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sofullofhate posted:
Dang that colour looks amazing.
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Jul 30, 2013 05:23
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:47 |
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You fuckers are making me look at Z4 Coupes now, and drat it they're getting to be pretty reasonably priced...
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Jul 30, 2013 05:27
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I love to see all the coupes being acquired by the group! Sepang is just such a wonderfully unique color, enjoy.
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Jul 30, 2013 08:24
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Crustashio posted:Ok I didn't take a lot of pictures , but I do have a summary: That looks easier than expected, thanks. Gonna need to buy a few more extensions, but other than that...
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Jul 30, 2013 14:14
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So true to the thread title, my cooling system on my e36 has officially poo poo the bed. The timing is especially bad because I have a 500 mile road trip coming up this weekend. The good news is, I come into some money pretty soon so I can afford to fix it. The only thing I'm not sure about is what parts to replace with. I see a lot of different variations (some OEM, some all metal) ranging from $70-ish up to $300. What should I be spending my money on at this point to get the most bang for my buck? I'd like to get out of this cooling system refresh for less than $500 in parts, is that realistic?
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Jul 30, 2013 15:59
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Crunk Abortion posted:I'd like to get out of this cooling system refresh for less than $500 in parts, is that realistic? My breakdown (with expedited shipping for everything because, rather like you, mine poo poo the bed on a Tuesday, and I needed the car for the weekend.) is: Radiator - $98.77 (09/2010) Water Pump - $69.75 (Pelican Parts) Thermostat, Housing, Gaskets, Coolant - $86.01 (Napa Auto) 32mm Fan Wrench - $32.01 (Amazon) Oil Filter kit, Oil, (more) coolant - $51.29 (Napa Auto) Subtotal: $337.83 Hoses add $22 from Pelican. Unless you live someplace hotter than the molten surface of Jupiter's 5th moon, I'd recommend doing the Fan Delete Mod while you're at it. It's ridiculously simple, and removes the possibility that the fan will disintegrate under your hood, taking who knows what with it. A) Buy an 80*c/176*F thermostat instead of the stock 90*C/190*F t-stat B) (In my experience, this is optional) Buy the 80/88C fan switch that fits your car - Part 61318361787 (up to 9/95) or 61318376440 (9/95 and up). note: I skipped this, because you can turn on the aux fan at-will by kicking on the A/C. If it's actually hot enough out to need the aux-fan to keep your radiator cool, you're probably going to have the A/C on anyway. C) Add 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter when you fill the cooling system. D) Don't put the fan back on the water pump at the end of the job. Leave the plastic cap on the water pump threads, instead. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 23:04
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Don't buy the Graf water pump from Pelican. They really, really need to take that thing off the market.
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Jul 30, 2013 23:06
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Questions about wheel offset, I found locally a pretty reasonable price on a set of Beyern Mesh 18" wheels with an offset of 30. From what I have seen the OEM wheel offset is 40. What exactly does this mean? From what I can tell it would mean the wheels will stick further out of the wheel well then stock but will it present any problems on an e36 M3?
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Jul 30, 2013 23:12
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revmoo posted:Don't buy the Graf water pump from Pelican. They really, really need to take that thing off the market. I'll have to look at my order and see if I got the Graf or the Saleri. They're about the same price, and I don't remember off the top of my head. If it is the Graf, I'll be glad that the pump is ridiculously friggin' EASY to replace. Reports show them going bad after anything from 500 to 75,000 miles. That variance is a little extreme for me.
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Jul 30, 2013 23:21
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anyone have another good VIN decoder? The Russian one that told you all the cool features that were installed based on VIN seems to be membership only now.
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Jul 30, 2013 23:22
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They'll stick out an additional 10mm. I went from et40 to et23 on my car and it's slightly noticeable but really looks good. I wouldn't be worried about a 10mm change (but you might, so decide for yourself). There's also a possibility of a tire/wheel combo rubbing somewhere on the body or suspension and it's really hard to be sure without trying it unfortunately. Tires for example, vary quite a bit in their actual dimensions even in the same size so it's really difficult to get on the Internet and math it out. Also bear in mind it could potentially affect your options for using snow chains. So, do the research, but then have a plan b if your intended setup goes wrong (ie, buy different tires, adjust suspension height, etc). If you want to do some homework, go shop all the available tire size options for the wheel in question and then narrow it down to a list of 3-4 different choices that are actually available at a fair price (not as many as you think depending on the sizes you're looking for)and post the sizes here.
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Jul 30, 2013 23:23
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Kenny Rogers posted:Reports show them going bad after anything from 500 to 75,000 miles. That variance is a little extreme for me. I just went through this. I bought a complete cooling kit and installed it but the mental picture of the Graf haunted me so I ordered a EMP Stewart ($160 if you look around) and did the job all over again a week later just for the peace of mind.
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Jul 30, 2013 23:25
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GrAviTy84 posted:anyone have another good VIN decoder? The Russian one that told you all the cool features that were installed based on VIN seems to be membership only now. oh it's a free membership so I guess I just need to read better, nevermind. I found a pretty good deal on a sahara beige metallic 330i, but the question is...can I live with driving a gold car  I'm noticing ZHP 330i's are considerably pricier than the premium or sport package ones. Is this a normal thing or just sellers with wishful thinking? KBB doesn't overvalue the ZHP's nearly as much as these guys do (they're well into like 12k some even as high as 14k).
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Jul 30, 2013 23:29
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ZHPs do tend to change hands for quite a bit more than standard or sport 330s; KBB and the other sites don't really take it into effect. Whether or not the premium is justified is entirely up to you...I didn't think it was, to be honest.revmoo posted:I just went through this. I bought a complete cooling kit and installed it but the mental picture of the Graf haunted me so I ordered a EMP Stewart ($160 if you look around) and did the job all over again a week later just for the peace of mind. I've heard that the EMP Stewart isn't quite as good as their reputation would lead you to believe. I've heard of numerous instances of premature bearing failure in those pumps as well.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:06
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revmoo posted:Don't buy the Graf water pump from Pelican. They really, really need to take that thing off the market. I bought this one back in 2008 (and 50k miles ago) from Turner.........is there any way to find out if it's a Graf? http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3984-water-pump-m50-m52-m52tu-and-m54-engines-with-metal-impeller.aspx I need to replace the sucker and thermo again anyway oh well. EDIT: how come none of you goons have bought this E30 yet? http://www.bmwcca.org/classifieds/listings.php?id=7192 Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 00:09
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What do you guys think a clean 91 525i would sell for? Its pretty much limited to the enthusiast community at this point. I can possibly pick one up for 800.... interior is clean and paint is good. Engine runs and pulls well.... 5 SPD too. This is just a simple flip car.
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Jul 31, 2013 01:41
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In terms of water pumps, the OE composite is genuinely good. Cheaper than the Stewart and its what I put in my rusted 328 and m3. For everything else just buy whatever, and get a plastic thermostat housing. The metal ones are more trouble on older car with corrosion.BrokenKnucklez posted:What do you guys think a clean 91 525i would sell for? Its pretty much limited to the enthusiast community at this point. If its m20, less than 1k. They are gutless undesirable cars. Basically only m50 525s, 535s and 540s are worth anything. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 02:11
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Crustashio posted:If its m20, less than 1k. They are gutless undesirable cars. Basically only m50 525s, 535s and 540s are worth anything. Its an M50 model. So its not completely undesirable model, but on the lower end of things. With a 5spd, it should be some what zippy. I will try to get a photo or two posted. But the body is extremely clean for a 5er in the midwest.
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Jul 31, 2013 02:27
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Kenny Rogers posted:My cooling system + Oil Change job last weekend was $455, including labor - and I replaced the radiator separately in 2010 - so I'd say yes. 32mm is a really common size on bicycles too, you should be able to pick up that wrench for cheap at REI or any local bike shop.
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Jul 31, 2013 02:32
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So I cleaned the icv on the 325 (1992 e36) and now it won't idle without using the throttle. Fack. Too late to pull it apart again tonight to see if its stuck or something. Before this it was not keeping an idle with the MAF plugged in, but changing to a different good MAF had no impact. Any other ideas as to where to look?
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Jul 31, 2013 04:57
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Timmy Cruise posted:So I cleaned the icv on the 325 (1992 e36) and now it won't idle without using the throttle. Fack. Too late to pull it apart again tonight to see if its stuck or something. Have you checked if the TPS is registering that you are off throttle? If not, the ECU will never call for the IAC to turn on and moderate the idle. Motronic fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 05:04
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Keyser S0ze posted:I bought this one back in 2008 (and 50k miles ago) from Turner.........is there any way to find out if it's a Graf? Heh, my dash is cracked in the same exact place.
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Jul 31, 2013 05:17
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The odds of me ever finding an Alpine White/Coral Red e92 (preferably 328i) in manual transmission with M-Sport package are probably 0%, seeing as most people who would be the type to upgrade to M-Sport would also be getting the 335i. I don't care about any of the interior upgrades from the M-Sport stuff, so does it seem like my best option would be to find an e92 and just install the aerodynamic kit/shadowline trim myself? Or I could always save up an extra 30,000 and get an M-Sport 428i 
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Jul 31, 2013 05:18
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GrAviTy84 posted:I'm noticing ZHP 330i's are considerably pricier than the premium or sport package ones. Is this a normal thing or just sellers with wishful thinking? KBB doesn't overvalue the ZHP's nearly as much as these guys do (they're well into like 12k some even as high as 14k). I paid about a $3k premium for mine about 4 years ago. It was very worth it for me because I love the way it looks, love the way it drives (over ZSP), and like knowing my car is a little different than all the other e46 sedans out there. If I bought the ZSP I probably would have swapped into something else by now. I like feeling special  . Also I think the $3k premium I paid is roughly still there, so from a financial standpoint it wasn't actually much more expensive. And when it does come time to sell, a well maintained 6-Speed ZHP sedan on Craigslist will probably sell quick which is a nice bonus. If you don't think the ZHP is worth it over the ZSP then I suppose save your money. But don't expect the ZHP premium to go away because there will be people out there like me who will pay for it.
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Jul 31, 2013 05:29
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Kenny Rogers posted:My cooling system + Oil Change job last weekend was $455, including labor - and I replaced the radiator separately in 2010 - so I'd say yes. That's encouraging, since I intend on doing all the labor myself. I was planning on getting this Mishimoto all aluminum radiator because gently caress plastic failure. The only thing I'm not sure about is the matching hoses for it are going for $80 which seems insane to me considering I can get an OEM radiator for near that. Is that radiator (and/or the hoses) enough of a performance increase to justify the price? Regarding the fan delete, I live on the Florida panhandle, and it's hotter than the devils ballsack lately. Would it be worth getting an upgraded fan, keeping the current one, or still chucking it altogether? I'm really trying to get things off of Amazon where possible because I get Prime overnight shipping on the cheap as well. I've looked around Pelican parts as well, but their layout is confusing as gently caress, and I can't afford the wasted time if I order the wrong part. Am I correct in my understanding that not all e36 models use the same thermostat housings? I have a 1997 328i coupe, which seems to be a black sheep parts-wise since its so close to the refresh. This whole thing is a drat headache 
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Jul 31, 2013 06:37
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Mr. Onslaught posted:The odds of me ever finding an Alpine White/Coral Red e92 (preferably 328i) in manual transmission with M-Sport package are probably 0%, seeing as most people who would be the type to upgrade to M-Sport would also be getting the 335i. I don't care about any of the interior upgrades from the M-Sport stuff, so does it seem like my best option would be to find an e92 and just install the aerodynamic kit/shadowline trim myself? Why are you set on a 328 over a 335? Maintenance? Cost of ownership? Purchase price? Having owned an N54 135i previously I'd just like to chime in and say that it's an absolutely wonderful motor. Plenty of power, was very reliable for the 25k miles I owned it (never needed anything but oil changes), sounded amazing with an intake, and once the JB4 was installed it was just mind-blowingly quick for the price.
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Jul 31, 2013 08:00
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Crunk Abortion posted:Regarding the fan delete, I live on the Florida panhandle, and it's hotter than the devils ballsack lately. Would it be worth getting an upgraded fan, keeping the current one, or still chucking it altogether? To put the fan back on, you would literally stuff it down in there, and spin it on - reverse thread (anticlockwise to put it on). If you had REALLY bad luck, you might have to pop the two plastic expanding rivets out of the corners of the fan shroud and lift it to get the right amount of clearance, then replace the rivets with $1 worth of new rivets, or zipties. You could, in theory, carry the fan around in the trunk for a couple weeks. If the car gets warmer than you like, turn on the A/C (to force the AUX fan on), get where you're going, let the car cool off while you're doing whatever, then spin the fan on when you come out, before you leave. It's reverse threaded so it self-tightens. My experience has been that the gauge hasn't moved one iota from where it was before, under any circumstances. It was 90* in Denver today, so if you're near Tallahassee, you're within a couple degrees. If you're closer to Pensacola, you're still within 10*. I imagine Denver has marginally worse cooling ability, too, due to the thinner air. How that might be offset by any difference in humidity (or lack) when there's no real evaporative cooling going on, I can't speculate. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 08:04
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qONWpcnujLM
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Jul 31, 2013 13:02
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Crunk Abortion posted:The only thing I'm not sure about is the matching hoses for it are going for $80 which seems insane to me considering I can get an OEM radiator for near that.
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Jul 31, 2013 13:34
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Chiming in to say I just got a 2011 328i, with 24k miles. I didn't buy the extended warranty at the dealer (wanted over $7000!) figuring that I am reasonably able to do most repairs myself, unless it involves things inside the engine. When she was trying to sell me the warranty, she said that a full brake job costs $1700. I've changed the brakes and rotors on my other cars - there isn't that much to it. Can someone explain to me why a brake job would cost that much or is she just trying to scare me into buying the warranty? In any case, I'm open to any tips or suggestions for a first time owner.
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Jul 31, 2013 16:08
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JDM3 posted:Can someone explain to me why a brake job would cost that much Overpriced BMW labour rates plus marked up parts.
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Jul 31, 2013 16:10
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Motronic posted:Have you checked if the TPS is registering that you are off throttle? If not, the ECU will never call for the IAC to turn on and moderate the idle. Thanks. That makes sense. I'll test it tonight.
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Jul 31, 2013 16:18
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Crustashio posted:Overpriced BMW labour rates plus marked up parts. This. Plus, I found changing the brakes on an E90 to be pretty easy, to be honest. I'm fairly certain they're increasing costs a LOT, I think the extended warranty around here is about half that, at most.
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Jul 31, 2013 16:43
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Is a brake job (rotors pads etc) even something that would be covered by an extended warranty? I could see it included in something like a covered maintenance plan, but surely those are considered wear items as far as a warranty would be concerned.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:06
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Is a brake job (rotors pads etc) even something that would be covered by an extended warranty? I could see it included in something like a covered maintenance plan, but surely those are considered wear items as far as a warranty would be concerned. Maintenance, yes, warranty, no. That's probably just a price shock tactic.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:27
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Is a brake job (rotors pads etc) even something that would be covered by an extended warranty? I could see it included in something like a covered maintenance plan, but surely those are considered wear items as far as a warranty would be concerned. Yeah - the $7k was for a maintenance/warranty plan taking it to 6 yrs and 100,000 miles, covering everything EXCEPT lost keys. You can add lost keys to it for about $4-500. (How much do these loving keys cost!?) Simpler warranty only on powertrain was much less. Please correct my assumption, but there are a million of these 328i's out there, so if something goes south with the powertrain, I can get a junkyard (ahem..."salvage") transmission or motor for what, 150% of what it would cost for a similar American car?
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Jul 31, 2013 19:11
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Somehow I don't think there are tons of E9x 3 series sitting around in junkyards but that's just me
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Jul 31, 2013 19:17
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JDM3 posted:(How much do these loving keys cost!?) My dad left the key for his E90 in a plane seat pocket once and the replacement was on the order of $450 or something. I don't remember the exact amount, but it was silly.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:31
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JDM3 posted:Yeah - the $7k was for a maintenance/warranty plan taking it to 6 yrs and 100,000 miles, covering everything EXCEPT lost keys. You can add lost keys to it for about $4-500. (How much do these loving keys cost!?) Simpler warranty only on powertrain was much less. The N52 is solid, you're under warranty with free maintenance for another 25k too. If you're still worried near the end of the warranty, bumping it to 6/100 without maintenance is 2-3k I believe. I have a very similar car to you (11 328 with 30k) and am on the fence about it, I'm more concerned about anything electronic.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:55
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:47 |
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I know a lot of people say to skip a warranty and just put a couple grand away for repairs. However if you're bad with impulse spending like me and think you might just spend that money, it might be worth it. I've had two starters, a fuel pump, and various other odds and ends replaced on my e46 and now my nav unit is going out. The warranty has more than paid for itself even before I get my nav sorted, and I still have it for 12000 miles or until December 2016. I would probably still buy the warranty if I did it over again.
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Jul 31, 2013 20:55
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