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spog posted:LR is much faster for editing a lot of images, you can blast your way through an entire day's shoot in a single sitting. The only sucky part is imports taking loving ages, but that's what coffee is for. I love LR.
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# ? Aug 10, 2010 12:22 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 16:21 |
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spog posted:LR is much faster for editing a lot of images, you can blast your way through an entire day's shoot in a single sitting. And you can't even put a pricetag on LR's RAW editing, and the ability to go back to any step in your process, no matter how long ago. Oh, and virtual copies, I've got those all over the place.
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# ? Aug 10, 2010 14:22 |
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I am doing my first paid shoot soon of someone's house so that they can submit it to a local magazine. She is a friend of my family, so there wont be a huge amount of anxiety. However, if I do a great job I could get a ton of referrals in the future. What I will use is Canon T1i with a Tamron 18-250. I have a Canon 50mm as well, but I would probably only use it for detail shots etc. I will also be bringing my Nikon N90S for film shots. Lighting wise, I was hoping to just use natural light, but I will be bringing my 430EX II just in case. Does anyone have any advice for shooting interiors/homes? I have looked stuff up on the internet already, but I wanted to ask you guys before I do this. I cant afford to gently caress up
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# ? Aug 12, 2010 21:44 |
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General Gingersnap posted:I am doing my first paid shoot soon of someone's house so that they can submit it to a local magazine. She is a friend of my family, so there wont be a huge amount of anxiety. However, if I do a great job I could get a ton of referrals in the future. What I will use is Canon T1i with a Tamron 18-250. I have a Canon 50mm as well, but I would probably only use it for detail shots etc. I will also be bringing my Nikon N90S for film shots. Lighting wise, I was hoping to just use natural light, but I will be bringing my 430EX II just in case. Does anyone have any advice for shooting interiors/homes? I have looked stuff up on the internet already, but I wanted to ask you guys before I do this. I cant afford to gently caress up Get something WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDE. Mades the house look big and poo poo.
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# ? Aug 12, 2010 22:39 |
You could do what that guy who takes like 36 exposures and comps them together so that they look surreal and beautiful and insane does.
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# ? Aug 12, 2010 22:40 |
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General Gingersnap posted:I cant afford to gently caress up Isn't that the beauty of architectural shooting, that if you actually gently caress up you can just go back and do that poo poo over again? I have nothing to add except good luck and post the pictures when you're done so we can critique the poo poo out of them.
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# ? Aug 12, 2010 22:43 |
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Detail, detail, detail. Double, triple and quadruple check everything in the frame. That's why it's good to bring a laptop so you can see the photo larger otherwise you'll go back home, load up the photo and be like "DOH!" because something wasn't right off in the corner or background like a chair was out of place or there was a dirty glass on the counter or you can see your reflection in a mirror somewhere across the room.
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# ? Aug 12, 2010 23:28 |
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Paragon8 posted:Get something WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDE. Mades the house look big and poo poo. What do you recommend specifically? I take it the 18-250 wont cut it? Ughghhghhghghghghghgh I want the F/1.8 85mm canon, but if I need a new lens for this job.......... it will have to wait I know a prime lens is preferred, but hell I dont really need a super wide prime for anything else I do HPL posted:Detail, detail, detail. Double, triple and quadruple check everything in the frame. That's why it's good to bring a laptop so you can see the photo larger otherwise you'll go back home, load up the photo and be like "DOH!" because something wasn't right off in the corner or background like a chair was out of place or there was a dirty glass on the counter or you can see your reflection in a mirror somewhere across the room. Thats a good idea, thanks! But what to you recommend in the way of lighting? I prefer natural light, and want to emulate this to a degree: http://www.theselby.com/ It seems to me that he mostly uses natural light, and that coincides more with the way I shoot. But I could be completely wrong I have no idea tuyop posted:You could do what that guy who takes like 36 exposures and comps them together so that they look surreal and beautiful and insane does. Where can I check that out?
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 01:01 |
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Maybe you could rent whatever you need? The Canon 10-22 is probably a good fit.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 01:10 |
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I dont know why I didnt think of renting before, that will probably be best
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 01:16 |
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Was just going to suggest what Martyoof wrote. Rent a wide-angle lens such as the Canon 10-22. Use your 50 for detail shots. An 85mm is a bit too long on your crop body. Since that wide-angle isn't the fastest lens in the world, you might want to bring a tripod too. Good luck!
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 01:21 |
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General Gingersnap posted:Thats a good idea, thanks! But what to you recommend in the way of lighting? I prefer natural light, and want to emulate this to a degree: http://www.theselby.com/ It seems to me that he mostly uses natural light, and that coincides more with the way I shoot. But I could be completely wrong I have no idea Keep in mind that that site is more about portraiture than architecture. The blown highlights in the windows, barrel distortion at the edges and unlevel camera angles would make an architectural photographer scream.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 01:22 |
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^^^^ Thanks for all of the advice guys, really appreciate it. It seems like the shoot will be scheduled for September, so I plan on practicing in my apartment before then. HPF, I see what you mean, and I want to find a balance between how shoot normally and traditional architecture photography. Something a little distinct, you know? Alright, ill stop hogging the thread now
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 02:53 |
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General Gingersnap posted:^^^^ I've been doing interior photography on the side for a few extra bucks for about 4 months now. Here's a few pointers that would have helped me a lot when I first started. Get there early and take out all the clutter. Everyone has a house that is full of junk that just looks bad in photos. This includes insane amounts of throw pillows, big stacks of coasters, and ugly coffee makers from 1998. Also, take all the magnets and junk off the fridge. It never looks good. A wide lens is invaluable. I shoot with a Canon 16-35mm 2.8 on a 5D2 and I still wish I could go wider. Especially in bathrooms. If you do rent the 10-22 try doing some vertically oriented shots. The perspective really stretches the hell out of everything and makes the room look tall and long. Here's one I did of my moms living room that made it look like a cathedral. Make sure you turn on every single light in the house. Ambient lighting is your friend. Its also important to stop down to at least f/8 to make sure your depth of field is nice and wide. Both of these facts mean that a tripod is your best friend. Make sure to either use cable release or a 2 or 10 second delay on your photos to make sure you don't blur your exposure. I have found bracketing to be really important. Especially when I am on a job where time is limited. It allows me to worry less about my settings and also make composites out of a couple different exposures. It's really easy to blow out your windows on a bright day and sometimes its nice to be able to bring them back a little. I started doing this on a Rebel XT and a rented 17-40mm and now I make several hundred bucks on it every single week. Once you have a small portfolio you'll want to contact real estate agencies and tradesmen in your area. I have a long term contract with a local cabinet company that gives me constant work. And it never would have happened if it wasn't for one phone call and a half way decent portfolio (it wasn't even that decent).
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 03:40 |
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How did you get into the business? I'm incredibly interested and it seems like an insanely fun thing to do, just go around taking photos of people's houses. Obviously there's stress, but it seems fun enough to balance out
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 04:01 |
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Great advice, Wooten. Thanks for writing that up.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 04:21 |
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An ultra wide is also valuable because if you need to do perspective correction in post, you'll lose part of the photo so if you start with an ultra-wide, you'll end up with just wide. The two main ways around this are to make sure your camera is dead level and/or use a tilt/shift lens. You'll also want to use the timer or a remote shutter release to get out of the way of mirror/glass reflections or from casting a shadow in the photo. If you are a vampire, ignore this advice. Here are a couple I did while staying in a hotel: It's kind of a "what not to do" thing because you can see all the clutter around the sink. Plus I didn't have a tilt/shift so I had to raise and lower the camera itself while keeping it level which meant making sacrifices like not being able to see the top of the counter in the second photo. And yes, the light was that yellowy. HPL fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Aug 13, 2010 |
# ? Aug 13, 2010 04:33 |
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Martytoof posted:Obviously there's stress, but it seems fun enough to balance out
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 06:01 |
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psylent posted:If you think that's stressful, try shooting a wedding! Number one on my list of favours I will never ever do for someone, no matter how much I like them. "It's going to be a simple ceremony and they can't afford a photographer so they'll be happy with anything" is like ten lies in one sentence.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 06:13 |
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Martytoof posted:Number one on my list of favours I will never ever do for someone, no matter how much I like them. "Unfortunately, I'll be busy that weekend but I can refer you to someone who will be happy to look into it." is another ten lies in one sentence, but one good turn deserves another.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 06:20 |
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General Gingersnap posted:Where can I check that out?
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 06:25 |
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General Gingersnap posted:Where can I check that out? edit: ack Martytoof posted:How did you get into the business? I'm incredibly interested and it seems like an insanely fun thing to do, just go around taking photos of people's houses. *architectural photographers like to woot a lot evidently pwn fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Aug 13, 2010 |
# ? Aug 13, 2010 07:14 |
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pwn posted:I'm seriously considering trying my hand at it. wooten*, I have a question. Would you ever feel comfortable doing your job on film? Trade off bracketing for higher dynamic range? I think medium format would be great for interior photography. The fact that you can get so wide, have so much dynamic range and so much detail would really be great. I don't know how comfortable I would be, as I don't ever mess with film. I do spend a lot of time dreaming of a decent medium/large format camera though. Maybe some day. As for stress, I make 80% of my money from wedding photography so doing interiors is pretty lax. I got started by going to a bunch of networking groups, mainly BNI as a substitute for someone who was enough of a sucker to actually pay for one of those things. I introduced myself to every real estate agent and tradesman and set up meetings with several of them to show them a portfolio which I had shot entirely in 3 different family member's houses. I totally didn't know what I was doing at the time, and I'm a bit embarrassed looking at the photos I started with now. It worked so well I ended up going to 2 other BNI groups and doing the same thing. It kind of perpetuated itself and now there are several people that call me regularly to set up shoots. I also got a crap load of head shot sessions out of it. Getting into the business isn't that difficult, I'm not woot fatigue after all. My photos are mostly okay, but his stuff is at a totally different level. I think for most forms of photography the ability to talk yourself up to anyone who will listen is more important than actually taking amazing photos. FAKE EDIT: As an added note, I am now banned from 2 BNI groups for going to close to a dozen meetings and never signing up and paying the fee.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 07:44 |
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This might sound dumb but what's a BNI group? I'm literally throwing every word I can think of at that acronym and nothing's coming back out
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 08:08 |
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Martytoof posted:This might sound dumb but what's a BNI group? I'm literally throwing every word I can think of at that acronym and nothing's coming back out Business Networking International. Basically 20-40 different professionals pay $500 a year to meet once a week in a restaurant and give one minute speeches about what they do. Only one member is allowed from each kind of profession, and each member is supposed to recommend each other member to their clients who are in need of whatever service. Attendance is mandatory or you can have a sub come in for you, who then gives your one minute speech and is allowed 30 seconds to talk about their business. Obviously everyone who is a member is dying to get out of their weekly meeting, so finding one is pretty much a sure thing for getting to go. They also host recruit meetings where everyone can attend once a month or so. It gets a little bit more complicated and shady in some areas, but its pretty easy to exploit as a photographer. They meet pretty much everywhere (probably including Canada) so it's pretty easy to find a group. There is usually a group for every chamber of commerce, so you can usually find several in a small area.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 08:16 |
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Thanks for the Lightroom infos guys - I do really like playing with the Camera Raw stuff in Photoshop and it sounds great for keeping your workflow moving too. How's the sharpening in it, is it as good as the Photoshop offerings? I think I'm going to recommend it to my uncle too, he's into photography and he was telling me about Photoshop and how everybody loves it. He's not really that technical and I think Lightroom's interface would suit him way more
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 14:39 |
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Wooten posted:Thanks for the info! You are the wind beneath my wings
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 17:03 |
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Wooten posted:Business Networking International. Basically 20-40 different professionals pay $500 a year to meet once a week in a restaurant and give one minute speeches about what they do. Only one member is allowed from each kind of profession, and each member is supposed to recommend each other member to their clients who are in need of whatever service. Attendance is mandatory or you can have a sub come in for you, who then gives your one minute speech and is allowed 30 seconds to talk about their business. On their website they say they are BNI international. What's the other I stand for?
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 17:38 |
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I'll ponder this on my way down to the ATM machine.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 17:50 |
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Hail Wooten
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 17:51 |
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Martytoof posted:Number one on my list of favours I will never ever do for someone, no matter how much I like them. At the beginning of the year I shot a wedding for a friend and it was by far the most stressful job I've ever done. There were a lot of factors that I should have dealt with before the wedding and I almost had a mild anxiety attack after the ceremony. Although having something to eat and a few celebratory drinks helped while shooting the reception so it wasn't all bad. But it's definitely one of those (paid) favours that you should turn down unless you're eating hand to mouth.
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# ? Aug 13, 2010 21:49 |
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Martytoof posted:I'll ponder this on my way down to the ATM machine.
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# ? Aug 14, 2010 02:46 |
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Did anyone watch Mad Men last night? Is Davey Kellogg a real photographer, or a made up character?
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# ? Aug 16, 2010 23:12 |
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Apologies if this is a common question, but what's the best way to get dried water blots off a lens? They are very dried on there.
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# ? Aug 17, 2010 19:57 |
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Water and a lens cloth, I would imagine.
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# ? Aug 17, 2010 20:09 |
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The problem with using water on anything is that if you don't dry it 100% afterwards you'll just leave more water spots. And you'd better be using a non-laundered non-dirty optical cloth with distilled water too. The best solution is to use something like a kimwipe or a pec-pad, but then they aren't as absorbent as something reusable... I use reagent-grade methanol (<99.9% pure) for cleaning most optical things. It dissolves anything organic nearly instantly, but won't harm glass or coatings (could affect plastic but I haven't had any problems). It also evaporates into nothing without leaving a residue or water spots like rubbing alcohol solutions do. If you've been cleaning things with water or the like, you might be surprised at how many oils come off the lens onto the cloth the first time you use methanol. http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Methyl-Alcohol-ACS-Methanol-16oz-P6657C670.aspx $14.95 for a pint -- should last a long time because you only need a little bit. It's toxic and it burns with an invisible flame and you can't ship it outside the USA, but it is just so drat useful. (Incidentally, the famous and expensive "Eclipse" lens cleaning fluid, which is sold with most sensor swabs, is just the same reagent methanol as the above link, so you really don't need to worry about melting your lenses. Eclipse claims that they do some sort of super-filtering but I've had zero problems with the lab-grade stuff). If you can't get your hands on methanol for whatever reason, high-strength ammonia solutions work acceptably well. Avoid Windex and the like cause they often have soaps, but any generic "glass cleaning solution" that only lists ammonia and water should be ok. orange lime fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Aug 18, 2010 |
# ? Aug 18, 2010 00:27 |
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Does it matter if I keep a circular polarizer on my lens all the time (even inside etc)? If it does, how do you keep your filters in your bag? The box my filter came in is pretty big for what it is.
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# ? Aug 18, 2010 21:34 |
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ksr posted:Does it matter if I keep a circular polarizer on my lens all the time (even inside etc)? At the very least you lose some speed as it cuts the amount of light coming in. I'm not sure if there are other issues. My filters came with carrying cases that are only a little bigger than the filter.
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# ? Aug 18, 2010 21:44 |
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My CPL drops between 1 and 2 stops depending on the lighting and its angle, so if you reeeealllly want your kit lens to become a t/6.3-11 then go ahead. The filter box I have is chunky, so I wrap it up in a lens cloth and put it in a tight flat zippered compartment of my bag and that works fine.
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# ? Aug 18, 2010 22:35 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 16:21 |
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How feasible is taking a panorama handheld? I have a tripod, but it's pretty terrible at keeping a consistent horizontal level.
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# ? Aug 19, 2010 09:06 |