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hark posted:My P1S should be arriving on Thursday or Friday, so should I try to update it and then calibrate on first use? This is my first bambu device It will force calibration to run when you set it up, it’s a good idea to run it again after updating it.
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Jan 2, 2024 20:47
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hark posted:My P1S should be arriving on Thursday or Friday, so should I try to update it and then calibrate on first use? This is my first bambu device Yup. When I ran the auto-calibrate through the small LCD it does the noise calibration at the end of the calibration process. So just following the setup instructions should get you all the new stuff after firmware update.
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Jan 2, 2024 21:47
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Welp, prints awesome, just the software is a dumpster fire.  15hr ish print. I ran it slow since this isn't one of the high speed filaments.
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Jan 2, 2024 23:22
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Upon a hair of re-leveling and cleaning the bed (again) things are bringing and sticking like normal. It seems like I just can’t print at night for some reason. I wonder if the hvac is messing with it somehow. Also Octoprint is beyond awesome and it’s a blast to be able to just toss stuff on there from my slicer.
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Jan 2, 2024 23:35
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the newer high speed filaments still have issues with high temps that older PLA has right? Ive skipped over to PLA+ for general use because I can leave it in the sun or in a hot car and not have to worry about it warping. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 00:04
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Whoa, the new P series firmware also finally allows being able to look at the SD card remotely! A pet peeve I've had since Day 1 of owning the P1S!
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Jan 3, 2024 01:28
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8-bit Miniboss posted:Whoa, the new P series firmware also finally allows being able to look at the SD card remotely! A pet peeve I've had since Day 1 of owning the P1S! Yeah, that and adding Skip Object to the P1 series last update are huge.
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Jan 3, 2024 01:54
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mrbass21 posted:New Bambu P series firmware released today with the noise reduction. I installed this on my P1P and ran some test prints, and the motors are SO much quieter now. The part fan still sounds like a jet engine, of course. I'd love a quieter fan, but I guess by nature they have to run at super-high RPM?
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Jan 3, 2024 02:31
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The P1S also finally has the ability to reset the AMS ID numbers. (Previously only the X1 devices could do this, meaning if you got stuck with a stack of AMSes on a P1S in an order like 2->4->3->1, you had to physically rearrange them to get them numbered in order properly) Edit: btw, has anyone added an LED strip to their P1S? I saw that several folks on MakerWorld have created various risers that sit between the printer and the glass top for housing the LED strip. (some with venting/repositioning if you normally lift the lid for PLA) But, the recent official kit doesn't have much in the way of clear pictures or instructions and it almost looks like they taped the LED strip directly to the glass lid? https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/6500k-white-led-light-strip 
Snackmar fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 03:00
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dumb q that i could probably just try: would a tiny dish printed out of PLA be water tight? i just want a tiny little bowl for holding water to do gunpla decals and i cannot be assed to go to the store. https://www.printables.com/model/457159-water-dish-for-reptiles/files was just gonna scale this down. I'm betting it'll be good enough, but why not post about it while it prints?
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Jan 3, 2024 17:46
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Yah you should be fine.
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Jan 3, 2024 17:55
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Deviant posted:why not post about it while it prints?  Yes, PLA should hold water. When I very briefly flirted with trying to paint things, I printed a paint pot to hold the acrylic. Incidentally, I have a lot of unused acrylic paint lying around, if anybody wants some free (probably lovely) acrylics.
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Jan 3, 2024 17:57
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cruft posted:
What killed it for you? This was where I was going. No art ability, but wanted to learn to paint on 3D prints.
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Jan 3, 2024 17:59
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mrbass21 posted:What killed it for you? This was where I was going. No art ability, but wanted to learn to paint on 3D prints. I couldn't make the paint stick. I read up and it looks like I needed to spray paint the thing first, and that's when I decided it was more trouble than it was worth. The mk4 made mid-print filament changes pretty easy, and so far I haven't really needed anything more sophisticated than that. Related: here's my latest project. I repurposed a $25 toy drum set, and 3D printed the guitars. I also did like four 12-hour days tweaking the microcontroller code so I could get low-latency debounced switch input on an 8MHz 8-bit CPU. I could probably turn around and sell this for over $500, but I just wanted to be able to play LEGO rock band, not deal with customers. Mission accomplished.  It doesn't really show up well in the photo, but I used a modifier on the black guitar to remove the bottom layer, and used an infill pattern to make it so you see different parts of the red layer depending on the angle you're holding the thing. It's a really cool effect, and I didn't have to paint anything.
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Jan 3, 2024 18:21
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Hey that looks great. I saw your posts about the debouncing in the Arduino thread. This is way cooler than what I was imagining.
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Jan 3, 2024 19:11
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Deviant posted:dumb q that i could probably just try: For the future, you can improve watertightness by increasing the number of perimeters and solid layers. If you want to be really sure, you can also bump up the extrusion multiplier a couple of percent to overlap the traces more. This will result in a somewhat worse finish but that may not be as important as the performance.
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Jan 3, 2024 19:55
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Sagebrush posted:For the future, you can improve watertightness by increasing the number of perimeters and solid layers. If you want to be really sure, you can also bump up the extrusion multiplier a couple of percent to overlap the traces more. This will result in a somewhat worse finish but that may not be as important as the performance. walls and layers was exactly what i did and i figured it'd be fine. so far it is.
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Jan 3, 2024 20:04
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cruft posted:
It does. I made some pots and saucers for my plants and they hold water just fine.
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Jan 3, 2024 21:57
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Accidentally posted this in the 3d tabletop thread instead of here... The last several days the nozzle on my P1P has been getting (for lack of a better term) "dingleberries" of one or two short filament bits stuck to it after printing. The nozzle-cleaning routine at the beginning of the next print doesn't always completely remove it, and in a couple of cases it has dragged across an in-progress model and made a small gouge, and in one instance completely dislodged the model. What's the best way to address this? Or does it just happen sometimes? The type/brand of filament doesn't seem to matter -- it's happened with Prusament PLA, IIIDmax PLA+, and Overture Silk PLA. Despite the minor issues, I'm almost done upgrading the components in my copy of Ark Nova. I redesigned the gray kiosk to print in one piece (and have a splash of color), which is the first modeling I've done beyond "put some text on a thing". 
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Jan 3, 2024 23:22
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Never even occurred to me that I could print both parts at once.  The top of the helmet is garbage but that's every helmet print ever done on a fdm printer. I hate the software, and the phone app sucks balls, but I gotta admit, it does the printing part very well. 
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Jan 4, 2024 02:37
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I think I'm ready to take the plunge into the deep end and start modeling out my own stuff. What's the general temp around here on the assorted CAD-like options available for the Mac? I've pretty familiar with Blender so I'm not starting fresh, but I'm also familiar enough with Blender to know that I'd likely be better served with a more purpose build solution than doing things there even though the same result can be accomplished. I suppose the same could be said about Blender and doing my taxes at this point though. Onshape seems promising, though I don't really like the fact that it's a web app.
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Jan 4, 2024 03:40
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Use onshape as training wheels to get the basics of parametric modeling down, and then decide when or if you want to move up to grownup software like solidworks or something imo
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Jan 4, 2024 03:41
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Javid posted:Use onshape as training wheels to get the basics of parametric modeling down, and then decide when or if you want to move up to grownup software like solidworks or something imo When you feel like you've mastered onshape, swap over to solidworks so you can pay a lot more money for the same thing, but it looks like poo poo and crashes all the time!
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Jan 4, 2024 03:53
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Warbird posted:I think I'm ready to take the plunge into the deep end and start modeling out my own stuff. What's the general temp around here on the assorted CAD-like options available for the Mac? I've pretty familiar with Blender so I'm not starting fresh, but I'm also familiar enough with Blender to know that I'd likely be better served with a more purpose build solution than doing things there even though the same result can be accomplished. I suppose the same could be said about Blender and doing my taxes at this point though. Onshape is so loving good, truly. I couldn’t recommend a better place to start on learning CAD because their free elearning course is great. It’s totally translatable if you end up going with Fusion or the SOLIDWORKS Makers Offer. Being on a Mac, you CAD options are pretty much limited to those 3, and the SOLIDWORKS Offer using SOLIDWORKS branded online design applications (which are actually based on CATIA). If you can get SOLIDWORKS running on Parallels, then more power to you! We’ve got a CAD thread that’s very good, if you want more info I’ll grab a link E: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532&perpage=40&pagenumber=1&noseen=1
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Jan 4, 2024 04:02
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Splode posted:When you feel like you've mastered onshape, swap over to solidworks so you can pay a lot more money for the same thing, but it looks like poo poo and crashes all the time! It's important to push through the initial "wah complex interface" shock and learn not to crash the thing with impossible geometry, and you'll start to understand why it has all those extra buttons and menus you don't know what to do with yet
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Jan 4, 2024 04:29
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I'll mark that down to take a look through later, thanks!Javid posted:It's important to push through the initial "wah complex interface" shock and learn not to crash the thing with impossible geometry, and you'll start to understand why it has all those extra buttons and menus you don't know what to do with yet My dude I played Dorf Fort ASCII style and enjoyed the interface. I used blender before they reworked things to be slightly less for insane people. I'm not quite deranged enough to play Auora but I appreciate what they're going for. Bad Interfaces don't scare me. Warbird fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 04:30
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Warbird posted:I'll mark that down to take a look through later, thanks! Again, for starting Onshape is great. It’ll even do most things most engineers will ever need. SOLIDWORKS is an upgrade, Fusion 360 a sidegrade unless you need CAM. If you’re more interested in subdivision surface modeling, similar to sculpting in blender, skip straight to the SOLIDWORKS Makers Offer. If you do need CAM, Fusion is the only one that has that on macOS.
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Jan 4, 2024 04:39
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Rhino rhino rhino rhino rhino rhino 🦏
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Jan 4, 2024 05:13
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Sagebrush posted:Rhino rhino rhino rhino rhino rhino 🦏 Okay he is technically correct but Rhino is to CAD as Tarkus is to rock music 
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Jan 4, 2024 05:24
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Warbird posted:I'll mark that down to take a look through later, thanks! If bad interfaces really don’t scare you, FreeCAD is an option. (Probably don’t make FreeCAD your first CAD package. It’s got some really bizarre problems that are much better addressed in commercial options for the moment. But it is pretty capable.)
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Jan 4, 2024 05:40
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Javid posted:It's important to push through the initial "wah complex interface" shock and learn not to crash the thing with impossible geometry, and you'll start to understand why it has all those extra buttons and menus you don't know what to do with yet Spare me the condescension, I've used both. Solidworks does have some advanced features that onshape doesn't, but it also crashes regularly for reasons other than user error. I wouldn't want to design a car in onshape but I'd certainly prefer it for designing a teapot.
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Jan 4, 2024 06:21
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Has there been any significant advancement in resin machines since the Mono X? Mine is starting to run into use/wear issues and I'm wondering if it's upgrade time rather than repair time. Not sure what I'd get as an advanced user in 2024 though. Don't want to go smaller build-plate wise, as my primary use case is cosplay props, not miniatures. Looking at the mono m5s and the phrozen mighty 8k. M3 premium? M3 max is fun but looks needlessly huge? Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 18:55
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Deviant posted:Has there been any significant advancement in resin machines since the Mono X? Besides the 8k resolution, I think quality of life additions like heated vat, auto refilling resin are the big advances.
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Jan 4, 2024 19:16
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I believe some of the newer ones have advanced all the way up to the early 2000s and discovered that their WiFi adapters can do more than just stupid poo poo like only use their remote monitoring app.
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Jan 4, 2024 19:21
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I've narrowed it down to the m5s and the m3 max, and the m3 max still seems like overkill. Not a terrible price, all in.
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Jan 4, 2024 19:24
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Deviant posted:Has there been any significant advancement in resin machines since the Mono X? Lots of small technically stuff that might not matter a ton for you. For me, the newer ones have a better light source which can lower your later times a bit, and they arrange screen protectors/glass in a better way to protect your LCD from wearing out
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Jan 4, 2024 19:26
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Deviant posted:I've narrowed it down to the m5s and the m3 max, and the m3 max still seems like overkill. I have.....questions....about that shirt at the bottom.
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Jan 4, 2024 19:26
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w00tmonger posted:Lots of small technically stuff that might not matter a ton for you. For me, the newer ones have a better light source which can lower your later times a bit, and they arrange screen protectors/glass in a better way to protect your LCD from wearing out having had to open my mono x a few times, these are value adds. and my mono x is starting to make a bunch of fan noises and generally not-good-sounding things so I'm thinking rather than throw parts into an old machine it's upgrade time. bird food bathtub posted:I have.....questions....about that shirt at the bottom. i'm getting a lot of questions about the shirt already answered by the shirt
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Jan 4, 2024 19:34
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I don't have any questions. Congrats!
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Jan 4, 2024 19:49
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It’s just a front for Falun Dong
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Jan 4, 2024 19:58
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