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Sorry, sorry! I wouldn't have posted it if I knew everybody was going to watch the entire 15 minute video. lol owned
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Feb 16, 2024 20:44
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Oh I didn't watch the whole video. He pissed me off within the first 15 seconds
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Feb 16, 2024 20:56
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Sagebrush posted:Oh I didn't watch the whole video. He pissed me off within the first 15 seconds Same. I may stupid as gently caress, but not that stupid.
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Feb 16, 2024 22:42
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acidx posted:companies give Titan machines and tools to use in his videos. Oh, it's worse than that: companies pay Titan to use their machines and tools in his videos. I used to work for a machine tool builder that gave him a pretty darn expensive machine. He shot a couple vids with it, then demanded payment to show it. They pulled it right back. Just Winging It posted:Machining centers aren't exactly impulse buys. Honestly more than you'd think. Yeah, some companies have whole competitive bid processes, but others? Nah, they'll just take the first thing they hear about that seems like it might meet the requirements. I asked the same question about getting google ads, but it was all about having the company name pop up first to get the contact info, getting the salesperson in the door, and getting a contract signed before they could research other alternatives. And this was for poo poo like horizontals with pallet pools or ultra-precision 5-axis machines, not a cheapo vertical or something.
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Feb 17, 2024 00:25
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I've had Titans on my "don't recommend this" list for years. Absolute loving trash channel.
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Feb 17, 2024 01:12
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ryanrs posted:Yeah, brass is so much nicer to machine. That's still worth $$$ today in production machining, since you can run insane speeds and cut down cycle time. haha what the gently caress they have a synchronized backworking spindle and they're just using it to pull stock out of the chuck? are the bar feeders unable to feed bars?
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Feb 17, 2024 03:10
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:The people who think Titan is cool and good, guy is a massive tool. I hate that dude so goddamn much. He’s completely unavoidable for 3DEXPERIENCE WORLD.
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Feb 17, 2024 04:23
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It always seemed to me that Titan wants to get people excited for working in a machine shop, learn the trade on the job and earn a big salary, but then my understanding is that in the US it's a very low wage job and people are just chewed up and spat out.
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Feb 17, 2024 06:16
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plus, China is really good at machining stuff
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Feb 17, 2024 06:27
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Dance Officer posted:It always seemed to me that Titan wants to get people excited for working in a machine shop, learn the trade on the job and earn a big salary, but then my understanding is that in the US it's a very low wage job and people are just chewed up and spat out. When my job at a startup that made CNC machines announced it was moving, I asked a former machinist friend about training to become a machinist. Her advice was "Do literally anything except this." And then google "machinist hourly rate forum". It's endless posts with dudes saying things like "I started as a machinist in 1992 making $22/hour, and now in 2017 I'm making $25/hour and I still have to live in Florida" I'm hard-pressed to think of a career with a worse pay:skill ratio.
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Feb 17, 2024 06:31
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Seems like machining custom one off parts for vintage cars could be lucrative, but extremely hard to break into There's like 700 pre war Bentleys and about half of them get raced pretty hard at least once a year. They also have a wild engine design with no head gasket so there's no parts compatibility with anything. If something on that breaks it's gonna be a totally custom job Same goes for Bugattis from the 20s and 30s, they have crank shafts that come apart into about 20 pieces to replace the roller bearings etc. Citroen synchros aren't super hard to machine but they do wear out and so far the community has gotten by scavenging them from other cars but things are gonna get real dire here in another 20 years
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Feb 17, 2024 09:43
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Yea it's pretty rough out there. I think wages maybe have gone up recently as we're losing a lot of people to burnout and retirement, but I doubt it's much. I consider myself extremely lucky, I'm very good at a niche process in a very niche field.
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Feb 17, 2024 09:46
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea it's pretty rough out there. I think wages maybe have gone up recently as we're losing a lot of people to burnout and retirement, but I doubt it's much. Wages went up during COVID and during the supply chain crisis. Now I'm seeing the old, bad, habits coming back. Purchasers chasing pennies overseas, dumped product, and a whole slew of "the boat is late and our line is down, can you rush...?". On the plus side we're seeing some some folks do a "pricing scorecard" where they balance actual $$$ price, with modifiers for quality and delivery. So suddenly that $2 part looks expensive compared to our $3 part. But there will always be a race to the bottom and that's hard to compete against. We're early into a potential nuclear customer so that's really exciting.  I know how I'd put in the arc using a prog stamp or stamping press, but what's a garage/low volume prototype method? Looking at brass, aluminum, stainless, or titanium. I don't mind fabbing up some dies, but forming like this is new to me so I'm not even sure the proper terminology.
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Feb 17, 2024 13:54
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Yooper posted:
You could Wire EDM them out of plate that's machined to the 7mm thickness. Not sure if that's too expensive for what you're looking for. I'd probably quote them at $25/pc on wire fyi A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Feb 17, 2024 |
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Feb 17, 2024 14:12
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A Proper Uppercut posted:You could Wire EDM them out of plate that's machined to the 7mm thickness. Not sure if that's too expensive for what you're looking for. I hadn't thought of EDM, but am looking for something cheaper with a stamping or press. Going to have ~12 of them stacked up, so it'd get cost prohibitive with EDM. I probably should have removed all the zero's from the print, tolerancing is wide open.
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Feb 17, 2024 14:24
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Yooper posted:I hadn't thought of EDM, but am looking for something cheaper with a stamping or press. Going to have ~12 of them stacked up, so it'd get cost prohibitive with EDM. I probably should have removed all the zero's from the print, tolerancing is wide open. I would cut a strip to width and the length of several parts. Use a sheet metal roller to get the radius. Then cut to length once the radius is correct. Doing a long strip lets you cut off the start/finish where the roller will leave a flat spot.
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Feb 17, 2024 14:52
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Yooper posted:I probably should have removed all the zero's from the print, tolerancing is wide open. Wish more engineers would realize this.
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Feb 17, 2024 14:57
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Yooper posted:On the plus side we're seeing some some folks do a "pricing scorecard" where they balance actual $$$ price, with modifiers for quality and delivery. So suddenly that $2 part looks expensive compared to our $3 part. I haven’t seen this methodology before. Do you basically get someone’s part or drawings and say “doing it right and this week costs $X; if you have only 2 critical callouts it costs $X-Y, if you can receive it next month it costs $X-Z, if you can do both it costs $X-Y-Z”?
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Feb 17, 2024 15:03
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Dance Officer posted:It always seemed to me that Titan wants to get people excited for working in a machine shop, learn the trade on the job and earn a big salary, but then my understanding is that in the US it's a very low wage job and people are just chewed up and spat out. Titan loving sucks but I think the niche is splitting the gap between talented manual machinist doing one offs in the home shop and super polished learn nothing CNC advertising videos. I go to some of the trade shows and open houses for machining and it seems like 2/3rds of the people there are just management types that have a limited idea of what's happening. If they own a Harley then titan probably helps them pick new tooling and machines. As for pay here it's all over the place. Sub $20 to $50+ per hour depending on the shop, experience, and skill level. Talented people with tons of exp that are allergic to computers get stuck on the low end. Huge shops keep people from learning new stuff so they can't demand raises or jump ship easily. If you're new a lot of people won't teach you how to do what they do for job security. All this can make it very hard to move up.
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Feb 17, 2024 15:28
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ZincBoy posted:I would cut a strip to width and the length of several parts. Use a sheet metal roller to get the radius. Then cut to length once the radius is correct. Doing a long strip lets you cut off the start/finish where the roller will leave a flat spot. Same, I'd use a slip roller on strips of metal cut long and trimmed after rolling. If you don't have a roller I'd bump bend it on a homemade 3-point bend setup. Do three points, set stops to get the right radius, then work the strip through setup doing a new bend every few inches, it'll be pretty close to a continuous bend if you take your time and do enough bumps.
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Feb 17, 2024 15:51
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Yooper posted:
What is the purpose of this part and how is it that four different metals are suitable for it with no changes to the geometry? All of those metals will have quite different behavior -- elasticity, tensile strength, fatigue limit, plastic deformation -- in a long thin part like that. Is it supposed to be a spring, a shim, a cantilever...? I would also go with the slip roller idea. In that case you'll want to dimension the arc length, not the linear length. A Proper Uppercut posted:Wish more engineers would realize this. When I was in school one of my professors told us about the first part he ever sent to the machine shop at his first job. It was a simple part, but he was so excited and he made his drawing look super clean and professional by padding out all the dimensions with zeroes! So when the machine shop got his print with the part length specified as 5.0000", they shrugged and cut it off long, then put it on the mill and brought it close, then put it on the surface grinder, and mic'd it the whole way to make sure the end was perfectly perpendicular, and that's how a piece of tubing offcut that could probably have just been done with a cold saw ended up costing $600 in 1983.
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Feb 17, 2024 17:15
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Sagebrush posted:What is the purpose of this part and how is it that four different metals are suitable for it with no changes to the geometry? All of those metals will have quite different behavior -- elasticity, tensile strength, fatigue limit, plastic deformation -- in a long thin part like that. Is it supposed to be a spring, a shim, a cantilever...? Part of a wallet actually, I'm prototyping some different assembly methods. Injection insert molding is the other option. NewFatMike posted:I haven’t seen this methodology before. Do you basically get someone’s part or drawings and say “doing it right and this week costs $X; if you have only 2 critical callouts it costs $X-Y, if you can receive it next month it costs $X-Z, if you can do both it costs $X-Y-Z”? Same part between multiple vendors, purchasing will look at multiple vendors and past history. If in the past you have 100% on time delivery, zero quality defects, then your price might get no modifier. The other shop in Asia might have terrible delivery and quality issues, so they'll get a multiplier to price. So I quote $3, and the customer will say "yes, yoopers parts really do cost us $3." While the low quality shop might have quoted $1.50, the "actual" cost is $5. So the purchaser gets a hard on at the $1.5, but once it goes through the review, they realize it's not a good deal for them. I still have customers who just yolo it for $0.01 per piece less.
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Feb 17, 2024 19:21
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Ohh gotcha that’s the opposite side of the equation I was thinking of. Also I was going to say that it sounds dumb as hell that it isn’t standard but I’ve interacted with purchasers before so
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Feb 17, 2024 20:02
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NewFatMike posted:Ohh gotcha that’s the opposite side of the equation I was thinking of. Also I was going to say that it sounds dumb as hell that it isn’t standard but I’ve interacted with purchasers before so We do it the other side too when someone wants a crazy surface finish, or tight diameter. Then it'll be quoted as normal or with tighter tolerance. Sometimes this rings a bell and someone backs off the tolerance. Other times it just is what it is, but we like to give options.
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Feb 17, 2024 20:09
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ryanrs posted:I bet it's faster to slap something together with 1/4" bar than mess around mitering square tube, finding longer bolts, etc. The flat bar is probably also lighter. Huh so I had my metal shop quote me the 1/4 x 1.5 flat bar and it was $16/10 ft (longest that will fit in my car) which is.... pretty dang reasonable. Probably $35 for the entire stand including tax. For some reason I thought 1/4" bar was going to be like $50/10'. And yeah my welds suck. Flux core is actually pretty good for thin wall tubing if you are paying attention and know what you're doing, which I barely do, but I'd be a lot more confident that the engine isn't going to crush my toddler if I just pump a ton of heat and wire into 1/4" and hit it with a hammer to test it Is mcmaster carr the go-to for casters or what? I bought some 300lb casters for another project there and they're barely satisfactory. Looks like I'll want 4 x 1000lb casters. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Feb 18, 2024 |
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Feb 18, 2024 01:33
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Hadlock posted:Is mcmaster carr the go-to for casters or what? I bought some 300lb casters for another project there and they're barely satisfactory. Looks like I'll want 4 x 1000lb casters. I'm too cheap to buy McMaster casters, so I buy them on ebay (new items, not used), and amazon. I used these $8 5" locking casters on my 200 lbs welding table. They were adequate for that, but not for 1,000 lbs. Maybe something like these $36 6" swivel casters? You can also search for dumpster casters. At least check out ebay to put the McMcaster prices in context.
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Feb 18, 2024 01:57
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Hadlock posted:Huh so I had my metal shop quote me the 1/4 x 1.5 flat bar and it was $16/10 ft (longest that will fit in my car) which is.... pretty dang reasonable. Probably $35 for the entire stand including tax. For some reason I thought 1/4" bar was going to be like $50/10'. And yeah my welds suck. Flux core is actually pretty good for thin wall tubing if you are paying attention and know what you're doing, which I barely do, but I'd be a lot more confident that the engine isn't going to crush my toddler if I just pump a ton of heat and wire into 1/4" and hit it with a hammer to test it If you have a metal supermarket around you, they'll cut it to length for you. I've done entire projects at work and not had to make a single cut, just by figuring out how long I need pieces X,Y,Z and call and have them do it. I don't know if its included in the price, or if they just cut for "free" but I've never seen a "cut fee" on any of the invoices I've gotten from them and I've been dealing with my local for almost 20 years.
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Feb 18, 2024 03:02
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Does anyone know what kind of steel wood auger bits are typically made of? I'm guessing some type of carbon or tool steel; I assume HSS would be too brittle and overkill for wood anyway. I'm trying to modify a 1" auger bit to accept a carbide spade drill insert. After successfully cutting the slot, drilling both mounting holes(breaking a cheap carbide bit on each when they caught while emerging on the far side), and tapping one of them, I inextricably broke a tap in the second hole(the last operation, naturally).  Anyway, I'm thinking I'll try annealing it before the next attempt, but it would be nice to know what kind of steel it is to better anneal it and have some idea how much I can bring down the hardness. I figure this is ideally a job for EDM, but I'm trying to keep it as cheap as possible.
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Feb 18, 2024 05:41
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Dare I ask why you don't just buy a spade drill body?
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Feb 18, 2024 05:49
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It's for measuring skating pond ice, in Canada, so it needs to be loooong, like 18" minimum, which from what I've found gets pretty pricey. Auger bits work, but their modest clearance angles don't allow for very aggressive cutting, which can make for very slow going when you're drilling through up to 30"+ of ice. They also dull fairly quickly. Wood spade bits chew through the ice like it's nothing, but without flutes to clear the chips they can build up, compress, and flash freeze your bit into the ice. Then you've got to waste time chipping it out, and putting a divot in your nice skating surface in the process. My initial testing suggests this should be the best of both worlds.
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Feb 18, 2024 06:08
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OK, drilling through ice is one situation where this might work well, ha ha. Goonspeed! FYI, rotary hammer bits are pretty cheap, like $35 for 1" x 21" long. But I don't think they have the aggressive cut and chip clearance you need.
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Feb 18, 2024 06:24
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That's another thought I had if this doesn't work, finding one with a single straight insert and grinding a new profile with a diamond wheel.
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Feb 18, 2024 06:31
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You might also try the concrete bits as-is, in a real rotary hammer (not a hammer drill). They chew through concrete pretty fast, and ice is much softer.
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Feb 18, 2024 06:40
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Now that you mention it I might give a smaller one we've got on hand a try. My suspicion has been that ice, being softer, won't fracture the right way for the bit to work, or the resulting chips and snow won't behave the same as concrete/masonry/stone dust and extract nicely, but without having tried it there's no way to be sure. There's also the issue of not having a cordless rotory hammer, but if I can demonstrate that it works well my foreman might be persuaded.
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Feb 18, 2024 06:53
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I'm pretty sure wooden drill bits are mostly HSS nowadays, just because that's so common a material.
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Feb 18, 2024 |
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Feb 18, 2024 08:46
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I didn't have to go 18 inches deep but I blasted through ice like it was nobody's business with a 1.5 inch spade bit on a hammer drill. e. like ice augers don't need carbide or anything on em.
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Feb 18, 2024 16:32
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My mill uses R8 collets, but I was thinking of getting some 5C collets with hex and square collet blocks and maybe an indexer down the line to do fluted shafts and knobs. I'm wondering if getting collets in increments of 16ths of an inch will be good enough. For example, if I am trying to hold a piece that is 17/64ths, would it fit in a 1/4" collet? If not, would it be too loose in a 5/16ths collet? My question is mostly academic as I'm just a hobbyist that turns and mills stuff for my own use, so I could most likely just turn whatever I plan to put in the collet to a multiple of 16ths and it would be just fine.
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Feb 18, 2024 17:38
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Skunkduster posted:My mill uses R8 collets, but I was thinking of getting some 5C collets with hex and square collet blocks and maybe an indexer down the line to do fluted shafts and knobs. I'm wondering if getting collets in increments of 16ths of an inch will be good enough. For example, if I am trying to hold a piece that is 17/64ths, would it fit in a 1/4" collet? If not, would it be too loose in a 5/16ths collet? In my experience anything bigger than the nominal size won't fit in that particular size collet. But you can go up to 1/64 smaller, maybe you can get away with 1/32 but I'm not positive. If I were just starting I'd just buy a basic set of common sizes and then add on something specific later if needed.
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Feb 18, 2024 17:55
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Skunkduster posted:My mill uses R8 collets, but I was thinking of getting some 5C collets with hex and square collet blocks and maybe an indexer down the line to do fluted shafts and knobs. I'm wondering if getting collets in increments of 16ths of an inch will be good enough. For example, if I am trying to hold a piece that is 17/64ths, would it fit in a 1/4" collet? If not, would it be too loose in a 5/16ths collet? Just keep a few soft collets around, then if you've got something that's really truly a weird size shank you can just drill the collet to what you need and have at it. For the index head think real hard about what you would need to do with it that a lathe chuck couldn't handle
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Feb 18, 2024 18:34
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CommonShore posted:I didn't have to go 18 inches deep but I blasted through ice like it was nobody's business with a 1.5 inch spade bit on a hammer drill. Yeah, we used spade bits one year after our auger bit took a swim by slipping out of the drill chuck just as we drilled through the ice. As I mentioned above they do a great job cutting through the ice, but have a tendency to freeze themselves into deeper holes. We use an ice auger as well for making holes to pump water. We have to get the blades sharpened about once a month, and that's drilling less than half as many holes as we do for ice checks. Dust in the ice and regular repeated exposure to water dulls steel bits noticeably in a couple weeks. I don't know if a carbide insert will last until I retire, but I'm hoping to get a winter or two out of it before it needs a touch-up regrind.
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Feb 18, 2024 20:54
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