear.  Thanks guys.
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Mar 18, 2016 02:45
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BlackMK4 posted:Thank you for that, it looks simple enough. I wonder if anyone sells printed PCBs for this. Time to look around a little bit.
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Mar 18, 2016 09:38
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I've got some Portra I was going to develop this weekend but according to the bottles my C-41 chemicals (Tetenal) are a year old tomorrow and have done half a dozen rolls. Reckon it'll be OK?
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Mar 20, 2016 00:03
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I've done a few batches of b&w dev before and did my first two C41 developing sessions last night. Imagine my surprise when the blix basically shot the top off of my patterson and covered my kitchen.  The first try was kinda a shitshow but the second round went very smoothly, all turned out well.
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Mar 20, 2016 06:02
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big scary monsters posted:I've got some Portra I was going to develop this weekend but according to the bottles my C-41 chemicals (Tetenal) are a year old tomorrow and have done half a dozen rolls. Reckon it'll be OK? I'd develop the roll you care the least about or throw through a roll of some cheap c41 35mm film to make sure it works.
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Mar 20, 2016 08:11
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What sort of difference could I expect developing with Rodinal or Ilford chemicals rather than Studinol? I got a bunch of it when I got my paterson tank, would I be better off using Rodinal if I want to try out stand development?
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Mar 20, 2016 14:15
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Studinol is Rodinal Special, which isn't simply just Rodinal, it's more like HC-110 apparently: http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/rodinal-special-studional.16279/
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Mar 20, 2016 22:22
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I hosed up and bought 5 rolls of 120 Ektar instead of 35mm. This is how I end up with a medium format camera.
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Mar 23, 2016 02:52
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BlackMK4 posted:I hosed up and bought 5 rolls of 120 Ektar instead of 35mm. This is how I end up with a medium format camera. Trade it for portra, Ektar is finicky and works better as a warlord's name.
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Mar 23, 2016 03:22
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Spedman posted:Japan Camera Hunter is coming out with his own film: Just to circumvent further speculation, this is not a new film nor is he starting up something new. It's a loving ripoff that's what it is. It's the same stock as Rollei Retro 400S. It's old Agfa Gaevert surveillance film. The development instructions match up to a T as does the acetate base color and halation layer coloring. Documentation: AGFA Gaevert spec-sheet: https://www.agfa.com/sp/global/en/binaries/ASP%20400%20X%20PE1%20PE0_tcm611-34788.pdf The same thing much cheaper: https://www.macodirect.de/en/film/black-und-white-films/1844/rollei-retro-400s-35mm-36-exposures And in 120: https://www.macodirect.de/en/film/black-und-white-films/1847/rollei-retro-400s-roll-film-120 Notice the absolutely identical development times, temperatures and dilutions for ALL chemicals here: Rollei Retro 400s AKA Agfa APX 400: http://www.argentix.ca/specs/338-1.pdf Mr Hunts post peddling his "new" film: http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2016/03/film-news-announcing-jch-streetpan-400-film/
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Mar 23, 2016 03:22
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VomitOnLino posted:Just to circumvent further speculation, this is not a new film nor is he starting up something new. That's a bit poo poo on his behalf by touting him bringing a "new" film to market, the FPP guys have been doing that for years now with out the disingenuous crap.
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Mar 23, 2016 04:20
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He says in the post that it's an existing aero stock???
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Mar 23, 2016 04:27
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VomitOnLino posted:Just to circumvent further speculation, this is not a new film nor is he starting up something new. He says in his post that's what it is....did you read it?
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Mar 23, 2016 04:58
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365 Nog Hogger posted:He says in the post that it's an existing aero stock??? Yeah he's saying this, then that, kind of weaselling around on the issue. Initially he tried to create the impression that this was an old film-stock which he "revived", when that provably isn't so. As film nut, of course, I'm all for film getting to a larger target audience. But... It would be best if resellers were upfront about what they're doing - instead of trying to foster the impression that a film hadn't been available before just to garner more hype and sales. I don't want the barrier of entry to shooting film raised by needless confusion and opaque pricing or re-packaging schemes. Or people abandoning (the) film because "it looks all the same". (Because it is.)
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Mar 23, 2016 04:59
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365 Nog Hogger posted:He says in the post that it's an existing aero stock??? New stock, old "formula" I believe. It's basically being brought from the dead under a new name.
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Mar 23, 2016 05:00
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vxsarin posted:He says in his post that's what it is....did you read it? Speak for yourself, you asked: vxsarin posted:So he is starting up *new* production on old surveillance film? Looks pretty decent. Lots of contrast. The answer to your question is no. This film was already available and was being coated (and edge marked) as Rollei Retro 400s -- available in 120 and 135. So, JCH's blurb posted:Now, I couldn’t have a completely new emulsion made, so I decided to go with an old discontinued surveillance film that was original made by AGFA, and have it put back into production. And thus JCH StreetPan was born! So this is a re-born film, not a re-spooled film that is still being sold. This is also not an ‘old stock’ film or a ‘pancake’ that was kicking around a ‘dusty warehouse’. This is a freshly produced emulsion with an expiry date of 2020. It was already produced and resold as Rollei Retro 400s. Edit: Yes, I am aware that he's saying that's not 400s. Which is untrue. People have him actually backed in a corner and he's deleting those comments on his website. In other places he insisted that it's 400s but with a "new scratch proof coat". Haha. VomitOnLino fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 05:05
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KEH is having 20% OFF used film gear - FILM20
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Mar 23, 2016 15:31
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aricoarena posted:KEH is having 20% OFF used film gear - FILM20 Pentax 6x7 200mm f/4 on the way. Been eyeing it!
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Mar 23, 2016 16:08
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vxsarin posted:Pentax 6x7 200mm f/4 on the way. Been eyeing it! Nice. That's an awesome lens - super sharp across the frame wide open already. Regret selling my Pentax 67 gear, but I couldn't risk more slipped disks if I didn't.
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Mar 24, 2016 02:02
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I'm about to use an enlarger for the first time in three years, and I'm making color prints. wish me luck
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Mar 25, 2016 19:43
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Good luck. I can't reliably create enlarger-ready 120 negatives (with a Kiev 60 and plastic rotary tank) because something is causing them to have... these things: Anyone recognize what this is? It happens.. consistently, but randomly - if that makes sense. It doesn't occur on the entire roll, but I don't think I've developed a batch of 120 film with this camera that hasn't had at least a single frame sporting one of these marks. Edit: I used the last of my developer for the roll in the above photo, and I think it wasn't quite enough to cover the top of the spool, so just ignore the bubbly looking poo poo at the top of the frame. I know what that's from. Edit 2: Oh hell, I bet it's from the 'teeth' on the plastic development spool. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 02:03
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ra-4 fuckin owns  no loving around with split filters or developing trays, just put your print in a slot in the wall and it pops out the other side, developed, dried, and flat 5 minutes later. adjust color filters, repeat atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 02:11
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What equipment do you have and what do you do for temperature management? I have an enlarger with a color head but no idea how to tackle RA-4 at home without special equipment
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Mar 26, 2016 02:23
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BANME.sh posted:What equipment do you have and what do you do for temperature management? I have an enlarger with a color head but no idea how to tackle RA-4 at home without special equipment Temperature management is fairly easy, actually. Just put the print into one end of this thing  and it does it for you
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Mar 26, 2016 02:48
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darn
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Mar 26, 2016 02:53
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collegestudent.jpg
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Mar 26, 2016 02:56
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I've discovered that a full frame DSLR with a good macro lens gives more detail than an Epson v550 scanner. The problem is, I'm using an iPad app as a light pad and the pixel pattern shows up in the photo. I've had to downsize the image somewhat to mask it, to a degree.
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Mar 26, 2016 03:20
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that's actually at Rayko Photo Center; this is for my alt process class's color unit. there may be a color darkroom near you! Rayko rents their group darkroom stations for $9 an hour, with processing included. they also sell RA-4 paper for what seems to be absurdly cheap (under $25 for 50 8.5x11" sheets of Endura Premiere N semi-matte).
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Mar 26, 2016 03:22
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SMERSH Mouth posted:The problem is, I'm using an iPad app as a light pad and the pixel pattern shows up in the photo. I've had to downsize the image somewhat to mask it, to a degree. If you could get a sheet of thin, white material to diffuse the light slightly you might get better results or you could use something to rise you negatives above the screen slightly so the pixels are in soft focus and don't show up.
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Mar 26, 2016 10:59
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I've discovered that a full frame DSLR with a good macro lens gives more detail than an Epson v550 scanner. The problem is, I'm using an iPad app as a light pad and the pixel pattern shows up in the photo. I've had to downsize the image somewhat to mask it, to a degree. If you're planning to do this consistently, you should invest in a proper light table.
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Mar 26, 2016 12:26
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alkanphel posted:If you're planning to do this consistently, you should invest in a proper light table. The Huion ones on amazon are pretty nice and not too expensive.
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Mar 26, 2016 13:50
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alkanphel posted:If you're planning to do this consistently, you should invest in a proper light table. I did that, but then realised that i get too much newton rings doing it that way. I used my old scnaner's 35mm holder and put that on the light table - it elevates the film enough to get rid of those rings.
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Mar 26, 2016 17:48
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Yeah I've got film holders so hopefully those can raise it up high enough. I need to find something that's translucent, white, and not textured like paper to put between the screen and the film holder. But I'm pretty close to just buying a real light pad. It's seriously so much better than my cheap scanner, though. I wish I had thought of it before I bought it.
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Mar 26, 2016 21:33
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BANME.sh posted:What equipment do you have and what do you do for temperature management? I have an enlarger with a color head but no idea how to tackle RA-4 at home without special equipment I used trays and room temp chems the last time I did ra-4 and got quite good results. The kit I used is this one: https://www.macodirect.de/en/chemistry/color-chemistry/ra-4/4480/compard-digibase-ra4-print-kit-for-1l?c=651 (But it looks like they can't ship out of the EU now) It's a standardised process like C-41, so you do all your tweaking with the CMY head and not with dev times etc. Also all the dev/fix is done in full darkness.
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Mar 28, 2016 13:44
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Yeah I've got film holders so hopefully those can raise it up high enough. I need to find something that's translucent, white, and not textured like paper to put between the screen and the film holder. A small piece of milky acrilic will do the job.
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Mar 28, 2016 15:58
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