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Virigoth posted:Your final hydrometer reading(s) should be pre-carbonation while still in the fermenting vessel. The usual guideline to make sure fermentation is finished is 3 consistent readings in a 3 day period. Obviously there is opinion about how many days in a row, etc Got it. So, is there any way to know what the effects of priming and carbonating were? You'd assume it wouldn't have exactly the same ABV and body as before... Edit: I suppose at that point it doesn't really matter too much, as long as you know "it'll taste good if right before priming it was at X and I primed with Y" BrianBoitano fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Oct 5, 2013 |
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Oct 5, 2013 14:13
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I agree with the others; lager yeast is not really what you want for an Imperial Stout (I mean, it would be interesting to try, but...), and Baltic Porters are underappreciated. If your determining factor is the lager yeast you have lying around, then do a BP. Of course, this doesn't mean you can't do a RIS also, either with lager yeast or just with S-04 or something. The nice thing about 2.5-gallon atch sizes is that you can just pitch one packet of yeast and call it good, even for high-gravity beers.
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Oct 5, 2013 15:21
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Has anyone used persimmon in beer? I was thing about a 수정과 (sujeonggwa) (Korean tea of persimmon ginger and cinnamon) Christmas beer variant and i remember persimmon having some kind of trouble with fermentation.
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Oct 5, 2013 15:46
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wildfire1 posted:Lastly, I pitched the dregs of Rayon Vert (pale ale with brett) into a starter and have yeast flocculated at the bottom. If I'm trying to build up a big brett starter to separate into multiple batches so I can innoculate different beers, am I better off taking the mostly fermented wort and making a new starter with it? My thought is that the Sacc from the pale ale will be what's flocculated at the bottom and the Brett will still be floating around, superattenuating so when I make a new starter with just the liquid no yeast then it will be mostly brettanomyces? It's not a huge deal, since I won't be doing any primary fermentations but it would be nice to know that it's just (or mostly just) brett in there instead of US-05 or whatever with a tiny bit of brett. You're going to get just as much Brett dropping out of suspension as sac, so don't worry about trying to get cute with it (especially in a multi-stage starter). Keep that in mind when you pitch, too. A lot of people make the mistake (myself included) that when a brewery does "[style] with Brett" the stuff you culture will be a perfect blend of bugs to clone the beer. That's very rarely the case though, so think hard about why/what you actually want the Brett to do before you dump it in.
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Oct 5, 2013 15:58
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fullroundaction posted:You're going to get just as much Brett dropping out of suspension as sac, so don't worry about trying to get cute with it (especially in a multi-stage starter). Keep that in mind when you pitch, too. A lot of people make the mistake (myself included) that when a brewery does "[style] with Brett" the stuff you culture will be a perfect blend of bugs to clone the beer. That's very rarely the case though, so think hard about why/what you actually want the Brett to do before you dump it in. Oh, I'm not trying to clone Rayon Vert, I'm trying to make a Saison with brett. Ideally I'd be able to reuse the yeast cake, which means as little Sach from the Rayon Vert as possible as I want as much fruitiness from the Belgian Saison yeast as possible with a lot of brett character. Clean flavours ain't what I'm looking for  Looks like I might as well save this for another time then, and invest in a pure brett strain.
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Oct 5, 2013 16:54
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You'd most likely be fine mashing high and using Belgian Saison to take it down to like 1.008 (or wherever) and then letting your RV starter take it down the rest of the way. I don't know what yeasts RV uses, but it's likely the sac won't have anything left that the saison yeast didn't already eat, leaving the brett with free reign over any leftover fermentables.
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Oct 5, 2013 17:06
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wildfire1 posted:Oh, I'm not trying to clone Rayon Vert, I'm trying to make a Saison with brett. Ideally I'd be able to reuse the yeast cake, which means as little Sach from the Rayon Vert as possible as I want as much fruitiness from the Belgian Saison yeast as possible with a lot of brett character. Clean flavours ain't what I'm looking for There's another problem with generational pitching on cakes containing sour organisms though. It apparently goes south pretty quickly as bacteria out competes the sach and the brett. I would personally include the cultivated brett strains you can buy since its tough not to have them come out with a bit of bacteria (or even ideal like for the Orval clone strain. That sour tinge doesn't come from the brett). I guess you could try to work some evolutionary magic by hopping your beers such that the bacteria are reined in but barring a yeast lab there's a reason American sour makers do sach primarys as normal and have a barrel program where the bugs live as wood tends to regulate the colony very well.
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Oct 5, 2013 17:17
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Thanks for your help guys! I will just reuse the yeast cake, and if I find there's noticeable off flavours from the yeast that can't tolerate high temps then I'll start from scratch with a proper culture.
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Oct 5, 2013 17:21
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So a newbie still reading through Complete Joy and HTB. Got a kit for my birfday. I have all the organic portions I need(hops, malt, yeast, etc). For hardware the kit came with: Stainless steel brew pot 5g Plastic Pale fermentor 6ft tubing for siphoning Rack tubing thing that goes into the fermentor for siphoning. An attachment that goes on the tubing for bottling that has a control spout on it. Ferm Lock(actually need to pick this up today since they forgot to put it in the kit) Capper + Caps I have a $25 gift cert to the shop. This is my first brew but I dont see myself saying "ARGH THIS SUCKS!" What should I naturally invest in next since I'm 100% newbie? A carboy for doing 2 stage ferm? propane flame? thermometer? something for cooling?
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Oct 5, 2013 18:55
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Duxwig posted:something for cooling? This is my vote, get an immersion chiller. The ability to cool your wort to pitching temps and not getting frustrated and pitching at 70*F+ will greatly increase the quality of your beer and make your brewday shorter.
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Oct 5, 2013 19:01
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Jo3sh posted:I agree with the others; lager yeast is not really what you want for an Imperial Stout (I mean, it would be interesting to try, but...), and Baltic Porters are underappreciated. If your determining factor is the lager yeast you have lying around, then do a BP. Of course, this doesn't mean you can't do a RIS also, either with lager yeast or just with S-04 or something. The nice thing about 2.5-gallon atch sizes is that you can just pitch one packet of yeast and call it good, even for high-gravity beers. Alright, so I will drop the lager yeast idea. In terms of recipe, though, any suggestions? My fall back is just to go to Jamil's.
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Oct 5, 2013 19:18
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ScaerCroe posted:Alright, so I will drop the lager yeast idea. In terms of recipe, though, any suggestions? My fall back is just to go to Jamil's. Here's the one I did most recently. you could leave out the oak and the whiskey if you wanted to: http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/whiskey-barrel-old-irascible For the dark candi syrup, use D90. Don't forget to scale to your batch size.
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Oct 5, 2013 19:24
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I found 2 oz of UK Fuggles and 1 oz of Glacier in the freezer. I have no idea when or why I bought them. What should I brew with them? Porter?
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Oct 5, 2013 20:16
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Jo3sh posted:Here's the one I did most recently. you could leave out the oak and the whiskey if you wanted to: Most recipes I have seen demand something like US-05. I like that use of an English Ale yeast. Thanks Jo3sh!
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Oct 5, 2013 21:13
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ScaerCroe posted:Most recipes I have seen demand something like US-05. I like that use of an English Ale yeast. Thanks Jo3sh! Of course, I hope it treats you as well as it did me. I used 2 packets of S-04 per five gallons and it blew the lids off my buckets. Learn from my experience and rig for blowoff from the start.
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Oct 5, 2013 21:22
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I don't really "do" meads but because I don't have the space for beer right now that is where I am at. I've got about 4.5 gallons of mead that is stuck and I want to dilute to 6 gallons. As I said, it is stuck and the yeast (cote des blances) has gone sleepy-go-bye-bye. If I transfer to secondary and dilute, will the yeast "wake up" or should I add new yeast?
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Oct 5, 2013 21:56
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I'm fermenting some hard cider and pitched the yeast (Red Star Cote des Blancs) with a sky high 1.085 S.G.. The yeast quickly went crazy and stayed that way for 7 days until they slowed way down. Seeing a bug in my already sanitized siphon tube forced me to throw it out on gut reaction, and I wasn't able to make it to the home brewing store to replace it until 2 days later. That night, I racked it into my secondary fermenter (at a .995 S.G. which puts it at 11.8 ~ 12.4 ABV depending on which algorithm you use) and noticed curiously little lees in the bottom of the primary. The next morning, there was an inch of lees on the bottom of the carboy already. The recipe I'm following advises to leave the cider in here for 3 more weeks. Is it okay for the cider to sit on the lees that long without imparting nasty flavors or should I re-rack it?
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Oct 5, 2013 |
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Oct 5, 2013 22:03
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Shbobdb posted:I don't really "do" meads but because I don't have the space for beer right now that is where I am at. I've got about 4.5 gallons of mead that is stuck and I want to dilute to 6 gallons. As I said, it is stuck and the yeast (cote des blances) has gone sleepy-go-bye-bye. If I transfer to secondary and dilute, will the yeast "wake up" or should I add new yeast? Is it asleep because it's boozed out? What's the yeast's tolerance and what was your OG and current reading? What was your nutrient schedule, and expected FG?
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Oct 5, 2013 22:03
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Paladine_PSoT posted:Is it asleep because it's boozed out? What's the yeast's tolerance and what was your OG and current reading? What was your nutrient schedule, and expected FG? The short version: I'm gonna crosspost this with the TCC stimulant page, so to save you some time . . . I added a bunch of nutrient and calcium carbonate. We are looking at a final product of 13.5lb honey plus 0.5L Verjus, 2 gallons prune juice brought up to 4.5 gallons with (treated) water. Been about 2 months. The mead has a nice port-like quality, a nice alcohol kick. So right now I'm assuming that the alcohol tolerance of the yeast has been reached. If I add more water, should the yeast re-activate or once alcohol has knocked them out are they out for the count? The TCC version: I try to avoid that kind of technical brewing. I only check OG/FG with beer because I want to make sure that I'm not missing something critical wrt efficiency. In the case of mead, there is no need. You add a know amount of ingredients, there you go. The yeast's tolerance is about 12-14% (it leaves some residual sugar, which is good in a mead). The mead was brewed in two phases: Phase 1: Omphacomel 3lbs Honey, 1L Verjus, 7L (very soft) H2O. 3 tablespoons calcium bicarbonate and a sort of mix of yeast nutrient. Most of it was clearly made in shop, in two parts, you add one to the yeast while you are rehydrating and the other to the brew. I added 5 gals worth, plus 2x the recommended amount of Wyeast beer nutrient for 5 gallons*. I let that guy ferment for 3 weeks. Took a gallon off the top and drank it. Fantastic! Best damned thing ever, would do again 100%. Super tight yeast cake too, I like this cote des blances yeast, good stuff. Wanted to scale up, bought 12lb honey** and was good to go! But the grocery store next door ran out of verjus/husroum/ab-gooreh/sour grape juice -- whatever you want to call it. So . . . Phase 2: I added the honey, stirred it up. Stirred it up good. Then I added 2 gallons of prune juice*** and then brought the whole mixture up to an eyeballed (new carboy doesn't have markings) 5 gallons with treated water (I treated 3 gallons of water with 1/4th campden tablet and let it air out overnight and the next day I brought it to a boil then let it cool to get rid of any excess sulfite because I'm paranoid about that poo poo). To the boil, I added some more nutrient and calcium carbonate (was drunk, I wanna say 1 teaspoon of the Wyeast and 2 tablespoons of the calcium carbonate. Gotta keep that pH DOWN son!). Fermented nicely for a bit then slowed down (all normal). Stirred it up again to get some of that nagging honey fully into solution and see if I can kickstart the fermentation. Waited 2 weeks. Repeat. But at this point it has just sorta stopped and I want to dilute it anyway. I accidentally bought a 6 gallon secondary and this is a great thing to forget in secondary for a while. So, will the yeast likely hack it or should I pitch some new guys? Also, what are people's experiences with re-using yeast from meads? I imagine they need a sort of brief "rehabilitation" period in a lower sugar (OG ~ 1.030 or whatever) environment with some yeast nutrient or a staggered brew but can I re-use the lees when I transfer to secondary? It's persimmon season, so time to make some country wine! *My limited experience with mead is that if you go overboard with nutrients you can have a drinkable product in about 3 months. Within reason, a buddy added way too much one time and the mead came out tasting strange. He thought it was "meaty", I thought it tasted like vegemite. Either way, too much autolysed yeast extract! ** BTW, if you've got a little Araby or little Persia check that poo poo out for honey. Especially if the hood seems devout. They've got the whole honey terrior thing figured out pretty well. In my experience, those vendors will sperg out on you about different kinds of honey and sell in bulk. Fantastic built-in knowledge base. ***I'm a sucker for jerkum, but the nature of the drink is such that you can only drink so much before "bad things" start to happen, increasing the octane rating should help me do more with less!
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Oct 5, 2013 23:50
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RagingBoner posted:Just made an AMAZING cider. I've tried all sorts of methods, but this has the best results with the quickest turnaround. Did this. It owns. I kinda skipped/merged the last few steps because I got impatient. It was crystal clear and 1.002 after a month so I went ahead and added it to the keg with the campden, potassium sorbate, and juice concentrate. Tossed it in the keezer and applied CO2. That was this morning so obviously it needs a few more days to get the proper carbonation but it's already delicious. Thanks for the recipe. I will be doing this again.
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Oct 6, 2013 00:29
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Galler posted:Did this. It owns. I kinda skipped/merged the last few steps because I got impatient. It was crystal clear and 1.002 after a month so I went ahead and added it to the keg with the campden, potassium sorbate, and juice concentrate. Tossed it in the keezer and applied CO2. That was this morning so obviously it needs a few more days to get the proper carbonation but it's already delicious. Thanks for the recipe. I will be doing this again. What is the purpose of the tea? Just for color?
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Oct 6, 2013 00:37
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Tannins. Apple juice is pretty one dimensional.
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Oct 6, 2013 00:51
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Shbobdb posted:The short version: Hrmm... you're almost there. Even with adding 1g water, the alcohol would still be near the top of the yeast's range. It's not very likely they'd wake back up. I'd pitch a dry mead or champagne yeast to finish it off, but keep an eye on the gravity and as soon as the fermentables are gone, crash 'em out.
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Oct 6, 2013 01:06
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That's sorta what I thought. Thanks so much!
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Oct 6, 2013 01:08
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I want to whisky/wood age the next porter I make. I'm not planning on buying a barrel, so I'm thinking of soaking some oak cubes in whisky and dropping those in the secondary. Advice?
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Oct 6, 2013 03:12
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Imaduck posted:I want to whisky/wood age the next porter I make. I'm not planning on buying a barrel, so I'm thinking of soaking some oak cubes in whisky and dropping those in the secondary. Advice? I have only done it once. I did a vanilla porter earlier this year with oak honeycomb. I soaked the oak in a pint of everclear for a day and dumped it all into my fermenter, and left the oak in for maybe 3 weeks. The oak was a little overwhelming, so I left my bottles alone for maybe 3 months and it mellowed out just enough to be pretty awesome.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:16
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Started my annual cider today. The local market had Apple & Eve natural style juice on sale, so I picked up 5 gallons along with two pounds of panela. I used half a bottle to heat up on the stove top and dissolve the panela, making a pretty intense apple syrup that'll get added to primary. I used the remainder in the bottle as a starter for the Sweet Mead yeast. I'm hoping the panela will add a bit more character and some unfermentable sugars that you don't get with brown sugar or honey.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:19
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Galler posted:Did this. It owns. I kinda skipped/merged the last few steps because I got impatient. It was crystal clear and 1.002 after a month so I went ahead and added it to the keg with the campden, potassium sorbate, and juice concentrate. Tossed it in the keezer and applied CO2. That was this morning so obviously it needs a few more days to get the proper carbonation but it's already delicious. Thanks for the recipe. I will be doing this again. Oh awesome! Glad you liked it, I think everyone should keep a batch of this going at all times (if they have the spare carboy). Just to warn you, your cider may be a little green still, so the first few pints for a week or two may smell kinda sulphur-ey. It'll go away with time, though.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:35
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I posted a few weeks ago when I juiced my garden apples to make cider. I've had a bit of an interesting time with it. Juiced them, treated with 1tsp/gal Campden and 2tsp/gal Pectin enzyme. Left for 3 days. Got the cider yeast started in some sugar water for 24hrs. Pitched and mixed the starter in along with 2tsp yeast nutrient per gal, all like I've done in previous years with no trouble. Day 3, no airlock activity, maybe its just being slow? Day 7, still no airlock activity, checked with a hydrometer and its not moved from the starting 1.050. Made up a new yeast starter in the same way, pitched it in and mixed. Maybe for some reason residual campden killed the first load, it must be gone now. Day 3, no airlock activity,  , lets let it go a little longer. Day 7, still no airlock activity, checked with a hydrometer and its not moved from the starting 1.050,  .The sediment has settled pretty well by this point so I took the opportunity to rack the apple juice off. Its fully clear and there is what looks like a layer of yeast at the bottom of the sed. No obvious infection and it still tastes great, not even yeasty. I make up another starter, but with a wine yeast this time. Pitch/mix. Day 3 still nothing happening. I change tactics. I start another cider yeast starter. I take out a litre of juice. When the starter is going well I add 100ml of juice. Let it continue going for a few hours, add another 100ml. I repeated this over a few days until the container was full. Then I poured the starter into a demi-john, and half filled it with juice. After a day its bubbling away quite well, so I filled it to the top. 2 days later the airlock is roaring. Pitched the whole demi-john-starter into my main fermentation bucket. A day later and its finally started bubbling away  I don't know what the hell was going on but at least its finally going. I've never had such a problem getting yeast to eat sugar and poo poo alcohol before.
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Oct 6, 2013 12:18
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I've got a Russian Imperial Stout that I brewed two weeks ago that appears to be done. It was supposed to finish at 1.024 and is now at 1.017, though I will take another sample today to make sure it's stopped. My question is: is there a real difference between aging a beer like this in secondary vs in bottles? If so, what is it? I'd love to free up the carboy space ASAP, but if it will help the beer age better to rack it to secondary and leave it for a while, then I will do that. It's my first beer of this style, so it's hard to tell what it SHOULD taste like flat from a sample beaker, but it tastes pretty good to me. Not too hot, despite being at 9.5% instead of 8.5%.
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Oct 6, 2013 17:26
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At two weeks you've still got a lot of things going on in a big beer (such as diacytel cleanup) that definitely do benefit from bulk aging in the fermenter. After about a month the yeast is probably done doing anything it's going to do in the fermenter, so there becomes much less of a difference between bottle vs bulk aging. My opinion would be to let it sit for a couple more weeks then bottle when you need the space.
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Oct 6, 2013 17:39
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Do we have anyone he specializes in root beer or ginger beer or making any other naturally fermented sodas. In the same vein has anyone made kvass? In Seoul we have a Russian district where I can get the rye bread for it. I can now buy kvass here and it tastes like apple cider or my kombucha, but I wanted to try my own.
DontAskKant fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 6, 2013 18:10
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Does anyone have experience with the kettles from Spike Brewing? http://spikebrewing.com/ I want to upgrade my kettle in a semi-future-proof way for when I eventually have enough space that I can brew outdoors, and that 15 gallon with sight glass (even though I'm only doing 5 gallon batches) is calling my name. I'm also trying to figure out whether I want a false bottom or bazooka screen, though I'm leaning towards the latter as it will probably deal better with pellet hops. Thoughts?
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Oct 7, 2013 02:38
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crazyfish posted:Does anyone have experience with the kettles from Spike Brewing? http://spikebrewing.com/ I want to upgrade my kettle in a semi-future-proof way for when I eventually have enough space that I can brew outdoors, and that 15 gallon with sight glass (even though I'm only doing 5 gallon batches) is calling my name. I'm also trying to figure out whether I want a false bottom or bazooka screen, though I'm leaning towards the latter as it will probably deal better with pellet hops. Thoughts? Not from them specifically, but a lot of people I've talked to have recommended against a sight glass. All kinds of junk can get up inside them, and they are nearly impossible to clean. Why do you want a false bottom (or bazooka screen) for a kettle? Those typically go in your mash tun, to separate the grain from the wort. If you are worried about hop guff ending up in your fermenter, you can just whirlpool (cool your wort after the boil, then stir it into a whirlpool, and let it sit for about 10 minutes). BTW, it's not a big deal if you get lots of hop crud in your fermenter anyway, it just means you might lose a little bit of beer to trub absorption.
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Oct 7, 2013 02:54
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I have a 15 gallon kettle from them. I got it before the guy had a website, I found an ad on Craigslist and he sent me a sales brochure. I paid around $180 shipped for a 15 gallon kettle with two of those bulkhead things you attach valves to. It's pretty nice an I'm extremely happy with it. I think his prices have gone up, but then again I got it before he even had a website. It came with a false bottom, but not really one you'd use for brewing, it's more like a steamer bottom I guess. The lid is pretty heavy duty too. This was probably 2-3 years ago.
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Oct 7, 2013 03:32
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RagingBoner posted:Not from them specifically, but a lot of people I've talked to have recommended against a sight glass. All kinds of junk can get up inside them, and they are nearly impossible to clean. Thanks for the recommendation about the sight glass. It's pretty expensive (and likely fragile as well) so I'll leave it out. It seems like most of my brewing mess cleanup is spilling wort on the floor post boil when trying to dump it into the fermenter, so some kind of ball valve on the kettle is high on my list of things to purchase. As well, at some point I may want to upgrade to lower gravity 10 gallon batches, and lifting 10 gallons of water in a stainless pot isn't *that* bad but it could be ornerous. I figure there should be *some* kind of filter on the ball valve whether that be a bazooka screen or a false bottom.
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Oct 7, 2013 04:00
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Nottingham is a pretty amazing little yeast. Just for grins and to test my keezer for real lagering, I'm currently doing 2 gallons of Czech "Pilsner-Ale" at 56 degrees and those little buggers have made a great krausen and are chugging away like nobody's business.
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Oct 7, 2013 04:13
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I need ideas for airlock/blowoff options for a Better Bottle with a limited amount of vertical space (about 1 1/2"-2"). I just got my minifridge fermentation chamber and it's a tight fit. A BB with universal bung and 3-piece airlock doesn't fit. A BB with an orange carboy cap does fit, and I can get 1/2" ID tubing over the shorter straight opening, but I'm not too sure about the orange carboy caps in general, they seem too loose fitting to be trustworthy. A 1/4" ID 3/8" OD racking cane fits in a stopper/bung, so I could use the hook end into some 3/8" ID tubing, but I'm a little worried about that being a big enough blowoff tube. Then again, the blowoff tubes I've done so far have just been the body of a 3-piece airlock with 1/2" ID tubing over the stem, so they still have the opening of the airlock as the bottleneck. There's always the possibility of getting the like $17 Better Bottle PET closure thing and doing a PVC elbow, which I think would probably fit, but that's getting into pretty expensive territory, and I'd rather be able to see inside my blowoff tube so I have an idea if it's getting clogged. I've thought about just drilling a stopper to fit 1/2" ID tubing, but I think I'd need a 90 degree elbow in order to not crimp the tubing. Maybe a bigger ID racking cane?
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Oct 7, 2013 15:34
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more falafel please posted:I need ideas for airlock/blowoff options for a Better Bottle with a limited amount of vertical space (about 1 1/2"-2"). I just got my minifridge fermentation chamber and it's a tight fit. A BB with universal bung and 3-piece airlock doesn't fit. A BB with an orange carboy cap does fit, and I can get 1/2" ID tubing over the shorter straight opening, but I'm not too sure about the orange carboy caps in general, they seem too loose fitting to be trustworthy. How much clearance do you have between the top of the bottle and the fridge? I would look at just jamming a piece of tubing that's the same diameter as the mouth of the BB. Barring that I think 3/8" tubing will be fine unless you're dealing with some kind of monster beer. You could also take a solid bung and drill 2-3 3/8" holes in it so you can have multiple blowoff tubes.
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Oct 7, 2013 17:40
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Well, test run #1 of my March pump and recirculation system. It was kind of a huge disaster, but I'm going to chalk it up to a learning experience which tells me I need better hoses and I need to invest in a camlock system and an organized brewing area because hoses coming off and spraying hot wort all over your running electrical pump sounds like a loving disaster waiting to happen. Also, I used anti-foam since I filled up my bucket really high, but I accidentally squeezed the plunger pretty hard and like a little stream came out instead of the 12 drops I was planning. I just stopped after that. Are my kidneys going to stop functioning? Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 19:39
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