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Changed the oil. Discovered Godzilla must have installed the oil filter, I couldn't get the cap to budge. This has a cartridge filter with a plastic cap. All I managed to do was start to round off the cap.  I used to have the proper socket for it, but it got lost awhile back - a crescent wrench was always good enough for the old car. So I get to hit AutoZone for the correct socket again. At least it's only $8... and if I manage to break the cap in the process, well, it's also in stock at AutoZone.Finally broke the rusty headlight retaining pins free, and recovered the spark plug socket that got lost under a headlight a few days ago.  Also means I can finally put some decent headlight bulbs in; I'm pretty sure it has the originals.
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May 14, 2018 06:19
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Sometimes I wonder if taking the transducer from an ultrasonic cleaner and attaching it to my socket wrench would make something that always broke rusty or stuck dissimilar screws/caps/bolts free.
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May 14, 2018 06:22
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The funny thing is... the pins go through plastic. The only thing metal is the pins themselves. They were seized tight in the plastic. It took a lot of  to get them to even begin to rotate, and a lot of penetrating oil to get them to do more than that. Once I got them out I realized why they were stuck - they were rusty along the entire length, but had layers flaking off at the bottom.  I guess the layers coming off got them hung up.I'll chuck in the ones from the wrecked car tomorrow, they're in good shape. Don't ultrasonic cleaners also rely on being immersed in liquid to do their thing? I made the mistake of sticking my finger in one of those ultrasonic fountains, right above the fogger disc once, and loving ouch, that'll get your attention in a hurry.
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May 14, 2018 06:26
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This Old Tony had a hand at creating an ultrasonic knife from a cleaner's transducer. It didn't go 100% as planned, but was a good exercise in how soundwaves travel through materials and focusing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFeek0a8s7Q It's only a dream because I know that, to focus the ultrasonic vibrations where you want would require a horn designed specifically for each task, even each rotation of the nut/filter/what-have-you. But in my mind it's awesome.
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May 14, 2018 06:32
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They make devices that use vibration to help loosen stuck fasteners:
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May 14, 2018 06:34
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Those work great when there's, yanno, a bolt head or something.
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May 14, 2018 06:35
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Enourmo posted:They make devices that use vibration to help loosen stuck fasteners: Boy I love my air tools and compressor like, a whole lot.
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May 14, 2018 06:42
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Real talk, how good are the smaller pancake compressors at Lowe's and the like? The cheaper ones that don't pull a whole lot of power. New place has a garage, but only one outlet (plus an outlet for the door opener), and I have no idea if that circuit is shared with the entire building (all garages), or if each garage has its own breaker. I know CFM from them is laughable, and they'll take forever to recover, but I need to keep power draw lowish - looks like the pancakes tend to pull ~10 amps. Won't be running out and buying anything until I verify that I might at least have access to the breaker panel for the garage, or that the garage has its own circuit (or maybe shared with 1 other).
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May 14, 2018 06:52
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I've got a regular small domestic compressor and tank (120lpm, 40l tank), and using air tools like an impact gun is challenging. I wouldn't consider a small or cheaper one Even with mine - give a bolt a red hot go and then the pressure drops 20 psi you have to let some air out in order to get the compressor to cut in again because even that small pressure drop between cut out and cut in means not enough torque. You only get a useful short bust when the tank is up to 110 psi and with the cut in at 70psi it gets annoying. I mainly bought the compressor for painting, later on I replaced and dicked around with new switches and differential/cut in setting made it workable with air tools, but you need a large good tank and compressor set up for air tools to work well in general. I'm glad I had it because suspension rebuilds are not just possible without one - ball joints endless spin without an impact gun - and like I said I got it to work with some dicking around. If it wasn't for the fact that I paint with it I would spend the money on battery impact wrenchs and tools I think.
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May 14, 2018 12:05
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TWSS posted:
20 bucks
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May 14, 2018 12:55
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STR posted:Real talk, how good are the smaller pancake compressors at Lowe's and the like? Not great at impact guns, or at least my lovely old impact. Maybe a newer one wouldn't use such a massive amount of air. Ok for like an air wrench. Great for filling tires and ideal for nail guns. 
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May 14, 2018 13:15
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STR posted:Real talk, how good are the smaller pancake compressors at Lowe's and the like? The cheaper ones that don't pull a whole lot of power. New place has a garage, but only one outlet (plus an outlet for the door opener), and I have no idea if that circuit is shared with the entire building (all garages), or if each garage has its own breaker. Go to the tools thread and don't even gently caress with air. Just get a cordless lithium ion impact. I have a Ryobi one that's rated at 300ft-lbs (seems high but zips off lugs no problem) that is amazing and was cheap (~100ish).
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May 14, 2018 13:19
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Fo3 posted:I've got a knock on my suspension that seems to be most common /worse when steering around a corner and there's bumps. I've replaced shocks, swaybar links, tie rods etc already, so I was hoping for it to be the idler steering arm. So I replaced that today on my bmw e34 but it didn't help. the old arm seemed fine but I was hoping that was the cause since in a pre purchase inspection the idler arm was recommended to be replaced I dunno if this is causing your problem or not, but you don't want to tighten bushings with the suspension at full droop, otherwise you're putting a lot of strain on them during normal driving. I leave bolts loose enough the bushings can rotate on the bolts and the suspension is loose, then drive it up on ramps and do my final torque. That way the bushings aren't under any stress when the car is just sitting.
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May 14, 2018 13:48
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Larrymer posted:Go to the tools thread and don't even gently caress with air. Just get a cordless lithium ion impact. I have a Ryobi one that's rated at 300ft-lbs (seems high but zips off lugs no problem) that is amazing and was cheap (~100ish). TO clarify about air compressors, yeah, the best option now is a good electric because it's just overall way easier to use and service. I got a big ol' compressor because of media blasting and the cabinet I bought for it. If you've got it then air works quite well, especially when you pick up your neighbor's Snap-On air tools for super cheap because he's moved on to electric
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May 14, 2018 15:42
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chrisgt posted:I dunno if this is causing your problem or not, but you don't want to tighten bushings with the suspension at full droop, otherwise you're putting a lot of strain on them during normal driving. I leave bolts loose enough the bushings can rotate on the bolts and the suspension is loose, then drive it up on ramps and do my final torque. That way the bushings aren't under any stress when the car is just sitting. Yeah it's not that. I made ramps out of wood last year so I could get under to tighten everything with the car's weight on the wheels. It's definitely something wrong with my right strut or spring though.
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May 14, 2018 16:16
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Larrymer posted:Go to the tools thread and don't even gently caress with air. Just get a cordless lithium ion impact. I have a Ryobi one that's rated at 300ft-lbs (seems high but zips off lugs no problem) that is amazing and was cheap (~100ish). (Special thanks to Konrad for cluing me in on how to not be an idiot with my thin-walled socket.)
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May 14, 2018 16:49
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My attitude towards repairs also changed once I got a cordless impact wrench. It just makes life easier and the investment pays for itself on your first repair. Impact wrenches are a blessing on a clean car. They are a godsend on cars with rust/corrosion because the combo of torque and vibration do more to loosen rusty fasteners than just trying to torque them off by hand, where you end up snapping bolts. The first Ryobi wrench that I got sucked and I returned it. It was rated for 200 ft lbs but could never even break my 90ft lbs lug nuts that I torqued myself. Ryobi put out a newer model that was rated for 300 ft lbs, has LEDs on front, 3 speeds, and came with a large 4Ah battery. Its much more powerful and takes lug nuts off in a second. I think it was $125 with the battery. There are more powerful wrenches but they start to get really expensive once you get over the 300-400 ft lbs range.
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May 14, 2018 17:23
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STR posted:Started the Saturd this morning to get pictures to list it on Craigslist (... took it back down pretty quick after everyone glossed over "PARTS CAR" and "WILL NOT INCLUDE PLATES OR TAGS", and kept asking if the ac worked and when the registration ran out), and.... I guess my concerns about the plugs having rust on them was valid. It was belching quite a bit of sweet, sweet coolant-laced steam from the exhaust (and some blue smoke when it first fired). Don't post it in "Cars and Trucks", post it in "Auto Parts." I'm sure you'll still get morons, but they'll have to be dedicated morons. Or yeah, let PnP have it. Handen posted:What effect on handling does a high quality lower ball joint have over an economy/broken ball joint? I just took my '07 Grandpa Prix GT in to have the front driver side replaced (which I supplied with the most expensive Mevotech one I could get on Rockauto, still like 1/4 the price of anywhere else) and I've noticed the car handles SO MUCH BETTER in tight turns (i.e., the lovely one-lane traffic circles dotted all over the city) than it did before. Am I crazy or is that what good ball joints are capable of? A worn ball joint can make things... sloppy, but I bet a lot of the improvement is from a fresh alignment.
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May 14, 2018 17:53
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Verman posted:Ryobi put out a newer model that was rated for 300 ft lbs, has LEDs on front, 3 speeds, and came with a large 4Ah battery. Its much more powerful and takes lug nuts off in a second. I think it was $125 with the battery. There are more powerful wrenches but they start to get really expensive once you get over the 300-400 ft lbs range. So two recommendations for the 300 ft/lb Ryobi cordless, and it's pretty cheap. I think I'm sold.
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May 14, 2018 18:15
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STR posted:Real talk, how good are the smaller pancake compressors at Lowe's and the like? If you're limited to a pancake or other low capacity compressor you might be better off investing in a lithium ion powered set of tools. I picked up a Dewalt DCF899 lithium impact wrench about this time last year and I've yet to encounter a fastener it couldn't break that a pneumatic impact could. Plus once you have the battery and charger bare tools are dirt cheap by comparison. e: f/b. That's what I get for starting my reply before leaving for lunch and finishing it when I arrive.
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May 14, 2018 18:17
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STR posted:So two recommendations for the 300 ft/lb Ryobi cordless, and it's pretty cheap. I think I'm sold.  Edit: The exact one Geoj bought, hog ring (HB) model.
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May 14, 2018 18:20
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Geoj posted:If you're limited to a pancake or other low capacity compressor It's more the noise and power draw that would be an issue - my garage at the new place is a detached garage in an apartment complex. I know there's a duplex outlet on one wall, and another outlet on the ceiling for the door opener, but I have no idea if each garage has its own circuit, or if it's 1 or 2 circuits shared among all 8 garages in the row. The building is right up against an apartment building, hence the noise issue. It's a large garage for what it is; space isn't the issue. But yeah, from all the posts, it sounds like a li-ion powered impact is the way to go. Bonus is I'd be able to take it to pick n pull.
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May 14, 2018 18:30
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FWIW unless you have access to 220 service it's something of a moot point anyways. There aren't many 120v compressors with a SCFM rating high enough to run an impact more than intermittently. Some of the bigger consumer units would be better than a pancake compressor since they have a larger tank capacity, but you're still going to have to wait for the compressor to recover between uses of the tool. And yeah, the ability to toss your cordless tool in a bag and run out the door is great. I've used mine a few times when helping a friend or family with a flat tire.
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May 14, 2018 18:43
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Fifty Three posted:I ended up buying the 700ft/lb DeWalt because I like vaporizing bolt heads, and I love mine. There's no kill like overkill 
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May 14, 2018 18:48
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STR posted:So two recommendations for the 300 ft/lb Ryobi cordless, and it's pretty cheap. I think I'm sold. For a garage without electric, it's a much simpler solution. I just found out recently that you can get an inflator (for tires, etc) that uses the same battery system for like $20. I'm going to buy this and sell my compressor. No need for it now. And it trips the breaker half the time due to my lovely electric, so it's just not worth dealing with. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-Power-Inflator-Tool-Only-P737/206159256
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May 14, 2018 18:49
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Ryobi makes decent, cheapish kit. I swear by their cordless everything. I got literally every fluid changed at a dealership because while I don't trust the dealership, I trust the one I bought the FiST from way less. After 3k their "full synthetic" was literal sludge. And I'm not fuckin with all that on a Monday in wet 90° Virginia heat.
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May 14, 2018 18:59
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STR posted:So two recommendations for the 300 ft/lb Ryobi cordless, and it's pretty cheap. I think I'm sold. If you're already in the Ryobi system I would say go for it but make sure you have a 4Ah battery. If you're not tied to the Ryobi battery system I would consider the Rigid for slightly more $$ but it has more torque (450 ft lbs) or the Dewalt (700-1200 ft lbs) for $280 but has significantly more torque for just $100 more. Quite honestly I can't imagine needing more torque for normal auto uses. If I ever have issues with the Ryobi that can't get fixed .. I'm going with the Dewalt. I don't mind having one tool outside of my system if it is worth it. Keep in mind, Fathers day is right around the corner and Home Depot usually runs good deals on their Ryobi tools with special bundles etc. During the holidays, the good 3 speed impact wrench came with a 4Ah battery and charger for $100 which is $10 cheaper than the tool by itself. Also, buy a set of impact sockets for your impact wrench. They are different from shiny chrome vanadium hand sockets for a reason ... safety.
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May 14, 2018 19:01
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Larrymer posted:For a garage without electric, it's a much simpler solution. I just found out recently that you can get an inflator (for tires, etc) that uses the same battery system for like $20. I'm going to buy this and sell my compressor. No need for it now. And it trips the breaker half the time due to my lovely electric, so it's just not worth dealing with.
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May 14, 2018 19:16
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Home Depot currently has the Milwaukee mid-torque (600ft/lb nut busting, 450 ft/lb fastening) with a 2.0Ah battery and charger for $200, which is only $10 more than the bare tool. I picked one up about a month ago. It is a small battery, but I did a full tire swap (20 winter-corroded lugnuts) and it still showed 3/4 charge on the battery. Maybe not ideal for all-day projects, but for someone doing small tasks or can wait 30-45 minutes for the battery to charge back up it has been great. And you can always buy more/bigger batteries.
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May 14, 2018 19:38
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Those of you who use impacts to do tire changes- do you still loosen the lug nuts on the ground with a breaker bar or similar before zipping them off?
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May 14, 2018 19:40
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Fifty Three posted:Those of you who use impacts to do tire changes- do you still loosen the lug nuts on the ground with a breaker bar or similar before zipping them off? I generally don't need to, no.
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May 14, 2018 19:42
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For standard lugs, no. For spline drive "tuner" lugs, yeah.
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May 14, 2018 19:42
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no, never
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May 14, 2018 19:46
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Welp, add that to the list of poo poo I've been doing that I didn't need to.
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May 14, 2018 19:55
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Nope. Never.
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May 14, 2018 20:10
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I still did with a weakass impact wrench  . I also give them a hand tightening after I lower the vehicle, just in case. As well as checking them after 50 miles or so. Normally there's never any that need tightening but once, ONCE I had one that had loosened a teeny bit so I'm set in my ways forevermore.
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May 14, 2018 21:13
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No. Impact guns make rotating tires so much faster. Just make sure you thread them on/start them by hand. You could seriously gently caress some threads up if you don't.
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May 14, 2018 21:20
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Fifty Three posted:Dang, that's cool. Wish DeWalt made something like that for their 20V batteries. Ryobi has a bogger badder inflator, too: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-Dual-Function-Inflator-Deflator-Tool-Only-P731/203060297 Metal Geir Skogul posted:I still did with a weakass impact wrench I don't use a breaker bar loosening, but I definitely just snug them with the impact, then do final tightening with a breaker bar (no, I don't use a torque wrench. Gutenteit works.) Verman posted:No. Definitely do that. Nothing cross-threads better or faster than an impact wrench. edit: I'll need to keep an eye out for the Father's Day special on the Ryobi 1/2". Probably a lot less cumbersome, and can't be any worse than my HF Earthquake. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:30 on May 14, 2018 |
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May 14, 2018 21:27
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Electric is really convenient, I still like air better when I'm in my shop, though. The air tool is lighter, smaller, and has more power. It means using the thing for a long time, overhead, and in tight spaces is overall a better experience. I also don't agree with ease of service on electric tools. WTF? There's almost nothing to go wrong in an air tool, keep it oiled, maybe take it apart and clean out the schmoo every now and again. The things just work. Same with my compressor. I have an ancient Campbell Hausfeld I got at the dump, put $50 into and never had a problem with since. I even change the oil every few years. And yes, yes I do regularly drain the tank, I don't wanna die.
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May 14, 2018 22:13
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Verman posted:If you're already in the Ryobi system I would say go for it but make sure you have a 4Ah battery. If you're not tied to the Ryobi battery system I would consider the Rigid for slightly more $$ but it has more torque (450 ft lbs) or the Dewalt (700-1200 ft lbs) for $280 but has significantly more torque for just $100 more. Quite honestly I can't imagine needing more torque for normal auto uses. If I ever have issues with the Ryobi that can't get fixed .. I'm going with the Dewalt. I don't mind having one tool outside of my system if it is worth it. GF works for the other big box home improvement store, so I'm kinda stuck buying from them unless I want to piss her off. (also, employee discount...)The only power tool I own is a corded drill (Ryobi, I think), so I'm not married to any one brand (yet).
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May 14, 2018 22:19
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