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I've been doing this: Made up the whole package of Xtol which was too much so half went into datatainer, half into empty water jug. Always make up 1+1 for dev and one-shot. After pouring out of datatainer I replace with liquid from the jug. I keep the jug topped up with no air bubbles, but not the jug. I am pretty sure that I could end up with the developer failing at some point because of this. I try to be gentle with agitation and add contrast after scanning. I think I get better detail preservation that way but really I have no idea. My next developer batch will have better containers. That was my compulsive journal-post. Here's my question: is developing for "flat", low-contrast negs and using a high-contrast paper or chemical printing process (if that even exists) a thing to do? I wonder about the day I eventually put together a darkroom with enlarger.
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Jul 6, 2016 00:12
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| # ? May 24, 2024 01:46 |
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 Ricoh 35FM viewfinder. Really simple point-and-shoot you can pick up for cheap on eBay, I think from the 1970s or 1980s. I filled up a good part of the roll on a legal trip to Atlanta but haven't taken them for developing yet.
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Jul 6, 2016 00:14
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chitoryu12 posted:
Please spoiler this, viewfinders are very triggering for some readers of this thread.
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Jul 6, 2016 00:26
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You guys were talking about negative scanners a bit. What would you recommend? Sounds like the v600 isn't that good? I'd like something that does 35mm and MF since I'll eventually go down that path. Around 500 bucks would be great too. The 35mm low rez scans I'm getting back from the darkroom are just ok and I don't want to pay 4 additional dollars for a little more resolution per roll. Makes more sense to buy my own, especially with doing my own development on the horizon.
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Jul 6, 2016 00:54
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SMERSH Mouth posted:That was my compulsive journal-post. Here's my question: is developing for "flat", low-contrast negs and using a high-contrast paper or chemical printing process (if that even exists) a thing to do? I wonder about the day I eventually put together a darkroom with enlarger. With a neg if you want to wet print with an enlarger, just make sure the negative has all the detail you want in the shadows and highlights, and you should be able to print it fine using the standard filter set. If you want to do alt process printing, the negative is much more important, typically you'll want something high-contrast, and getting the density right for the process is quite a battle. Hence, why people use printed negatives for alt processing, as it gives you total control.
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Jul 6, 2016 01:01
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I use a V700 for everything. 35mm is a huge loving hassle. I just load the 35mm tray normally to "preview" my shots and if there's any keepers, I re-scan them with the better scanning ANR glass.............. buuuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt but but but since Tri-X curls like no one's business, I end up strapping the glass to the tray with rubber bands to keep it flat. It's a stupid work-around solution, but it seems to work really well when I take the time to do it. The 120 Better Scanning tray + ANR glass will get you where you need to go on that front no problemo.
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Jul 6, 2016 01:04
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Is there one of those 35mm film scanners that isn't total rear end? It'd be nice to just get flickr quality scans from those without doing too much fuckery. My flatbed sucks for 35mm (as people have mentioned).
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Jul 6, 2016 01:19
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I must have the magical V550, my 35mm scans usually turn out pretty good (or I have low standards) 
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Jul 6, 2016 01:38
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Choicecut posted:You guys were talking about negative scanners a bit. What would you recommend? Sounds like the v600 isn't that good? I'd like something that does 35mm and MF since I'll eventually go down that path. Around 500 bucks would be great too. Luckily B&H has you covered! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/film-scanners
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Jul 6, 2016 02:22
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Helicity posted:Is there one of those 35mm film scanners that isn't total rear end? It'd be nice to just get flickr quality scans from those without doing too much fuckery. My flatbed sucks for 35mm (as people have mentioned). Based on the results I've seen, if you're just doing 35mm, a macro lens is a better investment if you have a digital camera to back it up. If you're rich just pay for drum scans.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:22
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So with my digicam whenever I shoot snow I always overexpose by around 1.5 stops. Is it safe to assume that the rule of thumb is the same when shooting with film? If it matters I'll be shooting Ektar 100 and getting it developped at London Drugs probably.
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Jul 6, 2016 02:57
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Try to shoot Ektar at box speed. If you're not sure, round to the stop of overexposure. It's a bit more forgiving than slide film but it doesn't handle underexposure well at all.
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Jul 6, 2016 03:00
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Ok, yeah, I've been shooting at ISO 100 but was going to take the shutter speed down a notch to overexpose. Thanks!
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Jul 6, 2016 03:40
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Spedman posted:I must have the magical V550, my 35mm scans usually turn out pretty good (or I have low standards) If you could post an example from your v550 sometime I'd be really interested in taking a look to
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Jul 6, 2016 04:00
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chitoryu12 posted:
christ, what entails an illegal trip to atlanta?
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Jul 6, 2016 04:45
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SMERSH Mouth posted:If you could post an example from your v550 sometime I'd be really interested in taking a look to This one is heavily cropped from the original    EDIT: Clearly not as sharp as my MF or LF Spedman fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 04:57
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Choicecut posted:You guys were talking about negative scanners a bit. What would you recommend? Sounds like the v600 isn't that good? I'd like something that does 35mm and MF since I'll eventually go down that path. Around 500 bucks would be great too. nikon super coolscan 5000 ed
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Jul 6, 2016 05:41
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alkanphel posted:Luckily B&H has you covered! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/film-scanners Thanks for this! After reading that, I think an epson V series would be good enough for me. And these: Spedman posted:Scans Make me think even a 500 or 550 would be good enough. The scans I'm getting from darkroom seem like very quick scans. atomicthumbs posted:nikon super coolscan 5000 ed Lol.
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Jul 6, 2016 13:23
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voodoorootbeer posted:christ, what entails an illegal trip to atlanta? Driving a car through a Walking Dead shoot? It was a court date. Fired employee of a company that got shuttered and moved to Florida trying to sue for back pay and Christmas bonuses that were given out after she was fired. She failed, but I took the opportunity to take some photos of the city and some stops around it.
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Jul 6, 2016 13:33
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My final order of FP-100C just shipped!  It looks like it's still trickling in, and B&H is honoring prices as they were placed.When it gets here my stash will be just under 50 packs total: 23 packs FP-3000B 22 packs FP-100C 4 packs FP-100B
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Jul 6, 2016 15:09
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voodoorootbeer posted:christ, what entails an illegal trip to atlanta? dammit i wanted to make this joke
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Jul 6, 2016 17:04
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what a jerk
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Jul 6, 2016 20:31
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this lens is finally mine and holy poo poo you guys this is the raddest loving thing   
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Jul 7, 2016 15:53
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FA gets no love...
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Jul 7, 2016 16:56
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DJExile posted:this lens is finally mine and holy poo poo you guys this is the raddest loving thing 5318008
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Jul 7, 2016 18:38
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MrBlandAverage posted:Freestyle says Fujifilm is no longer going to sell Acros 4x5 in the US market. I bought 10 boxes - that should last me a good while... Turns out Freestyle is wrong! 
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Jul 9, 2016 20:38
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Helicity posted:Is there one of those 35mm film scanners that isn't total rear end? It'd be nice to just get flickr quality scans from those without doing too much fuckery. My flatbed sucks for 35mm (as people have mentioned). I've said this a bunch but get a Pakon 135. I think there's a hack in the FB group so it scans 16-base (2048 × 3072) like the 135+. It's a professional scanner so there's little or no interpolation like flatbeds. It also scans a roll of 36 with dust/scratch correction in like 10 minutes, unattended. It also nails the colors for most films off the bat.
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Jul 10, 2016 20:30
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Oh yeah, so I got some fresh Portra 400 back and it's super grainy and cyan. That most likely means spent developer, right?
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Jul 10, 2016 20:33
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Chill Callahan posted:Oh yeah, so I got some fresh Portra 400 back and it's super grainy and cyan. That most likely means spent developer, right? If they're grainy it probably means they're thin negs, which points towards either spent dev, too low temp or too short time in dev http://www.maco-photo.de/files/images/C41_InstructionManual.pdf
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Jul 10, 2016 23:14
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Could be badly underexposed as well
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Jul 11, 2016 03:35
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Can anyone recommend a good place to get film developed in the Washington DC area? Preferably in Virginia or DC. I'm currently leaning towards this place out of convenience: http://www.dominioncamera.com/index.html
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Jul 11, 2016 04:34
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Chill Callahan posted:Oh yeah, so I got some fresh Portra 400 back and it's super grainy and cyan. That most likely means spent developer, right? For a good point of reference to see whether it's underexposure or developer problems - it would be a good idea compare the edge markings of a known good roll to your potentially misdeveloped one.
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Jul 11, 2016 04:37
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Shot a roll of tri-x through my me super which needs a few whacks and film advances before it will cock if it hasn't been shot in the last ~24hours. In the middle of my roll I have 8 or so shots that turned out like this: Is this the mirror not behaving properly or a shutter problem? The mirror doesn't stick at all when I look at it + gently lift it with a finger. I was shooting the tri-x at 1600 and had fairly high shutter speeds for some of these shots - a possible reason why there was an issue? Thanks.
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Jul 11, 2016 06:19
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It's time for a CLA or new camera.
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Jul 11, 2016 06:25
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burzum karaoke posted:It's time for a CLA or new camera. It's a $40 me super so I'm not going to CLA it but maybe time to pay KEH a visit. A bummer since I had to repair it to get it to cock at all.
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Jul 11, 2016 06:42
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hi liter posted:Can anyone recommend a good place to get film developed in the Washington DC area? Preferably in Virginia or DC. I'm currently leaning towards this place out of convenience: http://www.dominioncamera.com/index.html If you end up using them, please post your thoughts. I'm close by but still mailing back to NYC.
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Jul 11, 2016 11:56
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hi liter posted:Can anyone recommend a good place to get film developed in the Washington DC area? Preferably in Virginia or DC. I'm currently leaning towards this place out of convenience: http://www.dominioncamera.com/index.html When I was living in DC I usually brought my stuff here: http://www.dodgechrome.com/ Really nice people, only downside is their actual development place is in Silver Spring, so it takes a little longer to get your stuff back. But the quality is good and they develop E-6 as well as C-41.
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Jul 11, 2016 13:40
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Speaking of film development, does anybody have any recommendations for a good place that does 120 in central New Jersey? I'm sure I could always find one in NYC but I don't want to have to make the trek out there if I don't have to.
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Jul 14, 2016 18:36
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Argh, I've got some poo poo in my sky: (levels adjusted and red lines added to show exactly what I'm addressing) I processed at home with freshly mixed developer + blix. My stabilizer smelled a little funny (also newly mixed but stored in a bottle that used to have old stab in it). Anyone wager a guess as to what cased this? Other frames seem ok.
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Jul 15, 2016 03:43
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| # ? May 24, 2024 01:46 |
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There's also a weird halo around the bird house - maybe you aren't agitating enough and letting the developer pool?
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Jul 15, 2016 04:41
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