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Orvin posted:How reliable are the 4wd systems on the new Grand Cherokee, specifically the Quadra-Trac II? I have been looking at purchasing one, but have never owned a jeep before. While I will likely never see off road, there will be 2-5 times a year that I have to drive on Chicago snow covered roads to get to work. Also, it seems to be impossible to get a jeep without 4wd in the Chicago area. From what I've seen, QuadraTrac II is more than adequate for Chicago snow, especially given how good this city is about snow mitigation. Buy better tires if you're worried.
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Jul 24, 2016 20:27
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Safety Dance posted:From what I've seen, QuadraTrac II is more than adequate for Chicago snow, especially given how good this city is about snow mitigation. Buy better tires if you're worried. Partly just wanted to make sure that the system is good in snow. But I was also asking to see if they are failure prone in any way. Never having owned a Jeep (or 4wd vehicle), I was a little worried about the expense of repairs on the extra drivetrain bits of a 4wd system.
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Jul 24, 2016 21:12
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Orvin posted:Partly just wanted to make sure that the system is good in snow. But I was also asking to see if they are failure prone in any way. Never having owned a Jeep (or 4wd vehicle), I was a little worried about the expense of repairs on the extra drivetrain bits of a 4wd system. For winter- the most important bit is good tires. 4WD systems are secondary.
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Jul 24, 2016 21:43
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kastein posted:The battery probably would have tested that way with the old alternator too, which was probably fine. ND internal rectifier external regulator alts are basically fine till the bearings or brushes fail, then you go from working fine to no charge or bad noises in one day. The reason for the gauge fluctuation is because the voltmeter is pretty far out on the wiring branches into the cabin and the lighting system is upstream of it, so it sees the voltage drop caused by anything else upstream even if the battery/alt are both fine. If you turn the blower on max, the headlights on, and run the horn and blinkers at the same time it will drop even further. But why would I show 12-13 volts with nothing on whatsoever? If I have the stereo off driving in a straight line on the highway during the day with no air or lights on, I'm still between 12 and 13 volts.
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Jul 25, 2016 01:48
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Have you compared your gauge to a multimeter's reading?
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Jul 25, 2016 02:12
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Godholio posted:Have you compared your gauge to a multimeter's reading? As in put the meter on either side of the gauge contacts? No, but that's a good idea to see if it's just the gauge.
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Jul 25, 2016 02:15
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:As in put the meter on either side of the gauge contacts? No, but that's a good idea to see if it's just the gauge. Dash gauges are only a half step above idiot lights they should be believed as such. Grab a multimeter and put the probes on the battery terminals. Running should get you 13.9v-14.4v depending on conditions. If you have doubts run to your local autoparts store and they can run a charging system test for ya free of charge usually.
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Jul 25, 2016 03:58
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Veeb0rg posted:Dash gauges are only a half step above idiot lights they should be believed as such. Grab a multimeter and put the probes on the battery terminals. Running should get you 13.9v-14.4v depending on conditions. Well, if the voltage at the battery tests fine (which it should, if he's not having issues starting) it could indeed be the gauge, but I'd think it's something like a bad ground or a mechanical problem with a +12 wire/connection between the battery and the gauge. Fuse box? grungy ring terminal somewhere?
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Jul 25, 2016 04:13
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Veeb0rg posted:Dash gauges are only a half step above idiot lights they should be believed as such. Grab a multimeter and put the probes on the battery terminals. Running should get you 13.9v-14.4v depending on conditions. The battery shows 14v across with a multi meter. Which is why I'm confused that the gauge reads low. But yea, 23 year old gauge, probably not perfect. Raluek posted:Well, if the voltage at the battery tests fine (which it should, if he's not having issues starting) it could indeed be the gauge, but I'd think it's something like a bad ground or a mechanical problem with a +12 wire/connection between the battery and the gauge. Fuse box? grungy ring terminal somewhere? I'll poke around a bit. I just don't want to have something poo poo the bed when I'm in the middle of the woods.
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Jul 25, 2016 05:00
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You don't really want above 14v on a lead acid battery for long periods, 13.8 is maximum float voltage, and charging usually runs only slightly higher, depending on temperature.
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Jul 25, 2016 11:33
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I have one of these, which is very helpful for diagnosing intermittent electrical gremlins.
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Jul 25, 2016 13:48
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Orvin posted:How reliable are the 4wd systems on the new Grand Cherokee, specifically the Quadra-Trac II? I have been looking at purchasing one, but have never owned a jeep before. While I will likely never see off road, there will be 2-5 times a year that I have to drive on Chicago snow covered roads to get to work. Also, it seems to be impossible to get a jeep without 4wd in the Chicago area. I picked up a user 2012 Overland Summit last year, it has both Quadra-Trac II and Quadra-Lift. No issues so far. I am up in the mountains and we get a ton of snow, no issues. As others have said snow tires make a world of difference. We drove it back to Chicago over last Christmas (hit a pretty big snow storm in Iowa) and it did great.
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Jul 25, 2016 18:18
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My 04 liberty's AC died, so I obviously bought a second jeep. I found a 2007 Grand Cherokee Limited Hemi for $4,000 that came with a cracked windshield and the check engine light on (P013C). Hopefully I'll be able to find an exhaust leak or a bad O2 sensor without too much trouble. I just put 500 miles on it without a hint of any actual mechanical issue, so I'm pretty excited. Except the loving uconnect system faked me out and only handles bluetooth phone calls, but not bluetooth media streaming. Why would they do that? Need to locate a newer head unit. The previous owner avoided the N23 recall that was ruining people's 4-low/neutral, but I see there's an updated notice (P73) trying to get people in for the recall. Is it safe to trust jeep with this, or should I stick to remembering the parking brake?
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Jul 25, 2016 18:46
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DARPA posted:I found a 2007 Grand Cherokee Limited Hemi for $4,000 that came with a cracked windshield and the check engine light on (P013C).
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Jul 25, 2016 19:43
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The '99 XJ I bought two weeks ago? Yeah found a rust spot on the roof that was worrisome. I scraped off the paint around it and WELP, about a dime size hole appeared. Wish I took a pic of the hole first, but a ton of sanding, priming, and a little bondo action and I got it close to looking decent. Still have some sanding to do on it, and ordered a paint code matching rattle can for when it's done. Definitely far from perfect but no one under 6'5" is going to see it.  There's a few other bubble spots I'll probably hit later and make sure they're okay, but this was the only spot where there was rust through the paint.
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Jul 25, 2016 19:44
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Krakkles posted:Jesus. A base-ish model in my area seems to go for $10k+. That's a totally smoking deal. Does it have any rust? I figured even if I have to replace every O2 sensor and both cats to clear the check engine light, I would still be ahead. Seller even saved me multiple trips by delivering the car to my house, 40 minutes away and in a different state. Almost too good to be true to the point that I got nervous at the DMV when the lady walked away with my out of state title, and made a phone call, but she came back with my license plates and told me to have a good day. The only rust I've found is an 8" skinny strip on the inside of bottom lip of the lift gate, otherwise nothing.
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Jul 25, 2016 20:12
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Krakkles posted:Jesus. A base-ish model in my area seems to go for $10k+. That's a totally smoking deal. Does it have any rust? Yeah I have the same model/year/engine and I paid like twice as much :/ That said, it's been great for over a year and is actually very capable. I used it just this past weekend to haul a 12 foot trailer up some pretty rough trails  To build this 
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Jul 25, 2016 23:15
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:
A genuine WoodsCube! It's like Gehry meets Brutalism in a hillbilly recontextualization.
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Jul 25, 2016 23:19
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I tried to change my rear pinion seal on the weekend and was defeated by the pinion nut on my dana35. That fucker will not come off. Sofar I have tried wedging the yoke against the floor with a pipe wrench and then jacking up a breaker bar until the handle was curving. I didn't try hitting the bar with a hammer while loaded yet and I haven't tried heating up the nut. Those are he next steps I guess. I just got scared about breaking it and backed off. Though breaking it would accelerate my 8.8 plans by a fair bit. I really need to invest in an impact gun 
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Jul 26, 2016 20:16
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mashed_penguin posted:I didn't try hitting the bar with a hammer while loaded yet and I haven't tried heating up the nut. to be clear, do you mean hitting it with torsion applied or hitting it while drunk off your rear end? because in my experience both work i need one too 
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Jul 26, 2016 22:21
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brains posted:to be clear, do you mean hitting it with torsion applied or hitting it while drunk off your rear end? because in my experience both work Lol I think I'll probably have to be loaded to decide hitting a breaker bar under torsion with a hammer is a good idea. So yes both.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:52
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So, I'm moving to Florida. Anything special I need to do as far as care, aside from what is pretty standard in the Midwest?
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Jul 27, 2016 03:19
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Wizard of Smart posted:So, I'm moving to Florida. Anything special I need to do as far as care, aside from what is pretty standard in the Midwest? Watch out for Florida Man. He'll get you. For content, I have a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift going on my Jeep right now. 4° wedges will hopefully be here Thursday. I hope to have the rear axle mounted Friday and knock out the front end over the weekend. Leaf spring removal has been a nightmare. No photos of where I am so far.
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Jul 27, 2016 03:38
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Wizard of Smart posted:So, I'm moving to Florida. Anything special I need to do as far as care, aside from what is pretty standard in the Midwest? Don't drive it in the goddamned ocean. As cool as you think it'll look, when you suddenly hit a deep spot or a patch of loose sand underwater you're completely hosed. You don't have to be more than a couple of inches into the underwater sand to guarantee you can't drive out.
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Jul 27, 2016 04:13
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Saltwater will do terrible things to everything it touches. High temperatures exacerbate this. In case you wanted another reason why not to drive in the ocean. Also, I've seen more than one car/truck/bus get stuck with the tide coming in. Most of them were sunk in sand to to about glass-level by the time the tide went back out. Fake edit: I've seen an Idiot drive an R8 into the Oregon surf. He ripped around for a bit and then left. Saltwater was splashing a few feet above his roof.
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Jul 27, 2016 04:24
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Wizard of Smart posted:So, I'm moving to Florida. Anything special I need to do as far as care, aside from what is pretty standard in the Midwest? Tint your windows and make sure the A/C works. Also, what part of FL?
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Jul 27, 2016 21:39
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Get a spiderwebshade or similar. I love my SWS.
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Jul 27, 2016 22:41
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DAT RAM posted:Bought this last week: Kick the rockers and make sure they don't crumble, but that looks pretty drat good!
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Jul 28, 2016 05:12
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Liquid Communism posted:Kick the rockers and make sure they don't crumble, but that looks pretty drat good! I whacked them with a rubber mallet and they're solid. The previous owner did a drat good job keeping as much rust off of it as possible. Since I'm in Florida it should say that way.
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Jul 28, 2016 13:12
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I cannot loving get rid of this death wobble. So, back in November, my TJ had bad death wobble and ended up replacing both front sway bar links (they were no longer connected) and I put on a this new steering kit because the tie rod ends were shot and I figured a new steering dampener was probably in order. I got it aligned and the wheels balanced and it was fine for about 3 months. I went back to get it aligned and they told me the tie rod ends were shot again. I got a totally new steering kit under warranty, installed it, got it aligned, but it still pulls to the right pretty bad and I still have bad death wobble at any speeds over 55. Also, my tires are going bald on the outer edge on the passenger side. Did I just get a lovely alignment and that's why it's still drifting to the right and has death wobble? If not, what can I check next? I'd really like to be able to drive on the highway again.
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Jul 28, 2016 22:12
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IcedPee posted:I cannot loving get rid of this death wobble.  Hopefully the 4x4 place I currently have my TJ at will get to the bottom of mine. I am prepared to have them do a long arm lift kit as a replacement if they tell me that without a doubt the lift (mainly the arms) are the issue. Maybe even go up to a 4" for shits and giggles if going that route. If I were made of money I would have them upgrade the gears to 4.56 while in there. Sadly I am not made of money
Cartouche fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 19:03
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IcedPee posted:I cannot loving get rid of this death wobble. Krakkles posted:I'd also bear in mind that Death Wobble, while annoying to fix because there are so many parts involved, isn't impossible or even particularly difficult to solve. Cartouche posted:
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Jul 29, 2016 19:11
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Given the fact that it's pulling to the right and the right tire has a funny wear pattern, either your alignment guy is a dope or you have bad balljoints and/or a bad unit bearing on that side, check those things. Also make sure your right brake caliper isn't stuck.
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Jul 29, 2016 21:59
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Am I just retarded or are there only about 2 total ways to mount a hi-lift to a YJ? Hood = no thanks and the option to mount across the rear of the cage seems like asking for my soft top to get ruined. Short of drilling portions of the body and just bolting the fucker on, what are good options? I don't want to buy a 300$ bumper either. Edit: Upon reading more, they seem kind of unnecessary. I just have no means of lifting it up in the event of a flat. Should I just get a bottle jack? I don't plan to do any rad muddin'  and I am about half way through assembling and installing a winch so I will have some recovery options on a trail...
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 04:41
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Do I have any hope at all of finding a 4wd Commanche without rust for a reasonable price? Really striking out on craigslist & co
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Jul 30, 2016 04:54
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Edit: Upon reading more, they seem kind of unnecessary. I just have no means of lifting it up in the event of a flat. Should I just get a bottle jack? I don't plan to do any rad muddin' Get a bottle jack. Changing a wheel with a hi lift is pretty dangerous anyway, if possible at all. I've yet to use my hilift successfully to recover myself too. Not entirely useless.... But almost entirely.
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Jul 30, 2016 05:20
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I've owned a hi lift since about 2006 and I have never, ever used it. I should probably go look at it and make sure I can figure out how.
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Jul 30, 2016 05:46
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blk posted:Do I have any hope at all of finding a 4wd Commanche without rust for a reasonable price? Really striking out on craigslist & co The absolute newest MJ you could possibly find is going to be 24 years old now. Maybe there's one in Arizona somewhere, but you're probably going to pay an arm and a leg if it's rust-free and in any kind of condition.
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Jul 30, 2016 06:00
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blk posted:Do I have any hope at all of finding a 4wd Commanche without rust for a reasonable price? Really striking out on craigslist & co They tend to pop up in the Gulf South/Texas for $1-5000 from time to time. Most don't look like they've been eaten away by salt either. http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/5681298357.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/5669060202.html http://killeen.craigslist.org/cto/5678625562.html
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Jul 30, 2016 13:43
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blk posted:Do I have any hope at all of finding a 4wd Commanche without rust for a reasonable price? Really striking out on craigslist & co There is a beautiful one Listed on a local facebook jeep group. Its an absolute time capsule, not a spot of rust. 87 Comanche 4.0L engine 81,600 miles 90% original paint Garage kept it's whole life $5,500 The problem. 2wd.     
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Jul 30, 2016 15:17
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