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kastein posted:She got a problem with the rockauto pay-as-you-go auto loan program or something? I like it because it is usually cheaper, and always still mine even if I decide to not pay one month! Between them and Amazon Prime, at least it's damned cheap to keep this thing as close to perfect as it's ever going to be again. Royal - the part that fails isn't even the motor, it's the drat piece of plastic that holds the two cable ends to the window. One of them will flex enough to let go of the cable and bam, the window starts dropping.
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Oct 26, 2016 05:34
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Does your wife enjoy collecting magnets with cars on them? This is important. What IOC said, plus, sadly, manual XJ regulators seem to fail more often than the electric ones, and are in short supply at the junkyard. The only real failures of the electric system are the door harness where it bends and the stupid clips that hold the 96- harness plugs to the switches.
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Oct 26, 2016 12:37
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I have a 96 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2 the original radiator has decided that it was time to ascend to cooling heaven, any recommendations for replacements? It is pretty much a DD with about 270k on the clock. Havent had any problems with overheating or anything so I am guessing whatever the OE or equivalent would be good.
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Oct 27, 2016 07:19
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When I'm in doubt I've never been wronged by a NAPA part. I'm curious too about radiators too though since my XJ will probably need one in the near future.
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Oct 27, 2016 08:18
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I've literally never bought an upgrade radiator, I just run garbage-tier parts store / amazon no name brands.
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Oct 27, 2016 16:59
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The only reason I plan on buying a fully aluminum radiator next time, or at least some kind of upgraded radiator, is to not have a plastic tank that'll crack after a while.
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Oct 27, 2016 17:04
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Astonishing Wang posted:The only reason I plan on buying a fully aluminum radiator next time, or at least some kind of upgraded radiator, is to not have a plastic tank that'll crack after a while. What puts me off of that is that at least on the WJ, the full-aluminum options that are available are either $Texas, or poorly-made eBay stuff that doesn't really fit without some finagling. I'd rather get a cheaper one with plastic tanks that does fit directly.
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Oct 27, 2016 20:51
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I've had three weeks of excellent performance from a Flex-a-lite in the JK. It was a bitch to maneuver into place because the end tanks are larger than the OE plastic ones, and it's dual-core vs OE single. It probably would've been significantly easier if I'd removed the AT fluid cooler and AC condenser rather than leaving them connected and trying to attach them to the new radiator in-place. I picked flexalite over mishamoto because it seems like their quality dropped off over the past couple of years. A lot of people popping welds after only a few months. I wish I'd monitored coolant temps with the OE hardware when everything was working properly so I could compare, but with ambient temps in the 70s and low 80s my coolant temp has hovered between 205 and 210 consistently. The fan kicks in at 226, but I've only heard it once, after idling and basically trying to get it to heat up. It cooled down to 205 again surprisingly fast...probably under a minute. Today I had the AC recharged, so for the first time in about 2 years, I have ice cold AC and volcano hot heat. 
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Oct 27, 2016 21:44
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Spent like $75 on a remote start kit for my 2015 JKUR. 10 minute install and now I've got remote start in my Jeep, $75 for a $500+ option from the dealer!
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Oct 31, 2016 00:33
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mattfl posted:Spent like $75 on a remote start kit for my 2015 JKUR. 10 minute install and now I've got remote start in my Jeep, $75 for a $500+ option from the dealer! Link? I wouldn't mind doing that. How do you add the button the key fob?
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Oct 31, 2016 00:48
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TotalLossBrain posted:Link? I wouldn't mind doing that. You hit the lock button 3x to start the Jeep, then 3x to turn it off. You need this harness which makes everything plug and play https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006J393IC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And then this is the module that makes the remote start work, you tell them what year/model and they preprogram it for you, otherwise you need another $25 piece to program it yourself http://www.ebay.com/itm/111240679891?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The harness plugs into the ignition box, the wire originally plugged into the ignition box plugs into the Y split on the harness then the other end of the harness plugs into the module and that is literally it. Quick and easy, 3 screws to get to the ignition box and that's it.
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Oct 31, 2016 01:02
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First time buying a Jeep, looking for mostly daily driving/camping/beach poo poo and some trail running. Anything I should prioritize or would a cheapy loving Sport and do-it-myself attitude get it done? My buddy recommended going with a Rubicon to start with, but he's big on crawling at Moab, and he doesn't daily drive his.
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Oct 31, 2016 16:54
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If you're looking at JKs, mechanically the Sport and Sahara are basically identical (there are some options available, depending on what year). Sahara is basically the "luxury" model, with added creature comforts and trim options (painted fender flares, heated things, etc). The Rubicon has a stronger front axle, a lower-geared transfer case, electronic sway bar disconnect, and I think some different gear ratios. Those are the highlights. A JK Sport is about as capable as any previous Wrangler model ever. The Rubicon IS better, but for me it came down to two considerations: 1-am I going to be in a situation where I really need the added capability? (a: No, because I'm not that good of an off-road driver because I don't get to do it often enough, so I'll be at MY limit long before I reach the Jeep's limit), and 2-if I ever get to that point can I do the upgrade work myself at a reasonable cost vs the cost of buying it as a Rubicon (a: yes, I can do it myself, or I'll be able to when necessary). Since the price was basically 25k for a Sport or 40k+ for the Rubicon, it became a no-brainer in my situation.
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Oct 31, 2016 17:51
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That's pretty much exactly my thinking. Because as a daily driver primarily I don't want its mileage tanked in favor of poo poo I rarely would have to use. We were just attempting to compare and you know how vague dealerships are when it comes to information. I'm hesitant to get used because I don't want something some dumb crossfit vegan abused, but the cost difference is huge and I suppose if a Jeep is going to have issues it would have them anyway
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Oct 31, 2016 18:14
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Used prices are insanely stupid on JK's. I'd go with new for the warranty / peace of mind it ain't ragged out / better interest rate if you're financing, etc.
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Oct 31, 2016 18:35
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Thronde posted:That's pretty much exactly my thinking. Because as a daily driver primarily I don't want its mileage tanked in favor of poo poo I rarely would have to use. Don't kid yourself on mileage, it's poo poo whichever one you buy. I have a 2016 JKU (Sport S) with 3.73 axles and auto transmission. I can get 20 mpg on the highway and about 16-17 in town. It's not great, but I'll take it for having the car because it's a lot of fun to drive.
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Oct 31, 2016 18:51
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That's still better than my WJ gets (14) but that might be because I somehow end up doing 80-85 on the freeway in that drat thing.
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Oct 31, 2016 19:01
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Trying to build bridges with my new boss. He has a 2008 JK with the 3.8 and AT. He wants to mess with the engine because something about the 3.8 is lovely or leaky or whatever and he's considering rebuilding and stroking it or doing a V8 swap. What would you guys recommend?
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Oct 31, 2016 23:06
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LS or Hemi, absolutely.
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Oct 31, 2016 23:08
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DAT RAM posted:Used prices are insanely stupid on JK's. I'd go with new for the warranty / peace of mind it ain't ragged out / better interest rate if you're financing, etc. This is why I bought mine new. It was about 3k cheaper than the 1-year old JKs. TotalLossBrain posted:Don't kid yourself on mileage, it's poo poo whichever one you buy. I have a 2016 JKU (Sport S) with 3.73 axles and auto transmission. I can get 20 mpg on the highway and about 16-17 in town. I've got 3.21s, drive about 70 miles round trip for work (all highway), plus about a 1500 mile road trip every month, and I average 19-21 mpg. IOwnCalculus posted:LS or Hemi, absolutely. Yep. There are several conversion companies out there. And 2008 is pretty notorious for oil consumption, far more than the surrounding years. I have no idea why. Godholio fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 01:27
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Well, I actually got a CEL because the JK didn't warm up fast enough the other day. It was the morning commute, and probably about 45 degrees outside. That afternoon I looked up the code and figured out how to get a data chart in Torque. With the new Flexalite radiator, and ambient temps between 60 and 70, my highway commute holds coolant temp between 190 and 196. The last couple of miles of the commute where the speed limit is 25, it warmed up to 204. I think it prefers to run between 200-210 most of the time, from reading internet discussions. If I keep seeing this CEL I might need to actually put a windbreak screen or something over part of the radiator. But I think it's really going to shine in the Nevada summer.
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Nov 1, 2016 16:31
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My '73 Commando was slow to start and I was scared I had a charging issue till I found this. When I backed the negative side off, The entire pole came loose and I had to cut the copper bolt in two with a Dremel. Looks like it has been arcing against the fender for a long rear end time.
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Nov 2, 2016 01:19
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mattfl posted:You hit the lock button 3x to start the Jeep, then 3x to turn it off. Thanks, I ordered both of them today. Hopefully I'll even have them by the weekend.
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Nov 2, 2016 02:32
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What would cause bouncing or high idle on a '00 XJ, 4.0, auto? My Pee has had a really high idle for at least a year, and I can't think of what else I could do. There don't appear to be any vacuum leaks (but I'm going to smoke test again this weekend, for funsies), the TPS, MAP, and IAC have all been replaced. There are no significant engine mods (meaning: we upgraded the battery cables long before this happened, and nothing else except maintenance has been done), the high idle seems to occur at a stop in neutral or park, but does not occur while rolling in neutral (I haven't tried rolling in park but I don't think that would fix it), and the bouncing idle is a new symptom. Bouncing seems to mostly happen when cold, but has also occurred on occasion when warm.
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Nov 3, 2016 06:33
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I had to clean up the Commando a bit. She's going to be in the Veteran's day parade this year. e: Goddamnit I saw the tire foam pick up dirt about 5 seconds after I posted this 
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Nov 4, 2016 01:07
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Krakkles posted:What would cause bouncing or high idle on a '00 XJ, 4.0, auto? Seems to be one of those XJ problems that could be many things. I'd try removing/thoroughly cleaning the whole throttle body - my XJ is much older but the TB was insanely gunked up. Remove all the sensors and soak the bastard in gasoline or whatever overnight. Put in a new throttle body gasket while you're at it ($4 for a mopar on rockauto). Also, maybe pull your fuel rail and inspect/replace the injector O-rings? I like this kit.
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Nov 4, 2016 02:35
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Seems to be one of those XJ problems that could be many things. I'd try removing/thoroughly cleaning the whole throttle body - my XJ is much older but the TB was insanely gunked up. Remove all the sensors and soak the bastard in gasoline or whatever overnight. Put in a new throttle body gasket while you're at it ($4 for a mopar on rockauto). Also, maybe pull your fuel rail and inspect/replace the injector O-rings? I like this kit.
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Nov 4, 2016 03:43
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I replaced my farty and loud thrush muffler with a Dynomax Quietflow SS and it's so nice. My starter is louder than my engine now, and all I hear once it's running is my fan clutch  I can listen to podcasts on the freeway now, so that's cool.
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Nov 7, 2016 18:37
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mattfl posted:You hit the lock button 3x to start the Jeep, then 3x to turn it off. I finally received everything. Did you have to anything special for programming? i plugged the thing in, it turned from red to green but the remote start doesn't work. The only time I get lights on it is when I lock it three times (seven red LED flashes) Did you connect just the red and blue connectors? Directed's instruction are terrible. I tried to reset the module, but I need to plug a D2D harness in to do that. While I have that, I do not have anything to plug it into. I've been at this for an hour with no change. 
TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 04:12
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TotalLossBrain posted:I finally received everything. Did you have to anything special for programming? i plugged the thing in, it turned from red to green but the remote start doesn't work. The only time I get lights on it is when I lock it three times (seven red LED flashes) When you ordered you made sure to tell them what kind of vehicle you have right? They have to preprogram it. And all I did was plug in the one end of the harness into the ignition, plug what I removed from the ignition into the harness, and then yeah the red/blue connectors. Just know it won't remote start if the doors are open as well. Also I found a YouTube video of some random guy who did a walk through of the install, I'll see if I can find that again.
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Nov 8, 2016 12:29
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I had sent the seller of that module a clear email that I needed it programmed for a 2016 JKU. I'll find out what happened tomorrow when my KRLoader2 programmer gets here. Nice excuse for another single-use tool.
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Nov 8, 2016 16:00
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I've been looking around for a rear tire carrier for an XJ and they're all eleventy billion dollars. Guess I'll scour the junkyards for a factory one if I can find one.
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Nov 8, 2016 18:50
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DAT RAM posted:I've been looking around for a rear tire carrier for an XJ and they're all eleventy billion dollars. Guess I'll scour the junkyards for a factory one if I can find one. I'm on a few jeep/xj specific facebook groups and I see stock carriers getting parted out pretty regularly for $125 or so. The groups are otherwise terrible cesspools of stupidity and ignorance but they're good for cheap parts.
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Nov 8, 2016 19:16
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I'm on a few jeep/xj specific facebook groups and I see stock carriers getting parted out pretty regularly for $125 or so. Yup, Found my Detours Tailbone tire carrier on one for really cheap. Don't pay attention to the rest of the group pages as its usually bickering and political BS.
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Nov 8, 2016 21:00
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I didn't even think of looking on facebook. Thanks.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:31
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mattfl posted:When you ordered you made sure to tell them what kind of vehicle you have right? They have to preprogram it. The seller helped me out after I described the symptoms. It's running now. Guess I'll return the programmer when it gets here.
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Nov 9, 2016 05:45
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TotalLossBrain posted:The seller helped me out after I described the symptoms. It's running now. Guess I'll return the programmer when it gets here. Awesome. What did you have to do? One other question, when you remote start yours, and then start driving, does your security light on your dash continue to blink? Little red light in the bottom right of the dash.
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Nov 9, 2016 13:56
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I had to go through a quick procedure. Something like turn key to on, turn it back to off, push button on module, wait, push unlock, wait, push unlock three times. Seller said something about it being in the wrong mode. I don't think it blinks the security light but I didn't pay a whole lot of attention. After I got it working, I kept being glued to the TV for some odd reason.
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Nov 9, 2016 16:25
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mattfl posted:
So update on that since I obviously wasn't paying attention the last time: the security light doesn't blink, but it's solid red for the entire drive if it was remotely started. If it was started with the key in the ignition, then no light.
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Nov 11, 2016 20:03
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TotalLossBrain posted:So update on that since I obviously wasn't paying attention the last time: the security light doesn't blink, but it's solid red for the entire drive if it was remotely started. If it was started with the key in the ignition, then no light. Ok so similar behavior to mine. Good to know it wasn't something I missed.
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Nov 11, 2016 20:11
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