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Phat_Albert posted:This thread shouldnt be on the second page!! Could you post a pic of how you mounted the GoPro? I just googled the Slow Stick and it doesn't look like it'd even be able to get it off the ground, but they look like they'd be a good first platform for learning to fly R/C and doing vids. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 07:25
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They are an excellent platform for learning, and were the defacto learner recommendation for about the last decade. They are also one of the defacto standards for aerial photography. Once you have the radio equipment, and a power system, you can buy a NPS (No Power System) Slow Stick for $25, which obviously leads many people to customize them. They're also bigger than they look in pictures. People have sent SLR cameras up with modified Slow Sticks, they're kind of known for their weight carrying capabilities. The newer slow sticks also come with a fiberglass fuselage, and carbon fiber wing spars, so they're lighter and stronger. Mine is pretty well modified, with a modified thrust angle, brushless motor, new front and rear landing gear, reinforced rudder and elevator, etc. I mounted the GoPro by making my own front landing gear out of aluminum strips and some bolts and locknuts. All said and done about $10 worth of hardware.  Also, finally finished rendering and uploading the video I shot last night. Great flying weather, dead calm, and she flew pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pans1ssB-0I Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 14:41
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I was having a bit of a google around after my last post and came across Radical RC's website and holy poo poo is there some stuff you can do with those things. Double wings + Warthog-style dual fans? Sure, why not! Pretty sure I'll be ordering one come payday. One question with them: are the wings usually bolted/screwed on, or do you have to glue them?
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Jun 28, 2011 02:15
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The wing is a self contained unit made of foam and reinforced with aluminum and carbon fiber. It's secured to the fuselage with some crazy latex-ish rubber bands. Sounds weird, but it holds tight, and is a pretty common design. I recommend the 2410-09y motor and electronic speed controller from headsuprc.com if you don't have one already. Their prop saver is nice as well, and you'll need it.
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Jun 28, 2011 03:25
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Phat_Albert posted:The wing is a self contained unit made of foam and reinforced with aluminum and carbon fiber. It's secured to the fuselage with some crazy latex-ish rubber bands. Sounds weird, but it holds tight, and is a pretty common design. Does that mean I'd be able to take it off, stuff whole lot in a backpack so I can ride to where I'll fly it and then put it back on easily? All the good spots in my area for flying would be way easier to get to on the Gixxer. Phat_Albert posted:I recommend the 2410-09y motor and electronic speed controller from headsuprc.com if you don't have one already. Their prop saver is nice as well, and you'll need it. Cool, thanks for that. e: crap, they don't ship internationally. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jun 28, 2011 |
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Jun 28, 2011 07:24
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So we can post our RC airplanes now? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gtJTJsGUXE
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Jun 28, 2011 13:46
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Wojcigitty posted:So we can post our RC airplanes now? 150CCs  Is that yours?
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Jun 28, 2011 13:52
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renraku posted:150CCs Haha, yeah. It's actually got a 170cc engine in it...it's a two-stroke, boxer twin. With the tuned pipes on it it probably makes around 20-22 hp.
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Jun 28, 2011 14:22
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Does that mean I'd be able to take it off, stuff whole lot in a backpack so I can ride to where I'll fly it and then put it back on easily? All the good spots in my area for flying would be way easier to get to on the Gixxer. Sadly no, the wings are at least 4/5ths as long as a gsxr, and once you build them, they dont fold. The fuse is also a couple feet long. Unless your bike is luggaged up to ride around the world, it probably needs to be transported in a car. Wojcigitty posted:So we can post our RC airplanes now? Wow, kudos to you, it takes balls to fly something like that. I get worried flying a 1.5lb plane with a brushless motor on it, I cant picture taking something like that up. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jun 28, 2011 |
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Jun 28, 2011 14:38
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Phat_Albert posted:Sadly no, the wings are at least 4/5ths as long as a gsxr, and once you build them, they dont fold. The fuse is also a couple feet long. Unless your bike is luggaged up to ride around the world, it probably needs to be transported in a car. Ah well, it'll have to be my flatmate's wagon then.
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Jun 28, 2011 14:58
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Ah well, it'll have to be my flatmate's wagon then. That will probably work the best. If you cant order from HeadsUpRC, there is always hobbyking. If you havent already, check this out: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407136
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Jun 28, 2011 16:32
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Just because I don't want plane people to have all the fun. :P Hopefully flying it tonight. It's a 450 clone. For those in the know, it started as an EXI SE v2 clone but changed the head and tail on it quite a few time from vibrations issues I was tracking down. EXI D213F on cyclics, Assan GA-250 for a gyro (works very well for the price as a MEMS gyro) + Hitech MSG-5084MG tail servo. Mystery 3550kv for the motor, pretty sure It's running a 13 pinions but I'm too lazy to check. Jazz 40-6-18 for the ESC (Most expensive bit of the heli but worth it for the nice slow start.) using Turnigy 20c 3s 2200 batteries but will be trying some 35C soon. Basically an el-cheapo 450 V2 clone. Flys remarkably well once I figured out the vibration issue which was a bad motor. I also have a CopterX belted Pro but I crashed it recently and didn't muster up the courage to rebuild it. The crash was caused by a servo horn it was cut too close to the ball link hole and it just opened up under pressure and let the ball link fly out. Ugh.
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Jun 28, 2011 20:12
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Aaaaaand I found out why no one likes the fiberglass Slow Stick fuselage. Mine cracked on takeoff from the stress of solid aluminum landing gear and a GoPro. At least the GoPro was on though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw3Sqf3Fa_U Thankfully I had an aluminum fuselage hanging around, and stuck a dowel down it for rigidity.
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Jun 29, 2011 15:35
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Literally have the worst luck with the gears in my Slash 4x4. First one somehow was grinding on the bulkhead bottom. This one started to act up.. pulled it apart and found the tiniest rock got smashed in the gear between the wall and just gradually started chewing a big groove in it.  I think that's a sign I should buy the clear cover for it. Also, after going to aluminum rear knuckles or whatever they're called I have wicked toe in and horrible tire wear. The insides are smoked. Anyway to help correct this?
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Jun 30, 2011 02:03
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Page 3? For shame! Cooked the motor on my Slow Stick yesterday. Thankfully the controls remained functional and I got it down. At 15 seconds, you can hear the motor go. I couldnt hear that on the ground, but did see a puff of smoke. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUJcoQ7LHUI
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Jul 5, 2011 17:55
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Has anyone played around with low Kv motors and 6s batteries in electric 1/8th? I'm considering picking a 1400kv motor up and a 6s to see how it is. Basically everything I've read about it has been positive. There's less strain on the esc and battery due to higher voltage, and the motors seem to run about the same temps as a 1900/2050 on 4s if not lower. People are reporting SUBSTANTIALLY longer runtimes on smaller mah batteries as well. Sounds like finishing a 20min main on a 3300mah is common. A 1400kv on 6s will run roughly the same rpm as a 2050 on 4s (what I'm currently running) so controlability should not be an issue. The bottom end is supposedly much stronger but that could be dialed out on the esc with current limit. Thoughts?
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Jul 6, 2011 17:21
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Any suggestions for someone looking for more of a toy than to get into a whole hobby? I'd love to get into it, but can't afford to get sucked into another hobby. I'd still like to at least have something to drift around the living room and chase the cat around for around $200. From a quick scan through the thread, Traxxas and Tamiya sound like the way to go, so I'm thinking of this: http://www.sidebysidesports.com/tr731mubo302.html There's a $280 VXL version, but is the difference really big enough that there's something better for me to spend $200 on?
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Jul 14, 2011 20:09
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Oh good god what am I doing with my life It FINALLY came in a couple of hours ago. Got a Novak Havoc Pro SC esc and a Tekin RL 17.5 in it, can't wait to test drive it tomorrow (drat you rain!!). I LOVE the way this thing looks, and if it handles as well as the XXX-SCT, I think I'll be hooked.
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Jul 15, 2011 03:52
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TremorX posted:Oh good god what am I doing with my life Did you get the SCB for fun or is there actually a class where you race at? There's a couple people who have them at my local track but they're still running novice. I can't see there being enough around here at least for their own class, and it'd be less than fair to let them run with SCTs... if only for the substantially better jumping ability. That's the one thing I hate about running 2wd SCT outside, the fuckers are light enough to get raped by the wind in the air, and it's almost ALWAYS windy here. Picked up a new FT B4.1 kit yesterday and got it built. Man what a blast  . The old lovely OG b4 I got used was so worn out and sloppy... this thing drives like a goddamn dream. I'm running a viper esc and 17.5t motor, which surprisingly enough is drat competitive with mod buggy at the super tight indoor track we have around here. I can't believe the difference between this kit and the old b4 I had. Well worth it. Since no one responded to my prior question (and I was going to do it anyway) I did get a 1400kv 1/8th motor on order. Interested to see how that compares to my 2050kv on 4s. should be fun!
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Jul 17, 2011 05:40
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They're gonna let me run it with the Open 4WD SCT class just to play around until a proper class forms. The advantages/disadvantages kind of even it out there. I stuck my Castle 5700kv setup in and bashed around with it yesterday, and it's an absolute joy to drive! It's insanely quick and really nimble.
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Jul 17, 2011 16:22
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TremorX posted:They're gonna let me run it with the Open 4WD SCT class just to play around until a proper class forms. The advantages/disadvantages kind of even it out there. That's cool they are accommodating you  . Could be some stiff competition in 4x4 though, hell at our track 4x4sct is just over a second slower than the fastest 1/8th e times! Sounds like there's a few people who fly r/c planes in this thread... I picked up a dx6i to go with my sr120 heli with the thought of snagging a little 3d foamie plane in the future - anyone have experience with the HK kits? I've got a credit there from a piece of poo poo charger that died in two days.
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Jul 19, 2011 16:24
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I dont fly 3d, so I dont know much about them, but from what I hear with the HK planes, they are not plug-n-play, they will take some fiddling to get them to fly right.
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Jul 19, 2011 20:24
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So a couple coworkers are going to attach a cheapo airsoft gun and balloons to RC cars for real-life mario kart. What's the best way to remotely trigger the airsoft gun to fire (it's an electric one so it doesn't need an actual trigger pull)? I'm fine with some soldering but have no idea which parts I should be looking at.
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Jul 22, 2011 20:54
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Holy poo poo! Just finished upgrading my stampede. Put big bore shocks in, the traxxas tq receiver and transmitter, and a vxl system. This truck is now insane (and I thought it was good before!) Question: does anyone have a good alternative to the traxxas body clips? Each time I flip it the clips are pushing through the body and damaging the holes - I've already replaced one body for this reason.
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Jul 23, 2011 06:12
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skippo posted:Holy poo poo! Just finished upgrading my stampede. Put big bore shocks in, the traxxas tq receiver and transmitter, and a vxl system. This truck is now insane (and I thought it was good before!) I think that's what the nylon washers are for. (if you don't have any, get some) They go between the body and the clip.
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Jul 23, 2011 07:07
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Yea but they can't go on the rear mounts because of the lip on the tray. I use them on the front, it's the rear that's getting damaged.
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Jul 23, 2011 12:16
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hayden. posted:So a couple coworkers are going to attach a cheapo airsoft gun and balloons to RC cars for real-life mario kart. What's the best way to remotely trigger the airsoft gun to fire (it's an electric one so it doesn't need an actual trigger pull)? I'm fine with some soldering but have no idea which parts I should be looking at. Third channel should do it, I think? Are the balloons to represent 'lives'? What about oil slicks, etc.? There's a forum thread somewhere on an rc crawling forum where this guy squeezed a 6-channel radio into an old KO pistol-grip case. That would be perfect for RC Mario Kart If you want to get really complicated you could rig up some Arduino-controlled random bonus generator (for the boxes you drive through in the game)!
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Jul 23, 2011 14:20
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krushgroove posted:Third channel should do it, I think? Are the balloons to represent 'lives'? What about oil slicks, etc.? There's a forum thread somewhere on an rc crawling forum where this guy squeezed a 6-channel radio into an old KO pistol-grip case. That would be perfect for RC Mario Kart From what I can tell, most Traxxas cars are two channel? One for gas/brake and one for steering? So you're saying I can replace that with a three channel and use the third channel for activating the gun. hayden. fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Jul 23, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 15:13
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skippo posted:Holy poo poo! Just finished upgrading my stampede. Put big bore shocks in, the traxxas tq receiver and transmitter, and a vxl system. This truck is now insane (and I thought it was good before!) Yeah, the VXL makes it basically a new truck, completely awesome upgrade. You could put tape on the body to keep it from splitting so easily.
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Jul 23, 2011 19:05
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skippo posted:Yea but they can't go on the rear mounts because of the lip on the tray. I use them on the front, it's the rear that's getting damaged. Gotcha. Could you trim them down a bit? I know on my Slash 4x4 the rears are pretty snug as well. I just kind of force them in place. Seems to work ok.
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Jul 23, 2011 20:39
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I'll get onto it and share the results
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Jul 23, 2011 22:44
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I just dug this up in my closet: Losi XXX NT2 Adam Drake Edition I completely forgot about this bad boy I bought in '09. I checked the website and they no longer sell it apparently because ROAR dropped the 1/10 scale nitro truck class. What a bummer. This is my 5th RC car (first nitro), but the only one I still own. I need to buy a few tools, an engine and remote for this thing (along with starter items) and I'll be good to start bashing once again.
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Jul 24, 2011 05:28
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Adam Drake. That fat smug bastard. SUPER DOPE! That's a cool truggy though.
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Jul 24, 2011 05:32
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hayden. posted:From what I can tell, most Traxxas cars are two channel? One for gas/brake and one for steering? So you're saying I can replace that with a three channel and use the third channel for activating the gun. I'm not very familiar with the Traxxas TQ controller, but I think there's a version of it with 3 channels. If not, you can get cheap 3-ch 2.4GHz radios on ebay. And as long as you find the trigger wires and contacts on the guns (I haven't taken apart my airsoft gun in ages though), I don't see why you can't rig up the 3rd channel to be the trigger.
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Jul 24, 2011 09:44
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elite_garbage_man posted:I just dug this up in my closet: Finish the build and get everything else you need, it's a fun truck for sure!
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Jul 24, 2011 15:00
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hayden. posted:So a couple coworkers are going to attach a cheapo airsoft gun and balloons to RC cars for real-life mario kart. What's the best way to remotely trigger the airsoft gun to fire (it's an electric one so it doesn't need an actual trigger pull)? I'm fine with some soldering but have no idea which parts I should be looking at. The simplest way would probably be to rig a servo to a third channel to mechanically push the trigger. If you want to do it electronically you'll need something like this relay plus a receiver switch on the third channel.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:16
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front wing flexing posted:Adam Drake. That fat smug bastard. SUPER DOPE! He was at PNB, and seemed like a decent enough guy. I had no idea who he was, and when I got there (late), he was pitting right by the front door so I went up and asked him where I was supposed to go, if I needed to check in, where I could pit, etc... He was helpful and I didn't realize until hours later that that's who he was. I really had no idea just how big of an event PNB was gonna be when I showed up. Anyway, I ran my XXX-SCB this weekend... With a 5700kv it was a bit much to wrangle, but I had a blast with it!! I was putting down lap times comparable to the 4WDs in the Open SCT class, but since it was new and I had like zero runtime on it, I wasn't in the least bit consistent. It seemed pretty evenly matched in Open SCT, though. Where it lacked the traction of the 4WDs, it made it up in being lighter, and being able to take jumps better was countered by being open wheel and less able to recover from being bumped around. Everyone seemed to really like it, and a few mentioned wanting to get one. Hopefully it takes off as a class, even if it's just a general 1/10 Buggy (22s, SCBs, etc) class. I did much better in 2WD SCT with my XXX-SCT than I EVER did with my Blitz, too, and was really consistent. In a field of 22, I finished 7th. I can't say enough good about the XXX stuff, and the only complaint I have is the name (I admit, I stammer some, and saying "Triple-Ex-Ess-See-Tee" comes out more as "Triple SHKEKSHKEKSKKOOOOAOW" TremorX fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Jul 25, 2011 |
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Jul 25, 2011 04:59
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Just bought an stainless screw set, fuel tank (one included was cracked), engine and transmitter for it. Should be here in a few days. What would be a good class to start in for a rookie racer? The tracks in socal are primarily 1/10 and 1/8 on and off electric 2wd and 4wd. There are F1, touring and SC classes as well.
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Jul 25, 2011 05:53
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Burn the Priest posted:I had that exact truck in 2004. At that time 1/10 scale nitro was still really popular because the monster trucks/truggies were purely experimental, so if you wanted to race nitro trucks then you either got that or the Associated GT. Having had both of those trucks I always preferred the Losi over the Associated. The Losi had really crisp handling whereas the Associated would always push no matter what I changed. Not surprised on that comparison. The Associated was still heavily derived from the original gold tub RC10.
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Jul 25, 2011 06:33
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So I got onto the stampede shell mount dilemma- trying to make it tough enough to withstand a few rolls and flips from constant bashing, and me getting used to the brushless system. Liquid nailsed the little white washers onto the bottom and top of the shell ( rear mounts only- no issues with front). This lasted all of about ten minutes before the plastic itself had been damaged and started to tear. Took them off and got some of that thick tape that's got material through it. Taped all around the holes on the top and bottom. Doesn't look pretty but it's done the job. Next body I buy I will do this immediately to avoid damaging this mounts. Might even buy a clear one so I can do it first then paint over the top.
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Jul 29, 2011 14:36
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