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D5500 is on back order as well, even from Nikon... I also didn't realize the D5200-5500 was like iPhone models. I just assumed it was like automobile packages, more money more features, but you can pick from the stock, mid-range, or deluxe class.
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Apr 5, 2016 23:51
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The D3XX, D5XX and D7XX are the basic, midrange and deluxe class Nikon consumer bodies. They release new iterations of each every couple of years.
BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 16:07
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Why are you buying one new? There are a few available on KEH.
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Apr 6, 2016 20:43
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My wife is being stubborn and wants a new one. Literally the only reason. I showed her the one someone posted here and a couple others, but she is strongly against buying a refurbished camera.
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Apr 6, 2016 21:26
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 I guess your marriage is worth spending a couple hundred extra bucks.
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Apr 7, 2016 00:05
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Bubbacub posted:
I'd just buy the refurb and treat myself to a lap dance. Wife ain't gonna know.
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Apr 7, 2016 00:24
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There's a big difference between returb and a manufacturer refurb. If it's the latter, it's just free money off essentially. Maybe your wife read that one dorkroom post that said a bunch of pentax's going around were used in golden shower scenes. That was a beautiful troll.
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Apr 7, 2016 00:27
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You can also buy grey-market imports. Brand new cameras just discounted for the Asian market.
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Apr 7, 2016 01:03
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Unforgiven posted:She is strongly against buying a refurbished camera. I haven't bought a refurbished camera, but I've bought quite a few refurbished lenses from Canon and every single one was completely indistinguishable from a new lens except for the word 'refurbished' on the box, a sticker on the lens cap, and the lower price. Not a single scratch or piece of dust on them.
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Apr 7, 2016 01:09
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My canon refurb t2i has been fine. Even has had hard hits to the ground and still runs like champ.
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Apr 7, 2016 01:37
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EL BROMANCE posted:There's a big difference between returb and a manufacturer refurb. If it's the latter, it's just free money off essentially. Camera stores in the UK have taken to scare-mongering about grey market cameras, and this also usually involves some clucking about 'mumble mumble lots of refurbs ... no warranty .. can't really say it's a good idea'. I've heard it in three different ones of the same highstreet chain, so it's probably a script. If it's widespread that's potentially where the fear comes from.
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Apr 7, 2016 01:44
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Shady shops are going to try and scare you into buying from them, but factory refurbished cameras carry the same warranty that new ones do, and when you consider that a refurbed T6i is only $600 vs $750 new, you're basically buying a new camera straight from the manufacturer at a really good discount.
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Apr 7, 2016 04:14
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They aren't entirely wrong; Nikon's factory refurbs only have 90 days warranty, and also Nikon won't repair your grey-market cameras even if you try to give them money.
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Apr 7, 2016 05:54
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What aftermarket batteries do you goons use? I'm only getting about 100-150 shots on a fully charged battery that came with my D5500. I have two of them, but I don't think they are going to cut it for my trip to Europe next week. The two that came with my camera are Model EN-EL14a 7.2V 1230mAh 8.9Wh. I looked at some on Amazon since they have two day shipping, but the reviews are mixed. Some reviews say they work, some say they don't. Others say the batteries are trash and not worth the money.
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May 17, 2016 18:02
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Just legit ones.
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May 17, 2016 18:13
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Unforgiven posted:What aftermarket batteries do you goons use? I'm only getting about 100-150 shots on a fully charged battery that came with my D5500. I have two of them, but I don't think they are going to cut it for my trip to Europe next week. The two that came with my camera are Model EN-EL14a 7.2V 1230mAh 8.9Wh. I looked at some on Amazon since they have two day shipping, but the reviews are mixed. Some reviews say they work, some say they don't. Others say the batteries are trash and not worth the money. You should get more than 100-150 shots on a full charge. But anyway, I'd just get original ones. Third party can be hit'n'miss and sometimes the camera just starts rejecting them after a firmware update.
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May 17, 2016 18:31
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I'm getting close to 1k shots per charge using original batteries with my D5300 and a big lens (so extra draw for VR + focusing).
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May 17, 2016 19:13
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My girlfriend wants to get into taking photos on something more advanced than her phone and was looking at kits and made an impulse purchase off Amazon. After some second thoughts she learned it was too late to cancel but we could send it back. Right now she is interested in taking pictures of birds/animals at the park and our dog. Should we just hang on to the bundle or look at getting something else? I don't really know anything about cameras but after looking around thought a refurb Canon or a Pentax would be a good option. The Amazon bundle. http://www.amazon.com/Canon-T5i-Creator-18-55mm-VIDEOMIC/dp/B013LBF3V0?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_sw_su_dp Canon Refurb Option http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-rebel-t6i-ef-s-18-55mm-is-stm-lens-kit-with-ef-s-55-250mm-f-4-56-is-stm-lens-refurbished Pentax Option http://www.adorama.com/IPXK50R55200.html Edit: She used Canon at one of her old jobs so I think that is why she chose that brand. I am suggesting the Pentax because of the weather resistance as we live in a humid area. RescueFreak fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jun 9, 2016 |
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Jun 9, 2016 14:03
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Absent any other considerations, I'd say go for the Pentax option. Not necessarily because of the weather-sealing - it's a really nice feature, but not actually necessary 95% of the time, even in a "humid area" - but because I've been shooting Pentax for a few years and I like them. However, this isn't absent other considerations - you say your GF went with Canon because of prior experience. That's a good reason. You've also got the T5i in-hand (or will very soon) and the other choices are further away in time. Accepting a package, sending it back, buying something else, and waiting for that something else to arrive is probably going to erode the enthusiasm for this new purchase - I'd say the likely difference in "quality"* between those 3 options isn't going to make a difference to your experience as a photographer ('s friend). * Nobody makes a bad camera these days. A day spent with that T5i in the park is going to be a good day. A day spent with that K-50 in the park is going to be a good day. A day spent in the park with your dog and a potato-based cameraphone is going to be a pretty good day, too, it just won't look as nice on facebook. On the other hand - if you think the send-back and wait option is fine (you might be more patient than me), then I'd say go for the Canon. Both of those other options (the non-Amazon choices) come with 2 lenses instead of 1 + a pile of stuff of dubious-at-best utility. The Pentax package is $80 cheaper and I don't know if the T6i + lenses is $80 better than the K-50 + lenses. Maybe it is. But the reason I'm saying "Canon" is because of the ability of the T6i to take an external microphone. The K-50 is a fine camera, but it lacks the ability to plug in an external microphone. No camera has a good built-in mic, if you get even a little bit into video you're going to want to buy a microphone. The only things that matter are the camera body and the lens. Any new or factory-refurbished camera is going to come with a battery and a battery charger, there's no point in talking about that. Get whatever SD card you can find for a good price (people will have advice for brands to avoid, I've never had a problem myself), likewise a bag or case if you feel the need - most of the time my DSLR just drops into my backpack or is in my hand, with the lenses in pockets or in the backpack. The RODE microphone is probably a fun thing if you're going to get half-serious about video, but you can pick one up later. The rest of that Amazon bundle is not worth as much as the second lens you get from one of the other options; most of it, frankly, is crap you'll never use. tl;dr: Unless you / your GF are hyper-excited about the incoming Amazon package, send it back and buy the Canon T6i refurbed package from Canon directly.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:57
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I liked the Pentax because it is red and therefore faster and will take better pictures. She is excited and looking forward to learning a new hobby, I would refer her to the thread but she isn't a goon. I'll talk to her again and see what she doesn't like about the package she ordered and if it is worth the hassle to return it. Thanks for the help. RescueFreak fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jun 9, 2016 |
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Jun 9, 2016 18:18
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Just chiming in to say that the 55-250mm and 18-55mm kit lenses and a Rebel body make a great bundle for starting out with nature/animal/wildlife photography. The 55-250 especially is a great lens. I started out with essentially the same setup, except with older versions of everything, and I still think it produced some of my best/favorite wildlife photos. The only things that I really appreciated when I upgraded to a more expensive camera was better high ISO performance (which the t6i already has, pretty much) and a secondary LCD screen on the shoulder (which the t6s has). The secondary LCD seems like a minor thing, but for long hikes and stealthy wildlife shooting I found that it was very convenient not having to turn on or look at the rear screen to check my settings.
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Jun 12, 2016 21:23
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jackpot posted:Did the standard 17-50/2.8 (not VR) get significantly improved over the past few years? I paid $400 for mine on amazon back in 2008, now it's selling for $500 and the only difference seems to be the addition of a few more nonsensical acronyms in the name. XR Di-II LD SP versus Di-II LD. Interesting quandry, OP, I think the goons can probably weigh in and help, but I don't know myself.
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Jun 13, 2016 00:37
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Girlfriend decided to go with the Canon T6i. Should be delivered this week, we have plans to go to the park this weekend. I got her Understanding Exposure to go along with it. Anything else someone new to the hobby might need?
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Jun 15, 2016 20:01
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A subscription to lightroom and a stern warning to never, ever touch the clarity or tone mapping controls. At least not until they've been properly trained in their use. Or heck,  to get a SA account and post her stuff in here for critique.
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Jun 15, 2016 20:13
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RescueFreak posted:Girlfriend decided to go with the Canon T6i. Should be delivered this week, we have plans to go to the park this weekend. I got her Understanding Exposure to go along with it. Besides a ton of money for lenses, speedlites and tripods?  I'd also get her a book on composition. Exposure should be more or less a solved problem for her usecases but composition is entirely up to her. Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Photographer...grapher%27s+eye
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Jun 15, 2016 20:23
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xzzy posted:A subscription to lightroom and a stern warning to never, ever touch the clarity or tone mapping controls. At least not until they've been properly trained in their use. The only way to learn how to use those is to be stupid for awhile. Besides, plenty of wedding photographers have no idea how they work and bill thousands of dollars for oversaturated auto ISO low light cave drawings recovered by abusing the noise sliders into oil painting mode. No sin is too great in comparison.
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Jun 15, 2016 21:19
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windex posted:The only way to learn how to use those is to be stupid for awhile. Besides, plenty of wedding photographers have no idea how they work and bill thousands of dollars for oversaturated auto ISO low light cave drawings recovered by abusing the noise sliders into oil painting mode. You make it sound as if auto ISO is a bad thing.
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Jun 16, 2016 06:56
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Caryna posted:You make it sound as if auto ISO is a bad thing. It isn't, in the right context, but in most, it is. I may be slightly biased because none of my digital cameras (5D3, Oly PEN-F) support auto ISO in a way that allows a predefined maximum shutter speed to be maintained without resorting to manual mode. Some do. The 5D3 at least has the option, it just doesn't enforce it and instead shows an asterisk in the viewfinder to warn you it's going to ignore what you told it to do.
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Jun 16, 2016 08:20
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RescueFreak posted:Girlfriend decided to go with the Canon T6i. Should be delivered this week, we have plans to go to the park this weekend. I got her Understanding Exposure to go along with it. Time. She just needs to spend time hands-on with the camera, pointing it a things, mashing it against her face, pushing buttons. xzzy posted:Or heck,
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Jun 16, 2016 14:34
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windex posted:It isn't, in the right context, but in most, it is. I may be slightly biased because none of my digital cameras (5D3, Oly PEN-F) support auto ISO in a way that allows a predefined maximum shutter speed to be maintained without resorting to manual mode. Some do. The 5D3 at least has the option, it just doesn't enforce it and instead shows an asterisk in the viewfinder to warn you it's going to ignore what you told it to do. Now I'm slightly confused because that's more or less exactly how I use it. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? When indoors in situations where I can't have a flash/strobe I set my Nikon D750 to manual, pick my shutter speed and aperture and turn on auto ISO (limit it to 4000 max). Works like a charm. But I guess that's what you meant with resorting to manual mode? But if all you want/need to control is aperture and shutter speed then manual mode with auto ISO on new cameras is great.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:15
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Caryna posted:Now I'm slightly confused because that's more or less exactly how I use it. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? When indoors in situations where I can't have a flash/strobe I set my Nikon D750 to manual, pick my shutter speed and aperture and turn on auto ISO (limit it to 4000 max). Works like a charm. But I guess that's what you meant with resorting to manual mode? But if all you want/need to control is aperture and shutter speed then manual mode with auto ISO on new cameras is great. Some cameras can do a trick in Aperture Priority, where you set a minimum shutter speed with auto ISO. This lets you use as low of an ISO as your aperture and minimum shutter allow, which creeps more readily into faster shutter speeds with lower ISO in mixed light since theres no ceiling on shutter speed. Super useful when doing, say, outdoor event shooting in mixed sun/shade, both into and away fron the sun, with one setting. Doing it in manual mode will not let your shutter speed raise with available light. You have to watch your meter to insure you aren't overexposed.
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Jun 16, 2016 19:26
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I recently bought a used Canon 20D and a lens from a local camera shop chain. Including some accesories I ordered from Amazon, I've spent like $160 (USD) total. The last time I tried any actual photography was like 15 years ago, so I figure that spending tons of money is not going to make up for my lack of skills and technique. The shop I went to from seems pretty good, as they have a grading system, and their used equipment policy is 30-day returns and 90-day warranty. However, the day I went in, I basically checked their site to see which location had the best 20D in stock, then got in the car. It was only once I got there that I realized I didn't know anything about lenses. I ended up with the USM variant of this Canon 80-200mm thing for $55, which has f/4.5-5.6 maximum(s). I did my first real photography outing yesterday at the zoo, and I'm not sure if this is really the lens I should have, or if I should buy a second, or what. My main interest right now is taking photos when I'm out walking and hiking, so outdoor things like landscapes, animals/wildlife, and buildings. I know one of the refrains in this thread is "buy a 50mm with a low f-number", but on the other hand the bird photography thread recommends having something 300mm or higher, and my zoo day kind of confirmed the latter suggestion. I'm leaning toward returning this lens and buying something else, but I'm not sure which way to go, whether it's picking something along the lines of these two suggestions, or some other suggestion entirely. Looking at available zoom lenses as I type this, there are a bunch of like 70-210mm and 75-300mm and similar ranges that have better F values than my current lens, some of which are like $5 more than I paid for mine. I think my max budget for lens(es) at the moment is around $100, but that could involve keeping this lens or returning it. If anyone can help me understand my choices better, I would be very grateful. Lutha Mahtin fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jun 26, 2016 |
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Jun 26, 2016 22:49
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That 80-200 should be fine for zoo and bird stuff. You might need to push the ISO up a bit to get fast enough shutter speeds in less ideal lighting conditions but it's fine for that. IT's not really a walk-about taking pictures of the park kind of lens because it's a tele lens. On your 20D, it's actually a 128-320mm lens because your camera has a smaller sensor so the image is cropped by about 1.6x. A 35mm lens on your camera will give you about the same field of view as human eyes (~50mm) which is why 50mm is a common focal length for everyday photography. For landscapes you definitely want a wider lens (less than 50mm) but this is a very well served segment of the market. You should be able to find very cheap 18-55mm lenses (they are commonly bundled with new cameras) and, with the longer lens you already have will give you a very good range of photography options. Unless you plan on doing a lot of fast, lowlight shooting, then you aren't going to see a huge benefit from more expensive glass at the moment. Your camera can make up for a lot of the difference by boosting ISO. You should be able to run up to 1600 or so on that body without significant noise being added and maybe 6400 if you are fairly creative in post-processing.
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Jun 26, 2016 23:08
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Now that I read your post, I remember that this was pretty much what the salesman advised me to do. He might have suggested like a 35-70mm instead of an 18-55, but his general advice was (like you say) to look for something to complement the lens I already have. And your "walking-around" comment maybe wasn't meant this way, but it made me consider lens weight, and all those Canon 70-210 and 80-300 models are way heftier than this 80-200. Like, some of them are more than twice as heavy  I think I finally understand the implications of crop factor now, too. I didn't grasp that lens length is effectively multiplied by it. I guess that means I have already taken dozens of bird photos at 320mm. I am curious though: my viewfinder accounts for the crop factor, right? I am pretty sure it would (because what's the point of a reflex camera, precious) but I want to make sure. Lutha Mahtin fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jun 27, 2016 |
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Jun 27, 2016 01:08
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"Crop factor" doesn't make your lens any longer, or change the way your viewfinder works. Your shots at 200mm are at 200mm.
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Jun 27, 2016 01:13
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ansel autisms posted:"Crop factor" doesn't make your lens any longer, or change the way your viewfinder works. Your shots at 200mm are at 200mm. Well, sort of. The crop factor does change what he sees in the viewfinder, in that he has a different field of view than a full frame camera would have. Looking thru a FF and a crop viewfinder, assuming they were both 100% view, will present very different images. Just as looking thru a 200mm lens on a medium format camera would present yet another view.
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Jun 27, 2016 01:58
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And yet the confusion only begins when you compare your lens to another camera. A 200mm is a 200mm.
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Jun 27, 2016 02:02
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ansel autisms posted:And yet the confusion only begins when you compare your lens to another camera. A 200mm is a 200mm. Yes, and Canon is guilty of marketing a crop lens as "equivalent to X" accounting for crop factor, which adds to the problem. But, your answer, accurate to a tee, is misleading because of its brevity. My answer can cause confusion, for similar reasons. Field of view changes depending on the size of the sensor/film. Nothing else changes, but that sole change causes a huge amount of consternation that really neither you nor I are helping because we actually know the difference but are talking past the guy who is asking.
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Jun 27, 2016 02:41
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Lutha Mahtin posted:... has f/4.5-5.6 maximum(s) ... At f/4.5-5.6, so long as you are taking photos of mostly still subjects during daylight hours, you should be fine. My random street photos are almost always shot at f5.6-f8, and I don't really need to leave ISO 1600 until after dark to shoot with shutters < 1/250 in the right light. If you are trying to catch action, you will have problems in less than ideal light (e.g. dark clouds to darkness, but not white clouds which are actually good for lighting). I tend to prefer perfect daylight 'action' exposures to fall within 1/500 (people) and 1/2000 (vehicles) or faster if possible. High ISO images look degraded but once you pass the hangup over perfection (shoot some high speed film from high DPI scans and LOOK AT THE GRAIN vs your digital camera, then you'll realize how good you have it even on a 20D).. you'll figure out how to handle presentation in post and fast lenses become way less important. With that said, almost everybody shoots portraits now and then, and for portraits, consider picking up a Nifty Fifty. Any of them, even the older one used. Just be aware that from f/4.5-5.6, f/1.8 @ 50mm has preciously less depth of field than you are used to, but it can quickly teach you the ins-and-outs of fast lenses vs their slower counterparts. Most people like fast lenses for bokeh, when you should like fast lenses because they are almost always nearly perfect stopped down. As far as the crop factor debate, just go study up on Field of View. Sensor size also affects Depth of Field in that the DOF is relevant to the actual lens focal length not the FOV (so a 35mm on a Canon crop sensor has more DOF than a theoretical 56mm would on a full frame body at the same distance with the same FOV). Crop factors are just relative numbers from 35mm film/full frame dimensions for judging the depth of field and field of view of a given lens vs a 35mm film/full frame sensor size.
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Jun 27, 2016 09:59
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Oh... I spent all day Saturday at ISO 200. I still have some vestigial knowledge from when I was a kid, and my mom taught me how to use her film SLR. I think I only ever had 100, 200, and 400 film, so seeing big numbers like 1600 on the 20D just seemed absurd. This might help lower the percentage of my shots that look like they were taken by Ozzy Osbourne
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Jun 27, 2016 17:40
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