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So I've got two Mk3S running now and I'm toying with building one from the ground up so I can play with stuff line the Hemera, etc. But the kits so I've got a good grounding in the basics. Where's the best place to learn about starting from the ground up instead of a kit?
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Jan 6, 2020 22:54
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Sorry, actually, let's talk about UV curing again for one second. There's a huge disconnect between what I'm reading online and what the datasheets above say in terms of cure time. Ignore the temperature part, which I won't be worrying about right now. If I read the graphs right we're getting great curing results at like, two hours. When I google for UV curing times I get reddit post after reddit post (substitute forum post after forum post, I get results from everywhere) that read like.. "Yeah I throw my thing in for five minutes and it's good". There's definitely some sort of disconnect here. Even if the Form graphs are specific to their resins, is there really that much of a difference between curing times? Or are these likely just people who throw in and don't really test for "optimal" results, just going by how tacky or not tacky the print is? Obviously I can't expect anyone to answer this scientifically. I can't find any data sheets for my Anycubic resins so I'm just going to throw my parts in for an hour and change and hope for the best.
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Jan 6, 2020 23:41
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Martytoof posted:Sorry, actually, let's talk about UV curing again for one second. There's a huge disconnect between what I'm reading online and what the datasheets above say in terms of cure time. Ignore the temperature part, which I won't be worrying about right now. If I read the graphs right we're getting great curing results at like, two hours. When I google for UV curing times I get reddit post after reddit post (substitute forum post after forum post, I get results from everywhere) that read like.. "Yeah I throw my thing in for five minutes and it's good". A lot of it has to do with your lights. Fluorescent, LED, and Mercury all cure at different rates. LED being the worst due to the narrow spectrum. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UV_curing I have only used form labs for resin prints and curing, but I do a bunch of *Alumilite UV resin work and use a single UV led for small quick cures (30 seconds on extremely small amounts of resin) and a Fluorescent setup with 6 tubes for larger cures and it generally takes about 1.5 - 2 hours to fully cure. *Edit: Alumilite UV resin casting/coating not printing. JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 00:02
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Ah I see, thanks! I bought a long strip of 405nm LEDs and just have them circled around in a reflective box right now. I think I'll just let this go for two hours and see what happens.
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Jan 7, 2020 00:11
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TKIY posted:So I've got two Mk3S running now and I'm toying with building one from the ground up so I can play with stuff line the Hemera, etc. But the kits so I've got a good grounding in the basics. Tom on YT has a video of building the peusa... mk2? I think? From the ground up.
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Jan 7, 2020 02:07
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Honestly I've left prints in my DIY oven for like, 4 days and there hasn't been any fallout from that.
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Jan 7, 2020 02:23
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One thing to remember is that the photochemical reaction we call "curing" continues for basically the entire lifetime of the part, to one degree or another. To illustrate the point, technically we essentially refer to the final stage of part curing as "UV degradation" because it's generally unwanted and uncontrolled and does not benefit the part. Another point (already mentioned) is that the degree of curing you actually need varies hugely depending on your end application. The surface layer of a print being cured reacts quickly because of the high UV exposure, and for thin sections the entire part can act as a "surface layer" if illuminated evenly on all sides, but most parts will have a fast-curing "shell" over a "core" that responds much slower to post-print UV treatments on account of being buried. A thick resin section's deepest sections will, so far as I know, often still be slowly changing weeks or months after a quick post-treatment is "complete". If you are making actual functional components or anything that must meet specific mechanical/physical specifications, having a homogenous and consistently-cured part is absolutely critical- but you're not doing that. If you're making a delicate tabletop model, you definitely want the best cure possible so it survives tumbles off the table n rough handling, but ultimately you can always repair it or print another. And if you're just making a paperweight or art piece a tightly-controlled post-treatment is basically irrelevant and your time is better spent elsewhere. Those curing experiments are daunting as hell but they're really not all that important for where you're at, that was more to highlight how post-print UV treatment is surprisingly complicated and has significant bearing on the quality of the parts you're printing- basically, you shouldn't treat is as an afterthought. Which you're not, so hey. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 03:10
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I had a weird interaction with curing resins. Basically I printed a funnel to get spare resin back in the bottle. I'd leave it in my cleaning container, which contains the tubs of alcohol used to clean prints. The tubs seal but not 100% so the thing faintly smells of alcohol whenever I open the whole container up. I'd leave the funnel in there since its where I do all the resin transfers too. I'd gone a couple of weeks after printing the funnel, but checking back on it, the alcohol fumes and incomplete curing resulted in the entire funnel cracking along the surface into chunks attached to a slightly tacky interior. I'm not sure if curing longer would have helped. I did have the plastic spatula I got with my printer also in the tub, the fumes caused it to warp into a bendy non-spatula.
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Jan 7, 2020 03:31
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Well crap.... My local Microcenter had just changed the layout of the store a bit and greatly expanded the 3d printer filament isle (putting it right at the front of the store even). In doing so they started stocking a lot more types and colors of filament. A lot of their newer filament is in green boxes with trees on the side. I bought 3 rolls... Only to get home and find out they where spooless. You are meant to buy a empty reusable spool to put them on. Guess I should have read the front of the box. And of course they are not the "Master Spool" standard. The filament is actually eSun brand and it uses their standard spools, which are smaller.
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Jan 7, 2020 03:38
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can you print a spool
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Jan 7, 2020 03:43
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CommonShore posted:Also can you tell me about some interesting non-novelty uses of a 3d printer beyond creating little toys and bits? edit: Exhibit A Synthbuttrange posted:can you print a spool
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Jan 7, 2020 03:44
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Synthbuttrange posted:can you print a spool Yeah looks like I am going to go with this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2823667 You can swap the sides out with different sized inner hubs.
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Jan 7, 2020 03:47
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Bad Munki posted:The main use of a 3D printer is to make parts and upgrades for your 3D printer. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lying to you and/or themselves. Actually my friend with the TEVO said more or less that. Now how about ventillation? Is this serious rear end business? Or if I get one of these little starter ones am I just ok using it in a room with a major furnace intake? Or if I do that am I just gassing my whole house?
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Jan 7, 2020 05:03
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Finally started assembling track for the Kat 2X. Here are the 50something links, 100 bolts, and 200 drilled holes that make up one side:
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Jan 7, 2020 05:16
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jubjub64 posted:I forgot to mention that I also did a Z-axis aligment command before printing. Between the Z alignment and the BLTouch bedlevling it should take care of all my issues I would think. It is weird, the first layer went down very well all over the printbed but it seems as the print went on there was some sort of squashing going on. I'm not sure how to test for that. I sent a support ticked to Tinymachines3D since I bought it from them. Maybe they will have some advice. Let me know if anybody thinks of something. Thanks. What kind of tolerances are you expecting?
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Jan 7, 2020 07:30
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This shows my dancing hot bed issues pretty good, I reckon: PETG on a hot bed on the right, PLA on a cold bed on the left.
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Jan 7, 2020 09:15
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AgentCow007 posted:What kind of tolerances are you expecting? If you check my post from the last page the 20mm cube gets squashed down to 18.7mm on the z-axis. I'm not looking for perfection but I'd want to stay within 90-95% accuracy over the whole bed. jubjub64 fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 13:02
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Double post
jubjub64 fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 13:04
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stevewm posted:Well crap.... Nice I like eSun and have some of their spools already.
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Jan 7, 2020 14:41
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ImplicitAssembler posted:This shows my dancing hot bed issues pretty good, I reckon: I have nothing helpful to say other than you could make some neat lighting effects with those  The spools I bought from 3DQF in the UK are pressed steel and card, fully recyclable. I thought that was a neat touch.
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Jan 7, 2020 14:46
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Anyone know any stores (preferably brick and mortar but online would work) that carry xtc-3D? Excluding Amazon and the Smooth-On shop.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:02
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EVGA Longoria posted:Anyone know any stores (preferably brick and mortar but online would work) that carry xtc-3D? Excluding Amazon and the Smooth-On shop. There’s a dealer locator on the SmoothOn site. I see 3 in my medium city.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:51
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eddiewalker posted:There’s a dealer locator on the SmoothOn site. I see 3 in my medium city. Ah, I misunderstood the "Distributor" part of that. Looks like there's 1 in my city, pretty far away. Thanks.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:35
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CommonShore posted:Actually my friend with the TEVO said more or less that. No one knows for sure the long term effects, but the safe bet is an enclosure with ventilation to the exterior of your house.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:59
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Thermopyle posted:No one knows for sure the long term effects, but the safe bet is an enclosure with ventilation to the exterior of your house. It's a safe bet that it's at least as cancer-causing as anything you buy at the grocery store or clean your home with.
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Jan 8, 2020 02:44
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I finally finished the upgrade of my monoprice maker select v2. -replaced the melzi with the skr v1.3 -tmc2208 drivers Utterly amazing how quiet it is with the steppers over the stock. Print quality is VERY good, currently better than my sidewinder x1. That said the y carriage is stupidly loud, even with repacked bearings. I think I’m going to design a new mount for the y carriage to move away from the LM8UU bearings.
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Jan 8, 2020 02:54
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I finally finished the upgrade of my monoprice maker select v2. I'm looking to do this too, was there a guide you followed you could link me to?
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Jan 8, 2020 03:50
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biracial bear for uncut posted:It's a safe bet that it's at least as cancer-causing as anything you buy at the grocery store or clean your home with. That's not what the best available evidence shows as has been discussed in here multiple times. (to be clear, the best available evidence isn't great quality yet, but given the minimal costs involved and the potential benefits the cost/benefit means the safe bet is exterior ventilating) Thermopyle fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jan 8, 2020 |
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Jan 8, 2020 04:08
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Thermopyle posted:That's not what the best available evidence shows as has been discussed in here multiple times. Can you provide a link to me about this best available evidence? I'm only just looking at getting into all of this stuff.
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Jan 8, 2020 04:28
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Pro-tip: Spend a few bucks more and get 2209s instead of 2208s. They generate way less heat.
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Jan 8, 2020 07:54
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jubjub64 posted:I'm looking to do this too, was there a guide you followed you could link me to? I used the site below as a loose guide, I’ll share my configuration files in a couple hours too as I used the latest bug fix of marlin. I’d suggest not using the PID values, just run a PID tuning after. https://www.itsalllost.com/wanhao-i3-32bit-upgrade/
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Jan 8, 2020 12:00
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CommonShore posted:Can you provide a link to me about this best available evidence? I'm only just looking at getting into all of this stuff. google 3d printer along with the terms UFP, VOC, particulates The problem with the best available evidence is it's just measurements of how much stuff a particular 3d printer with a particular filament are spitting into the air in a particular environment. They haven't yet done health outcome studies of exposure for X period of time for the particular combinations of stuff being spit out by whichever printer and other variables. Of course, there's health studies on ultra-fine particles, VOC's and other stuff but nothing about what exactly is coming out of a printer. On top of all of those shortcomings, most exposure to those things are measured in fairly short timespans whereas a 3d printer is spitting that stuff out for hours or days at a time. 3d printers are fuckin' slow!
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Jan 8, 2020 16:01
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CommonShore posted:Can you provide a link to me about this best available evidence? I'm only just looking at getting into all of this stuff. I did an effort post a couple of weeks ago on what available info there is. Dig back a ways in the thread and you'll find it. In a nutshell not much info.
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Jan 9, 2020 00:19
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Anyone had any luck getting the BLTouch 3.1 to work with the Ender 3 Pro and Marlin 2? When I Z home it doesn’t recognize it’s hit the bed and just keeps trying to go down forever. The self test and commands work fine, and if I swap the Z probe wires it goes up forever instead of down. Tried the Bugfix fork and TH3D firmware as well, but no joy.
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Jan 9, 2020 02:22
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Well, the money spent and effort in building the BLV Cube CoreXY is paying off:  Super happy with the print quality of these. PLA 0.2mm layer height at 60mm/s. Looking forward to getting the new heated bed and getting some more advanced filaments going. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 06:48
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Dang, that turned out great!
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Jan 9, 2020 07:07
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EVGA Longoria posted:Anyone had any luck getting the BLTouch 3.1 to work with the Ender 3 Pro and Marlin 2? When I Z home it doesn’t recognize it’s hit the bed and just keeps trying to go down forever. The self test and commands work fine, and if I swap the Z probe wires it goes up forever instead of down. See Configuration_adv.h section starting with #if ENABLED(BLTOUCH) for the extra BLTouch version settings. Yes they work.
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Jan 9, 2020 07:59
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I haven't had a well functioning printer in nearly a year now Today I built this  Just the skeleton for a small bed cantilever printer I'll be very happy in a week or so when its churning out the odd benchy
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Jan 9, 2020 10:33
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Combat Pretzel posted:Pro-tip: Spend a few bucks more and get 2209s instead of 2208s. They generate way less heat. Stepper drivers, not bearings, ignore me
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Jan 9, 2020 11:14
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Hypnolobster posted:If you're into other new things, the Creality branded glass bed with the built in who knows what it is surface on it is incredibly good.
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Jan 9, 2020 13:20
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