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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Older post, but I didn't see a reply posted. Most disc brake pads have a wear indicator tab on them. Once the brake pads get worn down enough, you get a metallic screeching while moving (and it'll often go away while braking). Check both sides, if one side is worn more than the other, then you have either a sticking caliper, or the slide pins are sticking. Same goes for inner vs outer pads, if one is worn significantly more, you probably have sticking slide pins. Thanks. I'm just gonna make Schwab look at it at this point, and then fix it myself. Two more van questions: 1: the rear door leaks. I wanna just replace the rubber seal first, but the only ones I can find for sale are for the front doors. Is "rear door" the wrong term to be using or does nobody in the universe sell these things? I don't want a junkyard one that's probably as bad or worse than the one I have. 2: curb weight on this tub (per google) is 5300 lbs. Can a 2 ton jack lift one end of it? I have no idea how the weight is distributed, though I plan to roll it across a scale eventually.
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Apr 18, 2018 18:46
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Javid posted:Thanks. I'm just gonna make Schwab look at it at this point, and then fix it myself. 2. - I can easily jack up one end of my savana 1500 with a 2 ton jack from HF but use jackstands because I don't want to die. Even if the weight distribution is silly (I think it's forward if the van is empty), it's still not going to be more than 4/5 on only one half.
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Apr 18, 2018 20:38
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An update, re: me, the 2006 chevy s10, v6, broken left rear wheel, blah blah. Surprise! It was the bearing and seal for the left rear wheel. I could probably fix it if I had the parts. Unfortunately, I don’t have the parts, and I’m a little bit out of the way, to the tune of about 40 miles north from Laramie WY. I have reliable shelter and food for a few weeks, and effectively infinite water, so being immobile isn’t a bad thing for a little while. My geico roadside assistance friends used to say I could get their assistance within 50 miles of their center. Now that I need them, however, it’s 20 miles. So, that became a non option in the least satisfying way. I’m a little bit stuck, if I’m honest. Can’t really have parts delivered out here at the moment, with usps dragging its feet on setting up a rural route. My current plan, with a fair amount of salt sprinkled on the word “plan”, is to have the bits sent to my P.O. box in Rock River and spend a couple days hiking the ~20 miles there and ~20 back to pick it up. That is, assuming car parts can be delivered to p.o. boxes. I’ve been burned on that front before. I guess the biggest question on my mind is if there’s a simple solution I’m overlooking, logistically, that doesn’t mean going on a full blown adventure. I’m probably just screwed by my own carelessness, but I wanted to make sure I’m out of options before I start training for my stroll.
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Apr 19, 2018 02:56
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Is there no Craigslist or something where you can offer somebody  to pick your poo poo up for you or give you a ride there and back or something? Does UPS not go there? Your problem existing in 2018 baffles me.
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Apr 19, 2018 03:05
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Javid posted:Is there no Craigslist or something where you can offer somebody Yeah, it’s a new problem for me too. Nobody spends the winter out here, and spring’s late, so my neighbors aren’t back. UPS would deliver here if the rural route were set up, but I can’t really help that. As for craigslist, I never even considered it, but it could be helpful. I’ll definitely keep it in mind when I need to go in.
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Apr 19, 2018 03:17
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Also poo poo like that is exactly what AAA is for. I forget what the Plus membership costs but I'm pretty sure it's less than one remote tow.
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Apr 19, 2018 03:19
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BattleCattle posted:I guess the biggest question on my mind is if there’s a simple solution I’m overlooking, logistically, that doesn’t mean going on a full blown adventure. I’m probably just screwed by my own carelessness, but I wanted to make sure I’m out of options before I start training for my stroll.
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Apr 19, 2018 03:22
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Javid posted:Also poo poo like that is exactly what AAA is for. I forget what the Plus membership costs but I'm pretty sure it's less than one remote tow. Yup. We were relying on Geico roadside, which does generally the same thing, but they fell through. I guess we just put our money on the wrong horse. edit: Dennis McClaren posted:I've been watching The Terror on AMC, and you're going to need to know that once the food gets low, your mind goes with it. Be on the look out for un-natural thoughts. Make sure you have plenty of kindling for fire; extract some gasoline from your chevy's tank if the car is going nowhere. Build some sort of spiked moat, or other defensive barrier to protect you from the bears that will be smelling your fear, and searching you out for food. Finally, save at least one bullet as your last resort. We’re good on food. I can fish and there’s a reservoir. Worst comes to worst I can just eat badgers. Theyre everywhere.
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Apr 19, 2018 03:27
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You just wait until you have a real (medical) problem and you'll really reap the rewards of the rural lifestyle.
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Apr 19, 2018 04:08
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Javid posted:Also poo poo like that is exactly what AAA is for. I forget what the Plus membership costs but I'm pretty sure it's less than one remote tow. BattleCattle, sign up for AAA. They will be a (possibly literal, given your location) life-saver the next time your car decides to be less than functional. I'm not sure they would be able to help with your current parts-delivery problem but they're super useful for lots of other issues. Also, how are you posting about living in rural WY without just random scenery photos? I understand why you'd choose to live there, but I like to see the reminders.
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Apr 19, 2018 15:47
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Less of a "hey guys, I'm going to have to resort to eating badgers if this doesn't work" question... Background: I am (still) rigging up a 2004 GMC Savana 1500 to hold motorcycles. I want to install these  to hold three bikes and to do that I am planning on drilling through the floor and bolting them down using big washers so the stress is more distributed. To do that, I will need to drop the gas tank so that I don't end up drilling a bunch of holes in the gas tank which, I think, would be bad. Now to my question. While the gas tank is dropped, should I also replace the fuel pump? The 04 savana doesn't have a separate fuel filter and this one has 165k miles on it so if it did I would have replaced the fuel filter. I have to assume the prior owner never replaced it and it seems like relatively cheap and easy preventative maintenance as long as I'm dropping the tank already. Does that make sense? Am I being stupid?
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Apr 19, 2018 15:53
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Definitely replace it. It will break 2 weeks after you put the tank back in.
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Apr 19, 2018 15:56
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ExecuDork posted:It's less than one non-remote tow, when you add in all the additional hassle that you'll get when you don't have some kind of third-party roadside coverage. Signed up for triple A. Looking forward to not being betrayed again! In other news, I found a (sorta kinda) solution. I called the GM dealership in Laramie, and they offered to send a fella to pick me up. I figure I'll buy another truck, and even if I don't, I can at least buy the parts and bring 'em home. Without the new truck, though, the bringing-'em-home part could be tedious. Also, I've been rude, where are my manners? Here's some pictures.      Gonna stop hogging the thread now. Thanks for the help, fellas.
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Apr 19, 2018 18:50
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shy boy from chess club posted:Definitely replace it. It will break 2 weeks after you put the tank back in. Truer words. Thanks for the sanity check. BattleCattle posted:Signed up for triple A. Looking forward to not being betrayed again! That looks so nice. Want some pictures of NYC garbage piles?
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Apr 19, 2018 22:04
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My 04 Ford Taurus Wouldn't start. The battery was fine but turning the key did nothing. No noise, no attempt to start, nothing. Now, because I make good decisions, I actually have another Taurus of the same generation sitting around with a broken transmission. So, even though the car was hot, and I'm a bad mechanic, and I only had a couple hours of daylight, I changed them. Busted my knuckles, cursed god, begged tiny nuts to please turn etc. Now, when I turn the key, I hear a whine that I guess is the starter turning over. So what happened? I'm guessing that the previous starter (solenoid?) was bad, and the replacement is good except that I put it in wrong. Could it be that I got the two larger wires crossed?
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Apr 20, 2018 02:01
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Jack B Nimble posted:My 04 Ford Taurus Wouldn't start. The battery was fine but turning the key did nothing. No noise, no attempt to start, nothing. Now, because I make good decisions, I actually have another Taurus of the same generation sitting around with a broken transmission. So, even though the car was hot, and I'm a bad mechanic, and I only had a couple hours of daylight, I changed them. Busted my knuckles, cursed god, begged tiny nuts to please turn etc. Changed what exactly? That could have been something as simple as a loose battery cable. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Apr 20, 2018 |
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Apr 20, 2018 03:24
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Oh, sorry, I changed the starter.
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Apr 20, 2018 04:04
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Jack B Nimble posted:Oh, sorry, I changed the starter. Who said the battery was fine? What's the voltage?
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Apr 20, 2018 04:08
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Jack B Nimble posted:Oh, sorry, I changed the starter. There's a solenoid that's supposed to activate the Bendix to engage the starter gear with the flywheel. If the starter is just spinning, that solenoid may be disconnected or bad.
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Apr 20, 2018 04:12
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I think the solenoid and the starter came off as one piece, but I may not have hooked the two larger wires up to the right posts. From what I could tell there was a wire connecting the solenoid to the starter and then another that comes down from the rest of the car, the wiring harness I guess. I'll check the voltage on the battery tomorrow. This looks pretty much exactly like what I changed: 
Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Apr 20, 2018 |
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Apr 20, 2018 04:27
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Memento posted:2008 Ford Focus, 2.0 petrol, auto trans, BLACK. Still having this issue. The high-mount brake light works fine, the brakes come on very faintly when you press the brakes. When you press the brakes with the park lights off, the park lights come on. When you press the brakes with the park lights on, the high mount brake light works fine but everything else at the back turns off. I flushed the brake fluid (I know it almost certainly had nothing to do with it but it was due) and I've replaced the brake light switch with a known-good switch out of my friend's Falcon. Globes are all new - it was an easy way to eliminate things. Guess it's time to start checking wiring? Another weird thing, not sure if it's related, is that the right hand side front park light is out, and replacing the globe doesn't fix it. Edit: also, the brake lights don't come on at all if the ignition is off. Memento fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Apr 20, 2018 |
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Apr 20, 2018 11:53
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Ok I feel like I might be being dicked around by a dealership and I am wondering what I should do. Last Saturday I walked into a Chevy dealership and test drove a 2018 Camaro. I fell in love with it on the spot so I bought it. After 3 hours at the dealership the finance guy was like "let's go get the keys!" But the sales manager came up with a printout of some TSB the car needed before I could take it home and said "we could lose our franchise if we let you take the car. We'll order the part and you'll have your Camaro in a few days, in the meantime we'll give you a loaner" and they gave me a Cruze from the service dept to drive home in. Not exactly what I went in for. Monday they called to let me know they ordered the part. Wednesday I texted the sales guy and asked for an update and 5 hours later he responded and said they didn't have the part yet. Yesterday at 2 I called the sales manager who was "on the phone" when I called and he didn't call back. The printout of the TSB this guy showed me was for a boot that needs to go around some wires in the ABS system because the electrical tape put there at the factory wasn't enough I guess. The date on the TSB was April 11 2018. The part that's suspicious to me is I can't find any reference to this TSB anywhere online. I'm trying to give them the benefit of the doubt because after all they did give me a loaner and didn't send me home in my trade-in (which was nothing particularly special or desirable) but ducking my calls and not being able to find anything about the TSB online has me worried that they aren't being honest with me. My theory is that because I went in there with some pretty heavy credit requirements (payments deferred 90 days and no money down) on a Saturday that they were unable to immediately secure financing so they've had to shop around and it's taking them a while to secure financing. Rather than letting me take the car and put miles on it only to tell me to bring it back if financing falls through they give me a worthless car until financing is all set. If that's the case, fine I'm cool with that. Just tell me that's what's up instead of possibly making up a bogus TSB. It's just weird because I've never experienced buying a car and not driving it home that day. The lack of communication and my suspicion about the TSB has me all stressed out. Anyone here have access to Chevy TSBs? GutBomb fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Apr 20, 2018 |
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Apr 20, 2018 13:15
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If you have the VIN, I think you can get it from NHTSA. Some manufacturers put it online, accessible through the owner's portal.
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Apr 20, 2018 14:59
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla. 145k miles on it. Im the second owner, i think. i bought it at a wholesale car lot, and upon reflection I think it might have been sitting there for awhile. anyways I have two dumb questions. im trying to change my oil. i cannot get the oil bolt off. i also cant get the filter off. Quite a few bolts under the car seem rusted, so i think its stuck. my dad said to get more leverage, which im interpreting as raise the car more. or to use two wrenches at once... im not certain that doing these things will get the bolt if it is really rusted on. i have a scissor jack that is kind of a bitch to use. it took me probably 40 min to raise the car last time. i almost want to pay someone to change the oil in hopes that itll be easier to take off next time? my question is: how can i get a rusted bolt off, would it be worth it to have someone else handle it? my second question is related: is there a service to replace bolts on cars? i kind of want to replace the rusted bolts with new ones. is this a waste of time? is there a way to de-rust a car? i think i saw some detailing services clean under the car for rust...
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Apr 20, 2018 15:02
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Godholio posted:If you have the VIN, I think you can get it from NHTSA. Some manufacturers put it online, accessible through the owner's portal. I have the VIN and searched NHTSA and it comes up empty. The car is also still listed on the dealership's website as available inventory.
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Apr 20, 2018 15:11
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Jack B Nimble posted:I think the solenoid and the starter came off as one piece, but I may not have hooked the two larger wires up to the right posts. From what I could tell there was a wire connecting the solenoid to the starter and then another that comes down from the rest of the car, the wiring harness I guess. I'll check the voltage on the battery tomorrow. Which terminal did you connect the large wire to? Also, defective replacement parts are a thing. Memento posted:Still having this issue. The high-mount brake light works fine, the brakes come on very faintly when you press the brakes. When you press the brakes with the park lights off, the park lights come on. When you press the brakes with the park lights on, the high mount brake light works fine but everything else at the back turns off. Does that Focus have combined brake and signal lights? Could be an issue with the turn signal switch or hazard switch.
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Apr 20, 2018 15:12
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Edgar Allan Pwned posted:I have a 2000 Toyota corolla. 145k miles on it. Im the second owner, i think. i bought it at a wholesale car lot, and upon reflection I think it might have been sitting there for awhile. anyways I have two dumb questions. When they say more leverage they mean extending the length of your socket arm so that its easier to turn. You can DIY by putting a metal pipe over your socket wrench to give you leverage, or you can buy whats called a "breaker bar" - https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html Spray the oil drain plug with pb blaster a few times before attempting that to loosen up the crud a little bit. For the oil filter there are a few things, metal pliers - https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-filter-pliers-61477.html Or a ratcheting strap type - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-34-in-oil-filter-swivel-handle-wrench-68963.html Or the DIY yourself version is hammering a screwdriver in the filter and using that for leverage. I've tried this before and it didnt work great though. Or you could just take it somewhere and get it changed for $20-$25. Let them know its rusty beforehand. Cage fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Apr 20, 2018 |
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Apr 20, 2018 15:16
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Edgar Allan Pwned posted:im trying to change my oil. As far as I know, the only time people normally put the effort in to replace rusted-on bolts is when they need to undo that bolt for whatever other work they're doing. If you have some plans for specific jobs in the future (e.g. you know you're going to replace major suspension components this year) and you have the spare time and motivation, you could get under there and pre-change all of the nastiest fasteners. Use it to try out your new jack + jackstands that you're gonna buy before you get under that car again. There are special paints for covering rusty body panels and other large parts and stopping the rust from spreading, but that has little or nothing to do with stuck bolts. And repeat for emphasis: DON'T GET UNDER ANYTHING SUPPORTED BY A JACK. USE JACKSTANDS. Don't make me repost that story from Elise the Great about the guy who parked his Honda on his own face.
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Apr 20, 2018 15:27
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Cage posted:Or you could just take it somewhere and get it changed for $20-$25. Let them know its rusty beforehand. I'm a big fan of getting a professional to do a tricky job for the first time; they are less likely to gently caress it up and if they do, they are better equipped/skilled to resolve the gently caress-up. Then, when you know that the bolt isn't rusted to gently caress or cross-threaded or held in with epoxy resin, you can do the job yourself the next time.
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Apr 20, 2018 15:33
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Is there any A.I. recommended OBDII sensor? I have an Android phone, and a windows laptop if that information helps.
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Apr 20, 2018 16:13
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Dennis McClaren posted:Is there any A.I. recommended OBDII sensor? I have an Android phone, and a windows laptop if that information helps. Any cheap ELM327 bluetooth reader that gets good amazon reviews.
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Apr 20, 2018 16:18
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i use two jack stands, and keep the scissor jack slightly under those. i was aware of the potential death when i got under the car.
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Apr 20, 2018 16:40
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GutBomb posted:I have the VIN and searched NHTSA and it comes up empty. If they're dodging your calls, drive there and wait. Edit: Call first and make sure he's there but "in a meeting" or whatever, then walk in and say you'll wait.
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Apr 20, 2018 16:45
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Godholio posted:If they're dodging your calls, drive there and wait. I called and the dude actually took my call and said I can pick the car up at 5. I was probably worried about nothing.
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Apr 20, 2018 17:31
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I've been looking at XJs after realizing they are most of what I am looking for in a vehicle, and the rust issue has come up a lot. Anyone know how bad this is likely to be in Southern cars? I'm seeing a lot of stock ish ones for sale here in NC that look pristine but I haven't had a chance to get under any so I was wondering what you guys had seen as like a general impression
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Apr 20, 2018 17:33
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Most cars in the southwest that experience dry, arid heat are in rust-free condition. The climate is ideal for preserving cars from rust. This is true here in Texas, and to the West of us at least.
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Apr 20, 2018 19:33
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If you're used to looking at north east craigslist then checking out a random southern state craigslist is like a gold mine.
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Apr 20, 2018 19:42
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Cage posted:If you're used to looking at north east craigslist then checking out a random southern state craigslist is like a gold mine. Yeah I'm in NC so kind of a middle ground, if I look in rural inland areas it's a bonanza compared to the cities or beach.
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Apr 20, 2018 20:02
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Ocean air has that effect.
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Apr 21, 2018 01:18
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GutBomb posted:I called and the dude actually took my call and said I can pick the car up at 5. I was probably worried about nothing. Picked up the car and I was worried for no reason. It's awesome. Doesn't have any extra miles on it and it came with a full tank of gas.
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Apr 21, 2018 03:21
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