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http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/dca6 I just did this same thing. This guide was super helpful as a best practice sort of guide. Also check your city/county to see if they have any stricter requirements, load ratings, etc.
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Aug 9, 2016 18:19
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Slugworth posted:New house has some door-less wall cabinets in the garage with some odd mortis cuts for what I assume used to be hinges. Anyone ever seen anything like this? I just happened to stumble across the answer to this... that slot is for a "double demountable hinge". If you check out the customer images posted in the reviews there, you'll see them installed in a cabinet with the same T slot in the frame. Zhentar fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Aug 9, 2016 |
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Aug 9, 2016 18:43
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Zhentar posted:I just happened to stumble across the answer to this... that slot is for a "double demountable hinge". If you check out the customer images posted in the reviews there, you'll see them installed in a cabinet with the same T slot in the frame. I think you got the image wrong, but I'm 100% in favor of a golden retriever puppy getting a bath anyhow.
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Aug 9, 2016 19:13
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Haha, oops. If copy and paste hadn't betrayed me, it would have linked to https://www.amazon.com/Amerock-BP8704G10-Double-Demountable-Overlay/dp/B000PD6YJ8
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Aug 9, 2016 19:59
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Roll out fiberglass or blown in cellulose? They seem to be within pretty close price range. Is one better than the other? Does one require more work? Will I have to abandon my attic storage? My attics are R9, my walls have little to no insulation. Main concern is the attics right now, I should be R38 for the region. Also what can I do with radiant barriers? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Aug 9, 2016 |
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Aug 9, 2016 22:42
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I've been needing to install bathroom exhaust fans for a while, and I've been trying to find a contractor to cut vents into my roof for less than $1000. Surprisingly difficult. A friend of a friend who runs a roofing outfit finally returned my call today and suggested that I not cut an exterior vent at all, but just run a pipe vertically from the fan high enough to clear the insulation, and just vent directly into the attic. Is this solid advice? I'm not sure I buy it. My attic has ridge vents, but no powered fans and this idea just sounds like a good way to get moody insulation.
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Aug 9, 2016 22:53
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Our shower door doesn't have the bottom seal/sweep (we recently moved in). I figured it'd be an easy part to find, but I'm having the damndest time finding the right size. Here's a picture of the slot the sweep would go in: The slot is 5/16" wide and I think I need the whole thing to be 1 1/4" tall. Any advice trying to find a sweep of this size, or should I just pull off the entire metal shebang and redo that? I'd really rather not do ~$50 of repairs when the seal's only a couple bucks.
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Aug 9, 2016 22:56
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FogHelmut posted:Roll out fiberglass or blown in cellulose? They seem to be within pretty close price range. I, too, am interested in the answer to this. I don't have the exact details (my wife has them in an email from our contractor), but the insulation in my sunroom roof is lacking. I think he said they used 2x6 joists for the vaulted ceiling, but they only used R9 rollin insulation. He said they would have needed blown-in insulation with such thin joists to meet R38, but it may have been hard to find somebody to do such a small blow-in job, so the skimped. Does that make sense at all? I have no idea if that is realistic or not, but judging by numerous other code violations it would not be surprising at all.
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Aug 9, 2016 23:15
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eddiewalker posted:Is this solid advice? I'm not sure I buy it. My attic has ridge vents, but no powered fans and this idea just sounds like a good way to get moody insulation. It's stupid advice and you are 100% correct about mold.
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Aug 9, 2016 23:15
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FogHelmut posted:Roll out fiberglass or blown in cellulose? They seem to be within pretty close price range. Blown in cellulose is so, so much better than fiberglass batts (which are lovely poo poo), but particularly so in attics. Cellulose has no seams, whereas batts will have numerous seams that let air (and heat) more easily bypass insulation. Cellulose can fill in nooks and crannies, while batts will have gaps around any obstruction unless you carefully cut the batts to the right shape. Blow in cellulose is denser than standard density fiberglass batts, and so has weaker convection currents, performing better in very cold weather at the same rated R-Value. Cellulose is fully opaque to infrared light, while fiberglass is not and will be partially penetrated by radiant heat on hot sunny days. Cellulose is loaded with fire retardants and can significantly slow the spread of fire compared to standard density fiberglass. If you don't have anything that is being cooled above the level of the attic floor insulation (e.g. no attic room, no HVAC system), then radiant barriers won't do anything of value; thick attic floor insulation already does everything you need. If you do, then a radiant barrier hung from the rafters can provide a decent reduction in peak cooling loads, and it is generally cost effective in warmer climates, but far less so than attic floor insulation. edit: for storage, with either approach, unless you have very thick joists you should just build a raised platform.
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Aug 9, 2016 23:55
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eddiewalker posted:I've been needing to install bathroom exhaust fans for a while, and I've been trying to find a contractor to cut vents into my roof for less than $1000. Surprisingly difficult. Yup! It's an awful idea and a great way to foster mold growth. For some reason people love to do this, the previous owners of my house had the bathroom vented this way. Thankfully, it's an easy fix, and you can absolutely cut a vent into your attic and do it yourself. I wouldn't vent out the roof since you would needed to mess around with flashing and stuff. I wouldn't vent it from under the eaves either. But you should be fine venting out the side of your home. I just used a 4" hole saw to cut out a hole in the side of my house, installed a vent cover, caulked it in, and connected flexible hose to it from the bathroom vent. Easy job, you just need a good cordless 18v drill and a 4" hole saw (hf bi metal saw kit works fine), not to mention ladder access to the exterior, and attic access to hook up the exhaust vent. If you don't have a bathroom vent already, that's also a fairly straightforward job depending on how comfortable you are running a circuit and switch for it (I'd recommend using 14-3 so you have the ability to separate out the fan and light to separate switches).
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Aug 10, 2016 00:07
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OSU_Matthew posted:I wouldn't vent out the roof since you would needed to mess around with flashing and stuff. I wouldn't vent it from under the eaves either. But you should be fine venting out the side of your home. I just used a 4" hole saw to cut out a hole in the side of my house, installed a vent cover, caulked it in, and connected flexible hose to it from the bathroom vent. This does of course assume that the bathroom in question has an exterior wall.  But agreed, this would be the easiest way to add venting, if it's an option.
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Aug 10, 2016 00:26
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I could vent to an outer wall, but it would take 30ft of tubing to both bathrooms. I can get to a soffit with 5-10ft and wouldn't have to cut into my brand new roof. That feels like my most attractive option, despite maybe having a "reverse drip loop."
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Aug 10, 2016 00:33
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Zhentar posted:Blown in cellulose is so, so much better than fiberglass batts (which are lovely poo poo), but particularly so in attics. Cellulose has no seams, whereas batts will have numerous seams that let air (and heat) more easily bypass insulation. Cellulose can fill in nooks and crannies, while batts will have gaps around any obstruction unless you carefully cut the batts to the right shape. Blow in cellulose is denser than standard density fiberglass batts, and so has weaker convection currents, performing better in very cold weather at the same rated R-Value. Cellulose is fully opaque to infrared light, while fiberglass is not and will be partially penetrated by radiant heat on hot sunny days. Cellulose is loaded with fire retardants and can significantly slow the spread of fire compared to standard density fiberglass. Is a raised platform going to be excessive weight? I have no idea how much weight there should be. It's a truss attic and my storage area is some OSB with a few boxes of decorations and other junk.
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Aug 10, 2016 01:52
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kid sinister posted:http://www.thistothat.com/ Thanks guys! I have 2 big rear end 36 inch clamps.  [Edit] tangentially related: I recently got a sliding miter saw. I'm new to that world. It's got a laser and it cuts true. Bevel cuts are really hard to judge where it is going to end up, relative to the laser line. Is that... Fairly normal for consumer-grade Miter saws? Feenix fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 10, 2016 |
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Aug 10, 2016 03:57
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eddiewalker posted:I could vent to an outer wall, but it would take 30ft of tubing to both bathrooms.
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Aug 10, 2016 04:20
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eddiewalker posted:I could vent to an outer wall, but it would take 30ft of tubing to both bathrooms. You really can't find anyone to cut the hole in your roof? I found someone in Ohio to do it for $100.
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Aug 10, 2016 04:35
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I meant cutting a vent outlet in the eaves of the roof, away from existing vents. A vent that a sealed vent tube would exit through. Although with ridge vents, it was my understanding that the soffit vents are outlets. The cheapest I've found to cut a roof hole is $300x2, even after approaching roofing crews already working on my street.
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Aug 10, 2016 04:46
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eddiewalker posted:Although with ridge vents, it was my understanding that the soffit vents are outlets.
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Aug 10, 2016 12:14
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Feenix posted:I recently got a sliding miter saw. I'm new to that world. It's got a laser and it cuts true. Bevel cuts are really hard to judge where it is going to end up, relative to the laser line. Is that... Fairly normal for consumer-grade Miter saws? I've never used a saw with a laser guide. I'd recommend you get used to lining up your cuts by bringing the sawblade to the piece while the saw isn't running; it's a much more reliable way to tell where the blade will cut.
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Aug 10, 2016 12:17
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OSU_Matthew posted:Awesome, thanks! I've never used epoxy before so I just wasn't sure if there was anything special I should watch out for or a particular kind I should use (since everything I can find seems to be a bit pricey). Caulk is a good idea, I'll try that out! One kit (two gallons) covered all our kitchen countertops. We were right around 45 sq feet.
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Aug 10, 2016 23:02
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Having some HVAC problems of course in the worst heatwave of the year. The furnace is about 5 years old and it's a Guardian GG9S130D20MP11A. Not sure the model of the a/c unit outside, but that's working fine. The indoor blower, however, will only stay running for about 15 seconds after startup and then will cycle off and on for 15-30 seconds at a time. It does the same thing if you put it on "FAN ON" mode at the thermostat. I tried running the system on HEAT, and everything appeared to function ok in that mode for about a minute or two. We had an HVAC tech come out this morning since I was out of town until about an hour ago, and he seemed confused by what was going on--typically, he said, the motor will either kick on or it won't, and the intermittent stuff is more likely when it's a faulty hi/lo sensor for the heat side and not on the A/C operation. His recommendation was to replace the blower motor, but since it's a beefy 1HP unit, the price including labor would be $1400. I've been trying to google up a storm since I've been home, but I'm hitting some dead ends on finding my exact scenario. Does anyone have any suggestions eta: is there anything wrong with replacing the motor with a generic Dayton one from Grainger? They carry 1HP, 120VAC, 4-speed motors in the same form factor for a fraction of the price ($240) plus I could go pick it up tomorrow. brugroffil fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Aug 11, 2016 |
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Aug 11, 2016 22:55
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Feenix posted:Thanks guys! Pretty much. Mitre saws aren't the most accurate things, especially sliding ones, as the slides can often have a lot of play. You might wanna check out the woodworking thread if you've been bitten by the sawdust bug.
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Aug 11, 2016 23:32
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brugroffil posted:Having some HVAC problems of course in the worst heatwave of the year. The furnace is about 5 years old and it's a Guardian GG9S130D20MP11A. Not sure the model of the a/c unit outside, but that's working fine. What did the diagnostic LEDs say?
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Aug 12, 2016 00:54
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I have a GE Profile fridge with an indoor ice maker/water dispenser. Every other week I end up having to clean the thing out because of ice build ups in the chute that the ice comes out and in the mechanism of the ice tray... this can't be normal can it? This is the first time I've ever had a fridge with one of these but I feel like something is wrong, but I have no idea what it would be. Any ideas?
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Aug 12, 2016 17:35
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If I want to install an air conditioner on a horizontal sliding window, what do I use to take up the rest of the vertical space? Is plexiglass or something good enough? Alternatively, is it possible to buy an AC for a 20-inch window and only install one side of the accordions? I can't quite find any units that fit exactly 20-inches. Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Aug 12, 2016 |
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Aug 12, 2016 20:45
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Pollyanna posted:
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Aug 12, 2016 23:40
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Plexiglass is fine if you want the light. Rigid foam insulation will keep a bit more heat out otherwise.
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Aug 12, 2016 23:54
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minivanmegafun posted:Yep, you sure can, the accordion is a separate part on most units. Sealing that side of the window will take a little creativity though isn't impossible. I was thinking of just lining the side of the window with the foam ACs come with. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-2311-Density/dp/B000052030/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AWJKP44W20CGSVAHEPJG although I don't know how it'd work out immediately. Is there something special I would need?
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Aug 13, 2016 00:35
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Steampunk Hitler posted:I have a GE Profile fridge with an indoor ice maker/water dispenser. Every other week I end up having to clean the thing out because of ice build ups in the chute that the ice comes out and in the mechanism of the ice tray... this can't be normal can it? This is the first time I've ever had a fridge with one of these but I feel like something is wrong, but I have no idea what it would be. Any ideas? Check the drip tube in the back. Make sure it's clear and not plugged up with gunk and is properly angled down so that it actually drains. Pollyanna posted:If I want to install an air conditioner on a horizontal sliding window, what do I use to take up the rest of the vertical space? Is plexiglass or something good enough? They actually make window ACs specifically designed for sliding windows, along with vertical accordions for converting a regular window AC to a sliding window. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Aug 13, 2016 |
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Aug 13, 2016 04:28
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kid sinister posted:They actually make window ACs specifically designed for horizontally opening windows. $$$$, but agreed it's the only right way I've seen to do it other than stand up units (spot coolers in my datacenter terminology). At this point it's usually a better idea to put in a mini split. Unless you're renting....then don't do that unless the property owner pays.
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Aug 13, 2016 04:37
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How hard is it to replace a piece of rotten siding? Can I get it cut at HD if it is just one small piece?
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Aug 13, 2016 19:09
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Bozart posted:How hard is it to replace a piece of rotten siding? Can I get it cut at HD if it is just one small piece? Nope, HD doesn't do precision cuts. They could probably get it within an inch or two though. What kind of siding? Is it siding or trim? Could you post pictures? It's easy work if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. Cut the caulk, and work on prying it off with successively larger pry bars. Unless you're like me and go to replace a tiny section of rotten trim only to discover the previous owner had puttied and painted over termite damage which necessitated further and further removal of the wall and windows, until I had ripped out all the windows, and a giant swath of transite siding and wall that all needed to be replaced 
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Aug 13, 2016 20:04
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OSU_Matthew posted:Nope, HD doesn't do precision cuts. They could probably get it within an inch or two though. Unless you're waiting in line behind three other people, in which case they will get very careful, precise cuts.
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Aug 13, 2016 20:10
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Zhentar posted:Unless you're waiting in line behind three other people, in which case they will get very careful, precise cuts. I'll be the person you take with you to stand behind you in line so you can get good cuts. You just have to buy me a snack and pay expenses.
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Aug 14, 2016 00:16
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I'll try here before creating a new thread: Have a Frigidaire FFRE1233S that seems to have "locked up" over night. None of the buttons respond and the temperature reads 90. When we first came down this morning we were able to turn it down to 70, but then it ticked itself back up to 90, and now even the temperature buttons do nothing. Getting desperate here. Frigidaire CS isn't open on Sunday, and neither are the local service places it seems. And its this years model I believe, so there really isn't anything on the internet other than the user manual, which is useless. I have tried keeping it unplugged for a while, just fyi. EDIT: It doesn't respond to the remote either, btw. Orgophlax fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Aug 14, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 15:38
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Orgophlax posted:I'll try here before creating a new thread: Temperature sensing remote control allows you to see, set and maintain room temperature from across the room Could the remote be the problem - bad temp sensor? Can you remove batteries from the remote or otherwise disable/remove it and see if anything changes?
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Aug 14, 2016 15:51
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Wandering Orange posted:Temperature sensing remote control allows you to see, set and maintain room temperature from across the room There were no batteries in the remote to begin with when this started. I put then on to see if it would work. Also, I figured out of I push the up and down temp controls at the same time all the other buttons respond. I was able to turn out down to 70,compressor came on, then 5 minutes later it beeped and rocked itself back up to 90. And I do mean ticked. It doesn't jump from 70 to 90. I counts up through all 20 numbers in between. EDIT: Seems to be the control panel. Was able to set it for fan only and it still beeped after a bit and buttons went not responding. Orgophlax fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Aug 14, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 16:02
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I don't have a solution but why does your fridge have a remote? E: nvm I just saw the make and didn't think about the fact that Frigidaire makes other things besides refrigerators. DR FRASIER KRANG fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Aug 14, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 16:49
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HEY NONG MAN posted:I don't have a solution but why does your fridge have a remote? I was confused about this as well, but I assume they're actually talking about an AC unit, hence the remote and the wildly-high (for a fridge) temperatures. Speaking of which, my guess would be that the thermometer in the AC unit is bad.
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Aug 14, 2016 16:52
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