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Rebuilt, stripped, and hogged-rear end out Nikki carburetor showed up. The guy who built it puts a lot of effort in to making them look nice. Nice hit when the secondaries open on his test car. Should be fun on my mildly up-ported (wouldn't call it a street port) 12A. Some more goodies arrived.  And gently caress the clutch master cylinder forever. Whoever designed that at Mazda must have had tiny hands and exceptionally strong fingers. My ribs are store from contorting myself on the driver side floor while doing the replacement. 
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Oct 14, 2018 05:13
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clutchpuck posted:Rebuilt, stripped, and hogged-rear end out Nikki carburetor showed up. The guy who built it puts a lot of effort in to making them look nice. Nice hit when the secondaries open on his test car. Should be fun on my mildly up-ported (wouldn't call it a street port) 12A. Nice dorito accessories  I don’t have any problem with the clutch mc, but I use a wobble joint and about a foot or so of extensions on a 1/4” ratchet.
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Oct 14, 2018 07:56
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Colostomy Bag posted:I hate to be "that guy" but I'd feel better if I would see jack stands under there. Most times with ramps you're blocking the notch in the frame rails for stands anyway.
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Oct 14, 2018 12:05
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Darchangel posted:Nice dorito accessories My problem was threading the top nut. And that the studs were "economically" threaded. I had to dig out some thick washers to finish the job. Update, bled the clutch release system. Pedal feels good. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Oct 15, 2018 |
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Oct 14, 2018 16:24
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PainterofCrap posted:My sister purchased an '02 4Runner with 141,000 miles and what may turn out to be significant rust issues. Wow, how'd you drive up onto all four at the same time? Cause it's a 4WD I guess.
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Oct 15, 2018 23:53
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If the grip feet are adequate you don't need power to the wheels that are going up. I've both backed my Protege (FWD) and pulled my Blazer forward (RWD) onto a set and they worked fine.
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Oct 16, 2018 00:05
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clutchpuck posted:My problem was threading the top nut. And that the studs were "economically" threaded. I had to dig out some thick washers to finish the job. I put them on with a deep socket and an extension, usually. That’s where those flanged nuts come in handy. A bit of masking tape to hold the nut in the socket as needed. veiled boner fuel posted:Wow, how'd you drive up onto all four at the same time? Cause it's a 4WD I guess.  You jack it up then put the ramps under the tires. And for what it’s worth, I consider ramps safer than jack stands, particularly in iffy surfaces.
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Oct 16, 2018 00:05
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Fender Anarchist posted:If the grip feet are adequate you don't need power to the wheels that are going up. I've both backed my Protege (FWD) and pulled my Blazer forward (RWD) onto a set and they worked fine. ... but that works too.
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Oct 16, 2018 00:06
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veiled boner fuel posted:Wow, how'd you drive up onto all four at the same time? Cause it's a 4WD I guess. Drove it up one set, then backed up the other. Silly. After extensive stress relief (mine, not the 4 Runner’s): determined that the frame is sound; the weakest members are the two rear-most body mounts, which were the only ones that deformed a bit when struck. I’ll weld gussets on them next spring.  The spare tire/rim was hilariously corroded and completely deflated...yet once aired up, holds 32-PSI. It’ll do until I can source another rim.  Did a test treatment of corroded bits above & behind the spare, using a “corrosion-inhibiting” primer topped with regular paint. We’ll see what it looks like when I tackle the rest of the underside next spring.  The 3.0 also needs new valve cover gaskets, which will be a fun project all by itself. The “easy” job - the shock - wound up taking a 3-hour grail search to six hardware stores in two counties to locate an M12, 1.25 pitch bolt.  Still have to check this control arm perch out...   (edit) Photos PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Oct 16, 2018 |
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Oct 16, 2018 02:03
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Leave it in a shady area with the keys in the ignition and hope someone takes it. Or set it on fire. Seeing that kind of rust gives nne anxiety. gently caress if trying to remove your license plate doesn't take 8 hours and all of your tools because the rust caused 3 other major repairs in the process and now you have a hole in your rear gate that you have to fix and paint. And I love 4runners ...
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Oct 16, 2018 09:18
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Verman posted:Leave it in a shady area with the keys in the ignition and hope someone takes it. Or set it on fire. Seeing that kind of rust gives nne anxiety. lol, don't move to the rust belt. That is quite normal. Disheartening, but normal. I need to do a brake job on my better half's expedition. I'll take some pictures. You'll have a stroke.
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Oct 16, 2018 12:58
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C-Bangin' it 
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"this bleeder nipple is really on there" "Now it's moving" "Oh only the nipple was moving" I'm thinking I could jam a small screwdriver bit in the shaft and try impacting it out. This is a fresh reman caliper 
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Oct 16, 2018 17:22
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Colostomy Bag posted:lol, don't move to the rust belt. That is quite normal. Disheartening, but normal. I need to do a brake job on my better half's expedition. I'll take some pictures. You'll have a stroke. Moved out of the Midwest 3 years ago. My license plate change on my 4runner ... sheared the bolt head off. Tried using an extractor, broke that too. Tried drilling it out with zero success. Ended up going through the inside of the rear gate and had to cut the threaded nut off the gate as rust fused the bolt into the nut. I jb welded a new one in there and painted it to high heaven. I think I spent 8 or more hours on it. Now I live in Seattle where people have daily drivers most Midwest have never seen before because they withered away into rust dust decades ago. I'm always amazed even I see an 80s era Toyota pickup in immaculate condition or a pristine 1988 ford tempo. Those were high school cars for my generation and I recall being able to pull pieces of people's cars off by hand. As someone who works on my own cars, I'll gladly buy a new vehicle out here just to have the experience of maintaining a vehicle where the bolts /nuts come off like they're supposed to. I don't know what that's like. My 4 runner only spent 4 years in the Midwest so my frame is solid but the smaller pieces and fasteners got pretty rusty.
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Oct 16, 2018 19:04
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Verman posted:Moved out of the Midwest 3 years ago. My fiance rolled her eyes at me so much on our trip to San Francisco that I'm surprised they didn't fall out of her head. Every time we would pass a random shitbox, I would get so excited because it was a late 70's civic, an AMC gremlin an OG FIAT, a Volkswagen fox, or some other random car that would have dissolved in the Chicago winters. People were just driving them around as regular cars
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Oct 16, 2018 20:05
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The Door Frame posted:My fiance rolled her eyes at me so much on our trip to San Francisco that I'm surprised they didn't fall out of her head. Every time we would pass a random shitbox, I would get so excited because it was a late 70's civic, an AMC gremlin an OG FIAT, a Volkswagen fox, or some other random car that would have dissolved in the Chicago winters. People were just driving them around as regular cars Sounds like Cuba. I can't imagine seeing a Ford Tempo on the road.
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Oct 16, 2018 22:00
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Colostomy Bag posted:lol, don't move to the rust belt. That is quite normal. Disheartening, but normal. I need to do a brake job on my better half's expedition. I'll take some pictures. You'll have a stroke. Yeah, I'm not moving there. That's a crime against cars. Keeps the dealers in business, I guess.
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Oct 16, 2018 22:01
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  Kind of a puzzle, owing to the nonsense instructions. A good thing to know would have been to connect the muffler up last.
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Oct 17, 2018 06:40
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Gas cap has disappeared again. I know drat well it was on the car when I parked last night, because I checked it. It was gone today.  Crappy AutoZone locking cap on there for now.
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Oct 17, 2018 07:11
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What the gently caress, why? Are they siphoning your gas too? Is there a black market for Ion gas caps that I don't know about? 
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Oct 17, 2018 12:58
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Yeah, that is some bizarro level poo poo.
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Oct 17, 2018 13:34
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  Helped my dad and his friend get the tail pan tacked in, tomorrow we tackle fitting the new trunk and fixing the passenger taillight. Car had been hit, and they didn't even beat out the dents, they just put a whole can of body filler on it. They put a tail pan on it, but didn't even cut the bad spots out. They just tacked it on top of the old stuff. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 00:23
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Figured I'd tackle 2 of the motor mounts that I have on hand. The one that I figured would be easy peasy? (strut tower to engine) Couldn't do it - my tool set has deep 17mm and 19mm sockets, but not a deep 18mm (just a regular 18mm); it couldn't get a bite once an extension or ratchet was attached. The one that I figured would be a pain in the dick? Easy, aside from needing a foot long breaker bar to break one of the bolts loose (not the through-bolt, surprisingly, especially given the rust on the threads). Even got it lined up on the second try - no jiggling or anything, just had to reposition the jack a bit, guessed on the height, and the through bolt popped right in.  That's never happened to me, there's always a lot of moving the jack around to get it just right.I was able to try loosening the engine side bolts on the mount I couldn't do - they broke free easily, so I think once I have a deep socket, it'll be easy. e: I just checked my other, much smaller, same-brand tool set. It has a deep 18mm.  I had the big 138 piece set out there instead. Downside is it's a 3/8 drive socket; my 1/2" drive ratchet is a bit longer (thus more leverage). I might see if I can find a 1/2 -> 3/8 adapter at Harbor Freight.Old one didn't look nearly as bad as I expected, given all the clunking every time I shift (or hit a bump). Sure enough, there's still a loud CLUNK if I hold the brakes, put it in gear, and let the clutch start biting. I put a tote bag on top of the engine (so I could see movement easier through the hood gap), shined a flashlight on the bag, and tried 1st, then reverse. 1st gives a little movement, but not much (it had a bit more before), reverse moves the engine significantly toward the firewall (and gives the loud clunk). So I guess the rear one was the worse one, not the front. And it looks like a pain. The rear one is also the one Amazon decided to either misprint my address on, or not pack properly; tracking shows it's getting returned, and Amazon has jacked it up by $30 since I ordered it.  Suburban Dad posted:What the gently caress, why? Are they siphoning your gas too? Is there a black market for Ion gas caps that I don't know about? I found out from a neighbor that there's an... interesting person in my building that apparently gets pissy if you park in "their" parking space. I guess I parked in their space? Except it's half open parking, 1/4 reserved carports, 1/4 garages. I do have a garage, but it's full of crap at the moment (getting remedied next week - getting a storage unit Monday, renting a pickup at some point to move most of the stuff). Gas is fine AFAIK. Not missing any that I can tell, car's been running fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 07:20
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STR posted:e: I just checked my other, much smaller, same-brand tool set. It has a deep 18mm. gently caress those lovely adapters. I feel like they are always cheap and break often. Instead I throw a big deep well impact socket on a foot long extension and throw that on the end of the ratchet for more leverage. Usually the ratchet is decent enough to take the extra torque, but I beat on my tools. STR posted:I found out from a neighbor that there's an... interesting person in my building that apparently gets pissy if you park in "their" parking space. People are loving crazy. You put on a locking cap and they'll slash your tires or something next.
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Oct 18, 2018 13:07
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Oh? Oh.  ...OH!  Anyone have a spare rear diff yoke for a Subaru propshaft?
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Oct 18, 2018 13:57
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EvilBeard posted:
Ooo, '56 Chevy. Neat!
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Oct 18, 2018 20:44
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nvm
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Oct 18, 2018 20:49
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Darchangel posted:Ooo, '56 Chevy. Neat! Yeah, my old man loves trifives. He has this 2 door 56 Bel Air, a 4 door 56 Bel Air, and a 57 210 that's basically been given to me. I hope to get started on the 57 this winter in getting it stripped down and primered. This is his 2 door, and it just has a bunch of little things that look ok from a distance, but he's set on fixing it, especially with winter coming. He's probably going to sell the 4 door once we get the body sat back on the frame, just so he can free up the garage space for the 31 Chevy.
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Oct 18, 2018 20:50
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ok
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Oct 18, 2018 20:52
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EvilBeard posted:Yeah, my old man loves trifives. He has this 2 door 56 Bel Air, a 4 door 56 Bel Air, and a 57 210 that's basically been given to me. I hope to get started on the 57 this winter in getting it stripped down and primered. This is his 2 door, and it just has a bunch of little things that look ok from a distance, but he's set on fixing it, especially with winter coming. He's probably going to sell the 4 door once we get the body sat back on the frame, just so he can free up the garage space for the 31 Chevy. It's cool, love the original plate.
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Oct 18, 2018 21:06
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EvilBeard posted:Yeah, my old man loves trifives. He has this 2 door 56 Bel Air, a 4 door 56 Bel Air, and a 57 210 that's basically been given to me. I hope to get started on the 57 this winter in getting it stripped down and primered. This is his 2 door, and it just has a bunch of little things that look ok from a distance, but he's set on fixing it, especially with winter coming. He's probably going to sell the 4 door once we get the body sat back on the frame, just so he can free up the garage space for the 31 Chevy. My dad’s has a ‘55 Bel Air coupe since I was little. It’s been sat largely unmoving for a couple decades. At least here in TX it’s not rusting. I’ve made it clear that it’s mine when he dies, but that I don’t expect it for another 20 years. It’s got a ‘57 283, bored .030, a genuine Weiand intake from a ‘67 350 hp 327 Nova, and a Muncie M20 4-speed. 4:11 gears in the original rear iirc. Used to have Ansen Sprint slotted aluminum mags, N50 tires on the back and G60s on the front. Those are dead, so it’s currently in some steel wheels to keep it off the ground.
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Oct 18, 2018 21:23
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Colostomy Bag posted:It's cool, love the original plate. What's up with the real one on the inside, though? Does he have to drive with the trunk open anytime he's on public roads? I love that vinyl decal on the rear window, though.
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Oct 19, 2018 05:33
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Suburban Dad posted:gently caress those lovely adapters. I feel like they are always cheap and break often. Instead I throw a big deep well impact socket on a foot long extension and throw that on the end of the ratchet for more leverage. Usually the ratchet is decent enough to take the extra torque, but I beat on my tools. I'd say I'd go by Sears and get a Craftsman adapter, but (a) Craftsman is kinda poo poo now and (b) they're closing the 2 remaining stores in the Austin area ASAP. I'll probably swing by Lowe's and get a Kobalt adapter, I've had really good luck with their stuff. Those adapters do tend to break easily for sure. I do want to get a set of impact sockets, but those most assuredly will be Harbor Freight for the time being. The DIY place I use provides an ugga dugga maker, but not impact sockets (just regular ones ).As for the locking cap... got a CEL today, and the car loving REEKS of gas. gently caress this Duralast crap. Ordered a GM locking cap from Rockauto, I'll return the locking Duralast one when the GM one gets here. Neighbors said all she does is jack gas caps, she hasn't gone any further with anyone. She could just rent a covered parking space or a garage, FFS (though the garages are $95/mo.. covered parking is a much more reasonable $25/mo).
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Oct 19, 2018 05:44
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Raluek posted:What's up with the real one on the inside, though? Does he have to drive with the trunk open anytime he's on public roads? In Indiana, if you have a historic vehicle, you can apply for and display an antique plate, but you have to have your actual license plate in the vehicle if you were ever to need it. We just bolted it to the inside of the trunk so you never have to try to find it.
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Oct 19, 2018 06:32
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STR posted:I do want to get a set of impact sockets, but those most assuredly will be Harbor Freight for the time being. The DIY place I use provides an ugga dugga maker, but not impact sockets (just regular ones Mine are from HF and they're great. Just get the chomoly ones (not chrome vanadium) and they'll be good. The only one I've broken is one that I used as a "press" when I didn't actually have a press... Meaning I beat the gently caress out of it with a BFH trying to get out a rusted wheel bearing because it was the right diameter. Worked well for that, but it's 'shroomed now.
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Oct 19, 2018 13:20
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STR posted:I'd say I'd go by Sears and get a Craftsman adapter, but (a) Craftsman is kinda poo poo now and (b) they're closing the 2 remaining stores in the Austin area ASAP. I'll probably swing by Lowe's and get a Kobalt adapter, I've had really good luck with their stuff. Those adapters do tend to break easily for sure. I'll have to swing by Lowes but there are reports by some they have a huge Craftsman selection. And since SBD bought them, there is a move to at least bring some of the manufacturing back to the states.
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Oct 19, 2018 13:37
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Took out the oil cooler to replace the isolator mounts. Cleaned up the cooler while I had it out. Simple green and a wire brush really do the trick. Also bought $40 worth of giant wrenches to get the oil cooler lines off the engine, which I'll be replacing with a set of SS braided lines. It would be easier to do the front one with the engine suspended and the front mount out of the way. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Oct 19, 2018 |
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Oct 19, 2018 16:56
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Suburban Dad posted:Mine are from HF and they're great. Just get the chomoly ones (not chrome vanadium) and they'll be good. The only one I've broken is one that I used as a "press" when I didn't actually have a press... Meaning I beat the gently caress out of it with a BFH trying to get out a rusted wheel bearing because it was the right diameter. Worked well for that, but it's 'shroomed now. Yeah, I bought ebay ones which are probably about HF quality and they haven't let me down (though I try to get taiwan cheapies on ebay rather than chinese cheapies so no idea what HF sells). Cheap chrome vanadium are bad like you said.
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Oct 19, 2018 17:31
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Well a disaster. I knew I was headed for hell before I started so I planned for the worst but that was not nearly enough. Front brakes on the expedition. Hell I knew it would be bad. But threw in the towel for the day after the "I can't even get the pads out of the caliper after I snapped the brake line." In my defense I had new brake lines lined up. Then of course I have to deal with removing the rusted on rotor that is welded on the hub. So after all of this, looks like new calipers on top of it all. And as I was tossing tools into the garage it starts to rain while I do it. Not a great day.
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Oct 19, 2018 19:19
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If it makes you feel better I broke the nipple off the bleeder on a fresh reman caliper for my RX7. It took effort to even find the caliper in the first place.
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Oct 19, 2018 21:10
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Colostomy Bag posted:I have to deal with removing the rusted on rotor that is welded on the hub.  lol wtfcontent: JB weld not as strong as I assumed. Pressure from coolant line re-broke. Trying again today with a reinforced bond. Broke a plastic piece while trying to bypass the heater core.
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Oct 19, 2018 21:41
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