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Delivery McGee posted:I'm going to fix it eventually, just asking how long I have to save up for a proper fix. I've been there and done that on all counts, this one I'm going to fix because I own it. I would tack on an umbrella liability policy onto your home/car insurance. Ours was basically free after discounts and car coverage reductions (500/500/500 -> 250/500/100 iirc at state farm) and it means when your friend drunkenly puts their foot through your floor and kills themselves on the toilet bowl you won't be bankrupt. Or was implying having a friend also a trigger?  kid sinister posted:At least H110Hawk gives a poo poo about the rest of humanity. Thems fightin words.
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Aug 21, 2016 15:59
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Hello quick question thread! I am trying to figure out what this part is called (if anything) to look at pre made options instead of just making it out of a bolt and nuts and washers.  Basically I'm going to make holes shaped like that in a plate and want to attached hangers on something else to hang on it vertically. But for the life of me I can't figure out what they would actually be called.
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Aug 22, 2016 15:34
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We are about to close on a house, and we'd like to replace the front door because it's ugly. I was thinking it's as simple as "remove old door from hinges, replace with new door" but it turns out it's a little more complicated than that. I'd really like to avoid putting in a brand new frame if possible - the current door and frame are fairly new, maybe 10 years old, and I'd like to avoid having more poo poo to tear up, put together, and paint. What am I getting myself in to if I want to just put a new door in an existing frame? Is that really stupid? I'm reading about mortising hinges right now, which looks like something I can do. Anything else I need to be aware of?
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Aug 22, 2016 17:36
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You should be able to have the door supplier cut out the mortises for you if you supply the spacing measurements. We did this exact thing and did not have to install a new door casing when we replaced our front door.
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Aug 22, 2016 17:43
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Sub Par posted:We are about to close on a house, and we'd like to replace the front door because it's ugly. I was thinking it's as simple as "remove old door from hinges, replace with new door" but it turns out it's a little more complicated than that. I'd really like to avoid putting in a brand new frame if possible - the current door and frame are fairly new, maybe 10 years old, and I'd like to avoid having more poo poo to tear up, put together, and paint. Mortising hinges is a pain in the rear end, as is hanging a door in an existing frame. It's completely doable, but sometimes it takes a little adjustment to get it to hang straight. Depending on carpeting/flooring type, you may have to trim the slab you buy to make it fit. You also have to worry about the knob lining up perfectly with the existing frame. It will also require precision of where you mortise in the hinges on the slab to line up to the existing frame. You can get jigs that help with the mortising and whatnot, but they're an added expense that may not be worthwhile for one door. I replaced all the interior doors this way on my last house, and I swore I would never do it again. It was ultimately cheaper but more time consuming that just buying prehung doors. With a prehung door, you remove the casing from one side, slide it in, shim it, and replace the casing. Although with an exterior door you may have siding work that needs to be done around if you go this route. At the end of the day, both options are going to be a pain in the rear end. As long as you don't have to mess around with siding too much, I would be inclined to go the prehung route. But there's no easy solution either way.
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Aug 22, 2016 17:50
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THE DOG HOUSE posted:Hello quick question thread! "Keyhole hangers".
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Aug 22, 2016 18:37
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quoting myself in here too because I dunno if the wiring thread is really apt: e; asked and answered in other thread! Gunshow Poophole fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 19:38
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Hey ya'll, got another question about deck beam/joist spans. I've found several span charts online, but they all seem to have slightly conflicting information. I called my city permitting office to ask what they use as a reference and I was told they use the National Design Specifications which doesn't have an explicit span chart. I want this deck to be as low to the ground as possible, so I want to use 2x6 beams and joints. The deck will be "L" shaped around the front corner of the house. Depending on how far the beams/joists can span, it may mean I need another 2-4 posts. If double (or triple) 2x6 beams can span 6' (with 1' cantilevered off each side) and joists can span 8', I think I'll be good. If that doesn't work, I may need to flip the orientation of joists/beams and add more posts to make it work.
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Aug 22, 2016 21:15
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Mr Executive posted:Hey ya'll, got another question about deck beam/joist spans. I've found several span charts online, but they all seem to have slightly conflicting information. I called my city permitting office to ask what they use as a reference and I was told they use the National Design Specifications which doesn't have an explicit span chart. Look up the building code for whatever state you live in. It should have span charts, though it may take some digging to find them.
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Aug 23, 2016 01:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Look up the building code for whatever state you live in. It should have span charts, though it may take some digging to find them. This is what I thought I was asking for. I live in Madison, WI. I've found the page with deck building information, and it lists some phone numbers you can call to get information/tips. So I called and talked to an inspector today, hoping he would just give me something I could google that would have a span chart. Instead he told me that they use Nation Design Specifications (which contains stress limits for wood, but not span charts) and told me to talk to a builder or a beam manufacturer to draw up a design. I don't need someone to design/build my deck. I just need to know if the inspector is going to make me tear out everything because I used 2x6 beams span 6 more inches than they should. I thought this would be a fairly straightforward question. Was the inspector just being a dick? I've poked around on the city's website, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
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Aug 23, 2016 02:04
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Mr Executive posted:This is what I thought I was asking for. I live in Madison, WI. I've found the page with deck building information, and it lists some phone numbers you can call to get information/tips. So I called and talked to an inspector today, hoping he would just give me something I could google that would have a span chart. Instead he told me that they use Nation Design Specifications (which contains stress limits for wood, but not span charts) and told me to talk to a builder or a beam manufacturer to draw up a design. I googled for "wisconsin building code for decks" and found this page, which links to a PDF with a span table. Read that table, then call up the inspector again and ask if you can use that to design your deck. This page may also be useful from a general-approach standpoint; it doesn't have hard numbers, but gives examples of how to lay out various aspects of the deck design.
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Aug 23, 2016 02:25
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Sub Par posted:We are about to close on a house, and we'd like to replace the front door because it's ugly. I was thinking it's as simple as "remove old door from hinges, replace with new door" but it turns out it's a little more complicated than that. I'd really like to avoid putting in a brand new frame if possible - the current door and frame are fairly new, maybe 10 years old, and I'd like to avoid having more poo poo to tear up, put together, and paint. Hanging doors that close well is more of an art form, that I personally would leave to a pro. However, replacing a door with a pre-hung one is actually pretty easy! Basically just peel off the interior trim, get a rough opening measurement (from stud to stud), and buy a pre hung door that fits the rough opening. Once you get the new door, you can replace it in an afternoon. Just peel off the exterior trim, pop off the old door, remove the frame, then shim up and nail/screw in the new door. You could probably reuse the old trim, but if it's not vinyl/pvc, I'd just go ahead and buy pvc trim and screw/caulk it into place. It's a lot easier than you'd think, trick is just to correctly measure the rough opening.
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Aug 23, 2016 03:13
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I've got some finished-birch-on-one-side plywood that I'll be using as a floor in a funky back room of a house. I love the look of the raw plywood but want to protect it with polyurethane or something similar. I tried clear polyurethane from Minway and Cabot and they make the wood darker than I'd like. Is there anything I can use that'll keep the wood close to its natural color while providing polyurethane-ish protection? Thanks.
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Aug 23, 2016 06:16
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We actually have a woodworking thread here in DIY. They would probably know best.
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Aug 23, 2016 07:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I googled for "wisconsin building code for decks" and found this page, which links to a PDF with a span table. Read that table, then call up the inspector again and ask if you can use that to design your deck. Thanks, that's really helpful. I spent most of my time digging around on the city of Madison's website rather than looking for the state code. Based on the tables, it looks like I should be fine. I should be able to use 8' joists (16" spacing) attached to beams that span 6' between posts with 1' of overhang on each side. I'll verify this with the inspector before I do anything, though. Once I get my plans drawn up, I'll post them here so you all can make fun of my ineptitude. Grover House 2: Exec Deck. While reading through the PDF you linked, I did notice one thing that may derail my plans. I was planning on making this a freestanding deck so that I didn't need to deal with siding/flashing/etc... This means I'm going to need posts about 1' away from the house. However, the PDF says that posts closer than 5' from the house wall need to bear on the same surface as the foundation. My house has a full basement. Does this mean I would need to dig down 10' (or however deep the foundation goes) to sink a post? That sounds fairly impossible for me. If I'm reading this correctly, it seems like I would be much better off to just mount it to the house, even if it means I'll probably pay someone to install the ledger board properly.
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Aug 23, 2016 14:14
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Also, don't forget about https://public.resource.org/ for most of the codebooks that apply to US states (NEC, IBC, UPC, etc.) https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code/safety.html (Well poo poo, looks like ATSM et al. are suing them, so the NEC isn't available there right now, but is on archive.org I think. Great that we're bound by laws we can't even see without paying.)
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Aug 23, 2016 14:45
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kid sinister posted:We actually have a woodworking thread here in DIY. They would probably know best. Good idea- thanks.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:03
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Mr Executive posted:While reading through the PDF you linked, I did notice one thing that may derail my plans. I was planning on making this a freestanding deck so that I didn't need to deal with siding/flashing/etc... This means I'm going to need posts about 1' away from the house. However, the PDF says that posts closer than 5' from the house wall need to bear on the same surface as the foundation. My house has a full basement. Does this mean I would need to dig down 10' (or however deep the foundation goes) to sink a post? That sounds fairly impossible for me. If I'm reading this correctly, it seems like I would be much better off to just mount it to the house, even if it means I'll probably pay someone to install the ledger board properly. I'm afraid I can't answer that question for you; it's way beyond my area of expertise. Ask the inspector. Assuming they're halfway decent at their job, what they really want out of life is for people to not gently caress up and make nightmare structures that have to be torn down. So they'd much rather you ask questions and get things sorted out before construction starts.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm afraid I can't answer that question for you; it's way beyond my area of expertise. Ask the inspector. Assuming they're halfway decent at their job, what they really want out of life is for people to not gently caress up and make nightmare structures that have to be torn down. So they'd much rather you ask questions and get things sorted out before construction starts. Yeah, I'll call him back up and run this by him. From a little googling, it looks like this is a fairly common problem (footing within 5' of house) that people run into when building decks. I already have a GC doing a ton of stuff inside, so maybe I can just tack this onto his project list. I could probably have him install the ledger and all that stuff, and I could do the rest. Or maybe I'll just have him do everything as he's been pretty cheap with most things. When I talked with the inspector, I also asked about how I should pour the footings. At first I thought I was going to need to pour 8"x48" tube piers (10-12 of them) and then mount my posts on top, above grade. Then when I realized how much cement that was going to be, I thought about sinking the posts within the concrete itself, which would reduce the amount of concrete needed by almost a third. Then the building inspector told me to just pour a 12" footing at the bottom of the 48" hole, set my post on top of the footing, and backfill with gravel/dirt. This would be significantly easier, but I'm worried about burying 3' of 4x4 in the ground. Assuming I use lumber treated for ground contact, I assume I would be ok as it looks like a fairly common technique.
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Aug 23, 2016 18:38
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I just overseeded my lawn with white clover, going to try to reduce or eliminate fertilizer usage. Should I use any sort of fertilizer this fall? I've read clover hates the high nitrogen stuff that I planned on fertilizing with.
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Aug 23, 2016 23:11
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In my experience clover grows like mad without adding anything to it. In years past it was the only thing still green in my lawn by this time of summer, but I think i unintentionally killed it this spring when using weed and feed trying to get rid of chickweed.
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Aug 24, 2016 00:50
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Sub Par posted:We are about to close on a house, and we'd like to replace the front door because it's ugly. I was thinking it's as simple as "remove old door from hinges, replace with new door" but it turns out it's a little more complicated than that. I'd really like to avoid putting in a brand new frame if possible - the current door and frame are fairly new, maybe 10 years old, and I'd like to avoid having more poo poo to tear up, put together, and paint. I have done this on three interior doors in my home, replacing hollow-core luans with solid panelled door slabs. The easiest way to do it & get everyhing to line up is to remove your existing door, preferably by yanking the hinge pins. If this is not possible, leave the hinges on. Then, lay it on top of your new slab with the top of the old door and the inside (hinge) edge lined up as index. Clamp them together. Trim the bottom and the latch side as needed. Using a speed square (or some type of square), mark off the hinge and latch locations. Next, using a drill & hole saw, cut out your latching mechanism. Then, mortise out your hinges & latch plate. Install the hardware & hang. The only issue I have ever had is not taking enough care when mortising out the hinge plate where the cut gets close to the (outside) plane of the door (the surface opposite the hinge); I've had the verrry thin piece of wood split off on me (I glued it back later). Your chisels must be sharp as hell or you will have a long day. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Aug 24, 2016 |
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Aug 24, 2016 04:04
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baquerd posted:I just overseeded my lawn with white clover, going to try to reduce or eliminate fertilizer usage. Should I use any sort of fertilizer this fall? I've read clover hates the high nitrogen stuff that I planned on fertilizing with. The great thing about clover is that it's nitrogen fixing - it's basically fertilizing the other types of grass around it for you. Perfect companion plant. It likes potassium and phosphate, and does it's best job of nitrogen fixing if your PH is at least 6.0 (so get your soil tested and see if you need to correct for that).
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Aug 24, 2016 15:53
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I just called back the inspector and I think I should be in the clear to start work on the deck. I asked about the span charts in the Wisconsin code PDF that TooMuchAbstration linked and he said Madison doesn't have anything that supercedes those guidelines. I also asked about footings closer than 5' from the house needing to bear at the same level of the foundation. He said I could ignore that because the house is 60 years old and apparently has decently compacted soil (part of the backyard is currently excavated for a new addition, and there's no sign of any stone/wood/etc... backfill).
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Aug 24, 2016 18:45
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I'm bracing my 2-story deck with 1/4" steel cable and some turnbuckles. I'm just making an X across a 20' span. To make it easier on myself, I'd like to have the turnbuckles connect directly to the eye bolts at the corners so I only need two long lengths of cable. Can I use a screwgate clip to link the eyebolt of the turnbuckle with the eyebolt at the corner? Should I just use hooks instead of eyebolts?
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Aug 25, 2016 00:23
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HEY NONG MAN posted:I'm bracing my 2-story deck with 1/4" steel cable and some turnbuckles. I'm just making an X across a 20' span. You want a jaw-eye turnbuckle. The "jaw" is a shackle that can easily mount to your eyebolt.
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Aug 25, 2016 17:05
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 Does anyone know how I can seal the edges around my window screen? I've got an adjustable-width window screen (it's two wood frames around metal screens. the frames slide toward/away from each other) that I use to keep pests out of my bathroom. I install it by 1) sliding down my bathroom window (brown section) 2) setting the screen on top of it (see cross-hatched section) 3) expanding the screen horizontally until it touches the sides of the window frame 4) pushing my window back up until it can't go any further due to the screen being in its way. The problem I'm having is that there is actually enough open space on all four sides (top, bottom, left, right) of my screen, so smaller bugs can still get in, and I haven't been able to find any simple product I can buy to fix this. This is an apartment, so permanent or damaging fixes are bad, but I will never remove this for as long as I live in this apartment (2-3 more years?), so I'm not completely constrained in the solutions I can try. My initial thought was to get strips of rubber used to seal sliding doors, but I couldn't figure out how I would cram them in tight enough to prevent bugs from getting. Another thought was to make my own magnetic window cover that stuck to the insides of the frame (see dotted lines around screen and window - those dotted lines represent their true bounds within the window frame) but then I would still need a way to seal the bottom of the screen where it touches the sliding window. Any ideas?
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Aug 26, 2016 00:58
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My garage has these suicide vents. I'm trying to seal up my garage for insulation purposes as my master bedroom is over the garage. Can I just stucco over this? I don't know anything about stucco other than its usually put over wire mesh. Looks like wire mesh to me. Obviously I would straighten it out first. Does it need some kind of backer board? I was going to fill it in with insulation from the other side. 
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Aug 26, 2016 01:48
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oliveoil posted:
This ? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-5-8-in-x-20-ft-Polyurethane-Caulk-Saver-C23H/202262332 Its in the section next to all of the other weather stripping.
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Aug 26, 2016 01:51
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Is calk saver different from just calking the gaps? Doesn't that permanently prevent the window from closing even after I move out?
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Aug 26, 2016 02:35
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That's foam backer rod. It's not adhesive at all. My suggestion would be rope caulk, which is a sort of putty that's designed to be removed seasonally.
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Aug 26, 2016 03:20
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I have the same needs for a different reason, and I ended up going with silicone caulk. You would have to remove it before you move out, which doesn't seem super easy, but I figure even an hour of work for a fix of 2–3 years isn't bad. The easy option is tape. I use blue painters' tape to deal with similar tiny gaps around my window AC, which is only in for summers.
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Aug 26, 2016 03:26
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i like nice words
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FogHelmut posted:My garage has these suicide vents. I'm trying to seal up my garage for insulation purposes as my master bedroom is over the garage. Those vents are there for a reason. If you seal them off, that crawlspace will becaome a horror show of moisture.
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Aug 26, 2016 05:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Those vents are there for a reason. If you seal them off, that crawlspace will becaome a horror show of moisture. This is a straight through vent into the garage. No crawl space. "Suicide vents" so you can leave your car running in the garage and presumably not die. Apparently they were common in the 60's and early 70's.
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Aug 26, 2016 06:00
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Anyone know what kinda connection this is? On a very old compressor tank:
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Aug 26, 2016 09:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:Anyone know what kinda connection this is? On a very old compressor tank: The connector at the very end is a male threaded coupler body, *probably* 1/4". You should be able to buy some coupler plugs from Home Depot for a buck or two each. It's hard to tell if that's Industrial or Automotive, so maybe buy one of each and try them out. e. They look like this: 
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Aug 26, 2016 15:27
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E: nevermind, more suited to a different thread.
DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Aug 26, 2016 |
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Aug 26, 2016 15:47
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Safety Dance posted:The connector at the very end is a male threaded coupler body, *probably* 1/4". You should be able to buy some coupler plugs from Home Depot for a buck or two each. It's hard to tell if that's Industrial or Automotive, so maybe buy one of each and try them out. I should have clarified, I mean the green thing in the foreground. I know what the other couplings are for.
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Aug 26, 2016 17:07
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His Divine Shadow posted:I should have clarified, I mean the green thing in the foreground. I know what the other couplings are for. Oh, yeah, no idea. Sorry.
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Aug 26, 2016 17:09
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His Divine Shadow posted:I should have clarified, I mean the green thing in the foreground. I know what the other couplings are for. That looks like some kind of regulator.
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Aug 27, 2016 04:52
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