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Progress on my Crapkit Kenworth. God I love Crapkits, you have to really do some thinking. NOTHING on this lines up right or makes any sense. The parts aren't even numbered on the sprues, you just have to look at the crummy drawings in the instructions and try to find that shape. No locator pins or holes really, just "This goes vaguely here" and it doesn't actually fit right anyway. Chassis and engine mostly assembled.  Here's what I ended up doing with the rear deck. Who wants a boring old fifth wheel when you can slap a turret from a tank on there? The scale is off, I know. But I didn't have enough parts to do my original idea of putting together a tank cannon on some sort of bodged together technical mount. The mechanical items on the top and inside the frame are all kitbashed. Supposed to suggest some sort of remote control system for the passenger to operate.  Here's how it sits today. Cab and interior assembled. I ended up disliking the plain rusty gas tank and turret so I did a coat of the same shade of chipped green as the cab. It's actually IJN Green leftover from my Akagi planes. The driver gained a radio set from a Tiger tank, again out of scale but it adds a bit to the cabin. Mudded up the wheels and undercarriage, mostly to hide the remaining lovely chrome plated hubs and poorly detailed tires.  I didn't put the dumb chrome grill in, because it wasn't a grill. Just a barely detailed slab of plated plastic.  gently caress yeah. Still to go, I plan on scratchbuilding some sort of window covers. I'm thinking slats. As well as re-installing the bumper that keeps breaking off along with some sort of mean bull bar or sharp-edged cow catcher for the front.
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Nov 6, 2019 01:05
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Enos Shenk posted:gently caress yeah. That's a pretty great crapkit. The turret is a nice touch.  I'm working on a layout for my Fletcher. The seascape looks better at a distance, but the tinfoil lines aren't quite what I was hoping for. Not sure if it needs another bit of scrunching, or if I should scrap it for another idea. For this one I 3d printed a base, added some V bow waves, then overlaid the tinfoil. Followed up by GW contrast blue and some white dry brushing.
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Nov 6, 2019 01:23
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Carth Dookie posted:My dad is very gradually doing the Tamiya Panigale. It's impressive how good it is. It just falls into place. That's usually how I describe their bike kits. Everything just... fits. My first Revell kit after building a couple Tamiya racecars was an exercise in frustration. That Mad Max Kenny is loving awesome.
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Nov 6, 2019 02:15
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Mr Hobby finally realized that their products are pretty popular outside of japan, and has opened english social media accounts. https://twitter.com/MrHobby_GWS https://www.facebook.com/MrHobbyGWS
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Nov 6, 2019 02:53
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cool now if only hobby shops actually stocked their paint
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Nov 6, 2019 05:40
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Raskolnikov38 posted:cool now if only hobby shops actually stocked their paint https://www.scalehobbyist.com/ https://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/index.php http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/ https://newtypehq.com/
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Nov 6, 2019 05:49
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I meant brick and mortar, I hate shipping times for flammable poo poo
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Nov 6, 2019 06:45
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Raskolnikov38 posted:I meant brick and mortar, I hate shipping times for flammable poo poo If youre in California, Newtype is in the bay area and does order pickups. Volks also does pickups, but they're in the LA area.
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Nov 6, 2019 07:14
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Am I gambling with my paint job if I use a non laqeur matte varnish? British autumns don't play nicely with being able to spray outside and I dont want to accidentally rub off any post varnish weathering or oils.
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Nov 6, 2019 16:09
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I'm running out of shelf space. What's the least awful way to display all my plastic crap without breaking the bank?
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Nov 6, 2019 20:40
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I want to make a scale model ship for my friend for christmas, based on one he invented to a fantasy setting that used organ-like pipes and other musical instrument themes to stay aloft while spewing smoke. I got a cheap Revell pirate ship and ordered some pla-plate tubes... any suggestions for kits or accessories that might help me greeble this thing? So far my scale modeling has been almost exclusively gunpla with one X-wing I did a while back.grassy gnoll posted:I'm running out of shelf space. What's the least awful way to display all my plastic crap without breaking the bank? The answer is always a Detolf from Ikea, right? $60 for a serviceable display cabinet. Zodack fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 6, 2019 |
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Nov 6, 2019 21:41
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e: double post
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Nov 6, 2019 21:58
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm running out of shelf space. What's the least awful way to display all my plastic crap without breaking the bank? Start working in 1:72 or 1:144 scale. Or you could take the coward's way out and buy a display cabinet. Up to you.
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Nov 6, 2019 22:25
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Got my hands on the Polar Lights NCC-1701 Enterprise Refit kit in 1/1000 for real cheap. It comes with almost 150 Cartograph decals including the Aztec patterns all over the ship. 
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Nov 7, 2019 02:06
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Am I gambling with my paint job if I use a non laqeur matte varnish? British autumns don't play nicely with being able to spray outside and I dont want to accidentally rub off any post varnish weathering or oils. FWIW if it's a model that no articulation, the Vallejo Mecha line has an acrylic topcoat. They were developed with Gunpla in and like the primers they are very good. I've primed a few with that line and yes you can scratch it, but you really do have to be attempting to mark it. They dry really hard and being water based acrylic are super easy to clean up, though are a little prone to tip dry so just keep on top of it with a q-tip whilst spraying.
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Nov 7, 2019 02:16
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I might have to check that out. I just didn't want to get a water based matte varnish and accidentally eat through it with oils.
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Nov 7, 2019 03:06
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Greyhawk posted:Got my hands on the Polar Lights NCC-1701 Enterprise Refit kit in 1/1000 for real cheap. I built this one earlier this year, have fun. Be super SUPER careful to squeeze out air bubbles from under the decals, because they will ruin the look no matter how much flat varnish you hit it with. Also warning: some of the decals aren't the same size as the corresponding part on the model! 
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Nov 7, 2019 03:42
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You should be fine with oils over and under Vallejo acrylic varnish. I'm using W&N oils from the craft store with synthetic turpenoid for thinner and never had a problem.
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Nov 7, 2019 17:02
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Are you guys using something like Solvset to set the decals? I found a heavy amount starts to turn the decal almost into a gel and really helps release bubbles.
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Nov 7, 2019 18:17
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Baronjutter posted:Are you guys using something like Solvset to set the decals? I found a heavy amount starts to turn the decal almost into a gel and really helps release bubbles. I just use rubbing alcohol for that. You don't even need that much.
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Nov 8, 2019 05:31
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So are Revell kits generally poo poo or what? I have a ton of Revell kits I've picked up over the years but I've only painted Tamiya. I started on a Revell SBD-Dauntless and by god the kit doesn't fit together, the pilot and gunner look like half melted burn victims. I'm not sure there's any way to actually paint these guys and have them look good. It's the same for the P-40B kit I have. I do have a B-17, B25 , MiG-25, and F-18 kit from Revell sitting in the backlog and I'm worried that they're all poo poo too. Anyway I need color selection help. I'm having a hard time color matching US Navy WW2/US Army WW2 pilot and air crew uniforms with vallejo paints. I'm using this picture: _c_Nov_1943.jpg) As a reference. Khaki is too brown. I found Vallejo's "Deck Tan" might be close but I'm not sure how I would triad that color.
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Nov 8, 2019 17:14
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I believe Revell reboxed a lot of old kits from different makers. Their newer stuff is usually quite good.
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Nov 8, 2019 17:51
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Phi230 posted:So are Revell kits generally poo poo or what? I have a ton of Revell kits I've picked up over the years but I've only painted Tamiya. I started on a Revell SBD-Dauntless and by god the kit doesn't fit together, the pilot and gunner look like half melted burn victims. I'm not sure there's any way to actually paint these guys and have them look good. Variable quality. Check Scalemates to see if it is a crappy old rebox. https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?q=Revell*&fkSECTION[]=Kits&fkCOMPNAME[]=%22Revell%22 This is the SBD kit I've seen most: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-04711-sbd-5e-dauntless--155008 Notice that in the chronology it states that the last "New tool" is from...1977! Most likely rotten quality compared with nowadays kits.
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Nov 8, 2019 18:28
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Sparq posted:Variable quality. Check Scalemates to see if it is a crappy old rebox. Lmao my kit is from 1960 no wonder its junk
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Nov 8, 2019 18:31
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Phi230 posted:So are Revell kits generally poo poo or what? I have a ton of Revell kits I've picked up over the years but I've only painted Tamiya. I started on a Revell SBD-Dauntless and by god the kit doesn't fit together, the pilot and gunner look like half melted burn victims. I'm not sure there's any way to actually paint these guys and have them look good. As someone who's built a decent amount of Revell kits, it depends not only on the age of the original kit, but also the original manufacturer they may have borrowed the molds from. There's quite a bit of crap that's re-released decades after the original molds were made, but just alongside that brand new molds with great amounts of detail. These days I generally check Scalemates first if I find a Revell kit that looks interesting, as there's no real way to tell from the packaging. I've already been burned a few times by just deciding on the topic and the pictures on the back. This P-38 for example looked quite neat but the kit's originally from 1976, has fitting issues and is lacking in detail in a lot of places. And in that same price class you've got this Vampire which is a reboxing of another manufacturer's kit and is pretty dng great, while another Vampire they released that's still on store shelves is a Heller kit from 1979 originally.
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Nov 8, 2019 20:01
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I’ve found that Revell Germany kits are generally much better than their American counterparts. As you might expect, however, they don’t typically cover the same subjects.
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Nov 8, 2019 21:19
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Is anyone familiar with lighting kits for space-ships? I've been thinking of picking up Revells Star Destroyer kit, but there are two options for lighting. The classic version is to buy an older revision of the kit, and then an aftermarket fiberoptic lighting kit. They have a new version of the kit with lighting included though, but it's accomplished with LED strips inside the model. You drill the holes for the lights, and the interior of the kit is flooded with light from the strips. The LED strips don't necessarily point the light straight out of the holes, it's just incidental light from the overall interior lighting. I know they actually did a similar effect with the SSD in Jedi, although that had a giant fuckoff huge fluorescent tube inside the model. I'm wondering though if this "incidental" lighting method will look as nice as fiberoptics, which are known quantity. As far as I can see no one has really reviewed this version of the model online, at least in english, and there don't seem to be any pics or vids of the completed, lit model, so I'm in the dark here.
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Nov 8, 2019 23:46
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Its a rebox of the Zvezda kit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9A9FaT1wsE Maybe this video would help you out? Plasmo used fiber optic to light his.
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Nov 8, 2019 23:56
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Yeah, every review out there is either the old Zvezda kit, or the older revisions of the Revell rebox that didn't come with lighting. I have no problem with the extra effort involved in fiberoptics, but the cost of the kit itself and and aftermarket lighting kit is about the same as the newer Revell kit with lighting included. So really the only decided factor is if the LED lighting looks as good as the fiberoptic option.
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Nov 9, 2019 00:03
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Old zvezda kit? Didn't it just come out in the last few years?
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Nov 9, 2019 00:05
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I say "old", but yeah, still fairly recent. In that time though, they put it out, and then Revell bought the kit and has put out 3 or 4 revisions since.
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Nov 9, 2019 00:19
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i've not done a lighting kit but my first concern about an inner light instead of fiber optics would be light leaking through cracks and seams
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Nov 9, 2019 00:41
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I thought the same. If I did go that route, I'd put a bead of white/hot/epoxy glue down the inner side off all joints, and then coat the entire inside of the model with black paint, to prevent light leak.
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Nov 9, 2019 00:49
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Coat it with silver to reflect better maybe?
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Nov 9, 2019 01:02
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I was just thinking that, either a metallic spray or bottle metallic. Or even put down a layer of glue and lay down aluminum foil on the large surfaces.
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Nov 9, 2019 01:05
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Have you looked into the bandai kit?
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Nov 9, 2019 01:34
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Yeah, too small though. I'd like something really eye catching, a nice big centerpiece.
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Nov 9, 2019 01:36
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Man, this thing is a chonker.  After shelving it due to lack of mojo in June, I'm back on the bench and hoping to finish it in time for a Large Scale Planes group build at the end of the year. Today's a big milestone. I sealed the fuselage only a mere 994 days after cracking the box. 
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Nov 9, 2019 03:03
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I finished my MiniArt T-80 tank. I don't particularly care about the subject matter, so I decided to try out the Soviet double tri-colour scheme: tri-colour winter camo on top of tri-colour summer camo. The idea is that the green is completely covered and the brown and yellow appear lighter from hatched lines, which also help deform the tank's appearance. The kit is not great. It' mostly the T-70 kit with conversion parts to add the T-80 turret, which is fine. The instructions are not very good and try to cram too many parts into one step. Some are actually left out entirely. A lot of the parts either don't fit how the manual says they should, and often there are no locator pins, so you kind of have to guess. This is especially annoying with the many many handlebars on this tank, as there is no indication where they are supposed to go. The casting is very bad in some places and the plastic is very brittle. Almost half of the track links came apart when I took them off the sprue, so I had to painstakingly glue them back together. There are no decals in the kit and no markings options are presented.         
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Nov 9, 2019 20:35
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What does Spider-Man need a tank for?!
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Nov 9, 2019 22:32
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