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deaders posted:Alternatively actually do the research because you might just learn something and discover real influences. I actually really enjoy doing research and have discovered loads of amazing photographers through these college projects. It's just there have been a few times when I have had an idea while out with my camera so couldn't do research first. I think my biggest pet peeve through doing this has been people putting images on their website without crediting the photographer. Thats one of the reasons I was finding this a pain.
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May 19, 2016 02:49
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rocketpig posted:I actually really enjoy doing research and have discovered loads of amazing photographers through these college projects. Film Photography has an unlikely, popular home on Twitter, as well. I see everything from just photos to camera troubleshooting in my feed comprised of random photographers. It's mostly Europe, but I've come across some neat artists from Africa and South America.
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May 19, 2016 03:16
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May 19, 2016 04:08
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8th-snype posted:I'm not sure I have much faith in Catlabs, mostly because the guy that runs it was a dick to me on facebook once and all their stuff is super overpriced. He's always been polite and professional to me, but yes, I bet if they succeed in this moon shot it will cost something like $50/pack.
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May 19, 2016 04:51
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Yond Cassius posted:He's always been polite and professional to me, but yes, I bet if they succeed in this moon shot it will cost something like $50/pack. It was on an unrelated post to his business and he didn't read the whole thread just jumped in and accused me of mansplaining because I was offering an opinion on the mamiya 645 system, it was weird.
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May 19, 2016 06:16
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So I have a bunch of old 35mm and 120 negatives that I want to make prints of. I'm trying to figure out what my best course of action is: 1.) Buying an Epson V600, scanning them myself and then sending somewhere to be printed 2.) Putting together a slipshod darkroom darkroom and printing them myself (I miss the whole printmaking process) 2a.) Renting time at a local darkroom and printing them there (i'm in Portland, OR, which I think has a few options.) I'm leaning towards option 1, scanning and printing, purely from a time/money perspective. Does that make me some sort of heretic? Is the Epson V600 a good choice for that?
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May 19, 2016 07:01
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frogbs posted:Does that make me some sort of heretic? Is the Epson V600 a good choice for that? You aren't crazy. I recently had a request to shoot some promo shots for a bands fanclub on film because they thought it would be cool, idk. We had some nice glossy 30 × 40 cm prints done for review/vanity, and selected 4 to go into the mailer. I then scanned the relative negatives (plustek 8200i ai) and shipped off the files to the commercial printer since we need like 4500 copies of 4 photos. I had to explain this to the lab when discussing the project with them because they initially thought I was going to want 4500 enlargements and projected weeks of turnaround time and negative duplication costs. The Plustek only does 135 and is quite nice for it, if you shoot other formats, the Epson is probably a better deal. windex fucked around with this message at 08:04 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 07:56
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If you have only a few prints to make, I'd recommend the rented darkroom approach, as it's super fun (if that's a factor) and the quality of the final result might be marginally (inconsequentially) better. It would take more time though.
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May 19, 2016 10:01
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frogbs posted:So I have a bunch of old 35mm and 120 negatives that I want to make prints of. I'm trying to figure out what my best course of action is: How many is "a bunch?" If you're not planning on shooting film yourself and you don't have too many negatives to scan, you could rent scanner time on the V700s at Newspace. Otherwise, yes, just buy a V600 and sell it when you're done (or don't).
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May 19, 2016 14:27
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Holy poo poo, Delta 100 + XTOL is sharp as hell.  IMG_7405 by S M, on FlickrAnything in focus that looks a little soft is the result of a) vignetting from the yellow filter + step up ring, or b) bad scanning practices.
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May 21, 2016 05:35
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May 22, 2016 22:08
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I built a temperature controlled water bath using random parts from eBay and the hardware store. Holy crap I had no idea how much photoshop color correction I'd be avoiding by keeping the temperature consistent. I used to always get kind of purple-reddish shadows and other times kinda greeny highlights. I was almost convinced it was my scanner, because I occasionally had similar problems with film I got from the lab. Now I can maintain 38.7C perfectly through the whole process (the most it rises to is 38.1C but recovers before it has any negligible effect on the actual chemical temperatures). I swear I am now getting better results than my local lab. I only really did some white balance correction and added contrast to this. Fuji 400H. Pardon my dorky friend 
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May 23, 2016 03:49
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if I have no room without a window in my apartment, developing at home would be pretty hard, right? I want to try b+w development but I'm not sure it's going to be feasible in my tiny rear end apartment.
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May 23, 2016 14:53
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Karl Barks posted:if I have no room without a window in my apartment, developing at home would be pretty hard, right? I want to try b+w development but I'm not sure it's going to be feasible in my tiny rear end apartment. Get a dark bag and a tank? I've developed film sitting on a roof deck before. e: Just to make sure you know, once you load film into the tank and seal it up, it's light-tight. You take it out of the bag and do whatever you need from there. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 15:02 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 14:59
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Karl Barks posted:if I have no room without a window in my apartment, developing at home would be pretty hard, right? I want to try b+w development but I'm not sure it's going to be feasible in my tiny rear end apartment. Developing film, especially roll film, is done in light tight tanks where you can pour the chemistry in and out of. The only time you need darkness outside the development tank is when transferring the film into it, and you can do that with a changing bag or changing tent, which is a light-tight bag with holes for your arms. You don't need a dark room just to get negatives from exposed film. You only need a dark room when you want to make prints/enlargements.
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May 23, 2016 15:02
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poo poo, even a dark bag is optional if you have two or three heavy blankets and the sun sets where you live at. I recommend you use one tho because they are like $20 but still.
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May 23, 2016 15:19
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BANME.sh posted:I built a temperature controlled water bath using random parts from eBay and the hardware store. Holy crap I had no idea how much photoshop color correction I'd be avoiding by keeping the temperature consistent. I used to always get kind of purple-reddish shadows and other times kinda greeny highlights. I was almost convinced it was my scanner, because I occasionally had similar problems with film I got from the lab. Now I can maintain 38.7C perfectly through the whole process (the most it rises to is 38.1C but recovers before it has any negligible effect on the actual chemical temperatures). I swear I am now getting better results than my local lab. I keep thinking about doing this, if you have pictures or notes on what you did if be interested!
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May 23, 2016 15:21
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Karl Barks posted:if I have no room without a window in my apartment, developing at home would be pretty hard, right? I want to try b+w development but I'm not sure it's going to be feasible in my tiny rear end apartment. Close the door to your bathroom, block the cracks in the door with your dirty-rear end towels, and put your film on the reels. Close those bitches up. Good to go. Getting the poo poo on the reels is difficult the first couple of times. I tend to pull out enough film to get it started on the reel, shut the light off, pull the film through like 75% of the way around the reel then wind on. Once you get to the end of the reel just pull to rip the tape and finish winding. Do not pull the film out of the canister unless you want to be really frustrated - this also lets you quickly wind the film back in the canister when you do get frustrated because of jamming.. The reason I hand pull onto the reel at first is that it's difficult to get the film past this point and it will get stuck otherwise. 120 film is super easy to get on the reel... breath of fresh air after 35mm. I use an induction stove to heat my poo poo to 100f (C41) and it holds the temp there. Makes it easy. I've found C41 super straightforward compared to B&W dev. Normalized times - no trying to figure out what time with what developer for what iso, etc. The lovely part about shooting C41 is getting the colors right after scan. Makes me want to try slide film (lol RIP). BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 16:55 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 16:48
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It's also not too hard to tape some cardboard to your bathroom window.
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May 23, 2016 17:19
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nielsm posted:It's also not too hard to tape some cardboard to your bathroom window. and when you're done you can make a pinhole/ tiny hole in that cardboard and turn your bathroom into a camera obscura.
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May 23, 2016 18:57
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Are there kits for developing e-6 in powder? I want to shoot slides again but there's no place that develops locally and I can't get liquids shipped internationally...
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May 24, 2016 02:49
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Primo Itch posted:Are there kits for developing e-6 in powder? I want to shoot slides again but there's no place that develops locally and I can't get liquids shipped internationally... Nevermind you're not in Canada
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May 24, 2016 02:54
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Some Zenit-E shots on Kodak Colour Plus. Lens is Helios 44-2, 58mm f/2. Zenit_Kosice_May-30.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Zenit_Kosice_May-21.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Zenit_Kosice_May-1.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
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May 25, 2016 00:20
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I have a bunch of Portra 100T film and instead of trying to find legitimate situations for shooting in tungsten light, I bought an 85A lens filter so I can shoot it in daylight. I never really use filters, will the camera automatically adjust the exposure for the filter? I am using a Pentax 645 if that matters.
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May 25, 2016 22:40
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BANME.sh posted:I have a bunch of Portra 100T film and instead of trying to find legitimate situations for shooting in tungsten light, I bought an 85A lens filter so I can shoot it in daylight. If the camera uses TTL metering (which the Pentax does) then yes, the metering will include any filters. If the meter is off the lens (like on older rangefinders or on anything with a selenium meter) then no, the filter won't be taken into account by the meter.
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May 25, 2016 23:09
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BANME.sh posted:I built a temperature controlled water bath using random parts from eBay and the hardware store. Holy crap I had no idea how much photoshop color correction I'd be avoiding by keeping the temperature consistent. I used to always get kind of purple-reddish shadows and other times kinda greeny highlights. I was almost convinced it was my scanner, because I occasionally had similar problems with film I got from the lab. Now I can maintain 38.7C perfectly through the whole process (the most it rises to is 38.1C but recovers before it has any negligible effect on the actual chemical temperatures). I swear I am now getting better results than my local lab. I wanna know more about this too.
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May 30, 2016 22:18
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Okay, so going off my last post, I've added a a dark bag, a tank with reel, and a 35mm casette opener to my B&H cart. I already have measuring cups and a thermometer. I think all I need is a developer, stop bath, and fixer. Does anyone have recommendations for those? I almost only shoot tri-x 400.
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May 31, 2016 19:00
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D-76, stop baths are for wimps
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May 31, 2016 19:07
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How much/often do you shoot? Do you plan on pushing or shooting box speed? Don't buy a stop bath, just rinse in tempered water between developer and fix. Fixer, just get any plain Rapid Fixer, whether it's Ilford, Kodak, or some other brand. Make sure you have a way to dry the film after the final rinse. Strongly consider a wetting agent to help even drying.
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May 31, 2016 19:10
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I shoot minimum 1 b+w roll a week. Sometimes 2-3. I do push tri-x to 800 sort of frequently, but I'd be fine holding off on doing that if it's much more complex. I actually need a negative scanner as well, one of my main issues with the lab I've used in the past is their scanner is absolutely terrible. Karl Barks fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 31, 2016 |
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May 31, 2016 19:12
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Karl Barks posted:I shoot minimum 1 b+w roll a week. Sometimes 2-3. I do push tri-x to 800 sort of frequently, but I'd be fine holding off on doing that if it's much more complex. I also shoot Tri-X at 800 regularly, my development is as follows: -D-76 1+1 at 68F for 11:30 -rinse w/ tap water -Ilford Rapid Fix -rinse w/tap water -pour in some water that I have mixed with Jet Dry or Photo Flo and sloosh it around -hang film to dry
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May 31, 2016 19:18
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You only need a wetting agent if you have hard water.
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May 31, 2016 19:18
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With that volume, consider getting a pack of Xtol then. It only gets sold in bags for mixing 5 L of stock solution, and you have to mix the entire thing at once, so you'll also need several bottles to hold it in. If you seal the bottles properly they should be able to keep a full year or perhaps more if you end up taking a break.
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May 31, 2016 19:19
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Karl Barks posted:Okay, so going off my last post, I've added a a dark bag, a tank with reel, and a 35mm casette opener to my B&H cart. I already have measuring cups and a thermometer. I like Rodinal because stand dev is the lazy man's dev. Dump in the developer and go watch TV for an hour. As for opening 35mm, this is all I use: http://www.amazon.com/Chef-Craft-Bottle-Opener-Tapper/dp/B00LSD7OSE/
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May 31, 2016 19:39
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Karl Barks posted:Okay, so going off my last post, I've added a a dark bag, a tank with reel, and a 35mm casette opener to my B&H cart. I already have measuring cups and a thermometer. A friend of mine who shoots only trix and then scans with an archival grade scanner and does not care about forever storage of negatives uses a monobath based on a mix of HC-110 and Illford rapid fixer that he can use 15 or 20 times before dumping, does the whole process in a tub of water sitting on a hot/cold plate, adjusts temp not time to push, and rinses with a mix of vinegar and distilled water. It looks no worse than my lab developed negatives, but may not archive well and temp control is a must. If you are looking for the cheapest process I can ask him to write up the whole thing, but his estimate was like 100 yen per roll in the worst case.
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May 31, 2016 20:17
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Thank you everyone! I ended up going with d-76 and ilford rapid fix as those seemed to be popular choices for tri-x. Everything arrives tomorrow (thank you B&H expedited). I will definitely check out the others options mentioned as time goes on - xtol in particular.
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May 31, 2016 20:26
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I think that anything will develop Tri-X properly... I've done D-76, Rodinal, and lately been using 1:10 Dektol and always got decent results. Tri-x is very forgiving, thought if you're doing long pushes (say upward of 1600) you do want a mellow developer, unless you like Lillian Bassman... The same can't be said for other films. I've tried Pan F+ in the same Dektol solution and got literally milimeter-sized grain, its ridiculous...
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May 31, 2016 22:14
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Shots with my 1969 Kiev 10. I was testing the automatic setting which turns it into a shutter-priority point and shoot. Portra 400 in early twilight for the most part. Lincoln Continental MkV by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Jawa by Iain Compton, on Flickr  untitled-28.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr This one was on Colour200 film.  untitled-44.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
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May 31, 2016 23:23
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I use hc-110 for tri-x and tmax. I use a stop bath that I get by diluting household cleaning vinegar - 8% acetic acid - to 2%.
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Jun 1, 2016 12:18
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What do you guys do with your developer/fixer when you're done developing film at home? Is it kosher to dump it down the drain or do you collect it and drop it off for disposal somewhere?
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Jun 2, 2016 07:58
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