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Great. My 2016 Wrangled Unlimited with 18K miles just had the stick shift go completely loose. I can get it in all the gears, but it's crazy. And, apparently, a common issue on the 16. It looks like it's a loving plastic bushing. Taking it in tomorrow and hope they habe the part available since that seems to be a common issue too.
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# ? Jul 20, 2017 00:08 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 16:53 |
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Yeah that's another JK thing. A couple of years ago there were stronger aftermarket replacements available, but a lot of people just bought two from the dealer and kept a spare in the glove box. Apparently it's an easy fix, even on the side of the road.
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# ? Jul 20, 2017 04:57 |
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I added another Jeep to my collection on Saturday. Custom ordered so I could have a 6 speed and the amaretto leather interior, among a few other things. Why the gently caress do I keep spending money on Jeeps
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# ? Jul 20, 2017 06:30 |
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:I added another Jeep to my collection on Saturday. Stockholm syndrome? Paint job is almost done on the Eliminator! Should be picking it up Monday, then put it all back together and, of course, apply the replacement decals!
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# ? Jul 20, 2017 17:56 |
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Wow. It's subject to a recall. And, the fix makes the throw of the stick much tighter.
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# ? Jul 21, 2017 01:15 |
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EightBit posted:I've never heard of needing to retorque new headbolts. Is this a thing? I saw various advice when I replaced my head, the usual internet YOU HAVE TO RETORQUE OR DEATH IS CERTAIN vs. I'VE DRIVEN SIX MILLION MILES AND IT RUNS GREAT. In the end, I never did retorque and figured it would be fine. Installed the new bolts around 189,100 miles. About 1yr/5k miles later, I noticed a very faint strange smell in my exhaust... I ignored it for several months until it got noticeably sweet and since everything else seemed fine and someone on here suggested it, I pulled the valve cover and retorqued all the bolts in spec sequence. Bolts at front and back were tight, but I got as much as 3/4 turn on 1 & 2, with ~1/2 on 4,5 & 3,6. The coolant smell went away immediately. This was a headbolts.com kit #chbs-1128, which as far as I could find was the only really correct matching set for a renix head/block.
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# ? Jul 21, 2017 04:11 |
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I saw various advice when I replaced my head, the usual internet YOU HAVE TO RETORQUE OR DEATH IS CERTAIN vs. I'VE DRIVEN SIX MILLION MILES AND IT RUNS GREAT. In the end, I never did retorque and figured it would be fine. This is just general purpose information (i.e. not Jeep-specific), but my understanding is that if the bolts are TTY, never touch them again. If they're not, pulling the valve cover(s) and going around the pattern with your torque wrench after you've broken the motor in is probably a good idea. Unless the threads have curing sealant on them, in which case it's back to don't.
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# ? Jul 21, 2017 08:38 |
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I've noticed a gas smell after getting out of my Jeep the last few times I've driven my 98 xj (which hasn't been that much lately). I looked over the fuel line/rail while someone cycled the fuel pump a few times and didn't see anything (except a probable valve cover leak that could be disguising a wet spot on the back of the intake manifold) and even without driving it for ~ a week it still starts right up so it seems like the fuel system is remaining pressurized and I might just have some sort of evap leak that isn't throwing a code (my cat was pretty much gone when I replaced it and it never triggered a CEL). Any thoughts? On a scale of 1-10, how safe should I feel driving it, with 10 being "sleeping in a padded room" and 1 being "imminent 14 Inch Dick style inferno"?
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# ? Jul 22, 2017 18:20 |
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Check your gas cap. Mine frequently doesn't seal despite feeling like it threaded correctly. Smell will be especially noticeable after hard rights if this is the case.
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# ? Jul 22, 2017 19:19 |
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Krakkles posted:Check your gas cap. Mine frequently doesn't seal despite feeling like it threaded correctly. Well I filled up right before driving 80 miles and didn't smell anything at my destination or when I got back so this might have been it.
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# ? Jul 23, 2017 02:06 |
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4.7L chat: does anyone know if it's possible to pop the cam access plug without pulling the valve cover? I think mine is leaking (front of the driver head) but the only reference I see to it is in the factory manual where you pull it along with a whole lot of other poo poo to pull the head. I do have a valve cover gasket kit if I do need to go that route.
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# ? Jul 23, 2017 02:31 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:4.7L chat: does anyone know if it's possible to pop the cam access plug without pulling the valve cover? I think mine is leaking (front of the driver head) but the only reference I see to it is in the factory manual where you pull it along with a whole lot of other poo poo to pull the head. If your talking about the little plug for it just to view the cam. Then you dont have to remove the valve covers. But you do have to remove the accessorie brackets. Which once your done with that it's not much more to do the valve covers. Why are you trying to access the cam? Still worried about a blown head gasket?
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# ? Jul 23, 2017 16:08 |
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I'm not, at least not anymore than any 4.7 owner. I still have no idea why it puked coolant out while driving downhill at low load. I think the plug itself is leaking oil, since I have a leak in that area and have already replaced the (leaky) oil pressure switch. PO's shop did valve cover gaskets and the leak doesn't seem to be coming from it anyway.
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# ? Jul 23, 2017 18:58 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm not, at least not anymore than any 4.7 owner. I still have no idea why it puked coolant out while driving downhill at low load. There's a good chance it is leaking. If it The seal im thinking of clean it off and reinstall it with black rtv. Let it cure then add oil and hope for the best. Even if you put a new seal in they will still leak eventually.
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# ? Jul 24, 2017 01:36 |
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I've got a new one sitting here, costs all of $5 with the plug so I figure it's worth a shot.
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# ? Jul 24, 2017 02:48 |
Any chance of some pics or walkthroughs for the rest of us 4.7 guys?
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# ? Jul 24, 2017 09:15 |
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I can probably do something of the sort if I manage to get any time for it.
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# ? Jul 25, 2017 05:03 |
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torgeaux posted:Wow. It's subject to a recall. And, the fix makes the throw of the stick much tighter. Yeah I'd get used to that poo poo. My 2013 has been in about 6... 7 times now?
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# ? Jul 26, 2017 07:38 |
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Leg day finally came for the WJ. Turns out you can barely fit four 31x10 tires standing up, the fifth needs to ride in the back seat. The last "before" pic. P245/65R17 Pathfinder Sport SATs (Kumho KL61), now mostly worn. 29.5" tall. The after pic. LT245/70R17 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W, 31" tall. No rubbing on the street so far, need to remind myself to start backing off the indicated speed.
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# ? Jul 26, 2017 22:36 |
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Minor update: For being an E load range tire (and the first proper LT tire I've ever driven on anything), I expected these to do a lot more damage to the ride quality. Honestly the only major difference so far around town is a bit less responsive on acceleration, which I'm chalking up to a combination of the new tires being both taller and nearly 20lb heavier, each.
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 18:19 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Leg day finally came for the WJ. I recommend the DigiHUD app on android as a slick way to check speed and see how far you are off at freeway speeds. Not sure if exact app is on Apple.
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 19:51 |
I like that DIGIhud lets you flip it and use it as a neat HUD at night!
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 19:57 |
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I recommend the DigiHUD app on android as a slick way to check speed and see how far you are off at freeway speeds. Not sure if exact app is on Apple. I found this handy spreadsheet calculator that does the math for you a while back. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bgPsFhj8sMfbrUu7vqTiW2i1mkFtMLIIsX5ot42slwk/edit#gid=0 According to the math, the speedo is 1.7mph off at 55mph Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jul 27, 2017 |
# ? Jul 27, 2017 21:34 |
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I put a can of Sea Foam in my tank this AM when I filled up. At the very least I will mentally believe it has more get up and go up the mountains for a while. Has anyone used it in their oil yet?
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 22:22 |
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Yeah I grabbed a gps speedo app and it looks like the actual error from the indicated speed is much smaller than I expected. The stock speedo reading must be a good deal fast. Haven't checked the odometer yet. I can't wait to get these on the dirt, but so far I'm very happy with them.
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# ? Jul 27, 2017 22:27 |
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I am looking to purchase a smallish SUV soon, and the 2017 Cherokee Trailhawk has caught my eye. It looks like the 2018s are due out soon with a refresh perhaps spec'd with an inline 4 + turbo. 2017 Cherokee Trailhawks are $5000+ off MSRP now due to the pending refresh. I probably do 95% of my driving on highway so the gas mileage (~20 mpg real world) of the 2017s is really the only thing holding me back. I would like to spend a lot more time on forest roads in Oregon in the coming years. The Rav4/CRV would seem to be a more reliable choice but it only has 6 inches of ground clearance and is equipped with a comparatively terrible AWD system. I also find Jeeps more comfortable generally.
I am totally aware that a Cherokee Trailhawk does not hold a candle to XJs in terms of offroading ability. I want the ability to off road and to enjoy a cruise on a highway on my way to work (~10 miles each way, often in traffic).
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# ? Jul 30, 2017 08:38 |
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Sooooo, my 2000 grey XJ got snatched from the commuter lot near where I live. Insurance will give me all of $1500 for it, but goddamnit i spent many hours wrenching on that fucker and now I'm really loving depressed about it. So if anyone finds a grey XJ in NoVA or the DMV that is suspiciously cheap, maybe let me know
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 02:13 |
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Swapped the radiator today its a really easy job. No more rusty nasty seepage. Then I got a fleck of rust or something stuck to my eyeball when putting the lower hose on. Two hours in the emerg room waiting for them to pull it out. The one time I don't wear my safety glasses under the jeep wear your safety glasses goons.
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 03:41 |
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ewiley posted:Sooooo, my 2000 grey XJ got snatched from the commuter lot near where I live. Insurance will give me all of $1500 for it, but goddamnit i spent many hours wrenching on that fucker and now I'm really loving depressed about it. That sucks, sorry.
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 03:59 |
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Any thoughts from the Jeep hivemind about using nutserts instead of self-tapping hardware to install the sliders I ordered for my WJ? Instructions from the manufacturer are here if you care to peruse. I've got to imagine that properly sized nutserts / bolts would grip at least as well as self tappers, if not better, and would be much better in the event I needed to remove them again.
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 04:55 |
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ewiley posted:Sooooo, my 2000 grey XJ got snatched from the commuter lot near where I live. Insurance will give me all of $1500 for it, but goddamnit i spent many hours wrenching on that fucker and now I'm really loving depressed about it. Fuckers. I hope you're going to haggle with insurance some at least? I think you could demonstrate it was worth $3k.
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 05:13 |
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1024x768 posted:I am looking to purchase a smallish SUV soon, and the 2017 Cherokee Trailhawk has caught my eye. It looks like the 2018s are due out soon with a refresh perhaps spec'd with an inline 4 + turbo. 2017 Cherokee Trailhawks are $5000+ off MSRP now due to the pending refresh. I probably do 95% of my driving on highway so the gas mileage (~20 mpg real world) of the 2017s is really the only thing holding me back. I would like to spend a lot more time on forest roads in Oregon in the coming years. The Rav4/CRV would seem to be a more reliable choice but it only has 6 inches of ground clearance and is equipped with a comparatively terrible AWD system. I also find Jeeps more comfortable generally. If you're buying new I'd look at the 2017 with better rebates and deals. You'll take less of a hit on depreciation, and the 2018's will probably be harder to deal on. I don't know much about the reliability of modern Jeeps, but in general it's still a Fiat/Chrysler and not really known for trouble-free driving. I doubt it will strand you but I would expect there to be some small recalls and other things to keep on top of while under warranty.
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 05:20 |
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angryrobots posted:Fuckers. I hope you're going to haggle with insurance some at least? I think you could demonstrate it was worth $3k. Yeah, they have this long form where they ask you about conditions and parts and stuff, so they might come back a bit higher after that. I still have to wait 30 days for them to pay out even. I loved that little shitbox...
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# ? Jul 31, 2017 13:45 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Any thoughts from the Jeep hivemind about using nutserts instead of self-tapping hardware to install the sliders I ordered for my WJ? Instructions from the manufacturer are here if you care to peruse. I've got to imagine that properly sized nutserts / bolts would grip at least as well as self tappers, if not better, and would be much better in the event I needed to remove them again. I had a stripped bolt on my YJ t-case skid pan and used the Black Magic Brakes nutsert. Making the tool to install was straightforward. The directions called for 40 ft-lbs to seat the nutsert which was lol levels of too low. If the ones you're looking at are like the one I installed, ask a buddy to help or you will end up like me with a wacky third hand rig to be able to torque it enough to get it seated and secured. Bring a cheater bar. Once installed, I bolted up to it just like I did the other ones that hadn't stripped and haven't seen any problems to date.
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# ? Aug 1, 2017 17:45 |
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Anybody got experience with fast efi systems?
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# ? Aug 1, 2017 19:39 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I had a stripped bolt on my YJ t-case skid pan and used the Black Magic Brakes nutsert. Making the tool to install was straightforward. The directions called for 40 ft-lbs to seat the nutsert which was lol levels of too low. If the ones you're looking at are like the one I installed, ask a buddy to help or you will end up like me with a wacky third hand rig to be able to torque it enough to get it seated and secured. Bring a cheater bar. Once installed, I bolted up to it just like I did the other ones that hadn't stripped and haven't seen any problems to date. I'm familiar with installing nutserts, the Mopar transfer case skid kit comes with a few nutserts and a manufactured version of the "homemade" tool. If I go with nutserts on these I'll be buying a proper tool and kit anyway because who doesn't love an excuse to buy more tools. Question is more along the lines of whether or not nutserts are a good idea here, and it seems like they'd be preferable to self-tapping screws to me.
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# ? Aug 1, 2017 19:49 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm familiar with installing nutserts, the Mopar transfer case skid kit comes with a few nutserts and a manufactured version of the "homemade" tool. If I go with nutserts on these I'll be buying a proper tool and kit anyway because who doesn't love an excuse to buy more tools. Question is more along the lines of whether or not nutserts are a good idea here, and it seems like they'd be preferable to self-tapping screws to me. Got ya. How thick is the material that you would be tapping into? I would think that a nutsert is probably more secure and longer lasting from a corrosion perspective than a couple threads catching an 8th inch of steel frame.
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# ? Aug 2, 2017 01:11 |
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Is there anybody who wants to be my online Jeep craigslist buddy? I have around 10k to spend on a toy and I really want a jeep wrangler. Is anybody bored enough to help me shop around on my areas Craigslist in your spare time? I have a bet that somebody from the Aviation or Mustang thread helps me out as we all seem to gravitate towards the same things.....
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# ? Aug 2, 2017 03:06 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Got ya. How thick is the material that you would be tapping into? I would think that a nutsert is probably more secure and longer lasting from a corrosion perspective than a couple threads catching an 8th inch of steel frame. Not sure exactly how thick, but it is the "frame rail":
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# ? Aug 2, 2017 04:11 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 16:53 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Not sure exactly how thick, but it is the "frame rail": So that's what it's suposed to look like. My wj is a rusty mess. As are most around Chicago.
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# ? Aug 2, 2017 04:12 |