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Godholio posted:^The lights or the actual brakes? I was looking for a set up that would make the actual brakes work but... Apparently it's 1000$+ so I'm going to go ahead and say gently caress it since I haven't had any problems to date, and that includes dragging the jeep over some "real" mountain passes. Thanks for the link though! Fwiw the 3.5L ecoboost in the truck gives no shits about pulling the jeep behind it. I've done several multi hundred miles each way trips now. Drops fuel economy from about 21 to 13.5 though, ha.
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Nov 17, 2016 15:54
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Hauled a 5x8 enclosed loaded with clothing straight up the hill from Phoenix to Flagstaff on I17. Really worked well, but definitely pushing the limits of what you can easily haul with a WJ at freeway speeds when dealing with long steep inclines like that. At one point pulling out of a rest stop I was at WOT for probably 30 seconds straight just to get to the top of second gear. The temperature gauge started climbing hard at the end, up to the next notch past 210 when I got out of it. Cooled right back down and continued to pull hard another hundred miles uphill so I highly doubt anything unusual happened other than I was just asking a hell of a lot out of the Jeep. drat glad I put an external transmission cooler on it. If I end up hauling a trailer like this long term, I'm definitely adding an external engine oil cooler too. Burned a full tank of gas so I'm betting it was definitely single digit mileage.
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Nov 20, 2016 02:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hauled a 5x8 enclosed loaded with clothing straight up the hill from Phoenix to Flagstaff on I17. Really worked well, but definitely pushing the limits of what you can easily haul with a WJ at freeway speeds when dealing with long steep inclines like that. I put a china cabinet on the roof of my Wj today and got a steady 14MPG  . But on the way home my wifes blowers started blowing cold. Because i need to mess with blend doors in the winter. 
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Nov 20, 2016 03:30
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Reworked my hard top hoist. It's basically an H-frame with an eye bolt, lifted by a hand-winch mounted on the wall (with the cable run through two pulleys to put the hook in position (the cable runs in a basically upside-down U shape from winch to H-frame). Two lifting straps were laid under the hard top, side-to-side, and hooked to H-frame with small ratchet straps. The problem with this design was stability...or complete lack thereof. Because of the single attachment point, the top would spin like a motherfucker, it would swing if the wind picked up at all, and it would readily tip in ANY direction. It's a miracle the loving thing didn't slide out and fall when I used this setup to remove it from the Jeep a few months ago. Modifications: the winch line now only passes through one pulley, so it runs along the wall up to the ceiling, through a pulley and terminates horizontally. Attached to the hook are two lengths of rope, which each run through a pulley on the ceiling and down to the H-frame, which now has two hooks instead of the single eye bolt. The lifting straps now run front-to-back directly under the roof itself, not under the sides (where they rest on the Jeep tub) like before. They sit between the C-pillar and the rear windshield hinges, which prevents them from sliding any meaningful amount, which means the top cannot slide out and fall (a major risk before). The straps attach directly to U-bolts in the H-frame. So the new strap arrangement eliminates the risk of the top falling out, and the dual-point attachment along the spine of the H-frame eliminates the spinning and tipping. The load balances itself side-to-side, and I made a good initial guess at where to put the hooks on the spine for the lifting ropes so it's balanced well front-to-back. The only thing I was a little leery about was how well my bowline knots would hold, but they worked well. Phew.
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Nov 20, 2016 03:39
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Raluek posted:I wish those had glass lenses. I'd worry about scratching up an expensive headlight like that. They're actually the cheaper / value headlight to go for. I mean, if you ignore the crappy Chinese knockoff versions that don't perform well and will set your Jeep on fire.
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Nov 20, 2016 11:18
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clam ache posted:I put a china cabinet on the roof of my Wj today and got a steady 14MPG Ran the numbers today and got 10.7. I'd have figured 9, tops, by the way that gauge was plummeting. Might have hit near 20 on the way back down, since I still have nearly half a tank left.
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Nov 20, 2016 19:31
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Winterized the 2000 XJ today. And by winterize, I mean fix known problems before I'm shoveling snow. Been chasing engine surging all year, cleaning and swapping throttle body, IAC, TPS, MAF, etc. After all confirmed to be working as good as an Autozone replacement, I did manage to find a vacuum leak and learn 3 of my plugs were gapped to >0.069" (spec is 0.035"). I also learned that the surging was caused by my current HVAC setting. The two defrost settings dry the incoming air by cycling on the A/C. Between the vacuum leak and the insane plug gaps, the surging was up to 250 RPM and quite annoying at idle/stoplights. It still does it, but minus the leak and poo poo plugs, the surge is under 50 RPMs and almost imperceptible. I miss distributors, but now that I've done a pile of coils, I guess they're ok. The plug on the back of the XJ coil pack can eat my weiner though.
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Nov 21, 2016 04:44
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That reminds me, I need to find out if I have some kind of glass coverage. The JK's windshield has had a 6" crack on the passenger side for about two years that decided to extend almost across the entire windshield right at eye level a few days ago. I expect this winter to give it new and interesting ways to gently caress with my field of vision, but I want the OE glass that has the little Jeep climbing rocks down in the corner.  Edit: Nope. gently caress. Godholio fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 17:01
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Godholio posted:That reminds me, I need to find out if I have some kind of glass coverage. The JK's windshield has had a 6" crack on the passenger side for about two years that decided to extend almost across the entire windshield right at eye level a few days ago. I expect this winter to give it new and interesting ways to gently caress with my field of vision, but I want the OE glass that has the little Jeep climbing rocks down in the corner. That's lovely, windshields in florida are covered under your regular car insurance policy and are free to replace.
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Nov 21, 2016 21:20
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mattfl posted:That's lovely, windshields in florida are covered under your regular car insurance policy and are free to replace. Similar here in WA. Edit: Never mind, WA doesn't get special windshield treatment. I just have it in my policy by choice I guess.
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Nov 21, 2016 22:00
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Safelite quotes $385 for a JK windshield with the artwork, $220 without. Ouch.
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Nov 21, 2016 22:22
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Godholio posted:Safelite quotes $385 for a JK windshield with the artwork, $220 without. Ouch. Oh good, the price went down. I got quote a year ago at $500 for the cool artwork JK windshield. Needless to say I still have a giant crack :/ Edit: nm, just got quoted $464 in Seattle Braincloud fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 01:30
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Guy here in Dallas was drunk trying to cross a bridge in the dark 2 Days later  and about a week later  Thats some impressive strip work for dangling on a bridge.
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Nov 22, 2016 19:00
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Did he do that, figuring it'd be cheaper to save everything but the frame, or did other people see free jeep parts and help themselves?
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Nov 22, 2016 19:03
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Apparently he abandoned it, reported it stolen and insurance covered it. Others saw free jeep parts and stripped it all. Looks like they even took the roll cage covers.
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Nov 22, 2016 21:08
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I guess most of it *was* stolen, just after the insurance claim.
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Nov 22, 2016 21:18
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That hard top must have been a bitch to carry outta there!
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Nov 22, 2016 21:20
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mattfl posted:That hard top must have been a bitch to carry outta there! They could have fashioned it into a raft and then floated it down the river.
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Nov 22, 2016 21:33
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 Jesus Christ.
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Nov 23, 2016 00:03
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This weekend, Sandbagger (the 87 YJ) goes into its jeep cave for the winter (garage) and the Winterforces go on my XJ.
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Nov 23, 2016 13:34
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Nice that someone scraped off the trail rated badge
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Nov 23, 2016 17:13
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DAT RAM posted:Nice that someone scraped off the trail rated badge I always hunt cool badges when I'm at the junkyard.
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Nov 23, 2016 18:24
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How much would you pay a reputable 4x4 shop to do a brake job on the rear drums on a 2013 Jeep Rubicon? My jeep was having some strange noise coming from the rear calipers that I thought may have been a bad axle bearing. The noise itself sounded exactly like the brake wear warning indicator noise that you get when your brake pads are low, but the noise was constant and not happening under breaking. However I found a shop to take a look at it and they told me that it was just the brake pads being low which somewhat jive with what I was expecting. The guy quoted me about 90 bucks plus parts to do the job. When I got the Jeep back I got a bill for about $290. I don't have any reason to distrust the shop as they've done good work for me in the past however something just doesn't feel right about being quoted $90 and then getting a bill for close to three hundred for the same work.
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Nov 24, 2016 02:09
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It probably breaks out the part costs, do you see $200 in parts? For rear discs (what the 2013 JK has) at a shop $200 in parts sounds about right. They probably put in new rotors and pads which would be about $200 in parts. If it's just new pads then $200 is kinda high but not too insane. The labor cost ($90) doesn't sound crazy either--it was probably like a 0.5-1 hour job for them.
mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Nov 24, 2016 |
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Nov 24, 2016 02:51
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McDeth posted:How much would you pay a reputable 4x4 shop to do a brake job on the rear drums on a 2013 Jeep Rubicon? My Jeep is 25 years older so I'm not sure, but I'm pretty sure the rears on yours are disc not drum fyi. $90 is probably about right for a specialist 4x4 shop rate. A set of rear MOPAR pads on Rockauto [MOPAR 68003776AA] is $86. Rotors x2 [MOPAR 52060147AA] assuming they were beyond resurfacing (for mechanical or liability reasons) or just ++ upsell at $74/ea. That puts you ballpark at $324 if they replaced all those things with OEM. "plus parts" is the tricky part (heh) of your question. The above prices could be a lot lower with aftermarket stuff, or maybe they just replaced the pads and added in a brake fluid flush which while probably not necessary, most people won't argue with. This is why it's key to get a printed estimate when you get your quote, including exactly which parts they will be replacing (assuming it's a simple thing like brakes and not an engine rebuild). I would hope they gave you an itemized receipt when you paid, look at it and see how many parts were replaced.
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Nov 24, 2016 02:51
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I would expect that for vehicles where rotors are relatively inexpensive and easy to buy and swap, even shops probably prefer to just put new rotors on instead of cutting the old ones on a lathe.
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Nov 24, 2016 15:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would expect that for vehicles where rotors are relatively inexpensive and easy to buy and swap, even shops probably prefer to just put new rotors on instead of cutting the old ones on a lathe. For someone who works in a shop that's sees lots of cars it is. I also work deep in the rustbelt(chicago/ohare) and rust can do some fucky things to rotors where cutting them is impossible due to rust build up. Or the customers are like 90% of other people and brake like assholes and heat mark the rotors and good luck cutting those out. Edit: Thanks to my WJ's windshield leaking my steering wheel is acting fucky. First the horn stops working now my right turn signal randomly stays illuminated but doesn't flash. A quick activation of either turn signal will shut it off. And luckily my steering wheel has also developed some extra play so it's no longer straight as it was. Not like I need to save money this time of year jeep. clam ache fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Nov 24, 2016 |
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Nov 24, 2016 18:51
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The blinker is probably just a lovely solder joint on the flasher module. Mine does that once in a while but only indicating left. Can pop it apart and reflow it.
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Nov 25, 2016 16:30
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Is there a jk grille overlay or replacement that gives it that snubnosed look the tj has?
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Dec 1, 2016 02:42
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Parade pic. 35 Wranglers and my Commando  
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Dec 2, 2016 21:23
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Farking Bastage posted:Parade pic. 35 Wranglers and my Commando Leading the way, as it should be. That thing is so goddamn cool Bit of a pic dump incoming - been working on fixing up the interior on the MJ. Got the guy who welded my bumper up to install some new floor pans, then I POR15'd the top and bottom. Found a guy locally who was looking for a bench seat for his truck, did an even trade for his buckets and center console. Replaced the headliner, which was just a piece of fabric held in place by about 200 staples, also coated the backing piece with some fiberglass resin so it doesn't keep falling apart. Replaced the carpet, hosed up on a couple cuts but still came out pretty nice. Replaced some of the old black trim with grey stuff I got at a JY, for the pieces I couldn't fine I just sprayed em with some engine primer, close enough for now. Before:   After:   Oh and because I'm a huge dork 
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Dec 3, 2016 23:14
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JFYI guys, RockAuto has stant and acdelco 195 degree 4.0L thermostats for under $2 right now and thermostat housings for under $7. I didn't even need a new housing and still bought one as a spare, because at that price it's worth it to not have to scramble and run to the parts store to order one for tomorrow when I break an ear off. Can't wait to have my MJ running at 210 instead of 120 to 170 depending on temperature and speed of travel.
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Dec 6, 2016 17:53
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Leading the way, as it should be. That thing is so goddamn cool The buckets look great and I love the license plate!
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Dec 6, 2016 18:04
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kastein posted:JFYI guys, RockAuto has stant and acdelco 195 degree 4.0L thermostats for under $2 right now and thermostat housings for under $7. I didn't even need a new housing and still bought one as a spare, because at that price it's worth it to not have to scramble and run to the parts store to order one for tomorrow when I break an ear off. Can't wait to have my MJ running at 210 instead of 120 to 170 depending on temperature and speed of travel. I need to do this. The wrangler has been running very cool lately.
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Dec 6, 2016 18:07
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kastein posted:JFYI guys, RockAuto has stant and acdelco 195 degree 4.0L thermostats for under $2 right now and thermostat housings for under $7. I didn't even need a new housing and still bought one as a spare, because at that price it's worth it to not have to scramble and run to the parts store to order one for tomorrow when I break an ear off. Can't wait to have my MJ running at 210 instead of 120 to 170 depending on temperature and speed of travel. Didn't someone recently post that only the Mopar thermostats maintained 195 in the 4.0 in cold weather? I have issues with cold running too, but I'm not loving another thermostat unless I'm 95% confident that it will work. Until then, I'll just stick cardboard between the A/C condenser and the radiator.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:03
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I dunno. IMO, there's a crazy amount of gearhead superstition about sensor and thermostat brand and temperature rating. I've quite literally never had any problems with anything including Duralast "junk" sensors. Stant and ACDelco are both excellent brands, and ACDelco builds OEM parts for GM, so I'll trust them. That being said, I thought cars always ran a little cooler (like 180 to 190 degrees) in a cold winter. Do Mopar thermostats actually prevent this? I've got no info either way, so I'm curious.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:50
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My 4.0 runs between 190 and 210 with the original thermostat and its about 20 degrees outside nowadays
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Dec 6, 2016 19:59
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kastein posted:That being said, I thought cars always ran a little cooler (like 180 to 190 degrees) in a cold winter. Do Mopar thermostats actually prevent this? I've got no info either way, so I'm curious. My Jeep seems to be the only vehicle I've ever had that has such a significant swing in running temperatures between hot and cold weather. When it's cold (even by AZ terms), I can drive a solid 30 minutes at highway speed and it will stay away from the 210 mark on the (bullshit) gauge.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:21
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kastein posted:I dunno. IMO, there's a crazy amount of gearhead superstition about sensor and thermostat brand and temperature rating. I've quite literally never had any problems with anything including Duralast "junk" sensors. Stant and ACDelco are both excellent brands, and ACDelco builds OEM parts for GM, so I'll trust them. It has been in the forties for a bit here already, and coolant temperature according to the ECU via Torque was in the 170s at the warmest. I had similar temperatures with a thermostat that I tested and wasn't stuck open when I disposed of it, 195F rating. Fortunately, I live in the land of no snow, so it just means that not having heat is only a mild inconvenience that I can counter with a coat, and spending a bit more on gas. Something is definitely not right, though. Temperatures are fine in the summer, coolant only slightly hotter than 195F when it get over 100F outside.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:46
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I need a "cowl panel" for my '99 Cherokee, the only places I found them are RockAuto and Quadratec but they're only for right hand drive versions for whatever reason. I guess the wiper arm holes wouldn't match. I've had no luck with junkyards, anyone in PA got a spare? Or know a website to buy such a thing for a US jeep?
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Dec 7, 2016 00:40
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