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Imperador do Brasil posted:Anyone see a long-term problem with installing a battery tender directly to the battery in the trunk of my E90? I got the discharge light because I don't drive on long enough trips and I would like my battery to last a while longer. I don't want to install it under the hood so I hooked the pigtail to the little nut on the negative post and one of the nuts under one of the plastic flaps on the positive side. Isn't there a shipping relay/fuse that they install/remove when the car's on the boat? As far as I know, that is intended to prevent discharge during periods of nonuse. Might be an angle. But to answer your original question, the only things I would be wary of are A: Is the tender okay with being backfed power while the car is operating? and B: take care to not run accessories or anything with the car off and the tender plugged in - often they have crude rectification circuits and can throw out some very dirty power - which batteries generally don't care about.
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Sep 28, 2013 19:37
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 11:10 |
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I'll order spare clips and only take them off once then  Also you can click the picture to go to a larger one if really required.
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Sep 28, 2013 19:47
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Well of course right after I schedule to take my E46 back to the suspension shop on Monday to check out why my DSC/Brake warning lights are on, the computer seems to have sorted itself out after another day or so of driving around. In a way it's a relief since it probably means nothing serious like a failed module, but I'd still like to know what it freaked out about. Would the codes still be stored even though the lights went out, so that the shop could pull them to see what they were?
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Sep 28, 2013 19:48
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Jonny 290 posted:Isn't there a shipping relay/fuse that they install/remove when the car's on the boat? As far as I know, that is intended to prevent discharge during periods of nonuse. Might be an angle. But to answer your original question, the only things I would be wary of are A: Is the tender okay with being backfed power while the car is operating? and B: take care to not run accessories or anything with the car off and the tender plugged in - often they have crude rectification circuits and can throw out some very dirty power - which batteries generally don't care about. Well the tender isn't plugged in constantly, there's a pigtail with a quick disconnect. As far as running the car with the tender plugged in, I never run accessories while the car is in the garage so that shouldn't be a problem. I meant more specifically would there be an issue with hooking it up to the battery directly vs. using the underhood connections. I hook my DRZ battery to a pigtail connection directly from the battery so I was thinking this would be similar, but I was just making sure the E90 in particular didn't have any beef with this setup. Almost everyone on the E90 forums (for what it's worth) says to hook directly to the underhood but just because it's easier to remember to unplug from under the hood than from the trunk for some strange reason.
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Sep 29, 2013 02:21
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Car: 2000 540i, 6-speed. 170k miles. Today I washed/claybarred/waxed the car. It needed it. When I was done, I went to leave, and the car said my trunk lid was open. I go and try to close it (I hadn't opened it) and it won't latch. Every time I close it, I can just lift it up. No amount of locking/unlocking/remote opening will do anything to it. I pulled the liner off and tried disconnecting and reconnecting the module back there, to no avail. What the heck did I do?
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Sep 29, 2013 04:56
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What modzz do you guys run? I went the cheap route, got my alignment pins done and an aggressive camber up front (free) and put Turner test pipes + Evolve tune and my old Dinan intake. The car is noticeably faster and makes some awesome noises.
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Sep 29, 2013 07:24
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Das Volk posted:What modzz do you guys run? I went the cheap route, got my alignment pins done and an aggressive camber up front (free) and put Turner test pipes + Evolve tune and my old Dinan intake. The car is noticeably faster and makes some awesome noises. That is a pretty decent setup, currently what I'm shooting after too. My car came EDC equipped, but I wanted DDC (Competition EDC.) I purchased new DDC shocks/struts, new top hats. To mate to the new hardware, I picked up some RD Sport springs as well as got the Dinan camber plates and rear top hat mounts. I threw the top hats on a CNC mill and wrote up a quick program to remove 9mm of the rubber/steel sleeve. That helped to address some of the added height from the camber plates. I need to lift the car again and ensure I've got the maximum amount of negative camber on the front and likely squeeze some more out of the rear trailing arms with the eccentric bolts. Ultimately I'm enjoying the modified suspension, and have a lot waiting installation such as the RD sway bars, TMS solid/delrin rear subframe bushings, solid differential bushings, UUC evo 3/DSSR. I've got a Dinan intake, the stupid strut braces (stupid hard to install) and the crank pulley (awesome) adorning the engine bay. There is an OE exhaust that I have coming down from Seattle off a new car to have the ACM exhaust mod performed, install some OE individual tips, and get around to installing a set of Turner tests. There is also a bunch of cosmetic things done, with more coming along in the future; I'm working with CAE about an installation of one of their shifters into a DCT center console as I have a GTS carbon fiber piece, but a 6MT car. Long-term, I still need to get solid/delrin engine/trans mounts, 4.10 diff, and large bore throttle bodies. Then I'm looking to have it caged, the interior pulled, and full coil-over with spherical rear mounts (however that is a year or two out.) thealphabetsez fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 11:12
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So I've noticed that there's often a noticeable "clunk" - both sound, and feeling - when letting the clutch out in my '06 Z4M. It seems to come from both the transmission and rear end. Guessing this is slop in the driveshaft or trans / diff mounts needing replacing. Anything in particular with these cars I should look into other than that? Looking for input on intake / exhaust for the beast. I want intake snarl and a growlier exhaust without droning, and I'm not looking for +xxxHP, just to enjoy the experience of driving it that much more. So then the car's due for valve adjustment, I've noticed that my autodimming mirror doesn't, and PO installed a mismatched HID bulb on one side (fffffffuuuuuuuuuu). Lots of little, expensive, winter projects coming up. I'm so in love. 
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Sep 29, 2013 18:58
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CornHolio posted:Car: 2000 540i, 6-speed. 170k miles. Sounds like you may have dampened/soaked that big wiring harness that runs into the trunk? it's notorious for a: having a bunch of unnecessary circuits in it, and b: getting wet and/or the wires fatiguing out. I have dodged it so far, but hear it's a common issue. e39 chat: I replaced the power steering pump! I don't have a torque wrench, so I wailed on the bolts gudentight, factoring in the aluminum involved, and same on the banjo bolts (new crush washers, good clean on the lines and on the pump faces). No leaks after 3 mins of idling with periodic lock-to-lock turns. I spoke to the guy at the indie dealer and i quote "I know exactly the bolt you're talking about. Officially, it's fine from the factory, but *wink wink* Last time we had one in, it backed out again in a year and we hit it with blue Loctite the second time, havent seen it back in three years", so it sounds like Loctite *is* the order of the day for that lower power steering pump bolt. Do it today before it strands your rear end. Easy to get to. E: I just realized that the weekend before last, I did a mini roadtrip with about 50 miles in the middle being on gravel roads. I bet that was the bumpy bit that finally backed it out all the way.
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Sep 29, 2013 20:00
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Jonny 290 posted:I spoke to the guy at the indie dealer and i quote "I know exactly the bolt you're talking about. Officially, it's fine from the factory, but *wink wink* Last time we had one in, it backed out again in a year and we hit it with blue Loctite the second time, havent seen it back in three years", so it sounds like Loctite *is* the order of the day for that lower power steering pump bolt. Do it today before it strands your rear end. Easy to get to. That reminds me of one of the 'features' of the ZHP package: they put loctite on the oil pump nut to prevent it backing out. If that nut is in danger of backing out, surely they should put $.02 of loctite on the oil pump nuts of every car with an M54? 
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Sep 29, 2013 21:47
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TL;DR - As I have, thankfully, managed to avoid any major accidents in my time, I am not familiar with eyeballing damage. Please see the attached pictures and give me an idea of how boned I am over the minor frame being bent/torn where the headlight mounts. My poor M3. Finally got the transport company to agree to pay out (only $2500 of the $4500 that BMW quoted for damage, but, gently caress it, I could DIY fix what they did for that much with money left over, or at least I could have until this incident..) and then promptly had a wreck. It was my fault - map - I was stopped in the left lane at about the point where the third car is in the map and wanted to move to the middle lane, saw Dude in my mirror but misjudge and thought he was going for the right lane when he, also, wanted the middle lane. I was able to get enough bumper-bits pulled off that I was able to drive it home. Only ~$1200 to his car so I'm just going to pay out of pocket. For my side...this is why I come to you today. I haven't taken it in to be checked out yet, for at first I thought I had everything under control - replace the fender and body bits, replace the metal bumper backing and cover, throw in some Depo projection headlamps, replace the turn signal, Plastidip the whole car, good to go - but then I check again and see some damage to the frame where the headlight mounts. I know cars have come back from much MUCH worse, but I have no idea what kind of cost I'd be looking at. So many anecdotes say 'any frame damage at all = you're hosed unless you wanted a track car'. Any thoughts?    As always, thanks for your time. televiper fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 22:35
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sofullofhate posted:So I've noticed that there's often a noticeable "clunk" - both sound, and feeling - when letting the clutch out in my '06 Z4M. It seems to come from both the transmission and rear end. Guessing this is slop in the driveshaft or trans / diff mounts needing replacing. Anything in particular with these cars I should look into other than that? Also check the guibo/center bearing. The mirror is a costly replacement, sadly.
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Sep 29, 2013 23:08
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televiper posted:TL;DR - As I have, thankfully, managed to avoid any major accidents in my time, I am not familiar with eyeballing damage. Please see the attached pictures and give me an idea of how boned I am over the minor frame being bent/torn where the headlight mounts. First of all, that's not your "frame". So don't you go and worry yourself about frame damage stories. It needs work. Work you can't do yourself if you're asking. The amount can't be known without further exploration/taking parts off, but it really doesn't look all that bad to me. I'd have to internet-guess that it's completely fixable well within the realm of money worth putting into that car.
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Sep 29, 2013 23:13
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Thanks. My apologies if I was overreacting, but every accident I've been in previously has been dinged bodywork and accessories, so I had nothing to go on.
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Sep 29, 2013 23:30
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televiper posted:Thanks. My apologies if I was overreacting, but every accident I've been in previously has been dinged bodywork and accessories, so I had nothing to go on. I get it; it's no problem. Just talking you off the ledge. Get someone qualified to take a look in person and I'm sure you'll feel a lot better.
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Sep 29, 2013 23:34
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Never done any A/C work, so just to confirm: obd2 e36 M3. Something in the A/C compressor bearing went bad. As in, the hogring circlip holding the pulley assy to the comp is disintegrated to the point where I can't remove enough of it to get the pulley off. My best bet here is to just get a reman comp and have a shop do it, no? Also, I need the drive belt tensioner bracket. Stripped the first thread off of mine by having the hex head pulley washer inverted when I was reattatching. 
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Sep 30, 2013 00:50
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Yeah, the grille surround isn't part of the frame.
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Sep 30, 2013 00:51
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thealphabetsez posted:That is a pretty decent setup, currently what I'm shooting after too. There's some Ground Control setup that I saw on one being autocrossed, and it was able to change direction like a hummingbird. I want to know what black magic that is, and if it significantly destroys the ride quality. I remember with the Dinan setup it felt like my friend's Lotus with way more power, and was controllable at the absolute limit too. The stock setup still has a little too much give in the front before the nose digs in, although I appreciate the control that's there despite it. Maybe that can be fixed with bushings and a swaybar?
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Sep 30, 2013 01:10
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Cojawfee posted:Yeah, the grille surround isn't part of the frame. You are right on that point. But the part under/behind the turn signal where the headlight mounts, the part in the green circle where there is a ripped weld, is.
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Sep 30, 2013 01:14
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Pump status: Appears to be good! Bled in a few seconds, quiet and smooth over a 320 mi round trip jaunt today. I played with what appeared to be a quick little number, license plate STRMTPR 
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Sep 30, 2013 01:15
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televiper posted:You are right on that point. But the part under/behind the turn signal where the headlight mounts, the part in the green circle where there is a ripped weld, is. While that may be attached to the "frame" (unibody) it's not structural in any way and can be replaced with a piece cut off a salvage vehicle by a drunk primate with access to a welder.
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Sep 30, 2013 01:55
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A car's frame isn't going to be made from such thin metal.
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Sep 30, 2013 03:49
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Cojawfee posted:A car's frame isn't going to be made from such thin metal. And his car doesn't even have a frame.......
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Sep 30, 2013 04:00
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SuperDucky posted:Never done any A/C work, so just to confirm: Stop by the AC chat thread. If you have access to a set of gauges and a vacuum pump you might shock yourself as to how easy it is.
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Sep 30, 2013 04:04
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Kenny Rogers posted:E36 M3/4/5 best M3. Fixed that. Edit: whoops, I'm way behind that was from a page back. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Sep 30, 2013 |
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Sep 30, 2013 05:21
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1997 build, 1998 model E39 528i 5-spd. I think it's a standard M50 or M52 engine from that era. 172,000 miles, well maintained for the most part. Getting a medium volume clacking noise, probably from the valve train(?). Engine went from sounding like a whisper quiet gas I-6 to a V6 diesel sometime in the last 500 miles. Nothing too alarming, but the noise isn't going away when the engine warms up. Just clack clack clack clack. I am thinking either an oil channel got clogged, the head gasket has a pinhole leak in it, or (most likely) the exhaust manifold isn't sealed properly anymore. Could the belt tensioner be making that noise? Last gasp before it siezes up permanently? It makes an awful noise when I try and turn on the AC. The clacking noise is new, the belt tensioner/AC squeal noise has been going on for the last 1000 miles or so.
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Sep 30, 2013 05:27
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http://imgur.com/a/HgFkP $60K for a 2014 435i with M-Sport, premium and technology packages. What the gently caress. Why even get the 4 series if you want a coupe? Get a 235i for cheaper.
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Sep 30, 2013 05:48
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Das Volk posted:There's some Ground Control setup that I saw on one being autocrossed, and it was able to change direction like a hummingbird. I want to know what black magic that is, and if it significantly destroys the ride quality. I remember with the Dinan setup it felt like my friend's Lotus with way more power, and was controllable at the absolute limit too. The stock setup still has a little too much give in the front before the nose digs in, although I appreciate the control that's there despite it. Maybe that can be fixed with bushings and a swaybar? From my reading, a great upgrade is to the front thrust arm bushing, either via the Dinan or Bimmerworld units. I do hope to get around to that at some point. I've also been contemplating some GC camber plates for the front, but we'll see.
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Sep 30, 2013 07:42
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Cojawfee posted:http://imgur.com/a/HgFkP Does the 235i even come in AWD? With the 2-series expected to come out soon does that mean we will see a big drop in 1-Series prices? I want a one!
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Sep 30, 2013 10:01
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Hadlock posted:1997 build, 1998 model E39 528i 5-spd. I think it's a standard M50 or M52 engine from that era. 172,000 miles, well maintained for the most part. Get a mechanics stethoscope and start probing. There's lots of you tube videos on how to do this correctly. But my bets a bearing of some kind.
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Sep 30, 2013 14:31
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Cojawfee posted:http://imgur.com/a/HgFkP Or an M3 for a couple grand more.. drat those things are expensive. I was thinking the same thing as TAS, turning the E92 into a track car, but I also thought an M4 would make a good daily. I'm beginning to wonder if BMW is using this as license to jack up the price significantly.
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Sep 30, 2013 15:35
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Das Volk posted:Or an M3 for a couple grand more.. drat those things are expensive. I was thinking the same thing as TAS, turning the E92 into a track car, but I also thought an M4 would make a good daily. I'm beginning to wonder if BMW is using this as license to jack up the price significantly. The markup from the 335i to the 435i looks like only $2,800 MSRP on the bmwusa site. No idea what the gap between the M3 and M4 will be though. 
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Sep 30, 2013 15:53
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I butchered a new battery info my e46 key (diamond shaped) but I can't get it programmed. It still starts the car so it's only the remote locking, I've tried the method I could find on bimmmerforums (ignition to 1 5 times, hold unlock, press lock three times, release unlock, doors will lock to confirm, ignition on to set) My doors never lock to confirm, is there another method? I have 2 non-working keys sadly.
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Sep 30, 2013 16:00
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I just recently got a 2006 325i (E90), and its previous owner didn't exactly keep stellar track of everything that's been fixed and/or serviced on it. It's got about 77k miles on it now, is there anything that I should be really worried about? Reading the horror stories of the E46 cooling system has me terrified.
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Sep 30, 2013 16:39
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General Wiggles posted:I just recently got a 2006 325i (E90), and its previous owner didn't exactly keep stellar track of everything that's been fixed and/or serviced on it. It's got about 77k miles on it now, is there anything that I should be really worried about? Reading the horror stories of the E46 cooling system has me terrified. I don't know *too much about later BMWs but: Radiator, expansion tank, water pump, both hoses should be able to be gotten for under $400 total. Thermostat, its housing, and dealing with the fan is Stage 2. For dealing with the fan, either a brand new clutch and fan, or if you want to go electric, a proper puller fan setup. Both avenues have their pros and cons. e: Never mind, E90 has the wacky water pump, that'll be a few bucks. Still, radiator/hoses/tank should be similar.
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Sep 30, 2013 16:55
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I don't think the e90 has the same cooling system issues as the e36/e46. The water pump is known to be lovely though.
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Sep 30, 2013 22:08
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Jonny 290 posted:For dealing with the fan, either a brand new clutch and fan, or if you want to go electric, a proper puller fan setup. Both avenues have their pros and cons. This became less and less applicable over time from the E36 (and I think the E39). In the E46, only the M3 and any non-M with an automatic have a clutch fan in conjunction with an auxiliary electric pusher fan; all the non-M manuals have a single electric puller fan only. In the E60 and E9x, I'm fairly certain that they only have electric fans.
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Sep 30, 2013 23:31
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Crustashio posted:I don't think the e90 has the same cooling system issues as the e36/e46. The water pump is known to be lovely though. If it's an '06 325i, he's still got an M54B25 in there (same as the E46 325i), not the newer N-series engines. The E90s didn't get the new engines until 2007.
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Oct 1, 2013 09:56
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HotCanadianChick posted:If it's an '06 325i, he's still got an M54B25 in there (same as the E46 325i), not the newer N-series engines. The E90s didn't get the new engines until 2007. If it's a sedan or wagon, it's an E90 with an N52 - I had one. Coupe and convertible were still E46. The water pump should be due around 100k, some had it go at 80, some are on the original at 130k, so it's not THAT urgent, but he should think about doing it soon. Otherwise, just have the fluids flushed and changed.
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Oct 1, 2013 11:52
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After 11 years of non-driving (DUI->can-ride-a-bike-to-work), my younger brother is buying his first car. Out of the gate he's looking at an '01 E46, and asked me to take a look at it tonight. Yay, I get to peer at things and go "Hrmmmmm...."!
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Oct 1, 2013 14:52
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