What did you do to your ride: forensic welding

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > What did you do to your ride: forensic welding

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Jazzzzz: May 16, 2002

edit: goddamned unintentional page snipe making me actually quote something

Yuns posted:

2 weeks ago -

1. Better check the oil level on my bike
2. Can't see any oil in the sightglass better top it off until I have time to change it
3. Weird I still can't see any oil even though I've added more than half a liter?
4. Maybe my sightglass is just too dirty to see anything; I'll stop adding oil

Today -

1. Riding back from the gym I decided to stay in second gear bouncing off the rev limiter.
2. Park in front of my garage and the fan kicks in hard
3. I notice smoke POURING off my cat
4. I think that maybe some leaves got stuck between the cat and fairing but it's not stopping
5. Dump a couple of liters of water on the bike to put out the smoking/potential fire

So basically overfilled my oil because I'm an idiot and my sightglass is basically opaque at this point and once pressure got high enough the bike puked the extra oil onto the red hot cat.

Was this on the MV?

Also, what has clouded up the sightglass - just gunk on (outside of) the glass, or has it been media blasted by stuff kicking up from the road?

# ? Sep 1, 2020 21:29

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# ? May 28, 2024 04:23

mewse: May 2, 2006

Slavvy posted:

I don't think your LED bulb has 270-odd ohms of resistance in it.

I double checked the math and it seems correct, less current = more resistance. This also sort of lines up with how you'd expect the circuit to behave - it's supposed to detect if the headlight filament burns out, if it did the resistance would jump like crazy, if the LED has high resistance then that's why it's detecting the LED as a headlight fault.

I guess if i put a 40 ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb, the warning light should go away? But the resistor might explode

# ? Sep 1, 2020 23:15

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

mewse posted:

I double checked the math and it seems correct, less current = more resistance. This also sort of lines up with how you'd expect the circuit to behave - it's supposed to detect if the headlight filament burns out, if it did the resistance would jump like crazy, if the LED has high resistance then that's why it's detecting the LED as a headlight fault.

I guess if i put a 40 ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb, the warning light should go away? But the resistor might explode

You're telling me that if you put a multimeter across your LED bulb, you're going to see a couple hundred ohms? Doubtful.

I think the problem is the same as it is with indicators and putting a ballast resistor in series with the bulb is the answer.

# ? Sep 1, 2020 23:25

AnnoyBot: May 28, 2001

I can never get a solid read on a sightglass without a flashlight and q-tip.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 01:01

Elviscat: Jan 1, 2008; Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Slavvy posted:

I don't think your LED bulb has 270-odd ohms of resistance in it.

It probably does, the resistor goes in parallel to these headlight path to lower the overall resistance of the circuit, to be more similar to the lower- resistance (and thus higher wattage) LED bulbs.

The maths posted, I think, are on the assumption the resistor's in series, not parallel.

That sort of maths breaks down with an led headlight anyways due to the power supply and whatnot, it's not current straight through a bulb like a halogen bulb.

They also need a special resistor built to handle heat.

Just slam this poo poo on and see if it helps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF47RV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wBUtFbPD37M9Z

Also is your old headlight really only 4W?

# ? Sep 2, 2020 01:29

Yuns: Aug 19, 2000; There is an idea of a Yuns, some kind of abstraction, but there is no real me, only an entity, something illusory, and though I can hide my cold gaze and you can shake my hand and feel flesh gripping yours and maybe you can even sense our lifestyles are probably comparable: I simply am not there.

Jazzzzz posted:

edit: goddamned unintentional page snipe making me actually quote something

Was this on the MV?

Also, what has clouded up the sightglass - just gunk on (outside of) the glass, or has it been media blasted by stuff kicking up from the road?

This was on the KTM RC390. Can't tell why the sightglass is so dirty. Worst case scenario a mix of coolant and dirty oil caused by a blown head gasket. Best case scenario junk semipermanently adhering itself to the glass.

EDIT: I just wiped down the glass so most of it appears to be outside junk but I still can't see the level. KTM's need to be warm to check proper oil level. I assume it's so overfull at this point it's over the top of the sight glass.

Yuns fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Sep 2, 2020

# ? Sep 2, 2020 01:40

tzam: Mar 17, 2009

Usually you can see it if you watch the sight glass as you pull the bike off the side stand, as the bike approaches vertical the oil should come into view. If it becomes visible as soon as you pull it off the stand, it's way overfilled.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 02:35

Yuns: Aug 19, 2000; There is an idea of a Yuns, some kind of abstraction, but there is no real me, only an entity, something illusory, and though I can hide my cold gaze and you can shake my hand and feel flesh gripping yours and maybe you can even sense our lifestyles are probably comparable: I simply am not there.

tzam posted:

Usually you can see it if you watch the sight glass as you pull the bike off the side stand, as the bike approaches vertical the oil should come into view. If it becomes visible as soon as you pull it off the stand, it's way overfilled.

tried the test and you're right. No oil on the side stand and as I pulled it up the oil came up and by the time it was vertical the entire window was full of oil. The window was so dirty with grime it was hard to see at either vertical or on the stand but when you watch while pulling it up the change is easier to see.

EDIT: Just pulled a half liter or so of oil using Ari Henning's spray bottle method and so the oil while on the high part of the sightglass mark should be ok now. (Ari and Zack are national treasures.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcCx6Xl1pV4&t=76s

Yuns fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Sep 2, 2020

# ? Sep 2, 2020 02:49

Shelvocke: Aug 6, 2013; Microwave Engraver

Elviscat posted:

It probably does, the resistor goes in parallel to these headlight path to lower the overall resistance of the circuit, to be more similar to the lower- resistance (and thus higher wattage) LED bulbs.

The maths posted, I think, are on the assumption the resistor's in series, not parallel.

That sort of maths breaks down with an led headlight anyways due to the power supply and whatnot, it's not current straight through a bulb like a halogen bulb.

They also need a special resistor built to handle heat.

Just slam this poo poo on and see if it helps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF47RV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wBUtFbPD37M9Z

Also is your old headlight really only 4W?

It's a gauge bulb, not the headlight, so a normal resistor should be able to handle it in series.

The maths was on the assumption that the circuit that triggers the warning light needs to be tricked into thinking the new bulb is as old and daft as the new one

I'm willing to concede that I'm probably a dumbass screaming into the void, I'd usually try and replace the whole logic with my own wires or slap a 12v bulb in

# ? Sep 2, 2020 08:29

goddamnedtwisto: Dec 31, 2004; If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you; Fun Shoe

tzam posted:

Usually you can see it if you watch the sight glass as you pull the bike off the side stand, as the bike approaches vertical the oil should come into view. If it becomes visible as soon as you pull it off the stand, it's way overfilled.

This is one of the vanishingly small legit uses for a selfie stick.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 11:26

Elviscat: Jan 1, 2008; Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Shelvocke posted:

It's a gauge bulb, not the headlight, so a normal resistor should be able to handle it in series.

I see.

However a resistor in series is not going to help, and will just make the LED not work (the LED bulb, in fact already has a resistor in series, since the maximum voltage you can drop across an LED is 2-3.6V, depending on color).

You want to lower the resistance, to fool the electronics into thinking it's an incandescent bulb, a resistor in parallel lowers the resistance.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 15:11

Jazzzzz: May 16, 2002

goddamnedtwisto posted:

This is one of the vanishingly small legit uses for a selfie stick.

How else am I supposed to properly frame up pictures of my taint for my OnlyFans

# ? Sep 2, 2020 15:31

Chris Knight: Jun 5, 2002; me @ ur posts; Fun Shoe

No, the other oily hole!

# ? Sep 2, 2020 15:39

Shelvocke: Aug 6, 2013; Microwave Engraver

Elviscat posted:

I see.

However a resistor in series is not going to help, and will just make the LED not work (the LED bulb, in fact already has a resistor in series, since the maximum voltage you can drop across an LED is 2-3.6V, depending on color).

You want to lower the resistance, to fool the electronics into thinking it's an incandescent bulb, a resistor in parallel lowers the resistance.

At the risk of entering a never ending discussion loop, if it's a 3.6v led then it does need a resistor to make it work on the 12v power supply ..?

e. You covered that. I have no new information to share

Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Sep 2, 2020

# ? Sep 2, 2020 17:08

mewse: May 2, 2006

I checked the shop manual and after seeing this I don't know if it's fixable with a resistor:

Looks like they were relying on properties of the incandescent dash bulb to keep the warning light dim, but it's technically "on" in all circumstances :lol:

# ? Sep 2, 2020 17:11

Shelvocke: Aug 6, 2013; Microwave Engraver

mewse posted:

I checked the shop manual and after seeing this I don't know if it's fixable with a resistor:

Looks like they were relying on properties of the incandescent dash bulb to keep the warning light dim, but it's technically "on" in all circumstances

You could remove the warning light bulb

And then a few steps later you have to put a snake in your dash to eat the frogs that you put there to eat the slugs

# ? Sep 2, 2020 17:14

mewse: May 2, 2006

Shelvocke posted:

You could remove the warning light bulb

And then a few steps later you have to put a snake in your dash to eat the frogs that you put there to eat the slugs

It just says "head lamp" so I'll just leave it unless it starts to annoy me

# ? Sep 2, 2020 17:30

Beve Stuscemi: Jun 6, 2001

Tons of old bikes relied on the resistance of the bulbs as sort of a wonky voltage regulator.

certain bikes were nearly unable to take the loss of a single bulb without having a cascading lighting failure due to the increased voltage the blown bulb created, like my old RD350.

One bulb would go, then the rest of them would get brighter and a minute later another would go, then 20 seconds later another, 5 seconds later another until they all just went.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 18:56

Steakandchips: Apr 30, 2009

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Tons of old bikes relied on the resistance of the bulbs as sort of a wonky voltage regulator.

certain bikes were nearly unable to take the loss of a single bulb without having a cascading lighting failure due to the increased voltage the blown bulb created, like my old RD350.

One bulb would go, then the rest of them would get brighter and a minute later another would go, then 20 seconds later another, 5 seconds later another until they all just went.

So instead of having to replace one bulb, you now have to replace them all in one go.

That was a very stupid design.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 19:21

goddamnedtwisto: Dec 31, 2004; If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you; Fun Shoe

mewse posted:

I checked the shop manual and after seeing this I don't know if it's fixable with a resistor:

Looks like they were relying on properties of the incandescent dash bulb to keep the warning light dim, but it's technically "on" in all circumstances

So presumably the warning light runs in parallel with the lighting circuit (maybe with a resistor in series) so when a bulb blows, dropping the resistance of the circuit, it lights the warning light? Could a resistor (or *another* resistor) in series with the warning lamp do the trick?

# ? Sep 2, 2020 19:35

Chris Knight: Jun 5, 2002; me @ ur posts; Fun Shoe

It's resistors all the way down.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 19:47

mewse: May 2, 2006

I'll probably just pull the bulb the next time I have things apart.

Before LED + glass

After

# ? Sep 2, 2020 19:58

Shelvocke: Aug 6, 2013; Microwave Engraver

goddamnedtwisto posted:

So presumably the warning light runs in parallel with the lighting circuit (maybe with a resistor in series) so when a bulb blows, dropping the resistance of the circuit, it lights the warning light? Could a resistor (or *another* resistor) in series with the warning lamp do the trick?

This is the end of the logic puzzle I reached when I posted the mathsy bit but I was too dumb to justify why

# ? Sep 2, 2020 20:44

Beve Stuscemi: Jun 6, 2001

Steakandchips posted:

So instead of having to replace one bulb, you now have to replace them all in one go.

That was a very stupid design.

That�s 70�s Yamaha electrics for you. Despite building some really cool bikes, they were just super not good at electricals.

This is the same company that used the stator as a starter motor and vice versa, so it�s to be expected.

# ? Sep 2, 2020 21:23

Beve Stuscemi: Jun 6, 2001

I didn�t ride the Goldwing today because I got out to the garage and the front tire was flat.

Hopefully it�s fixable, I wasnt planning on buying tires for it just yet :ssj:

# ? Sep 4, 2020 14:26

FBS: Apr 27, 2015; The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Installed the OEM Yamaha saddlebag kit: (e: as TheBacon pointed out these are basically the SW-Motech Blaze saddlebags with a slightly different bag design)

First impressions are that the hardware kit is nice and solid, but the luggage itself is pretty lightweight and basic. Not surprising given the price relative to most luggage ($150 for the mount kit and $240 for the saddlebags). It should work great for my needs for very occasional multiday trips or a random shopping spree but I wouldn't want to use them every day.

With that in mind I really like how minimal the mounts are when you remove the stabilizer tubes:

The only surprise was that it sits farther back on the pillion than I expected and the rear luggage loops on the seat are covered up, so the hooks on my Kreiga tailbag aren't long enough to reach. I think I just need to find some kinda loops to slip through the seat loops and extend the reach.

FBS fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Sep 4, 2020

# ? Sep 4, 2020 19:25

echomadman: Aug 24, 2004; Nap Ghost

Plasma cut and welded up a stainless flange to mount a GSXR 1000 can on my mates DR650 based supermoto

# ? Sep 4, 2020 20:45

right arm: Oct 30, 2011

Lol

# ? Sep 4, 2020 20:51

Supradog: Sep 1, 2004; A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH

FBS posted:

Installed the OEM Yamaha saddlebag kit:

First impressions are that the hardware kit is nice and solid, but the luggage itself is pretty lightweight and basic. Not surprising given the price relative to most luggage ($150 for the mount kit and $240 for the saddlebags). It should work great for my needs for very occasional multiday trips or a random shopping spree but I wouldn't want to use them every day.

With that in mind I really like how minimal the mounts are when you remove the stabilizer tubes:

The only surprise was that it sits farther back on the pillion than I expected and the rear luggage loops on the seat are covered up, so the hooks on my Kreiga tailbag aren't long enough to reach. I think I just need to find some kinda loops to slip through the seat loops and extend the reach.

That style of soft luggage design is usually very non-waterproof. The scenario is that you put on the rain covers. The default rain covers do not cover the inner part towards the wheels, so water and sand gets slung from the rear wheel along the luggage pooling inside the waterproof cover soaking the bag totally.

I may be wrong, I've only seen givi variants of those,not Yamaha OEM. But please pack all inside in dry bags and test. Wet luggage sucks so much.

# ? Sep 4, 2020 21:14

TheBacon: Feb 8, 2012; #essereFerrari

FBS posted:

Installed the OEM Yamaha saddlebag kit:

First impressions are that the hardware kit is nice and solid, but the luggage itself is pretty lightweight and basic. Not surprising given the price relative to most luggage ($150 for the mount kit and $240 for the saddlebags). It should work great for my needs for very occasional multiday trips or a random shopping spree but I wouldn't want to use them every day.

With that in mind I really like how minimal the mounts are when you remove the stabilizer tubes:

The only surprise was that it sits farther back on the pillion than I expected and the rear luggage loops on the seat are covered up, so the hooks on my Kreiga tailbag aren't long enough to reach. I think I just need to find some kinda loops to slip through the seat loops and extend the reach.

Looks almost exactly like the SW-Motech Blaze system. Oddly enough I just got that for my MT so uh I can also slap my Kriega on and compare soon enough here heh.

# ? Sep 4, 2020 21:17

Elviscat: Jan 1, 2008; Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

echomadman posted:

Plasma cut and welded up a stainless flange to mount a GSXR 1000 can on my mates DR650 based supermoto

Your work looks nice....

...but why?

# ? Sep 4, 2020 21:19

echomadman: Aug 24, 2004; Nap Ghost

Previous can was completely blown out and deafening.
Gsxr/Busa cans are a common enough upgrade for DR motors, this one has a bigbore so its a 710cc. The gsxr cans flow enough and still keep the volume down
They can be got for very little money too as most people upgrade to aftermarkets.
I have a Busa can on my DRZ to repalce the stubby Yoshimura it had when I bought it. As i get old i no longer want to have a bike that sets off car alarms.

The reason I had to make a new flange was it came off a full Ti system and the existing pipe on his bike is stainless, and a smaller diameter.
Its actually two sheets of 1.5 mm stainless welded together as we didnt have anything thicker to hand.

Bonus fun shot of plasma cutter piercing a slice of the Ti exhaust pipe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2gAt14zQUw

# ? Sep 4, 2020 21:42

FBS: Apr 27, 2015; The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Supradog posted:

That style of soft luggage design is usually very non-waterproof. The scenario is that you put on the rain covers. The default rain covers do not cover the inner part towards the wheels, so water and sand gets slung from the rear wheel along the luggage pooling inside the waterproof cover soaking the bag totally.

I may be wrong, I've only seen givi variants of those,not Yamaha OEM. But please pack all inside in dry bags and test. Wet luggage sucks so much.

These come with waterproof inner bags so that shouldn't be an issue.

FBS fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Sep 4, 2020

# ? Sep 4, 2020 22:03

Beve Stuscemi: Jun 6, 2001

Gsxr cans are a super common upgrade for DR�s

# ? Sep 4, 2020 22:16

FBS: Apr 27, 2015; The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

TheBacon posted:

Looks almost exactly like the SW-Motech Blaze system. Oddly enough I just got that for my MT so uh I can also slap my Kriega on and compare soon enough here heh.

I was out running errands this afternoon and could not for the life of me think of a simple, cheap item that would work to extend the rear loop. As soon as I got home and started googling it it seems obvious: a cheap nylon dog collar is the perfect size.

# ? Sep 4, 2020 22:27

HenryJLittlefinger: Jan 31, 2010; stomp clap

Elviscat posted:

Your work looks nice....

...but why?

echomadman posted:

Previous can was completely blown out and deafening.
Gsxr/Busa cans are a common enough upgrade for DR motors, this one has a bigbore so its a 710cc. The gsxr cans flow enough and still keep the volume down
They can be got for very little money too as most people upgrade to aftermarkets.
I have a Busa can on my DRZ to repalce the stubby Yoshimura it had when I bought it. As i get old i no longer want to have a bike that sets off car alarms.

The reason I had to make a new flange was it came off a full Ti system and the existing pipe on his bike is stainless, and a smaller diameter.
Its actually two sheets of 1.5 mm stainless welded together as we didnt have anything thicker to hand.

Bonus fun shot of plasma cutter piercing a slice of the Ti exhaust pipe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2gAt14zQUw

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Gsxr cans are a super common upgrade for DR’s

Can confirm, the GSXR/Busa can should be stock on a DR. It's such a common mod that Procycle wholecloth copied the design and sells a near exact replica and they also developed a spark arrestor and midpipe specifically for them.

Nice work, echomadman.

# ? Sep 4, 2020 23:13

Verman: Jul 4, 2005; Third time is a charm right?

echomadman posted:

Plasma cut and welded up a stainless flange to mount a GSXR 1000 can on my mates DR650 based supermoto

Nice welds. One of my buddies races 80s era e30 bmws and bought a wire feed welder for fixing random poo poo in it with no welding skills. I learned to weld in highschool so I'm impressed when I see good welding.

# ? Sep 4, 2020 23:26

bsamu: Mar 11, 2006

I flushed my brake fluid for the first time in maybe 5 years and my lovely vibratey brakes have magically turned into smooth and powerful brakes.

oops.

# ? Sep 6, 2020 15:15

Renaissance Robot: Oct 10, 2010; Bite my furry metal ass

5 months late but I finally changed my oil and nothing went wrong :toot:

Definitely overtorqued the drain bolt last time but apparently not enough to do any real damage, all the threads look fine. Apparently this has been causing me a good amount of low level stress because my sleep since doing the change has been incredible

# ? Sep 6, 2020 21:59

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# ? May 28, 2024 04:23

Tindjin: Aug 4, 2006; Do not seek death.
Death will find you.
But seek the road
which makes death a fulfillment.

This weekend was a major clean up and organization effort in my garage in preparation for a couple projects.
I hate cleaning.

# ? Sep 7, 2020 07:59

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > What did you do to your ride: forensic welding

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