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Skails posted:Is there a good way to strip paint off part of a model? Like just a sword? The mini is metal. Generally speaking, it's easier to just paint over. Solvents will run where you don't want them to, and even if they didn't you'd have to reprime. If you can break the part off, maybe?
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Jan 15, 2018 15:58
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the topic has come up a few times, and I think the consensus was that there's a cleaner that works really well for shaving off acrylic paint without harming plastic/metal, something Green?
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Jan 15, 2018 16:38
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Pyrolocutus posted:Thanks for this as well! I'm planning to do a clear liquid layer and then an ice layer (this is gonna be a winter scene). Any ideas for doing the ice layer? This might do the trick.
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Jan 15, 2018 17:05
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Neurolimal posted:the topic has come up a few times, and I think the consensus was that there's a cleaner that works really well for shaving off acrylic paint without harming plastic/metal, something Green? Also I painted a bone boy. The staff did not turn out how I wanted and I'll probably just redo it.
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Jan 15, 2018 17:07
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Oh, well in that case the question comes down to "can you cleanly cut off the part that is overpainted, and is the current paint too thick to paint over?" If the answer is no and yes, then I guess you better come up with some elaborate way to suspend your figure while dipping the sword into some cleaner  For what its worth, tin is pretty easy to bend, so if you dont have a jewelers' saw you can bend the sword's base until it breaks off, then sand down the hilt end with some oxide sandpaper. You'll likely end up with a slightly shorter sword, of course. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 17:25
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Does a plastic stripping agent work just as well on resin? Or will the resin become a part of the soup?
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Jan 15, 2018 17:41
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Neurolimal posted:Oh, well in that case the question comes down to "can you cleanly cut off the part that is overpainted, and is the current paint too thick to paint over?" If the answer is no and yes... This is pretty much the case. The paint is getting thick, probably not too thick to paint over if it's gonna be too much trouble though, and half the sword is attached to his arm and chest. I have primer I can brush on, so that won't be a problem. I may just lightly sand it and see if I like that better.
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Jan 15, 2018 17:47
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Skails posted:This is pretty much the case. The paint is getting thick, probably not too thick to paint over if it's gonna be too much trouble though, and half the sword is attached to his arm and chest. I have primer I can brush on, so that won't be a problem. I may just lightly sand it and see if I like that better. If it's just a sword and the model is metal you can probably just use a knife and scrape the paint off as though you were cleaning off a mold line.
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Jan 15, 2018 18:03
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99% alcohol works well for removing paint from small areas. Make sure to use a synthetic brush
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Jan 15, 2018 18:37
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Single part would be tricky. Windex removed everything i've tried it on. Maybe just paint the sword with it and see if it just starts coming off after a minute and keep rinsing and removing.
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Jan 15, 2018 18:57
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Harkano posted:Anyone able to give me a few pointers for where I'm going wrong in photography? I think you're just over exposing a bit. Idk why the guide suggest iso400. If you're using a tripod there's no reason not to be at your cameras lowest ISO setting. F22 is good, just play with the exposure time Like Bulba suggested, try diffusing the light a bit. Direct light will usually blow out your subject. I used to take wax paper and tape it over my light sources
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Jan 15, 2018 20:31
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Skails posted:Is there a good way to strip paint off part of a model? Like just a sword? The mini is metal. You can try a really aggressive solvent and paint it directly on the part. Maybe do an experiment on the very tip. Something like acetone. Always brush away from the part you want to save, go very slow, and ask yourself if it's really worth it versus just trying another layer. Alternatively you could try a mechanical solution. Very fine grit sandpaper, scraping with a knife, etc.
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Jan 15, 2018 23:51
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I keep seeing this cool launching missile effect, but hell if they can find someone selling the bits to try it myself. Any suggestions? 
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Jan 16, 2018 00:20
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OptimusWang posted:I keep seeing this cool launching missile effect, but hell if they can find someone selling the bits to try it myself. Any suggestions? These guys do some of them - http://www.armorcast.com/Cinematic-Effects
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Jan 16, 2018 00:22
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OptimusWang posted:I keep seeing this cool launching missile effect, but hell if they can find someone selling the bits to try it myself. Any suggestions? 
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Jan 16, 2018 01:18
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I just had my set of FW masterclass books show up, these are awesome. So much detail on how to weather.
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Jan 16, 2018 01:22
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Pyrolocutus posted:Thanks for this as well! I'm planning to do a clear liquid layer and then an ice layer (this is gonna be a winter scene). Any ideas for doing the ice layer? If you're talking about cracked ice, you can try Distress Crackle Paint. Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint 4 oz Jar, Clear Rock Candy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hpIxAbPPB12CK I own some, but have not tried it yet. Not sure how it would look on top of epoxy, but typically I think after it cracks and dries people use a bluish green wash and then dry brush white. Would be interested in seeing what it looks like if you go through with it.
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Jan 16, 2018 17:12
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Booley posted:I just had my set of FW masterclass books show up, these are awesome. So much detail on how to weather. What are these books? Edit: Also, I've been considering getting some Micro Art Studio bases because I think they look a lot better than my ultra boring black sand and tuft bases. I know there are a billion companies around that do premade bases, but does anyone have some recommendations for an alternative? The main reason I'm considering the MAS bases, is my flgs sells them in the store and instant gratification. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 17:17
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:What are these books? https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Model-Masterclass-Collection-2017 They're a set of 3 books covering a bunch of their coolest models/dioramas/displays. A lot of detail on how they got different effects. And unlike most GW publications they don't stick to purely GW products, especially if its not something GW makes. The first book uses mig pigments, though the heresy book uses the FW ones since they make them now. I've used MAS bases for my Tau, they're nice bases. As long as they have the style you want, I can't see any reason not to go for them.
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Jan 16, 2018 18:28
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Hi thread, I recently picked up one of those Reaper Learn to Paint kits and wanted to share my first paint job ever!     I'm pleasantly surprised with how it came out. It was easier to make tiny brush strokes than I thought it would be, and I decided to go beyond the instructions in a few instances to add the runes and do the eyes. I see now in the pictures that I missed a few spots, so I'll go touch those up soon. Other than that, I think the base coating was kind of hard to get the hang of and the paint ended up a little thicker than it needed to be, but that's ok. Part of it is probably that reaper instructs you not to prime these and not to thin the base coat at all, so maybe that's just the nature of the beast. Any other critiques or tips would be welcome! All in all, I really enjoyed doing this and how it puts you into a nice "zen" state. While I don't have a lot of interest in playing any warhammer or other mini games any time soon, I could definitely see myself buying some sculpts just for the sake of painting them. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 18:48
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Mikey Purp posted:Hi thread, I recently picked up one of those Reaper Learn to Paint kits and wanted to share my first paint job ever! That's pretty drat good for a first model. I honestly can't see what spots you missed, so my advice would be to be careful about "touching things up," because you don't want to overdue things.
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Jan 16, 2018 18:53
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Hey thanks! It's kind of hard to see because the gray blends into the background, but in the first shot you can see that I did not paint the inside part of the sleeve where it hits the staff. That being said, it's pretty much unnoticeable when you aren't looking at an extreme close-up picture, so I will take you advice to heart and refrain from putting on any more finishing touches than that. I have two other minis in this kit to paint, after all!
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Jan 16, 2018 19:30
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Mikey Purp posted:Hi thread, I recently picked up one of those Reaper Learn to Paint kits and wanted to share my first paint job ever! That looks phenomenal for a first model, particularly the cloth. If I had a criticism it would be to see if you couldn't straighten out the staff, and next model take care to address the flashing in the hands between the fingers. Putting a bit more emphasis on defining the skin (like the shadows between the fingers) would go a long way, but to be honest the best thing you can do is just keep painting. Keep this model somewhere and see how you look ten, thirty, or a hundred models later. You'll be amazed.
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Jan 16, 2018 19:31
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Booyah- posted:Anyone have a trick for transferring paint from a citadel pot to a dropper bottle and losing as little of it as possible in the process? My technique is similar to Darnon's, but I just pour mine into the dropper bottle - I found that I didn't need the funnel at all. I found that it tended to clog up and it was just one more thing I had to get paint out of and transfer to the dropper bottle. Just don't make the swap while sitting on a white couch, like I did.
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Jan 16, 2018 20:17
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Got 11 terminators for $70 on eBay... This paint job is miles ahead of my wildest dreams of future ability. They're gonna stick out in my army, but the value was too good to pass up.   
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Jan 16, 2018 20:41
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Booley posted:https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Model-Masterclass-Collection-2017 Rad thanks! I never knew these existed until now. I think I'm going to grab a few of the bases and see what I can do with them. They all look really nice to be honest.
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Jan 16, 2018 20:54
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TheBigAristotle posted:Got 11 terminators for $70 on eBay... This paint job is miles ahead of my wildest dreams of future ability. They're gonna stick out in my army, but the value was too good to pass up. They look good, don't get me wrong, but you could definitely attain that and exceed that with some practice!
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Jan 16, 2018 21:10
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Mikey Purp posted:Hi thread, I recently picked up one of those Reaper Learn to Paint kits and wanted to share my first paint job ever! Oh wow you started with the advanced kit! I'll probably be picking that up at some point, if only to get more paints(and another container to hold more paints)
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Jan 16, 2018 23:45
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Fin.  
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Jan 17, 2018 03:48
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SRM posted:They look good, don't get me wrong, but you could definitely attain that and exceed that with some practice! Funny, someone said that exact thing to me tonight at the store I was playing at. Guess we'll find out, but thanks for the encouragement 
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Jan 17, 2018 06:47
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Mikey Purp posted:Hi thread, I recently picked up one of those Reaper Learn to Paint kits and wanted to share my first paint job ever! I love that model! It's so great for trying out blending techniques on, and learning about light and shadow in miniatures. It came out well, I'm glad you got the essence of painting so quickly (the Zen), and even without 40k or other miniatures games, you can just make board games fancier, or D&D character brought to life.
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Jan 17, 2018 09:05
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:That looks phenomenal for a first model, particularly the cloth. If I had a criticism it would be to see if you couldn't straighten out the staff, and next model take care to address the flashing in the hands between the fingers. Putting a bit more emphasis on defining the skin (like the shadows between the fingers) would go a long way, but to be honest the best thing you can do is just keep painting. Keep this model somewhere and see how you look ten, thirty, or a hundred models later. You'll be amazed. The instructions say that you can straighten the model by dropping them in very hot water to soften and then bending them straight. Do you think that would ruin the paint job if I did it now? Arthil posted:Oh wow you started with the advanced kit! I'll probably be picking that up at some point, if only to get more paints(and another container to hold more paints) Yeah I only did that after reading that the two kits could be started in any order, and the basic kit was out of stock at the time. Even jumping in without the core skills kit, the instructions were clear and it taught me a lot so I highly recommend it. I will probably go back and do the core skills one after I'm done with this kit, although for some stupid reason it's over $50 on amazon right now. Wazzu posted:I love that model! It's so great for trying out blending techniques on, and learning about light and shadow in miniatures. It came out well, I'm glad you got the essence of painting so quickly (the Zen), and even without 40k or other miniatures games, you can just make board games fancier, or D&D character brought to life. Yup, after starting the rogue model in this kit last night, I see now that this wizard model really lends itself to focusing on the layering and blending without worrying too much about the actual movement of the cloth. And you're totally right about painting for board games...working up to painting my Gloomhaven minis was the reason that I got this kit in the first place.
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Jan 17, 2018 16:45
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Mikey Purp posted:The instructions say that you can straighten the model by dropping them in very hot water to soften and then bending them straight. Do you think that would ruin the paint job if I did it now? Paint tends to not be that flexible, you'd probably end up chipping it off. Just keep it in minsmd for future miniatures. The overall process is to boil/microwave some water, let the mini sit in the water for a little bit, then fix the bends and 'shock' the plastic in cold water (while holding the bent part straight)
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Jan 17, 2018 16:48
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Mikey Purp posted:The instructions say that you can straighten the model by dropping them in very hot water to soften and then bending them straight. Do you think that would ruin the paint job if I did it now? yes
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Jan 17, 2018 16:49
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Cool, lesson learned for next time. Thanks guys.
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Jan 17, 2018 16:50
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I spent over two hours priming three Garden of Morr kits last night. Here's a top tip: Make sure the needle you're using in your airbrush matches the job. It was taking me forever to get the mausoleums done when I remembered that I had my medium detail needle in the brush. Once I swapped to the wider needle, things went much more smoothly. Also, 14 hours later, my index finger is still numb from holding down the trigger. I really wish Master made a high-roller trigger equivalent.
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Jan 17, 2018 17:13
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I swapped the blade on my Farseer Skyrunner from blue to a Jade Green.   I watched the video Duncan did on Jade weapons and didn't like it at all, so I went my own route with it.
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Jan 17, 2018 18:17
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Over on the Badger Facebook page they showed that they're sticking a 1/8th adapter in with every shipment for their air brush deal. So if you've got a non-Badger hose, you'll be good to go. Unless you have a non-air brush hose then yer still screwed.
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Jan 17, 2018 18:49
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How do I paint stubble on faces, and also how to eyes, like the picture below?
Phi230 fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 17, 2018 20:33
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The easiest way is to mix a bit of grey in with your skintone and paint it on where the stubble would be. You could also try mixing other colors, but I find that grey is a good default to go with.
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Jan 17, 2018 20:36
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