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Lunix's fragile filesystem is part of the charm 
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Jul 23, 2019 17:21
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EVIL Gibson posted:You can only run the Pi Zero with the power the prusa provides. if you do a pi3, you might risk taking too much power from the machine and it will start doing unpredictable things. You can do a pi3, you just need to run it off the power supply with a buck converter, and there’s plenty of cases on thingiverse that’ll hold a buck converter nicely on the frame Or just like Power the pi with a usb cable
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Jul 23, 2019 17:26
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Sagebrush posted:I really don't know why, given the extreme proclivity of the Raspberry Pi to nuke itself when its power is cut, the designers haven't built in some kind of graceful shutdown system with a capacitor and a watchdog that at least closes file system handles etc when it detects low voltage. It'd add like a dollar at most to the BoM and it would cut down hugely on the number of angry frustrated people Trust me, I don't know why a lot of decisions were made at Raspberry Foundation the way they were made. I don't know why it was deemed ok to have the 0w eat half its CPU resources under WiFi bandwidth saturation, why the whole power requirements are finicky as gently caress and make thing brown out all the god damned time, why the first generation regularly rebooted when you plugged anything into to usb port, why the latest iteration has to produce that much heat while idle or why they seem to give every project early access to their hardware but OctoPrint. 
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Jul 23, 2019 17:33
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Sagebrush posted:It's true that the 5v regulator on the RAMBo board is not really designed to run a whole second chipset, but the Prusa's PSU has no problem running a Pi (it's like 10 watts) in addition to all the motors and heaters. The RAMBo's 5v supply will do 2A, with a graceful overcurrent shutdown. You can run a Pi3 with a webcam with that -- I am on my MakerGears. There are pads to solder to on the board as well. If the Prusas are using the Archim2, then you have a 4A supply.
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Jul 23, 2019 21:32
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foosel posted:why they seem to give every project early access to their hardware but OctoPrint. Blatant misogyny? An RTC battery, capacitor or PoE support would all be nice at this stage in its evolution, higher up the list than a second HDMI anyway.
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Jul 23, 2019 21:41
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Sagebrush posted:I really don't know why, given the extreme proclivity of the Raspberry Pi to nuke itself when its power is cut, the designers haven't built in some kind of graceful shutdown system with a capacitor and a watchdog that at least closes file system handles etc when it detects low voltage. It'd add like a dollar at most to the BoM and it would cut down hugely on the number of angry frustrated people If anything, if a brown out is being detected, it should probably rather freeze IO until the voltage level is back up, so that it doesn't write half-assedly to the card. If the cap empties before it's done, you'd probably end up in a similar scenario.
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Jul 23, 2019 22:21
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Powering your octoprint over POE seems a little silly IMO. You already need a power source near your printer. Why add another failure point, potentially on the other side of your house, at your network switch? Your print can continue if you lose network, but not if your network is also powering the controller
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Jul 23, 2019 22:23
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So I was doing the paper test to set my Z Probe offset and I noticed something odd. The distance between the nozzle and the printbed would fluctuate in a kind of sine wave pattern. For a few seconds it would be tugging on the paper between the two and then it would change to the paper moving freely without friction. That could account for my problem of having to readjust the offset after every print. What could be causing that? The printer wasn't set to move or anything during that time. I also wasn't touching the printer at the time, just moving the paper between the nozzle and bed.
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Jul 24, 2019 15:37
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I put a separate 24v -> 5v power supply inside my Maker Select Plus to run my Pi. Also, I am lazy and don't usually shut down my Pi before powering off the printer, which kills power to the Pi.
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Jul 24, 2019 17:21
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Something to also keep in mind is while this may be all well and good with the Pi3 if you decide to get the new hotness that is the Pi4 it may not be ok. The Pi4 draws more juice.
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Jul 24, 2019 17:54
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jubjub64 posted:So I was doing the paper test to set my Z Probe offset and I noticed something odd. The distance between the nozzle and the printbed would fluctuate in a kind of sine wave pattern. For a few seconds it would be tugging on the paper between the two and then it would change to the paper moving freely without friction. That could account for my problem of having to readjust the offset after every print. What could be causing that? The printer wasn't set to move or anything during that time. I also wasn't touching the printer at the time, just moving the paper between the nozzle and bed. Was the heatbed on? It actually changes shape as it heats.
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Jul 24, 2019 18:00
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Thermopyle posted:The AxiDraw looks better suited to the task because of it's API. However, if I was to tackle the same sort of task I'd look into automating the Cricut software with a GUI automation tool like pywinauto or AutoIT. Turns out AxiDraw has an inkscape plugin that along with another plugin both takes in a CSV to do a mail merge and randomizes sizes, spacing, and fonts so it looks truly handwritten/ This looks pretty dope. Its called AxiDraw Merge. Anyway I bought their $600 one. Ill follow up with some tests when it gets here.
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Jul 24, 2019 18:56
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 Can someone tell me how to fix this? I redid the bed leveling and everything seems to be squished pretty well, but the details in the center still get ripped off like this.
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Jul 24, 2019 19:09
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Go slower, really.
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Jul 24, 2019 19:15
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SEKCobra posted:
Slow down more on the first layer. Replace the tape with new tape. Try a different brand of tape. Is the bed heated? If not, install a bed heater. Install a PEI sheet.
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Jul 24, 2019 20:03
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Sagebrush posted:Slow down more on the first layer. Can you think of something with a printer that doesn't get better when you go slower?
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Jul 24, 2019 20:09
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insta posted:Can you think of something with a printer that doesn't get better when you go slower?
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Jul 24, 2019 20:18
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Been messing around with my Ender 3 some more. Got a borosilicate glass bed and upgraded the firmware and started using manual mesh leveling, and it's printing awesome. However, I notice a lot of times, extra material will ooze from the nozzle and cling to it, ruining an otherwise perfect print. Is this just a temp issue? I'm printing PLA at 195 degrees right now, though the problem exists at 200 and 190 as well. Edit: Oh and I always print a skirt to purge the nozzle but I still get the extra bits building up around it. Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jul 24, 2019 |
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Jul 24, 2019 21:41
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peepsalot posted:retraction speed alright smartypants (really though, kinda forgot that one)
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Jul 24, 2019 21:52
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insta posted:Can you think of something with a printer that doesn't get better when you go slower? The big one is bridges. Bridging nearly always works better at higher speeds. If you slow way, way down, like 5mm/s, you can run into weird issues like filament decomposition (because its spends so long inside the hotend) and inaccurate extrusion (because at those speeds filament ooze becomes a significant fraction of the total extrusion volume). In general everything else works better when you go slower though yeah.
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Jul 24, 2019 22:14
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insta posted:Was the heatbed on? It actually changes shape as it heats. Yes, the bed and nozzle were both on. They had reached their target temps as well. It is a very large heatbed, so is that just flexing as it maintains its temp?
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Jul 24, 2019 22:49
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Two months of running three printers full time into it and I'm like 75% done on printing giant snow tank parts. They are ugly but dimensionally accurate and strong as gently caress: I noticed in this process that parts containing above about 150g of plastic tended to warp up on the bottom layers, which was not affected by enclosing or temperature adjustments (PETG). The fix? Rafts. this changed everything. The motors which will drive this beast also arrived:  I purchased the same part number from two sources and got two slightly different motor shaft lengths, we'll see what happens!
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Jul 25, 2019 02:24
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Sagebrush posted:Slow down more on the first layer. It's new tape, the first layer is already very slow (10 mm/s) and it's heated as well.
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Jul 25, 2019 04:34
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That still leaves 2/5 possibilities to try! Seriously if you're still using tape in 2019 it is worth spending the 20 bucks on one of the self-adhesive PEI sheets on Amazon. The stuff just works way better than anything else (within the scope of what most people do with 3D printers). You won't regret it.
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Jul 25, 2019 04:38
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So I just bought a 3D Printer and I am worried about any health issues that might stem from FDM printing. Do I need to build a case around it?
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Jul 25, 2019 08:17
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Mr Shiny Pants posted:So I just bought a 3D Printer and I am worried about any health issues that might stem from FDM printing. Do I need to build a case around it? If you're printing 20kg/week of abs in a poorly ventilated room, then maybe? PLA and PETG themselves are not toxic. Though we can't account for all the pigment variants, there's probably not a lot of concern outside of the lots of printing in a small room example. There's definitely a nanoparticle concern with any material, but for most cases, you're probably fine. I've been printing for 3 years+ and have only had cancer 4 times since then.
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Jul 25, 2019 12:22
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Mr Shiny Pants posted:So I just bought a 3D Printer and I am worried about any health issues that might stem from FDM printing. Do I need to build a case around it? I plan to do so eventually and ventilate it to the outside. Unfortunately, as far as I've seen, there's not really any good science yet in the effects of nanoparticles from 3d printers.
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Jul 25, 2019 15:15
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Sorry thread: I never bothered to come up with a better enclosure than the trash bag I had hung over my janky Wanhao i3, but I successfully printed this all in ABS without burning my house down.  350mm Voron 2.1 in final checks before it melts plastic. Homing and heating is working. Non-garbage bag enclosure and air filtering to come. Acrylic side panels, and laser-cut ABS rear and bottom are on order. Hoping to get it all tuned just in time for the imminent release of version 2.2 where I’ll reprint 2.5kg of parts and do a full teardown. Right now the major issue is finding a way to modulate the 750w AC bed without all of my LED shop lights freaking out. Hoping Klipper’s version of bangbang heating will cycle acceptably slow, because PWM made the garage all strobe-y last night. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jul 25, 2019 |
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Jul 25, 2019 16:07
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eddiewalker posted:Sorry thread: I never bothered to come up with a better enclosure than the trash bag I had hung over my janky Wanhao i3, but I successfully printed this all in ABS without burning my house down. Nice! Total cost?
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Jul 25, 2019 16:58
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eddiewalker posted:Right now the major issue is finding a way to modulate the 750w AC bed without all of my LED shop lights freaking out. Hoping Klipper’s version of bangbang heating will cycle acceptably slow, because PWM made the garage all strobe-y last night. Also, you won't get around PWM anyway, since ideally you'd cap max. power to something like 0.4W/cm², so that it doesn't heat up too quickly. Otherwise you might risk the toolplate to warp sooner than necessary. Might be a problem or not. At least the devs aren't against bed-meshs anymore. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jul 25, 2019 |
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Jul 25, 2019 17:05
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That is a gorgeous printer.
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Jul 25, 2019 17:08
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Thermopyle posted:Nice! I kind of lost track since I started collecting parts from the never-released 2.0 BOM two years ago. Probably past $1400 at this point. Combat Pretzel posted:Hmm, what SSR did you actually get? Doesn't sound like it's a zero-crossing one. It’s a Arrow-sourced Omron G3NA. My garage is severely under-powered with a single 15a circuit shared with lighting. Someone chimed in and suggested a 100v AC transformer on the bed to limit overall draw, but I’ve already got a 60a subpanel hung to add some more 20a circuits, so hopefully that’ll solve it for real.
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Jul 25, 2019 17:16
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Sagebrush posted:That still leaves 2/5 possibilities to try! Isn't the plate the Ender 3 comes with this PEI stuff?
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Jul 25, 2019 20:02
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SEKCobra posted:Isn't the plate the Ender 3 comes with this PEI stuff? gently caress knows, probably whatever they fished out of the trash bin that day
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Jul 25, 2019 20:18
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So a couple of days ago I got a new CR10S Pro and I just had a weird print I canceled before it got too far.  Other than a printrbot I owned for two weeks a couple of years ago I'm basically brand new to 3d printing. The two test files and the Benchy I printed before this turned out fine. Is this a weird bed leveling issue, or a clogged nozzle, or a bad slice? I'm sorry if it's just a super obvious thing that I'm missing.
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Jul 25, 2019 20:46
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nozzle WAY too close to the bed
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Jul 25, 2019 20:54
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BMan posted:gently caress knows, probably whatever they fished out of the trash bin that day It's BuildTak like stuff.
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Jul 25, 2019 21:41
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BMan posted:nozzle WAY too close to the bed Yep. When you see the little ridges and furrows like that, like a ploughed field, it's because the nozzle is dragging through the plastic and smearing it around. Reset your z-zeroing level. 
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Jul 25, 2019 22:28
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Little late on the OctoPi power discussion, but what I did was power the Pi with a regular wall adapter and leave it running 24/7, but wire up a relay to the printer's PSU and use an Octopi plugin to control it. 15 minutes after a successful or cancelled print the Pi shutsdown the big PSU so it doesn't run all night while I'm asleep or all day while I'm at work. Also shutsdown if the Pi loses communication with the printer's board, so there's some added safety if the board goes wacky and sets the heatbed to 11 before committing suicide.
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Jul 25, 2019 23:33
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 03:04 |
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crosspost from the OSHA thread:Mr. Apollo posted:Supposedly the story is a guy 3D prints the end mills to prank his coworkers. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jul 26, 2019 |
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Jul 26, 2019 01:26
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